MoparFreak1988

his price is high I think and at just over 4 hours it may be an option obviously things like wheelbase and if you are 2 or 4 wheel drive that makes a difference I don't know for sure if it will work in a second gen but I believe at one point second gens came with this transmission. http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwi/ptd/4820857242.html looked at this awhile back as well don't know if it is still available and if it is, it is close enough to me that if you need someone to check it out I can do that for you http://racine.craigslist.org/cto/4777272109.html

I guess my questions more come down to this with those 35 inch tall tires how much off pavement time do you see ever been at the point where a front tire has lifted from the ground or essentially maxed out the suspension travel at max travel do you rub can you turn without rubbing with that 2.5 inch spacer how many times in one year did you break a sway bar end link if at all? My concerns are based off of this my truck is my daily driver I put good all terrains on my truck because last time it was in service it saw 70 percent of working time on undeveloped roads being logging, farm access, gravel, or new home development in farm fields. I am a carpenter by trade but this truck sees most of the hard service from the fire department as well as up north when I am hunting and trapping for extra income. What I can tell you is that I have a bone stock suspension with 265/76/16 Genneral Grabber AT2's I got stuck 7 times to which I had to be pulled out going through the ditch or ruts I have often times "lifted" a tire be it front or rear often times when that happen I have rubbing somewhere along the line. I run all moog suspension components installed by a competent shop that being said in one year I broke 5 total sway bar end links and only payed for the first set. every time the design was a little different and our conclusion was the truck suspension was flexing more than the end links could take breaking the rod clean off the ball joint where the link attaches to the sway bar... All I want is a system that will perform well without rubbing and without breaking things be it 33's or if possible 35's but the amount of flex this truck saw last time it was in service I am concerned about even trying to fit 35's

I stand corrected they are the 3 inch soft ride coils from Don I emailed my brother they are off his diesel ram that hit an immovable object(stump logging area) in the snow last year it was a work truck that had the front axle almost completely tore off so I have usable springs thats about it. He said he ran stock control arms but the geometry and ride wasn't right he had a drop pit-man arm and i believe he had a third gen track bar is what he said

So I am attempting to put together a good low buck lift I am not trying to clear anything more than a set of 35's at most but mainly I want to improve ride quality and retain stock geometry. Now I have a set of Thuren 4 inch coils laying around from a donor truck and was using that as a point to jump off the ledge on improving the suspension so unless I missed something to make these work right I will need for just the front suspension new control arms drop pit-man arm new adjustable or modified stock 3rd gen track bar(completely lost here I know what it does but don't know what is best for our trucks) longer sway-bar end links or something to correct that shocks I believe that is it obviously the rear will be new leaf springs and shocks, as far as the front goes I was hoping to get input from people who have lifted their trucks and found what works and doesn't work. I plan on grabbing new wheels and tires which haven't been ordered and I really don't know what type of wheel to run as it will be on there 24/7 365 come rain salt mud gravel snow or ice so I need to find a solution that will last and is not painted or powder coated black

Happy holidays to all a little update so the 4x4 shift handle is being a little bit more involved than originally anticipated. At first we just removed the old knob and installed the new knob, it was taller which wasn't okay at first but it grew on me as it gave more leverage making the shifting easier. then we hit problems the added height did not allow us to hit 4wd low the handle was not in the right spot in general in my opinion to far forward (felt like I was doing some form of yoga stretch to get my truck all the way forward into 4 low) so solution 180 the handle open up some bends and we are off.... Pictures in stock form this is 2hi then this is 4hi then neutral is basically on the dash So easy fix we thought... just flip the handle 180 it works and bolts up fine only issue is the trim piece in 4hi it was contacting here so we opened up the two bends on the shop brake and got it close but at this point the first bend at the floor that moves it to the side needs to be removed and then we're golden. I am still looking at remaking the handle in it's entirety though... pictures after the change up 2hi i might add this mod put the handle right in my hand making it easy to shift at a moments notice 4hi and 4 low More little upgrades to come

