MoparFreak1988

We took it out on the road today with the scanner hooked up and determined that most likely my ecm is flakey or ther is a wiring problem because the MAP and the IAT are the only two goofed up Im debating throwing a new map sensor at it but I dont know if that will help and I dont quite understand live feeds but he was saying something about when I would step on the gas and create boost the map sensor volt reading should go up but instead it would go down first then sit then pop up other times it would work without issue and IAT cant make its mind up it cant stay in the same place for five seconds when its moving but it will kinda chill out and sit when the truck is sitting this computer thing is a bit past me any help is apprechiated Thanks much to those that have helped me to this point

Thanks much Moparman I've got a scantron thing but the pos doesnt do much of anything for live feeds so I'll take it down to Ervs and have him take his ten grand scanner and look at the live feeds for me thanks much as always I'll post results tomorow his shop is closed for the eavening --- Update to the previous post... IAT reporting flakey signal replaced this morning with little to no effect the Map sensor was readeing low as well as the IAT the IAT was outa spec before now there both good but still low according to Erv then asked me if I had a chip and I said no but the dealer said ther might have been one and I am yet to locate one with no luck so either there isnt one and something else is goofy or Erv is right in the fact that some one installed and "fooler type chip" that messes with ecm parameter to increase power I dont know anyone heard of this

:shrug:I will not rule it out completly but I would say that my blow by is a normal amount but I am still a bit concerned just because it can be worse on certain day it only dripped once while sitting 15 minutes at 210 at 75 degree ambient temp Im confused it almost seems to act like an electrical problem --- Update to the previous post... clear no codes returned crank position sensor was replaced last winter can u bench test the sensors you were talking about? would it help if I cleaned and inspected them?

Just got back from my drive it is idleing in the driveway atm and the blow by isnt as bad today as it was yesterday tho it is significantly cooler out today by about twenty degrees and thank you very much for the sugestions the turbo appears to be good I had the aire cleaner and all of its assembly off yesterday I checked end play and clearence and when I spun the turbine it spun freely with no weird noises and none of that grind that you can feel sometimes when a bearing is bad so the air cleaner is clear it is a bhaf from Vulcan thats less than a year old with an Outerwear the intake pipe and turbo inlet were clear of any moisture or oil I have not been loosing antifreeze either and my oil is always a a real dark gold with no foam so I kinda doubt a head gasket so that leaves us with a sensor unless a turbo could fail in some way I havent checkedAs always thanks much for ideas and thoughts

Got some questions about what my truck is doing over the past six month it has been to five different states and I have put on about twenty five thousand miles right around 270,000 ish only about half the time I was pulling a loaded 16ft enclosed trailer weight aprox 6000 so nothing to strenuous but over the past six month I have been noticing more of a buring oil smell in the cab its been using more oil and the biggest two concerns are when its at operating temperature 210ish my blowby tube is steaming and it drips a black cool very thin liquid about one drip every 10 to 15 seconds I have asked around and we came up with fuel and engine oil but why its cool to the touch is odd (I fully intend to take the truck out get it to temp and c if i can get a video of the tube or at least pics and I'll try to get a pic of the fluid) and the other concern is my truck has been smokin like it has been modded with jus about every mod u can find the thing is all it has is a bhaf and a str8 piped exhaust the high idle mod shouldnt matter and I'm to cheap to have guages thats this winters project:lol: most of the time it is thick black to the point of clouding an intersection to the point of not being able to see a stoplight in my rearview and other times if I jump it real hard there be a white kinda blue hint thrown in ther is my turbo failing or is it something else and F.Y.I the air cleaner was removed then broke down an throughly cleaned it all the turbo inlet and air itake pipes appear to be clear and dry, the turbine spins freely and the axial end play is spec. any thoughts are greatly apprechiated and thanks much in advance

Thanks for the quick response Mike but there are no error codes and the ignition system is coil on plug so unless there is a communication error in one of the coils I dont know what would be ticking and I would think power and fuel effiecency would have been hampered by this point and that is why my plan was to check all the exhaust manifold seals/gaskets and hardware for any loose or stripped out ones and if that wasnt the cause I was going to pull the valve covers and start hunting for anything out of spec the hard part is I cant quite make out where it is exactly coming from so just blind hunting may take quite some time lol thanks for the tips what I dont get is why most Dodge techs say this is normal and btw three friends of mine have a simmilar noise tho less frequent and doesnt stay on as long and they also have less milage on theres so this problem seems to be occuring often in dodge vehicles with the 4.7 well the digging begins tomorrow I will keep you guys up to date, if anyone has a dodge truck or suv with a 4.7 I'd like to hear what you think and if you've ever experienced it or not Thanks again and as always it is much appreichiated

