Vais01

3rd gen manifold has unequal length runners in a log manifold configuration and you loose that gas pulse that helps drive the charger. 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4 is the firing order. The gas pulse of 2 and 4 fight each other within the manifold. Compressor of the HE351VE and HE300VG can provide 48 PSI of boost at 80 pounds per min. Reason it is capable of doing so is it shares the compressor wheel with the HX Super 40. This is also true for the HE351CW. Cummins 6.7 or 5.9 both utilize center out manifolds in industrial applications. The 3rd gen is just for space savings.

3rd gen manifold is not very good flowing in comparison to the 2nd gen manifold. It was used to save space under the hood. Most still go from the 3rd or 4th gen manifolds to a 2nd gen manifold.

In that case what are you waiting on ?

If she runs strong keep the truck for fun. A lot more can be gotten away with on the 2nd gens than the new trucks.

I traded the truck. 4th gen now. Need to upgrade my sig. I still play around some with buddies. Learned enough about the new 6.7 Cummins to buy one.

Well after over a year I return. Glad to see you have taken this concept and turned it into a reality. I have learned so much about the HE351VE, HE300VG and it's larger and smaller brethren. If you have any questions do not hesitate to ask.

You may want to check your blend door actuator coupling. Mine is shot and it acts similar to yours and my heater core is new. Maybe you have an air bubble in the coolant system. I'd pull the cap when it's cold and idle it until hot if you have a bubble it will come up after some time. Just be sure the coolant cap is higher than the rest of the system. While your there replace the radiator cap if the pressure isn't high enough it could act funny as well.

It is specific you should be able to search it and it will give you optional filters below when you select the filter.

Sounds like a combination of weak batteries and possibly a weak alternator. I have a higher output alternator and even with the load it's not that much of a reduction in RPM.

Your welcome on the info. The Baldwin is unique but many stay away from them because they normally are on refrigeration engines. I've called Baldwin and Fleetguard as they both produce similar filters and they are both okay to use. The Baldwin is a good filter and much cheaper than the Fleetguard Venturi Flow filter plus I can get them locally for a good price. Only a small percentage of the oil goes through the bypass section. The Fleetguard works in a similar way but the bypass is a 2 micron stack of media. The Baldwin is a more conventional bypass element. The Donaldson is a great filter with very good flow ratings and it's a 15 micron absolute vs the venturi flow or bypass type that only filters a percentage of the lube oil.

That is a Walker muffler. I've heard good things about them.

Sounds fairly normal. These engines don't use the thermostats very much. The Crack open and fluctuate open and close while cruising that's usually why they fail. Your thermostat sounds nornal.

Still sounded louder than my own but that may be the 30 inch FTE

The nut should be in the same orientation but it could be off a little. Yes the exhaust seal is in the turbo's CHRA (center section). When you rebuild use the Holset manual and follow the instructions and you should be fine. Also a K&N will create that residue so I say check shaft play and clean the compressor wheel and housing first then drive it around for a few weeks and have another look. Also factory oil filters are 30 micron absolute meaning they will capture anything 30 micron and higher 99% of the time. If you want better run a Donaldson oil filter that is rated at 15 micron absolute. Personally I run a Baldwin dual flow that is rated at 20 micron absolute and 4 micron absolute on the internal bypass (secondary filter).

I'm running a 30 inch FTE and a MagnaFlow stainless muffler but I've got a feeling the MagnaFlow I'd chocked full of soot. Still not very loud in the cab but outside it's a bit noisier than I would like. I'm trying to find out more on a Donaldson M090544 it should flow 2000 CFM of exhaust at a max of 3 Hg. The 40 inch M085171 cam flow over 3000 CFM but may not be quiet enough. Interesting. Your truck sounds louder in the cab compared to mine just via the video. Maybe I will just add some additional sound deadening since the old stuff from the factory is practically flattened.

The best way is using a good torque wrench but yes you can use the index and nut turn method too. As far as the turbo leaking oil due to idling I've never seen it happen unless the exhaust seal was shot forcing the exhaust pressure to enter the CHRA. It's still baffling for sure.

Yes it was to your experimenting. The turbo can hold up bit the drive pressure is of concern. If you can I say install a drive pressure gauge to see where you stand at various boost levels. If I understand what a turbo specialist told me the choke point on a .70 A/R turbine housing (12cm) is around 38 PSI. Also the HX35 only flows 58 Lb/min or .47 Kg/sec. I understand thats running solo and not being force fed. That forward volute for cylinders 1-3 will show higher drive pressure even with a drilled divider. I'm curious on the numbers though so please post it when you get it figured out. Your correct he is not the first but there is weak points in the HX35 that's why most companies opt for the stronger Borg Warner turbos.

Well hope the loose nut is easily fixed.

This I have noticed. It also helps clear the fog.

The K&N probably let dirt in. I'd flush it.

Anyone running a resonator and muffler on there truck? Can you post a sound video both outside and inside the cab? I've been told Donaldson 40 inch M085421 or a M085171 then a 51 inch Donaldson M090544 or a M101182, then a 51 inch Nelson and even a Walker 21471. Anyone running one of these? I've even heard of the MBRP Quiet tone.

Few hundred miles. Swap oil filters also. Do that a few times. Also flush the pan out. With the plug out dump about 1/2 a gallon of oil through the crankcase and let it drain. I'd bet that's iron from the block. What air filter are you using?

Do you have head studs?

If I were you I would do a few early oil changes to try and flush out that metal.

I see. Thank you.