MoparFreak1988

currious as to the problem that is caused by putting a thin piece of hardboard/cardboard between my intercooler and radiator keeps me in the right temp range and my truck gets about a half mpg gallon less but thats typically what it does when winter hits and it isnt blocking any of my coolers and fyi if you have an auto transmission your secondary cooler is mounted to the intercooler the main one is under your turbo controled by your engine coolant and egt's only know this because when I had my tranny done the shop came to me and showed me it and asked if I wanted it relocated and I said yes unfortunately you cant relocate it so it got plugged and another one was added up front (I only did this because overheating was the determined cause of tranny failure) imho I think the fronts that cover the grill are worse because the cause your egts to increse dont know how but my bud switched from what you guys got to what I have because my egts were 150 degrees lower on average Im not meaning to fight just currios if I have maybee overlooked something I will take a pic today so yall can see what im talking about...

Not to hijack but it appears that more than one person has the lukewarm heat issue im just mainly to lazy to tear my dash apart and find out whats really wrong but my random thought for you to check and question is when does you ac compressor come on and turn off I have come to find that this appears to be my problem simply because it only turns off when the selector is on the feet and that is the only time i get good warm air my other thought is maybee superstats do suck just put a new one last week and got my winter front in and when im in town in 10-20 degrees I will barely see 175-180 then on the highway I will see 205 or better. my winter front is also not visible from the outside since it goes between the intercooler and the radiator thus keeping egt's down big time... hope this helps as I said all I know is that this ac compreesor is running all the time and I know it should when its above freezing on defrost mode but it doesnt explain why when ac is on max and the regular setting it'll freeze u outta there then when i switch to the blend feet/chest ac off obviously selection it stays kinda cold and the compressors running but its not nearly as cold as when the ac was on... as i say to my friends wit my truck it get to 50 60 in the cab so grab a jacket

pads were always rated 8800 and Mike out of curiosity how do you change your fluid because I may or may not be doing it right and I also hate rebuilding calipers though there is logic to what you speak and I could see that being a problem very much so if I had over 20,000 miles on each go round which I havnt seen and whenever I do brakes I always clean amd inspect all the guide pins boots and clean and regrease as needed or replace the only thing that may be an issue is the caliper piston itself which I will tear into today looking for an issue and Mike if you dismount your caliper turn it upside down facing the opening of the bleeder to the ground and open up the bleeder with a hose in a glass then hook up my pressure bleeder to the master cylinder wolnt that get most of the moisture out considering I usualy pump half a quart or more through each caliper or wheel cylinder...

Alright this will take some explaining I think I got it all but could have missed so let me know and sorry you may want a cup of water or beer and a snack for this one Ok so two years ago about I had to completly rebuild the front brakes this was at about 200,000 maybee a little less now yes I did not buy it new but the person I bought it from said the brakes had been done at around 130,000 ( back on topick that means in thery I got about 70k from them and I am the second owner) the rotors were original and under thickness before even trying to turn so ne rotors, calipers, pin kit and pads got done and found out rwal or any abs for that matter makes it so jack or jane schmo cant bleed there brakes and you need a scan tool to cycle the pump or modulator? so I was told and have read about and even with pressure bleeding I get no pedal) took it in had it bled. Now 215,000 comes and passenger soft line blew almost taking the truck with it because I was trying to avoid a deer two new soft lines one for each side I also inspected my pads at this point and the pads were less than half lifepassenger side looked a little thinner about a week after it started pulling to the right i proceeded to pull the wheels and found passenger side is shot drivers side 15 percent or better milage aproxinate 219,000 (those were Napa brand premium pads) so I redid the pads turned the rotors replaced the slide pins (4) and had the calliper mounts (2) cleaned and polished were the pins go put her back together using EBC'S green stuff no pulls, no problems. Then at 235,000 I here a grinding coming from passenger front oull the wheels low and behold pads on passenger side smoked drivers side 20 to 30 percent another set EBC's (called and complained with receipts and milage recording so i got them free just pay shipping) cleaned pins fresh lube and off we go. Now I get to 260,000 pads are gone same situation passenger side smoked drivers side good again cheap as I can go put napas cheapys on about 32 versus 60 bucks had to put new rotors on due to them being just above thickness (Napa brand chinesse made horse #!*# :banghead:) so that after they were turned they'd be to thin cleaned up the pins and such and off I went again couple thousand later had to put new soft lines on under warenty for failing on me again( I have stainless braided sitting here ready to put on when these give) and So now I'm at 275 they were gone again same situation passenger smoked drivers had about 30 percent rotors are good and came from Canada I believe they may be Wagner (Rob put them on for me because I was in a leg cast at the time ) I now have a set of Monroe pads also made in Canada from the local Bumper to Bumper parts store and have installed them with out doing anything else I did also rebuild the rears after 275,000 for the first time I now have one tone brakes in the back for the most part I already made some other tweeks to the proportioning valve as well as wheel cylinders were replaced a while ago but I redid them again for cheap insurance I guess my questions are does anybody know how to bleed brakes without the scan tool and second off I dont consider this wear normal and am curious as to what you guys are getting and i bet its far better than my results and also were else to look for a problem As always thanks a bunch guys and gals (not sure if there on here but there are plenty of em drivin Cummins around town) the help and pointers are always appreciated