Hey guys got a question I'm throwing out here for my pops he has a 2001 dodge durrango with the 4.7v8 shortly after he bought the truck in fall 2004 there has been a tick on start up (btw he doesnt use his block heater in the winter and he lives in central wisconsin so I think he should on real cold ones my ) when the problem started it would go way in about 30 seconds and has gradualy stayed on longer as the miles racked up two years ago he took it to a dealer and they thought it was the timing chain tensioner, they replaced that and the chain with no results, they then went out onto the lot and found two other 4.7s a dakota and a durango both had the same sound but both went away twice as fast as my pops truck did and so the tech worked out a deal for not fixing his car and here we are now. It has gotten worse and in the winter it can take 5-10 minutes to go away, in this upcoming week hes going to bring it by and I plan to check all of the valvetrain and exhaust manifolds cuz those seemed to be the common problem with these trucks any other ideas or input or someone that has one that did this I would love any and all advice you can give me hes pretty much a travling field engineer so hes getting paranoid that his engine is going to fail when hes 700 miles from home. Thanks as always the information is always greatly apprechiated.

Sorry to hear all of your bad luck and this is why I hat my auto when I had problems overheating I had to dig one of the rubber check balls out that I forgot about thank god it was that easy but I still think that upgraded vavle bodys in a porley designed transmissions just isnt the ticket I need a new tranny and I am just pushing mine out I dont know what others think but I would the cooling systems for our trannys is there demise I wish I had something intelligent to say to help you out but its probably a pinched or cut wire in a bs connection as mike kinda indicated they make these things to darn complex now days at least for some (computer controlled 24 valves and auto)

Interesting it is and I would have to agree with the reps theres nothing better than ams oil I run it in everything boats sleds bikes and almost all the vehicle have been switched what I find more interesting is one of my diffs is sealed with rtv and ams oil severe gear is not compatible with rtv thats what I find a lil and as for putting it back together one guy laying on each side with two to three bolts in each hand and put her up there slow and easy me and my help used a jack on the transfer case but we did the tranny without a jack it was easier I think there gets to be to much down there with the jack when your wrestling the tranny and I did it with the truck sitting on its four wheels jacked up the front to clear the frame when I pulled it out but otherwise I was like you on ground level

You ought to be able to get half the T/C drained by dropping the pan and leaving key on truck in neutral for twelve to twenty-four hours thats what I did when I removed mine as sugested by a friend and got at least twelve quarts out of my completly stock tranny and I did divorce my tranny and t-case its definately worth the few extra minutes I'd say 30 or less considering I already have a fake tooth from catching a wrench with my mouth so I didnt want to risk it

Sounds like I got myself a plan saying somebody came and looked at it this morning and paid cash after the test drive owell it will make a nice truck for someone now comes the fun part putting a plow mount on my truck and creating a new front bumper and brush guard to protect my lights and grill from those brown antlered things :lmao:4 this year alone and my truck shows it thats why I'm chicken to put a picture of it on my profile well at least I know I've got a bit of a summer project

Thanks much now comes the true million dollar question do I cut my losses and put a stick in my 99 and fix up the body cost=roughly 5-6k redo the auto with a Goerend unit and all components that ever saw tranny fluid replace with new stock or upgraded parts (lines coolers etc.) and fix the body cost= roughly 7-9k or sell it for 7500 and replace it with a first gen of some type there is a 2wd stick extra cab dually with a cummins near me but it was no where as clean as the 250 and would almost need a new interior :banghead: the only thing I hate more than body work the last is probably going to cost the same as putting a stick in my 99 and I will lose money on the 99 due to what I have put into it really between a rock and a hard place on this one

I got mine through there that took the most time I dont know how else you can do it let me take a look in my book and as for the shop if its Goerends you wolnt find one better and I'd say after doing a valve body a tourque converter upgrade if you have 150,000 or more on the tranny I would say replace it simply because I got 50k miles out of the upgrades and my clutch packs are just about smoked and it wasnt Goerends parts tho... and why I would say there the best its a six hour drive from here to there and here in my town of 20k ppl anyone driving a hopped up auto dodge cummins has a Goerend tranny including three local napa guys and a cpl sled pullers and were close to 500 miles away and that just the people I know and thats why if mine stays auto it will be a Goerend transmission and you can bet I will replace everything in my transmission system new coolers and lines if it had old sludge fluid in it its going in the trash its the only I figured I could make it last hope this helped I'll let you know what the Dodge service manual says Thought I'd add I didnt see the question reguarding the check valve previously and I think were talking about the same one... I'll dig it up but I mentioned in a prior post that you can do this and install a line in its place the valve just keeps the fluid in the tourque conveter in park and it will stick causing over heating while driving it should be on the low pressure return side I'll do som digging mine has been removed for three years now and when I change my fluid I can get between 10 and 12 quarts out... unheard of by some hope this helped I'll post the info as I find it I'm still recovering from the accident so it may take a day for me to find it at least im finally off crutches

