notlimah
Unpaid Member
-
Joined
-
Last visited
Everything posted by notlimah
-
I think if anything I'd talk to fass and see what they say. I bet you could convince them that they need to send you a new relay! -
Yea sounds like your having the same issue as I was. I bet if you parked up a steeper hill it would happen sooner.
-
Good stuff Mike! Ive always thought we should have a thread dedicated to this sorta stuff. Like someone finds a smokin deal on a part or has a good discount code people could use.
-
If that's 188k out of a stock VP I'd say you definitely got your money's worth!! Some people have had theirs replaced at 5k!! The reliability of the VP44 has gone up tremendously. A lot of that is the knowledge of proper fuel pressure, and a lot has to do with using better/stronger materials in newer pumps. If I were you I'd run your current pump until it's dead. No point in throwing 1200 bucks at something that's not broke! I WOULD however invest in a good aftermarket lift pump from FASS or Airdog or Fuel boss if you want all mechanical. Next I'd at minimum a fuel pressure gauge and make sure your over 14psi at all times with occasional trips to 10psi being ok. Hopefully doing that will stretch the legs of your VP a little longer. If it does quit check our vendors section out on the site. Vulcan performance and DAP are two great resources for pumps both injection and lift. I'm not too savvy on all things injectors but yes spray patterns can degrade, someone else will have to fill you in on the more technical reasons why. Injector size depends largely on how much fuel you're moving and how much air you're pushing. Stock turbo and no tuner, most would recommend either brand new stock sticks or some rv275's. Sorry that post got a little lengthy! Hope it helps
-
So part of the paperwork the rental company had me fill out was a paper stating, from my insurance, that I was covered from bumper to bumper trailer included. Thanks for bringing that up though because if it weren't for that, I never would've thought to check, would've just assumed it was covered. Especially after how much they charge me a month!!
-
I think before I went and started pointing fingers at the ECM, I'd check/replace that relay and see if maybe that's the problem. When you say every other key on do you mean like first start up of the day and it's fine, then next start up there's issues then after that problems again? What fuel pressures are you seeing? What's your fuel level when the pump won't prime? Is the same delayed start more pronounced parked nose uphill? Better pointed down hill? Your truck should start fine even without that prime. Mine seems to not do the 1-2sec *brrpp* prime when my fuels 1/4 and below but still always starts right up. I put a full tank of fuel in and it primes again.
-
I appreciate the advice guys! If this were my trailer I'd likely use a combination of both of yours advice! I don't mind towing a little faster (65-70mph) but since this ISN'T my trailer, I'll air on the side of caution. I do agree with you both though. I think the trailers GVWR is 5500 so what tire pressure should I somewhat expect? Or do I need tire specs before I can get all that info?
-
It really depends on who you ask but I'd say right now that generally FASS is considered the more reliable pump. Although Airdog does seem to have worked through most of the issues that plagued them 3-5 years back. FWIW I went FASS and don't regret it!
-
Yea he mentioned earlier he was running the CIPA brand. They sell them at Geno's. I preferred replacing the whole mirror rather then the clip on type.
-
From what I understand no, but allegedly 1aauto is working on getting the mirrors with power fold and those puddle lights in the future.
-
In my experience outside or coolant temp didn't make things better or worse in starting. The fuel Tee never appeared or felt wet. I suppose the rubber could expand or contract due to hot or cold but no way to really tell. Chasing these fuel leaks especially in the return lines is really difficult. Is your problem only showing up when your trucks pointed nose up hill for a few hours or more? Or does it happen no matter which direction your truck is pointed?
-
That was my plan Mike. I'm not a big fan of towing at speeds I'd typically only do when empty so 55-60 would be the max speed I'd tow. The trailer is dual axle so that's nice as well.
-
Ok holding tanks! That's what I was trying to say in my last post! So basically I'm ok to fill those up prior to leaving for our trip? And I will definitely pour some water down the toilet prior to use just to make sure there's extra fluid in there to prevent buildups. Check! What else you guys got?! This is awesome stuff!
-
I think for just bumping the starter that looks about right. Without the motor running I wouldn't imagine much (if any) fuel coming out of the return line (clear). The blue looks like a decent amount again for just bumping it and we're talking return fuel FROM the Airdog right? So it should be a ton of fuel, at least not as much as it would be when un-hooking the supply line at the VP. Try starting it for a sec and see how it looks then.
-
Ok so dump your black water first, then gray water, check! Question with that though, were only going out for a few nights, although we will be dry camping the whole time. I'm not sure we'll even get the tanks 3/4's full. Is that going to be a problem when dumping? Do you guys typically fill up your gray water tank prior to your destination? I.e. fill at home or close to it then tow with full or close to full gray water tanks?
-
I suppose I should've mentioned that the trailers come fully stocked with everything you'd need, from plates, pots, pans, to everything you need to clean the trailer up before you return it. I guess some things I was thinking about were things you wish you knew when you started RVing that you know now? Like I have no idea how to clear out black and gray water tanks or even fill them!? Any tips on getting the trailer level once we have our spot? The trailer comes with two big propane tanks and I'll have a small generator with us as well.
-
Hey guys. My wife and I have found a great local company that rents 2015 travel trailers so instead of buying we will most likely rent for our travel/camping adventures. Although I've towed plenty before, I've never towed a travel trailer and with that, not entirely sure of neccesary things I should bring. For you more salty travel trailer guys, what are things you can't leave without when towing? Any sort of check list or things you've found helpful in the beginning of your towing days to stay organized and bring what was needed? I try to be as prepared as possible, especially with the family involved, so I look forward to all of your insight!