Nicely done caj hope mine gets that far closin in on 300,000 not to hijack but dorkweed I think i've seen you running around the LAKE COUNTRY AREA if its the same white 3rd gen i will say nice truck wish mine looked that good and are you refering to sothern wisconsin or the one just over the border in Illinois I only ask because between those two states theres 4 or more lake country areas and way to much money that should be shared.

Thanks Wild and Free for that information I just got back from trailering a boat 100 miles to storage and now the spedo is never right I plan to look at the sensor again but would you think the problem is not actually the rear diff? considering when the light is off the rwal always kicked on no matter what even if the tires werent sliping and that was right after I cleaned the sensor...

sensor was clean a couple of days ago and after checing all the wires and computer my only thought was wiring harness till yesterday after I was pulling a 20ft enclosed trailer I decided to look at the sensor again and sure enough little pieces of metal stuck to the sensor. cleaned it put it back in then I could get up to 40-50 before my light would kick on same as what it was doing the day I changed it. was the sensor clean a cpl days later after I replaced it because I cleaned out and changed the diff fluid? now comes the million dollar question if it is the rear end does anyone know wher I could find a good used dana 80 to put in place of that 70 and if not does the 70 require a press or spreader to rebuild? Im pretty sure its just the power lock thats taking a dive... Thanks in advance any thoughts help or comments are always greatly apprechiated

Sensor is clean and clear and appears to be in perfect working order... Any ideas? thanks much in advance all the help is always greatly apprechiated

The old one came out in pieces so I honestly cant say though I will take the new one out tomorow and examine it because I had to drill part of it out I had the diff cover off a cpl days ago and for 280,000 I'd say you cant ask for much more from a rear end with that kinda usage good even wear on the ring gear and everything is nice tight and noise free on the flip side this is the second time I changed the oil this year soley because I do it every spring as well as tranny and tcase now everytime I've changed for the past two years it still has that gold color though a little blacker understandably no weird smells and my magnets are relativly clean(fyi its a "no slip" or limited slip option rear end) dk exactly how it works but this spring for the first time it was solid black and a little thick also the magnet had metal shavings and 3 solid chunks of metal that were a lil smaller than a piece of pea gravel kinda got freaked out pulled the diff out and kinda went through it and found no damage on the pinion or ring gear or tone ring the bearing looked good and the rear end speced out there is a clutch pak in there that is part of my spiders that looked worn but usable and the spiders appeared good so I put her back in and wen I had the cover off a cpl days ago the fluid looked brand new and the end wore in well btw I did use gear marking paint to make sure the contact patch was right so I'm not positive but I'd say its not the rear end I will post in the morning as to the condition of the new sensor. Thanks a bunch for all the help that you have provided to this point it is greatly apprechiated

Thanks much for the help guys and wild and free Im sorry but I dont have front wheel sensors since I only have rear abs and so far all is pointing at the C.A.B. controller thanks much its greatly apprechiated and if you got any tips let me know because it now looks like this two digit repair just turned to a tripple digit repair or more

Thanks much for staigtening that out so I got a bad new rear wheel sensor? and I only have rwal on my truck so I only have that one sensor on the pumpkin that I replaced.Now if you correct the problem it will go off automaticly correct? what is the best way to test that sensor or possibly the cab because the output shaft sensor(sensor I was looking for and wondering about) which is only in 4 speed autos goes straight to the pcm according to wiring diagrams so that shouldnt even throw the abs light correct? I hope its not another comp prob who needs abs anyway

Preempted sorry if this is in the wrong place but my truck has stumped me a little bit of history they came on about three days ago and it has no codes and it just randomly on my way home the abs and park brake light came on and the spedo bounced from actual road speed down ten to twenty mph then back up then down so on and so forth the problem isnt as noticable under thirty and its off until the truck gets on the road I have reset the computer by removing the negative cables then replaced them an hour later no luck so I removed them again and replaced the rear wheel speed sensor hooked up the cables and still no luck.the reason I put this hear is because for our trucks i can by a sensor that goes into the transmission from the parts store meaning ther is two sensor but my chrysler corporation repair manual says I only have one thought and ideas? if ther is no sensor in the tranny then its down to faulty new sensor, wiring or abs computer (most likey) but pcm could still be at fault just a FYI each time the batterys were disconected and reconected I checked for codes a total of three times and have received nothing

