Vais01

I currently am working with a manufacturer to have an additional BHAF filter option. This filter uses Donaldson's Powercore technology and has a capable flow rate of 1300 CFM while filtering the air down to a micron rating substantially better than stock. I am currently in process doing heat soak and IAT temp checks and EGT checks at WOT runs, cruising, part throttle acceleration and transient boost speed from cruising to passing acceleration. Next tank of diesel will be a fuel economy test to see if any improvement exists. I will do my best to keep everyone up to speed.

Any update to the new software adjustments?

This is 100% correct I just tried to dumb it down a bit.

I think I will add my 2 cents to this. Cold air intakes do absolutely nothing. As you drive down the road the underhood temperature is higher than the ambient air temperature and our airbox on the 2nd generation trucks is in the furthest rear position nearest to the turbo. The heated air is not just from the abient air, underhood temperatures but also from heat soak. As you drive and create boost the hot side charge air pipe already heated up due to boost air will also warm up due to heat soak during low boost driving conditions. Without eliminating this heat soak you accomplish almost nothing. Your incoming air is also on the hot side and the rubber and plastics used for the air box absorb heat. This heat is usually 5 to 25 degrees hotter than ambient temperature at road speed. As Mr. Mike has said the efficiency and cooling capacity of the aftercooler is what will help you the most. The aftercooler is built for the trucks OE configuration and sized just barely larger so the air has enough time to sit in the aftercooler to be adequately cooled. You guys running larger turbochargers should also get larger aftercoolers to get the best cooling performance out of the charge air cooler. After that we have the cold side pipe which connects the aftercooler to the intake and even if the aftercooler has dropped the temperature to 100 degrees the air must pass through a heat soaked steel or aluminum pipe to transfer the air from the aftercooler to the intake. The temp may climb 5 to 15 degrees in this pipe. Once the air has entered the intake (OE intake not aftermarket) their is a small point of restriction where the air must speed up to enter the intake plenum. This does not produce additional heat but the back pressure on the rest of the system can but typically is minor 2 to 3 degrees. Once the air has entered the intake plenum it heats up again because the plenum is also the head. This is a good thing as we all know diesels have a hard time starting in cold temperature hence why we have grid heaters on our trucks. Some of you will ask why have you not mentioned the grid heater element as s point of restriction. The reason is actually because the grid heater restriction is absolutely minimal and also because the grid heater helps correct the turbulent airflow after the restriction point in the intake. Now food for thought gentlemen, the IAT is mounted to the head at the rear of the plenum for a good reason, it's hotter there. This measures the air temp at its highest and adjusts the fueling accordingly. If you took the temperature in the intake prior to the plenum or grid heater you can see a 10 to 20 degree difference depending on your ambient temperature and your road speed. I monitor an air temperature sensor that is in the air intake and see a typical 5 to 10 degree (cooler) difference during highway cruising speed. I also have used aftermarket air boxes that use forced air (ram air from an external hood scoop) and saw minor differences in temperature. As of now the hood scoop is over the factory air box providing cooler air in that region helping prevent heat soak. Heat does effect performance but with diesel engines it is not nearly as big an issue as gasoline engines. Just a quick FYI the factory air box is a cold air system. It draws cool air from the wheel well between the fenders while cold air kits normally have an opening drawing hot or heated air from the engine bay.

I agree the P7100 is great if done right but as you said it has to be done right. This is not cheap and is a chore to do. A well built and we'll fed VP44 will last for a long time.

Doc I would go this route if I could keep the check engine light off.

Looks like my Ranch Hand bull nose.

Hey we can all get a laugh.

This is true but not many understand flow and chokes(variable/fixed orifice restrictions). There is a very minor nearly non-existent change in our case due to volume and line differences. The gerotor pump is a positive displacement pump that has a percentage of loss under a specific amount of pressure. Also an additional little bit of loss through the filters and fittings. Fluids are non-compressible and that key means 2.5 GPM must find its way somewhere or something will fail. In your example 10,000GPM will either wipe out the .150" orifice or create an extreme amount of heat through the orifice then as the fluid passes through the opposite side velocity will be reduced. You never mentioned if that was from a free flowing well or pumped.