-
This article is being put together to help walk you through the fairly simple steps of replacing the grommets at the fuel return t and the washers on the banjo bolt at the back of the head. Symptoms that lead me to start changing these parts were... -Hard starts with the nose of the truck pointed up hill after 4+ hours -Loss of prime -Longer cranking of the engine -Point nose down hill the truck would fire up no problems. Starting with the T on the fuel return lines. The easiest way to locate this T is to find your return banjo on the VP44 (looking down at it, it's the one of the left) and follow that hard line towards the back of the engine. Eventually you will find a brass T with one line coming down from the back of the head (we'll cover that later) and another line going down towards to the fuel tank. You can use the Part number lookup tool to find the Part Numbers The following diagrams might help as well. Part #3 in this diagram Part #29 from this diagram. You'll be replacing the grommets that are #32 in this diagram. It'll look like this You'll need a 16mm wrench to get the caps off. It's easiest to get all 3 loose to the point where you can unscrew them by hand, that way you avoid the T from spinning. Once off, you can twist the T to let the fuel lines slide out. The end of the fuel lines will have a belled or flared end, like a trumpet or other brass instrument. It will look like this once out. Old grommets on top, new on bottoms. One thing of note here, the old grommets didn't look that bad. If I wasn't having fuel issues I don't think I would've changed them so keep that in mind. At the time of this article the cheapest I could find these grommets was from Geno's located HERE part #3905351 From here it'd be a good idea to clean things up a bit with a scotch bright pad or something similar. I cleaned the fuel T and the fuel lines. I sprayed the fuel T with brake cleaner and then dried it off with compressed air. Re-assembly is the same as taking it apart. Just get the nuts on there loosely at first until all 3 nuts are on the fuel T and then tighten them down equally as you'll see once things get tighter the fuel T will want to move. Tighten the nuts down so they are firmly snug, but not over tightened. Otherwise the nut will just keep compressing the grommet to the point it's ineffective. It helped me to disconnect the oil dipstick and other connectors that are in the area to free up room for wrench operation. **************************************************************************************** Next, the washers on the banjo bolt at the back of the head are also culprits which can cause hard starts and loss of prime and if you're experiencing the issues stated before, you might as well replace them. In this diagram the banjo you want it #2 and the washers you'll replace are #4  which are the same even though listed differently. **Obviously with a cold engine** The best way to tackle this job is to get some thick moving blankets and lay them on top of the engine bay and get ready to crawl! While laying on top of the engine, reach around the back of the engine on the left side. You'll be looking (read:feeling) for this. Using a 17mm wrench you can get the banjo off. Remember that righty tighty lefty loosey will be backwards in this instance! You don't want to snap off the banjo in the head!! Once out, clean up things to help with re-installation. Here is the banjo removed with old washers on the left and new on the right. I got the washers from my local dodge dealership part #05016555AB but you can also get them from Genos HERE Replacement is straight forward. Just make sure that you get banjo washers on both ends of the banjo. Like this With final installation make sure that you get the banjo bolt tight, but again DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN! The bolts are somewhat fragile and could/will snap off if tightened too much.
- 1 comment
- 4 reviews
-
-
- 4
-
-
The battery cables themselves should be pretty stout. The bigger issue to deal with when replacing connector ends is getting them attached to the cable. From what I've read with wire around the 2/0 size, at least a 12 ton hydraulic press is what you'd need to get good connection on those wires. Now thats not to say soldering or crimping and soldering wouldn't work, but it's up to the individual at that point as to what they're comfortable with. Also, if you plan to cut and add a new connector be mindful of the length/slack of whatever wire you're doing as some have a lot of extra room and others don't.
-
Glad you got things straightened out!
-
Yea I can do an Article Mike. I would've taken a few more pics had I known though!
-
******************************************************************************************************************** !!PROBLEMS FIXED!! ******************************************************************************************************************** Well guys, it turns out it was indeed the 3 grommets that are at the fuel T causing my issue. I changed those out 3 days ago and parked it nose up hill in my driveway like I'd done in the past and what caused the hard start and let it sit for 15+ hours each time and every time she fired up almost instantly! Really happy to finally have this over with and I really hope this thread can save some people the headache of figuring out what's wrong with their trucks if they have similar issues in the future. Some interesting things of note though... If you remember earlier in this thread I was talking about not hearing the lift pump (FASS 150) do it's typical *brrrppp* once you turn the key and are waiting for the WTS light to go out. Normally that was with me parked nose down hill, but I thought maybe it was just because I still had my fuel leak. Well after replacing the grommets I was parking nose up hill again to test if my fuel leak was gone and the first 2 mornings, the truck would fire right up, but every time I'd turn the key on and expect the lift pump *brrrppp* It wouldn't happen. No fuel pressure bump either. So I started recalling back what was different before and realized that I was just above a 1/4 tank of fuel. Well after 2 days of starting up just fine while pointed up hill but with no fuel pressure bump I filled up my tank. Sure enough, go to start, turn key on, lift pump *brrrppp* see a fuel pressure bump and fires right up! Next day pointed nose up hill, same thing! Maybe this is just something my truck does but it seems to not want to do that when my fuel is below a certain level. Anyways, thanks to everyone who's helped me trouble shoot this issue! Really glad it's over with!
-
Yea loose connections in regards to batteries can cause all sorts of weird things. Just last week a guy I work with has an old ford gasser and he said it was driving and shifting really weird on the way into work and the radio would randomly come on, all sorts of things! Well come to find out it was just a really loose battery terminal. Once he tightened it down it ran like a top! That's another reason I upgraded all of my battery cables and connectors to the military style so I knew the cables were in good condition and the connectors would stay super tight.
-
Sweeeeeet! Never thought I'd be so excited about mirrors haha!
-
Yup! I have both switches for power and heat so should just be plug and play right?