The good cops need to be commended and its unfortunate there are people like this out ther that give them a bad name but remember thers always a good one now I just hope I win my case against the town who hear thinks you can ride someones for two miles and pull them over for doing five over the limit btw it was at night and he had his high beams on the entire time, they havnt produced a video over the past month and a half and in two weeks if they fail to produce for the day of pretrials the arrest and charges get tossed I say anyone who sees a cop breaking the rules that they are ther to enforce report them there are agencies that handle it wI know WIS. D.O.T issues a two hundred some odd dollar fine to cops working on the interstate with out there reflective suit on after sundown so do us a favor and stand up for your rights and point the finger when neccesary my

sorry for the delay I just started a new company and I have been running ragged for a few months now but back to the discussion he is using ams 5w-30 and a napa gold brand filter, oil changed once a year filter every 2500 miles thinking back on it now for awhile ther the dodge techs about 4 or 5 years ago now had him running 10w-30 mopar brand diesel oil claiming ther was a benifit after finding it was out of range viscosity wise for winter he went to ams aafter seeing me using it in everything from powersports to cars byond the point he did run that oil for one winter and I am wondering if ther is an issue therealso not trying to hyjack my own thread but if ther is anyone familar with a 1999 ram 1500 gas 5.9 2wd I have the weirdest idleing issue and there are no codes and unless you touch the gas it dies thought is fuel starvation weird thing is one of my scanners wolnt talk to the computer but the other will :ahhh:its an associates car so I dont care to much but I dont need a call at 7:00 am saying come pick me up my truck died

Correct me if im wrong but I do believe you guys are both 24 valves with auto not to be preachy or nething but its simple if you've got good pressure to the vp your lift is good I dont know a way to test the vp44 directly other than live feeds an error codes so say that is good then its one of five basic things computer, wiring, cam, crank and apps sensor the apps sensor went on my truck and it was failing for six months untill it went completly belly up I could drive it but I had no error code untill it went completly south of the border it would surge die and do all sorts of goofy things no I have also replaced my crank sensor this on my truck seemed rather touchy I had an error code before it went bad and didnt go away till I put a new one in and cleaned the connection then cleared it now wenever I clean my truck if I get water down by that sensor its the only one that would trow a code clear let it dry and it'd be gone so no error codes I would look for loose connections try to get someone to get you live field unless you can do it yourself then check apps and cam sensor if i was close to you I'd bet you a beer that surging and unexplained stuff in a computer cotroled truck is computer related wether it be one of those five things and anyone could be bad and the truck may still drive just a thought and my hope it helps and I cant guarantee nething it but its a good place to start

suprising I thought they were rather stiff but i can see were it flexing could be common occurance esspecially when I haul our jobsite trailer that is about 8k and we leave that on new construction sites and lets just say there isnt a road yet so we go through ditch fields you name it and the last thing I thought about was how much damage you can do by driving your truck up a 70 degree ditch enbankment owell we learn from our mistakes mopar wants over 300 for the crossmember if anyone elses gives up the ghost I will be reproducing one from aluminum for like 150 depending on type of aluminum, a metal fabricator says aluminum flexes more assuming you get the right type... off to find out more about aluminum thanks a bunch. btw I've got a fuell pressure guage on the way thanks a bunch guys the thoughts are always apprechiated

They did not change them to my knowledge but I will check today thanks much it is kinda concerning to me because I cant find any visual problem and even after checking the suspension over i couldnt seem to find an answer but I will most definatly jack it up and try to flex my tire I have concluded it is drivers front tire making the noise if it is in the suspension. any thoughts on how you can crack that flimsy little crossmember Im suprised with any force that the thing would stay in ther and not just get peeled off like a pop top thanks much and as always thoughts are always apprechiated

Thanks a bunch for the info I think I might save the extra 50 bucks and go eletric just because im a chicken and i dont need antifreeze or nething in my cab I got enough problems as is another random question the front suspension was completly rebuilt last week half of which was covered with the Moog lifetime stuf that failed and the other half i had to pay for and not I've got a pop that I hear when going from off pavement to on pavement and when i hit good bumps the suspension checked out fine I was back ther with the guys and they sponsor and work on race vehicles so they know ther stuff and I trust them we did find a crossmember that crosses the front of the gas tank had one screw snapped in half and the member was cracked in the center its a real flimsy thing and it goes frame rail to frame rail and appears to be attached with four bolts I dont think this is the problem but they speculated ther is flexing going on in the frame and ther may be a crack somewhere any thoughts would be much apprechiated I have looked and found nothing but that messed up crossmember

thanks a bunch thats reassuring I just need to find a place that actually has them lol for less than a hundo for just the guage no wires or tubing kit. --- Update to the previous post... Found a decent website for dipricol guage ordering one on monday from http://www.hollandcourtsales.com/Gauges.htm unless yall got a better idea his 140 dollar kit has an isolater in it that I didnt really want but I'll make it work lol let me know if you guys got any other suggestions they are always greatly appreichiated

rburks investigate the apps sensor that is to the t what mine was doing last year a bad input to the computer can do anything to a truck and not just a dead pedal ther is no throttle plate just wires anything could happen I would suggest you start ther just my two cents