I have a 35/40 with the 12 cm gated housing I went this way because I was afraid of lag (mistake), I replaced my turbo because it was leaking oil and end play was close to out of spec. In a fairly stock form truck no programmer, no sticks, 4 inch turbo back exhaust and BHAF intake, the 35/40 12cm does not lag much more than stock and gets better mid range pulling power, the major downfall is as war eagle mentioned is the drive pressure is higher so controlling egts on long grades will be harder but not impossible I love the 12cm hole-shot but if I were to do it over I would go with 14 understanding in stock form you will have lag but once you add sticks and a good programmer which most of us do you will have a good reliable setup that doesn't have you concerned about egt's when pulling hard on steep long grades (almost forgot to mention with this setup you can enjoy the smile on your face when passing the ford in the slow lane with a 12,000 pound trailer in tow)

53 and a 64 dads old farm trucks

Thank you for the information all of what you explained makes perfect sense to me as my old chevy's were on the same side and that thing bucked like a s.o.b. on a gravel road trying to start on a hill with a heavy trailer

short bed. On a long bed it may work but I also thought long beds used a larger fuel tank is that correct or incorrect? If the tank size is the same (which I doubt as the rear of my tank ends almost exactly at the imaginary level line drawn up from the front of the axle tube seen in picture above) and the shock is about or greater than 16 inches farther back then my shock mount it may work the exhaust would be the only other thing in the way that would then have to exit under passenger front door or run outside the frame rail. Personally I would add a bumper that can carry the spare tire and get a ford f450 tank they had a 30+ tank that mounted behind the rear axle in between the frame rails going almost exactly where the spare is... I don't like how close it is to the rear bumper (but that is Ford's specialty put the tank in a location to make said car blow up) here is what I speak of

Ah gotcha makes sense

Okay question are they on opposite sides to make them work better? The statement I made was based off the fact the springs due hold it in place but the axle is still attached to almost 6 inch blocks then to the springs, now the shocks are attached directly to the frame and directly to the axle and being on opposite sides I would believe they would most definitely help prevent axle wrap am I wrong?

CUMMINSDIESELPWR in regards to adding the extra tank, I actually considered the same thing during this project but I see one large obstacle which involves the rear suspension shock mount. seen here in this picture. personally I wouldn't want to mess around with it On another note got a couple of pictures of some of the interior additions stainless 316 4x4 shift knob laser engraved (handle to follow but will be green and polished you shall see) Tilt column adjust again 316 polished stainless. the 4x4 shift handle is in production as well as the transmission shift lever, the 4x4 shift handle will be green and polished Leaves for Paint January 5th and I am ready The above post was edited to remove information that was incorrect sorry. Thank you MnTom and CSM for correcting me

zero run time on the oil before storage, still looked brand new when it was checked before first start, it has been changed as of an hour ago.

It is alive 20141217_1635351.mp4

It is alive 20141217_1635351.mp4

I hate those HID kits as well but I do have one question and sorry if it has been asked before but am I getting this right the retrofit kit allows you to properly aim the projector versus the drop in where you adjust the housing and not the bulb.

Thank you for this post I was curious what a bright box did over time, I assumed that if it's truly better and reliable(all 8 filaments burning on high beam) they would have done it from the factory. For that reason I plan to install sport headlights that operate as the would from the factory, but also take advice from Mike and joecool911 and install L.E.D driving and L.E.D amber fog lamps into the bumper they are rigid industries L.E.D. lamps (link above) they will both look the same when off except the amber illuminates yellow vs. white. On low beams due to the amount of light output and state law I plan to run only the fog at 800 lumens or the driving at 1500 lumens I have a factory switch to control the fog lamps so I am thinking I will just wire the two lamps together with a switch in the cab to select between the two. Then on high beams all both fog lamps and driving lamps will be on, the wiring will be a pita but I have a father that is an electrical engineer (who is the one that came up with this idea) I mentioned state law so I will touch base on it a littl bit because I was kind of shocked at some of Wisconsin's rules your state may be different but thing of note: Always check your local laws first before modifying any forward facing light on your vehicle... we have these rules to keep you and other drivers safe. In Wisconsin a fog or driving lamp is identified as an adverse weather light and must be mounted below the level center line of the headlamps otherwise it is considered an off road lamp and then in turn that vehicle can not be used on the highway unless it meets the detailed restrictions outlined here now again this is Wisconsin your state may be different http://docs.legis.wisconsin.gov/statutes/statutes/347/II/07 On low beam no more than 4 main lamps should be illuminated those are detailed as a lamp emitting over 300 candle power and can illuminate people and/or objects at a distance of 100 feet or farther That being said I don't know if I can legally convert my headlights to a different model from a different vehicle even though the thought of hid projectors sounds really nice

