Vais01

It's braided hose all the way. Don't honestly remember the size. They look like -8 in some places and others -6.

Also that is where I get alot of my information about airflow into the engine. This is why I have so much data on my current BHAF VS stock filter box. Although my box had been modified since the biggest point of restriction is the tiny inlet. The OE filter is capable of 480 CFM

Correct. I just use them to compare values in my other probe in the air intake aka the air horn.

I have an aftermarket probe in the intake manifold aka the air horn. I agree bad sensor location for sure.

Well gents. Small update the dash is rolled down for now until tomorrow afternoon. 3 of the 4 polymer nuts are not holding tension and one has split. These are the nuts on the upper dash and snap into the firewall. Going to go and add a bit of sound deadening there also as well as behind both A pillars. I will also be sealing up an opening at the firewall where the heater core tubes pass through also. Seems the foam is a bit loose fitting there. I think a dab of silicone should do the trick. I will be giving yall a heads up tomorrow on my results. Hopefully no more squeaking.

It does have a unique aroma although it dies down after 1500 miles. T6 has no such smell.

It seems the design of our engines is more of a factor with IAT temps being so high. I monitor IAT values but also intake temps. The intake temps are definitely lower at all times compared to the temp in the air plenum. In some cases 10 degrees other cases 40 degrees more in the plenum VS what the intake temps are.

What are your valve lash adjustment values? If your tight on your intake you will have a longer overlap duration. Tight on both intake and exhaust will equal an earlier overlap.

I'm aware of the vacuum necessary to draw down the gauge it even states inches of water. I do not use inches of mercury for anything not even testing requiring it. I just convert the values and go from there. I am betting it is sticking or the reset valve is tripping due to engine vibration.

CI-4 then shortly after that was CI-4 plus these oils were developed for 500 PPM of sulfur and no biodiesel in the fuels. CI-4 plus was made for long drain times. CJ-4 works just as well in the lubricating aspects of oil with added benefits. You won't go wrong by switching oils. Also Ram trucks currently recommend Rotella oils and several local Ford dealers also recommend Rotella oils(even though Ford has their own brand). I have had great results with CJ-4 Rotella T6 and going 10,000 miles before changing the oil. I may try for 15,000 miles on the next oil change after a 10,000 mile oil sample analysis.

Yet another name for the overhead I have not yet heard of. Funny how some modern trucks have this figured out and it is fairly accurate.

Functions fine using the mouth test method I have also used a hose and a vacuum pump and it works but on the factory airbox it does not operate properly. I have yet to figure out why it does not operate correctly so I have resorted to having a look at every 5,000 miles or every oil change at 10,000 miles.

CJ-4 oils are actually an improvement. They have higher levels of oxidation stability, can't tolerate much higher oil temps, less prone to foaming and is designed to handle biodiesel in our fuels. I am still researching the next generation of oils for Diesel engines and so far even more improvements on the reverse compatible oils.

Agree. I would go into a factory turbo with a genuine Holset rebuild (Cummins RECON parts). I would rather spend the extra coin knowing I have an authentic build and not a Chinese copy.

I have little faith in the filter minders. I have had one stay in it position on the factory airbox and the filter was beginning to deform due to being plugged and the turbo trying to suck in air. Checked the filter minder it functioned correctly while bench testing. Don't know why it wasn't working in the truck but passes bench testing. I see larger temperature swings on my truck but I also have additional instruments prior to the intake plenum. The plenum really will heat up the air. I'm sure this is what helps keep the temperature where it should be to provide optimal performance.

Marine oil is CI-4 but is only recommend with non biodiesel blends.

There are a few oils out there claiming API CJ-4 (non brand name) that are not CJ-4 rated oils or even 15W-40. I say this only to say one thing. Use a reputable oil company's oil so if anything happens you can be almost 100% sure it's not your choice of oil that caused the failure. Rotella 15W-40 has roughly 1220 PPM of zinc. Rotella T6 averages just a bit higher in the 1300 PPM of zinc. Private testing averages are where I drew those values.

Valair also has a similar clutch and it too is a bit noisy. I have heard they have something that helps but don't, quote me on that.

I have upgraded cooler lines on AN fittings and 2 additional coolers. They help keep the temps down.

From what I am reading do a good solid rebuild order a Goerend valve body with GM solenoid upgrades. I'd say a 1500 RPM stall converter triple disk converter to handle the extra power. Also you will need billet shafts if your planning on keeping this thing together while towing heavy. Call Goerend Transmission they can line you out and I am willing to bet they tell you something very similar.

Little bit warm there in Idaho. We are about 68 degrees tonight. What is your boost level at 65? 5-7 PSI? it could be the turbo working harder than it should at that particular RPM, load, etc. Making the turbo work easier by allowing more clean air to make it to the compressor could bring IAT temps down. Only one way to find out.

The way I figure it, is its a cheap investment for an engine that costs 10k to rebuild. That goes for either the BHAF or the air box. I'd like the airbox for a cleaner look and better for extreme conditions.

Blue in color probably an AFE filter built for them. If it looks like the BHAF I'm running it's a Donaldson filter.

I couldn't agree more.

Depending on footage that could be a yaught. You know the best day of a boat owners life? The day they buy one and the day they sell it. Haha had to go there.