I know this has been asked before prolly more than once I need a fuel pressure guage and I want it to be accurate but would like to keep just the fuel pressure guage cost less than 150 because I still would like to have some reserve for a new fuel pump if needed now the interesting thing is when ever I check pressure overnite here at hom its always at twelve and stays there engine off and its been that way since i got it I have removed the pump and wrapped it to the best of my abbity with header wrap and I would say I'm yet to have a problem after puting 150,000 on this pump I am starting to get concerned and yes the truck is pretty much so stock just home grown mods to improve chassis stiffness and brakeing upgrades at least she stops like a sports car any suggestions for where to buy and if I replace my pump I plan to go with a Holley pump that I piece a kit together soley for the fact that myself my father and his father can all speak for Holley considering they ran a drag team and wenever a pump went bad a Holley rep came out to see what was up and it apears cheaper and yes I accept Air dog as being a succesful upgrade I just cant justify cost if you get the filters and all if you know what I mean and yes I pull trailers and work the piss out of my baby but I dont plan on haveing a 400 hp rig just a mild mannered 300ish hp rig based on needs for pulling power it looses speed on nething greater than 6percent for over a mile with 8k behind her thats a fix for after the tranny bill:banghead: still considering a nv4500 so neone that knows of a parts truck I've got the cash and you ought to be able to do it for 2500-3000 with a s/b clutch and comp reflash and a month in the shop versus 7k and a trip to iowa for for a built auto what do you guys think any and all help and info is greatly appreichiated

hard saying that could be the case in my instance mine pushed me and my truck into a spin becuz I dont use trailer brakes they never work right and it pushed my hitch over and the best way to check it is take a straight edge about eighteen inches long and place it along the side of the hitch plate that goes up to the frame check inside outside and then side to side if you follow one end should be on the frame and one on the hitch then take a square and check your frame I just saw ur picture on the last page your frame tabs look tweeked I had to tweak one of mine back just a bit and back there is the one place dodge should have boxed but they didnt so if you got a welder and some 1/8inch plate box that boy up mine is and just so you know I dont mind haveing a stock truck thats got a good base(chasis) and needs more power for towing but that power dont meen nothing if you cant keep ur truck together and I dont care what your truck is if you play around towing the limit of your truck on a frequent basis you ought to do chassis upgrades my :2cents:I have personaly watched a guys rip bumpers off and destroy hitchs trying to recover larger trucks and its all because the guy has big tires and a modded truck stupid ford boy his hitch was left dangling after the town plow truck got done dealing with him I believe it totaled the truck hope this helps some

Nice looking truck I wish mine looked that good :lmao:six deer will do that to a front end though I may get the guts to actually put a picture of it up here but I think it would win the ugliest truck contest for now cou body is slowly making it back got the doors done and used POR15 and some glazing putty in the large pits and it worked like it should when used properly it will not aid in filling small perforations I found that out two weeks after I got her done that the rust on one read door came back which was where I had little tiny pin holes otherwise POR15 has my vote if you wanna cover mild surface rust and as for your trailer issue I have two questions have you owned it since new? and have you yourself ever jacknifed a trailer? If you have owned it since new and you have jacknifed its just one of Dodges few and far between quarks just like I know 15 people who own a Dodge Ram that I have seen in person and not one of the tailgates is off center but mine is so me and the body man drilled out the mounts and moved it over. just for your information I jacknifed a 16 foot dump trailer on black ice two years ago and it destroyed my bed, rear bumper and did my trailer hitch in it was pushed on an angle out to the side but wasnt to noticeable but once you got under there you could tell it was pushedover and my frame did not get tweeked because the holes on the receiver were elongated to ensure proper positioning of the hitch hope this helps and I hope I can get my truck looking that good soon

Its not that big of a deal not really being able to rebuild it since its is working as it should atm my only concern was that there are so many different comps out there for our rigs that I wanted to get the right one and one that would agree with you when you put vehicle information into the scanner since some comps know the vin year engine and trans in your truck I was worried about putting a 2001 in there (which I did) that when I looked up vehicle info and live feeds it wouldnt be right but so far so good thanks a bunch for that tid bit of info always proves useful

computer SOL new used one out of a totaled truck made it work now the trucks back in commission tho I wonder is ther a way of rebuilding this computers or have it sent somewher tho have it done?