Everything posted by Vais01
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Teardown and Rebuild
Sorry to hear and see this bud. I'm just glad your in one piece.
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Injector Comparrison
Haha. Well in that case I'm lost as well. Can't think what a 1/2 inch or 13mm nut would be for.
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New CJ-4 oils in older Flat Tappet Engine
Here is some data on the oil they quoted you on. Unfortunately no zinc values or phosphorus values. https://mobildelvac.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-delvac/mobil-delvac-mx
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New CJ-4 oils in older Flat Tappet Engine
Definitely agree with the above posted info. Just an FYI my oil analysis at 5460 miles showed a TBN of 8.8 and Phosphorous PPM of 1165 and Zinc PPM of 1391. This is using Rotella T6 and a Baldwin BD7317 filter which is a 20 micron absolute and an internal 5 micron bypass. I would be using the Donaldson ELF7349 filter if I could source one locally but no one has it or is willing to order it without a case being placed on order.
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Injector Comparrison
It could be the injector puller rather than using an intake bolt.
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Injector Comparrison
I normally use a thin flat blade that will get a good bite on one of the threads and very slowly pry out with steady pressure. So far so good using this practice. I have seen some very interesting ways of pulling them including pocket knives and other edged tools. Not the smartest idea in my book.
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Teardown and Rebuild
Ouch. Well at least your in good shape. Body work fixable, humans not so easily fixable.
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Installed fuel line check valve
Who is the rebuilder for the VP44 you purchased? If your loosing prime I would look at your fuel lines. Including the fuel return at the back of the head. This particular line uses two 12mm banjo sealing washers and over the years can dry rot. The surging miss could be a loose connector tube or injector line but chances are it may be your VP44. I have a similar issue on my truck due to the VP44 being programmed for an HO truck.
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New BHAF options!
Quick update the this filter will be my BHAF of choice just due to better filtration and high air flow. IAT and intake temps are 20 degrees different from one another and roughly 25 to 30 degrees different from ambient air temps mostly due to heat soak.
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Squeaking from the middle passenger area during hard acceleration in the cab of the truck
Ok guys seems my noise was 2 parts. A: dash vibration due to plastic screw retainers broken. B: Exhaust manifold leak on numbers 5 and 6. Seems the cap screws backed out. Not sure how that happens when the cap screws are torqued to 32 ft lb. I did retorque the cap screws after giving them a fresh dab of bit of Nickel anti-seize. (Never use aluminum or copper anti-seize on disimillar metals. Ask me how I know). Anyway all is well now. Hopefully it stays that way.
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47RE build suggestions
It can be flushed while on the truck prior to disassembly. Not many do this because of added cost of labor.
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Teardown and Rebuild
I misread. I thought I read NV5600.
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Teardown and Rebuild
Not sure why I thought I read NV5600.
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Teardown and Rebuild
Looking for NV4500? My apologies.
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XRF Balljoints
Older Moog good stuff. Newer Moog not so great. Spicer is good stuff. Just remember to grease them at least twice a year or more depending on mileage and conditions. Also don't push crap into your ball joints. Wipe the grease zerk off before pumping the ball joints full. If you do push stuff in it will act like lapping compound.
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Teardown and Rebuild
I too miss read. Ceramic/ Kevlar. http://www.valairinc.com/performance/selector.html Dual disc organic for towing greater than 10,000 pounds.
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Injector Comparrison
Bosch RV275 are industrial/motor home injectors. They are made for the engine directly by Bosch. The spray pattern should be 153*. Price difference is the only difference I see. Call DAP and ask the guys they will get you set up right.
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47RE build suggestions
It wasn't the center hole that had the run out. It was run out on the axial plane so inline with the transmission. It's like looking at a bent or loose wheel on a trailer going down the road.
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New CJ-4 oils in older Flat Tappet Engine
Here you go gents. Drool away. Below is a link that shows several virgin oil samples and what in them. Now remember these oils are in batches so they can vary. These oils were pulled off the shelf and analyzed. Rotella is also the factory fill on 6.7 Cummins engines that you buy in Ram trucks and is the oil that is referred by Ram in their 2015 Diesel Truck Supplement. http://www.pqiamerica.com/June%202014/consolidated%20HDEO%202015.html
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New CJ-4 oils in older Flat Tappet Engine
I've got some oil sample data from several oil companies. Let me find the link so all of us can see it. Also Amsoil is a well known company but from what I see Rotella T6 is substantially better and more commonly available. I say that because I have seen several virgin oil samples of their products and they are not that great.
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New CJ-4 oils in older Flat Tappet Engine
If it gets black that is a good thing. It means the soot is staying suspended in the oil so when you change the oil it leaves too. A 12 valve is pretty easy on the oil as is the early 24 valve trucks so your oil should last a good while. Whatever you do run Baldwin, Fleetguard or Donaldson filters and stay away from WIX and Fram. I say Wix because I have seen good friends loose their new trucks because of Wix filters failing. Wix air filters are good but I would stay away from any other product they produce for a good while.
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New CJ-4 oils in older Flat Tappet Engine
Haha this is great screen shot saved.
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47RE build suggestions
You can clean them out. A good trans shop can do it for you. The key question is, will they. Not trying to bash any company but the OP mentioned Suncoast. I've seen too many of their flexplates with over an 1/16th inch of runout. Maybe just a bad run but who knows. This does not seem like much but 1/16th over 11 to 12 inches is alot. The converter literally walks around. Just so yall know if you already don't .0625 ten thousand of an inch is equal to 1/16th. I say this not to deter people but just be cautious. Sometimes a small thing that is overlooked can give you grief down the road.
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47RE build suggestions
No one is telling you to spend 5,000. A valve body upgrade will do what you need. If you need a rebuild your better off doing it in one go is all anyone is saying. As far as the converter just use caution a single disc converter is good for about 350-400 horsepower and around 800 ft lb of torque after that it will probably slip. Most transmission vendors will tell you to add billet here and there for the servos and I agree with them when you are doing a transmission valve body upgrade. I mentioned call Dave and his guys because they won't push you into anything. They will simply ask a hand full of questions and give you a recommendation. They are honest people.
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Teardown and Rebuild
They have a 50/50 clutch as well. I didn't know until the other night when I looked up their product line.