sleezy

Thanks guys! Looks like it's super easy to get to, right behind the driver knee pad. I'm thinking I probably do not have the high line CTM, because my truck has none of the options listed by Mike above. If I have the base CTM I'll call it a day and give up on steering wheel controls. If I have the high line I guess I'll start visiting Pick n Pulls for a wheel and the 2nd harness section.

Thank you, @IBMobile Is there a way to tell when CTM I have without ripping the dash apart?

Thanks, Mike! This is from Crutchfield, and I trust those guys, so I'm confident that if I can get the signal to the deck, I can use it with my stereo: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541SWICP2/PAC-SWI-CP2-Steering-Wheel-Control-Adapter.html I don't know which CTM my truck has. I have power heated mirrors, but not heated seats, overhead computer, or keyless entry. Maybe there's just no good way to add steering controls to my truck? It sounds like if I upgrade the steering wheel, the signals will be carried over the same bus as the cruise control. But even if I have the High Line CTM (or maybe I can upgrade the CTM, I have seen threads on that), I still don't think I have the harness/plug that goes from the CTM to the stereo.

I come back to this every so often and I've never found an answer online. I think @Mopar1973Man will probably know off the top of his head, though! I have a 2001 SLT that did not come with the steering wheel audio controls. I really want them. I know I'd need to buy a wheel with the buttons, that's doable. I'm sure I'd need a different clock spring, that's simple. But I don't know if the existing harness would support the extra input signals? I've had my stereo out several times (and have installed several different stereos over the years) and I don't think I've ever seen an extra plug for the controls, which is why I'm thinking my existing harness wouldn't support what I want to do. Maybe there is a plug back there somewhere that I've just never noticed? I know I'd need a module to translate the signals to something my stereo can handle, but Crutchfield sells those, so that's not a problem.

For me it's not the multi-function switch because I replaced that and no change in wiper operation. My delay and speed settings work just fine, the only thing is if I turn it off mid-wipe the wipers stop right where they are (and they're slow when cold). What's funny is after a couple wipes they speed up a lot - it's just the first wipe or two where I'm like "come on little fella, you can do it". When I run the washer I have to remember to also put it on intermittent because otherwise it'll do a couple wipes but then stop halfway up the window. With int. setting it parks just fine after washing and then I turn off the wipers the rest of the way. Guess it's a new motor for me -- glad it's such an easy fix!

This is good to know. My wipers have been slow for years (and really slow when they're cold) so I should probably get around to this. Do you access everything through the cowl with the hood lowered? Maybe that black plastic piece pops off and everything is right there? Somewhat related: If I turn my wiper switch all the way off my wipers stop right where they're at. Nifty if I want to stop them at the top so I can grab a pine needle or break up some ice, but usually annoying. Any chance replacing the motor would fix that? I've always figured there's probably some bad connection somewhere that feeds power to the wipers to let them finish their wipe after the switch is off, but I've never tried to track it down. I did replace the multifunction switch, which fixed my high beams but not the wiper issue.

It probably is something to do with that metal band. Like if you put it on a truck where the pedal sits a little lower then the brake lights stay on because it's been "calibrated" for a taller pedal (similar to what Tractorman experienced). Obviously they can't recommend taking a component apart, especially on a safety device. That big warning makes sure that it's not their fault if you mess with it and it stops working.

I've always wondered about that as well. The "DO NOT REINSTALL" warning is molded into the entire side of the switch, but I've never understood (or explored) what would prevent it from working just fine if reinstalled. Always figured it was just a liability thing. I also have no memory of whether I replaced or reused after replacing my booster 10 years ago. But my brake lights work fine.

I think that's probably right. However, the alternating yellow/white is a far cry more visible than the factory dim yellow / bright yellow. Maybe some rules got changed for new vehicles and the new bulbs are in line with them.

I agree. I was disappointed at first. But I got over it. It is kind of cool that it behaves like the new cars.

For what it's worth, the new switchback bulbs from SBL no longer alternate white/amber when blinkering. I had that style and one of the bulbs partially failed (after many years) so I replaced them and the new ones turn off the white altogether when the blinker is on. So they're white as corner markers, and then yellow/off when that side's blinker is activated. When the blinker is cancelled the white turns back on steady. I assume they made this change to be in line with modern vehicles that behave this way from the factory.

What's the advantage of not lighting up the tail lights?

I have something like that. Good to keep in mind. Also good to know. Ok, new dash is officially on my "to do" list. Behind the rest of my interior rehab, front bumper lights/refurb, airbags w/ onboard air, and probably some other stuff I'm not thinking of at the moment...

I just looked at Geno's install writeup, and it's kind of scared me off. Remove the windshield to get to screws under the dash? https://blog.genosgarage.com/wordpress1/2016/03/98-02-dodge-ram-dash-replacement/

-sigh- all right, I'll add it to the list, I guess... It's a Cummins... how would you ever know if there are rattles in the dash?