MoparFreak1988

Sorry in advance for not having pics my digital camera has been mia for awhile now, now about that pesky little crankshaft position sensor if u dont know where its location it is that little sensor right behind your starter with one ten mill bolt holding it in, if it needs to be replaced you will need to remove the starter. Now whenever you have the starter out you should exercise/remove the sensor because of a rust ring that devolps in the socket that it sits in (the problem with mine) this forms from all the dirt sand salt and any other lovly debris on or off the pavement now it should only take u about to minutes if the starter is out and it is free. If it is not free you should start by wire brushing around the socket as well as soaking it with penatrent also u should take a shop rag and slide it down behind the dipstick and run it back and forth to get the crap out of there since you will prolly need to remove it if it gets really stuck but that is your choice it makes it easier if your lucky like me the housing will break apart and leave u with a little nub, rather than trying to grab it with a plyers i sugest takeing a 1/8in drill bit in a batery drill and drill into it from the bottom at about a 45 degree angle dont go to far about a half inch then take a 1/8 in drift one you dont like since you will almost definatly bend it slide it in ur new hole and spin it rock it and pull once ur at this point you will understand why removing the diptube can be nice if these fetal atemps prove useless then your going down my road which sucks... lol First off take a small blade screw driver and slowly chissel around the sensor you will prolly need a hamer there is an o-ring farther in so if you dont go to deep damaging the socket a little bit wolnt hurt once you have completed that and she still wolnt give in then go should lube it up again with your choice of penatrant i chose wd-40 take your drill and bit and drill into the sensor again four times the holes should be spaced at 12 - 3 - 6 - 9 oclock on the outer edge going again at a 45 degree angle into the sensor it will almost definately come out at this point i had to many holes in mine so half went one way the other into the oil pan so be carefull no more than 5 1/8 inch holes or you'll most likely get into trouble... Now for extracting it from the pan in the book it says we sould need to drop the tranny but you can get the clearance you need by loosening the four bolts on the all of the motor mount be sure to have some way of jacking the motor i found the only safe way was with a cherry picker secure the motor in the front at the thermostat housing and there only if your using the picker or in our case a piccker first then just a chain on the rafters at the shop and we used the hoist to raise it slightly now while ur up ther position the fan so that the gap between the blades is at 12 oclock otherwise u risk cracking the shroud now you can procede with loosing the four bolts this can be kinda trying but i found it easier than the single bolt through the mount since loosing the four bolt allows u to lift it without removing the bolts where as the single bolt will have to be completly removed to move the motor, trial and error taught me that... with the eight bolts loose i thinks thats all i may be missing something now proceed back and loosen the transmission bolts but again all of the mounting bolts only need to be loose if you remove then like i did you will most likely have a headache and alot more work for yourself i have a quick clamp on my exhaust behind the turbo so that is where i made the split you may not even need to break the exhaust it just looked like it was going to be in the way once you have done thatraise the motor till the fan hits the shroud now loosen your pan bolts and i think on autos there are cooller lines you will need to move or remove once that is done come at it from behind and remove the three pickup tube bolts which this is the hardest part to take apart and put back toghether, by the way by this time i hope u were smart enough to drain the oil some people arent tho i trust all of you would know that lol by this time it ought to be str8 forwardand fairly easy wiggleing the pan out wil take some paitence i didnt need to pull it all the way out to get the piece but upon finding a bit of sludge in the pan i wanted to get it out and clean it thoughly for those of you interested i hope it helps if i made a mistake or left something out let me know i think i got it all, we had a couple a cold ones in us when we started and a few more by the end so i may have missed a thing or to lol

Another thought is assuming you have a welder a cut off wheel and some basic skills and patience glove are good to lol this was my high school project on my 91 cummins you take the stock muffler (assuming you have it still) cut it open remove all the baffels and weld her shut no cost and it sounds great till you do a barrel roll with the truck :banghead: lol my 99 dodge that I bought with the silverline exhaust is now the same way cuz it sounds better and its easy and they can be picky here in Wisconsin about those mufflers only in certain countys tho I dont get it, btw some states take different action between gassers and diesels since our trucks are normally loud it is acceptable in most places that there st8 piped even tho state law doesnt allow str8 piped exhaust hope this helped some

Ya I did I broke down this morning and took it to ervs shop to get it pushed out :banghead:. I went online and found that you can drop the oil pan without dropping the tranny but you would almost definatly need a lift otherwise its quite trying getting it back in is the hardest part I found out and yes its fixed now I was going to do a write up but no one seemed interested lol... Thanks again

Hey guys got a question for ya has anyone ever removed there crankshaft position sensor mine is right between the starter and the stock lift pump? My problem is that upon removal the factory service manual says to twist as you pull to remove it upon doing so the plastic housing disinigrated leaving me with a little quarter inch nub, any suggestions for getting this thing out without dropping the oil pan since I would need to drop the transmission to get the oil pan off, other than that I was thinking maybee drive a screw into it?Thanks in advance

Sweet, thanks for the info now it just comes down to figureing out which way to go and with money beeing tight in this current time lol and what else my truck needs I think im going to go with the modified holly unit for its availabilty and because thats what is on most of my gassers lol I'll let him test the water for awhile and watch and see how long mine goes without pushing it lol.