So I had a crazy idea that I researched a bit only to find out it should work and with the extra set of fender I have it should be a good spare time project while the truck is at paint the idea is simple put theseheadlights in my fenders they are close in size and should work fairly easy now my truck should have a unique attitude now I just need to get my hands on a used set

ya that sounds about right I found some on amazon from that manufacture, that's the route I will be going for now. Side note I mentioned the Durango headlights above well I actually looked into it and the Durango headlight has takes up an area about 7x17x4 inches deep.... Which is pretty much the size of our factory headlights I think it would be fairly easy to the point of I plan to get the truck back on the road with the sport headlights, then converting the second set of fenders I have to house the Durango headlight. I have been waiting for a special touch to add to my rig and this should do the trick quite nicely So now all I need to do is wait for a good set of used Durango headlights to come around, good thing I will have my hands tied for awhile with the restoration.

Ya I had a race car that had it's motor mounted with poly mounts and that thing could rattle the fillings out of your teeth so I am a little skeptical because that was a big block v8 and we are talking about a Cummins here... I suppose that is motor vs. cab mounts, I guess all it means is more chassis feel in the cab? IE. what rancherman said more noise vibration and harshness. BTW rancherman she could flop around enough going down a logging road to give a person motion sickness... so anything hopefully ill be better Update on the truck I am still waiting for those two panels from the painter sucks I cant do any painting and have to rely on others.

Awesome thanks for the replies I plan to build my own as I talked briefly with Craig the creator of that write up last night through email, really a great guy. I was thinking about headlight depot lights as they seem to be the leading manufacture of the aftermarket headlamp... When contacting sellers on ebay as well as amazon you will find most everyone get's the sport headlights through headlight depot as a vendor.... At 300 a piece for factory headlights I'm definitely not going that route, I had read some headlight depot light had problems with quality and leaking, is that the case? is there something I need to look out for? right now I have a truck that was a non sport with non sport wiring with a sport cab trick is both headlight where destroyed in the accident, so at this point I have no headlights and I have to pick the best route/bang for your buck I'm thinking the sport conversion is the case but I may be wrong.... I do have factory fog lights which I'm thinking about replacing with something like this http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lighting-Lighting-Accessories/Dually-Series-Flood-LED-Light-Set-of-Two.aspx?t_c=14&t_s=448&t_pt=4242&t_pn=RIG20211 The other Idea which must be researched more and is assuming I have countless dollars to throw at this beast for 300 a piece I would look at picking up a set of HID 2014 Dodge Durango Citadel headlights used and fit those to the truck

My buddy's cnc shop does specialty sampling equipment, I wonder if their engineer could reverse engineer these cheap enough, I know the metal they would have in their throw away bins, not to mention it is all high grade stainless or other specialty metals and they deal with large rubber bushings as well. the six figure wall of shame(all screwed up in some way shape or form) hard to believe a couple of the parts up there cost more than my truck

Sorry to beat the dead horse because I'm sure this has been brought up elsewhere just couldn't find it.... Title says it I have a non sport truck my restoration is using a sport cab I would like to convert to sport headlights. I read other post about issues with there harness's what is the best option/ bang for your buck If building it yourself where did you source parts are you happy with it how much did you spend would you do it again If you bought a harness where did it come from are you happy with it and how much did you spend how hard was the install Questions for both options are how long have you run with out issue and is everything working as expected?

Failure, they came in today and where purchased from ebay and are polyurethane, I didn't read the description they where listed as stock body to chassis mounts. the stealership wants about a grand for new body mounts according to the guy I talked to. He said I had to buy each piece of the mount individually twelve rubber pieces at 80 a piece then you have 12 plates 6 bolts and 6 sleeves I hope is 80 for each mount set eitherway that is a rip off What are your thoughts on having to use polyurethane do you think my truck will ride like crap? I think I am going to go junkyard hopping and try to find a good used set

Could it be computer related? I wonder if a whole reflash with your current trucks options may assist in the problems.