Thanks much isx I think that just about solves that I'm leaning toward the nv4500 simply because I really dont like doing alot of shifting and the trailer is not huge by any means and it only tags along 2 maybee three times a month other than that its usually a 8000 tandem axle 20' enclosed trailer and that 3to four days out of the weak so its towing often just not heavy often and a simple nut issue is easy to work around now comes finding one locally which right now is the main deciding factor my only qualm is going from a quad cab to a reg cab who knows my auto may still become a stick just because its cheaper and either way its a bit of work

Thats a neat trick with the crossmember never would have thought of that and sure beats beating it out with a bfh lol it sucked when I took mine out and mikes got everthing on the head the transfer case seems to weigh as much as the stinkin tranny and before lowering it double and tripple check for bs connections I ripped a grounding strap off by accident while doin mine and it is the identical tranny to yours and we will have more electronics and lines than a stick shift so heads up there otherwise take it slow and easy and you'll do good except that these trannys no matter what they wolnt last longer than a stock lift pump on a modded truck, your only shot is all new coolers lines and an upgraded unit from gorend or ats... just my I hate these autos

Sweet that makes sense when you think about also considering my truck mpg has only gone up with the mods I've done to it lol by the way the truck drove super this morning and its an nv5600 6 speed and all its parts in the back so I think I would want to sell that spare tranny and parts and try to get my hands on a nv4500 unless you think you can make a decent trannny from the 5600 I know there parts are getting harder to come by does that mean its probably worth less than a good nv4500?

Thanks for the tips isx will a south bend hold up pretty well and also I'm only looking to be in the 270-320hp range I dont know what my torque would be but I'd say 600 or less I'm still kinda new to Cummins motors I do know it will need to be able to handle a 20 k gooseneck which is probably why my auto is toast other wise I'll just tweek up the 99 and fix up the body. what do you think a twelve valve can do for hp/tq wise while still keeping about 18-23mpg As always thanks in advance

Ok so this may be in the wrong place but we'll try anyway ok so I have kinda needed a plow truck and my auto in the 99 is hurting bad. I would like to keep it but with what I have put in the tranny and what I forsee in the future I am asking you guys If you had my truck that I have listed in my sig plus a lil rust would you sell it in exchange for a first gen with a plow 120,000 fully loaded pw,pl,cc and a stick for six grand and I ought to be able to get eight for mine now I know the getrag isnt impressive which was the other question the guy has a six speed for it and bell housing pedals clutches sensors all of it out of a 2003 5.9 24 valve he seemed to think you would be able to convert it all of it was included with the truck I am going to take a look at it tomorow and get more pics but here is the one he sent me Let me know what you think thanks in advance, Ben

I would agree to bad they didnt have it the guy there attempted to sell me a Fram claiming it was the same except 3 dollars cheaper something smells fishy what do you think about Fram Mike part of me is saying that this is the most popular volume wise shop and part place in the area so they should be reliable... maybee let me know what you think otherwise a good online spot just to get it over and done with lol off topic to my suprise I will take photos I think wrapping as much of my lift pump as I could in header wrap my stocker just wolnt die and I have been monitoring it closely is it strange for a carter pump to last 140k roughly and still puting out about 54 oz during a cycle with minimum air I was planning to replace it with a belt driven mechanical pump but with how my lift pump is going I may just redo what I did but I supose that pump wolnt support around 270-320hp engine effectivly (which is where I plan to go with this truck) will it I dont have my pressure guage in yet because I am lazy and on crutches so dont bother asking my pressure is currantly I go off simple tests and alot seems to work

I dont know quite what isx has been talking about but whenever you allow air to flow less turbulent and less obstructed on a boosted app. you will see both more hp and a litlle better mpg the turbo pushing harder and the air can flow free'er than it could before I dont now how you wouldnt see a gain of sorts by the nature the charge will be denser hence why you will gain hp and not as much mpg the best way my tutors explained it was you get more form a bigger aircharge cooler with bigger pipes you gain hp due to the denser charge and mpg at the same time because you arn't working as hard as far as I understand thats why our diesels have the abbility to get 23 mpg because the factory restricted them... just like the bs that almost all our trucks on this forum by federal regulation are illegal strange right if your curios I'll start another thread not preaching just my two cents and I think this may be the chance for my auto to get 22 mpg up from 20

Cool thanks Mike I would rather take honesty any day over two grand roughly for fuel system repair I'm changing mine today with a fleetguard it was due for a change and has been for some time so I'll treat her right with a fleetguard thanks again

Wow now I feel like an idiot thanks Mike I've only driven past that place a couple million times and never really thought about it...

So random question but I have been running napa/wix because I cant find someone that sells fleetguard filters within a hundred mile of me and I dont want to get swindled by shipping charges and the people that think the filter is a 20 dollar unit just so you know I tried finding a Cummins dealer and the one with the half a shot at pulling it off is a cummins npower shop down in oak creek that doesnt sell parts to my knowledge will find out tomorow and keep you posted All the help is apprechiated

Not to hijack so napa and wix brand are not sutible fuel filters I run all wix or napa fuel filters and have been since I got the truck and am yet to see any problems with the wif light, only question are the good enough or am i dancing with the devil