Thats a nice setup and definately giving the airdog a run for its money other than the fact that the airdog has proved it self already and has a better warrenty I like though with holley I can go down ultimate truck in town here and build that kit like he said for about 300 which is what I would like to pay and that includes the second filter. My question is does the airdog actually increase power and effciency like most have claimed and does it really help to quiet the engine? It was also to my understanding 400 just got you the pump minus the filter kit is that correct?

Just a though on the lift pump since I am currently in the market I know the airdog which is mine of choice at this time is mounted to the frame. The stock one that is old and doing ok at this point pressure wise is mounted to the side of the block and when I approached Mopar regarding a stock replacement and the cost compared to the airdog and to find they sold a 379 dollar retro fit kit that moved it to the tank therfore meaning I would have to drop the tank. Has anyone else heard of this kit and quite frankly if it is the case who'd want to drop the tank everytime it quits I'd be fine with stock if it was 200 and in the same place but I'm not dropping my tank for 400 lol and they say this started four years ago with great success not meaning to start a big debate just would like to know what you guys have heard

Sweet well then I guess im pretty much in the clear since I dont use any oil and I dont have a slobber bottle and have no need for one because the line is only damp at most havnt even had a drip yet... lol I've got a gasser compression gauge when the time comes can you use that one or would it need to be different to accept the high compression of the diesel? Btw I redid that ground wire according to the diagram I dont know what mopar did but it wasnt done correct... lol and so far that has appeared to solve most of the problems though my clutch packs are aging I think because I will notice a slip only when its cold and im hooked to the big trailer the little guy doesnt bother it anymore thanks for the tips...

Lol I dont know I was thinking the 24 valves didnt keep going like the 12's but it really comes down to maintenance and I'l prolly pull the head then so I know whats happen inside there and put her back toghether if she meets the standards. Plus I'm one of those that drives all over the state and want to know my truck is good to go, I'm that kind of a guy some call me picky I just call it being thorough lol always open to sugestions from you guys though since you know your stuff

Thanks for the information it will prove usefull I changed the oil and filter about a month and a half ago and plan to do it again when I do my engine oil change the oil was pretty narly smelling at the time but no debris just a bit of sludge which i thourghly cleaned out and adjusted the bands for the first time whoops... lol a couple of locals said with "something like that your clutch packs may be flakey" but it wouldn't explain the studder shift would it? After looking up the labor involved it up i'll save the tranny swap for when i put the 12 valve in my 89 suburban. Later this aft I will look at adding that second wire because the ground i have now looks like a five year old did it, its not hidden at all its just hanging out in the middle of the engine bay out there to get hit by everything and anything. As for where im at in WI im pretty south east in a town called oconomowoc say that five times fast lol I'll give him a call, thanks again for the help

Off topic I do live in Wisconsin and often see negative temps through out the winter and am yet to have a problem with my stock lift pump which has been replaced once and to my knowledge the vp44 is original i got the truck at 120,000 and acording to the dodge dealer the lift pump was just replaced and the vp was original I just started the two stroke oil diet about 10-15 thousand ago and my two questions are how long do i have before they dump and aparently this is unusual that they last this long? Im just starting the proccess of instaling my fuel pressure gauge so i'll post again since im curious of my actual pressure and the drop I get when my heaters cycle with the stock lift pump...

Hello, I have a 1999 dodge ram 2500 with the cummins obviously and a hurting automatic transmission, I dont know if the unit needs to be completly rebuilt again or what, but it will not shift firm, like before, it hesitates and has developed a studder shift were it shifts up down then up agian this occurs in first and seccond and seccond to third. I am lost on these trannys and it has gotten worse since my last post, I really dont want to fork out another 2500 and up for another rebuild which was done only a year and a half ago, is this possibly a computer problem? If i have to rebuild it again is it worth it, if so where should I go i live in Wisconsin and am not really sure where the best place is for our trucks and if I go auto I want it to outlast the remaining life of the motor it have 250,000 on the clock and plan on doing an inframe at 350,000 if it makes it... lol and over a 100,000 on the tranny. Are ther quality units that could be possibly ordered offline? or would it be best switching it to a 6 speed of which I found a swap kit on craigslist for 3000 out of a 2003 its a nv5600 i think, if im wrong correct me. lol any sugestions would be much appreciated.

Ya that would be nice, my mistake for going to in depth in the introductions page, i'm pretty new to this whole thing but i'm learning more everytime I log on and by the way thanks for the great site I have a dodge repair manual for this truck but it doesnt even come close to the knowledge and help I have already found on your site thanks again.

Thanks for the welcome gassernomore, I took the truck to a tranny shop that did the work on my scca car and they wer stumped, it is an intermiten problem it slips at highway speeds when its cold and your trying to pass and at 15 mph it wolnt stay in one gear it just keeps shifting between first and second gear it only does it usually when its unloaded or cold I changed the fluid filter and adjusted the bands but got nowhere. I wonder if the truck being computer controled is trying to learn a driving style but cant key in on the right one. I dont know anymore and I have kinda run out of ideas lol.

Newbie here, I was turned on to this site through cummins forum and thought this would be a good place to start. I have a 1999 2500 with an exhaust and pretty much stock elsewise she has 240,000 miles and a rebuilt automatic transmission with over over a 100,000 miles and it is now acting up again, cant say im suprised though. Im new here and to most other forums, because i usually just put my head down and try to work it out but now i am completly stumped, i dont know how much work is involed in converting it to a stick or if it would even be a good idea, I pull a 25 foot dump trailer daily so I dont even know if i want to go stick or stay with the auto, any sugestions would be sweet and much appreciated.