Pressure is set for us 14 PSI through the over flow valve(also a pressure safety device) but it is not pressure that moves the fuel through the orifice it is flow. Flow is speed, pressure is the result of doing work (also flow restrictions). Fluid velocity is near 110 FPS when the fuel pushes through the .150" orifice which will create a tremendous amount of heat. Then the next thing blows peoples minds the sudden reduction of fluid velocity actually begins cooling due to expansion(in the case of fluid the sudden reduction of fluid velocity). The banjo fitting is hot along with the case near the outlet for the overflow valve threads into but the hose will show temperature reduction within 3 inches of the banjo fitting. The whole time flow has not changed it will still be constant 2.5 GPM but fluid velocity will be reduced down to 3 FPS if your return line is .5 internal diameter or near 8 FPS if your return line is .375 internal diameter. Hydraulic principles...Not going to say what other neat things I have also learned over the years.

As far as turbos go an HY35W is too small for all this without the possibility of lifting the head from high drive pressures. Also an HY35W does not have enough flow to keep up with the fuel demands of anything over the RV275's. Do you plan on working the truck? (towing heavy or light)

Doc give me a ring if you need a hand sourcing parts.

What are your power goals?

Well family is more important. I have a little hydraulic background so I am aware of quite a few things in the fuel system that are easily corrected. Hopefully Yankneck696 will one day give us all an update.

Correct the VP 44 is cooled by fuel and the electronics are attached to the VP44 at the top regardless of how you see it heat rises so the computer is vulnerable. Keeping the overflow valve open on the VP44 with 14 PSI of pressure helps remove the heat but when your 150GPH pump cycles the fuel in the tank at a rate of 32 gallons every 12.8 mins the fuel at lower tank levels never sits long enough in the tank to cool off. Once at half a tank of diesel the pump can cycle 16 gallons in 6.4 mins this is where I have noticed temps to pick up. At a quarter tank(8 gallons) the lift pump will cycle the tank every 3 mins temps climb even further. This is why I brought up a cooler. If the VP44 case is even 10-20 degrees cooler this will help overall component longevity from the mechanical internals, to the electronics package bolted to and above the VP44. Fuel cooling is not the end all fix all but the big 3 have begun adding coolers to help alleviate this problem which is even worse for them due to HPCR systems pushing 21-29 KSI and line velocities even higher than 20 FPS. Another thing to consider is fuel return on the head is always hot and near engine coolant temp which over time heats up the fuel in the tank.

That could show promise. Remember TPS remains stable but as load and road speed increases the turbo needs to react accordingly. At idle 8-9cm, at max engine load accelerating hard it should remain that way until boost values increase to approximately 15 psi at that point the vanes should begin shifting to the 14cm position. The transition should be smooth and nearly linear. Part throttle acceleration is a little more difficult, you should use the same starting point but the vanes may only open up to 12cm to keep transient boost up. The VGT on our trucks should put out roughly 5-7 psi of boost at cruising speed. I say 5 is best but your truck may like a few PSI more.

This is the exact same results I had. It yielded me the best economy. If you could tighten the turbo to 12cm you will see a reduction of EGT of 100 drgrees. With my turbo and current truck configuration I see 800-900 degrees. With the HE351VE I used to see 1000 to 900 degrees on a large and rather steep bridge. This is the peak temperature after the EGT stabilized.

You are correct and also incorrect. A properly sized cooler can drop the temperature up to 20 degrees this is sufficient for the end goal. The issue is velocity through the cooler must be very low and must remain in the cooler for enough time to properly remove the heat. It is possible but the cooler line size would be fairly large nearing 1 inch. This becomes cost prohibited and may consume too much space. A stacked plate cooler will work but again size can be an issue.

I haven't used their injectors or know anyone with any long term experience with them. Not saying anything bad just have no knowledge or experience with them.

During a shift the TPS remains the same but the Load % changes. If you integrated VGT tuning within something such as a Quadzilla the turbo vanes would have to change percentage of closure accordingly. It would be the only way to seamlessly integrate the VGT with the early 24 valve trucks. The cost for such a product would be pretty high.

Just from experience a 14cm from a dead stop and accelerating with about 30% load will have boost pressure until the transmission locks the converter around 50 mph at that point all boost is lost and the engine lugs due to a no boost situation. What I had done on my Fleece controller was create a tiny hump in the map so when the truck shifted into overdrive and the converter locked the boost pressure would stay constant.

As do I but normally I start researching tires once every few years just to keep up to speed and know what my next tire will be.

Original injectors are VCO.

It would only cause other issues with the suspension and driveline. Yes those tires have a very high rolling resistance that is a big reason to loose MPG. I run Goodyear Wrangler All Terrain Adventure tires great on the road and great for gravel and oil field lease roads.

I'm guessing your a 4x4? What tire are you running? Brand and model? I don't think your going to benefit that much from squatting the truck.