Vais01

How can idling hurt the cylinder walls? Odd you say that because my local Cummins shop state that idle (675-800 RPM) is known as low idle and high idle is 1200 RPM on the VP trucks and if I remember 1000-1100 on newer 6.7 engines. My oil analysis shows low iron counts and usually only 1 ppm of chromium with that idle time. Windchill on an engine? Never heard of it even with 16 cylinder CAT engines that sit outside all day for their entire lives running.

You know a boost regulator exists to modulate boost pressure from within the cab...

Well maybe I'm odd. My oil pressure is much closer to 20 PSI at idle.

Odd...I wonder if they use a common ground and if one could back feed the next. What's your low idle oil pressure?

That's okay that's what I have sitting here in my living room waiting on a little time to pull some piping and mock-up a good V-band mounting location. I'm thinking to install it closer to the down pipe to make it easier to remove. Just need to figure it out and have a welder finalize the welds.

I normally idle mine long enough to eat breakfast. Here in Texas for the past 2 days our mornings have been around 40 to 42 degrees and within the 10 to 15 min I take to put down a little breakfast my truck is just over 140 degrees. I don't get hard on it until I'm over 165 degrees. I've had this truck in 7 degree weather with no grid heater and only additives to keep gelling at bay. At that temp it took almost 35 minutes of idle time to get it to 140 degrees. The grid heaters really help warm up time too.

Personally I'd send it to a machine shop to inspect things like the head for cracks, the valve guides and clean the coolant galleries in the head etc. Nice work on the smoothing of the casting.

3rd generation trucks have the dummy gauge. I've yet to see a second gen gauge not move up or down with changes in RPM. What is yours doing?

Not sure if you will add power maybe free up 5 to 10 or so horsepower just due to reduced resistance in the pump all thanks to lubricity.

Does anyone have a preference of what type to use? Swivel vs OE Mopar? I can get both for nearly the same price.

I will try to get a shot of my LED headlights as comparison once I install them.

Good to know. I'm running 4 inch stainless after the down pipe with a MagnaFlow stainless muffler but the drone is killing me.

Ever find out which size you ran? I've got a 30 inch sitting in my apartment made of 409 HD stainless.

Interesting. Anyone have a write up on replacing the sector shady seal? I've got a weep on mine I'd love to fix. Also running AT4 +4 in my system. The factory fill on my truck was plain power steering but a month later production truck would have been filled with ATF+4. If you have 4 wheel disc your factory fill is ATF+4.

Remember all modern diesel typically has 2%-5% biodiesel in it so the HFRR value is around 380 if the percentage of biodiesel is 5%. Regardless I add 1 Oz to every gallon of TC-W3 2 stroke oil. Biodiesel in itself improves combustion so the loss of cetane is minimal. So to answer the OP's question yes two stroke oil will help you regardless and is a cheap investment.

I personally use 16 GA wire on most uses and 14 GA for ground wires. I like my ground wires to have the lowest possible resistance per foot possible. For low amperage stuff 2 conductor 18ga wire is great.

I'm running these they are from Anzo and fully adjustable. They create a narrow beam. I will be trying to go with LED head lights soon so I will try and keep yall up to date on that project.

Agree. He's gone above and beyond.

Sounds like it could be an air issue. Check your fittings first. After that look at the return/relief spring and possibly replace it with a new one.

Haha my thoughts exactly. A good friend of mine is in disbelief that the Ardrunio can control the turbo nozzle.

Is your issue only on start-up?

The suction side on my system is 1/2 inch and it has a draw straw already in it. So my issue is up stream of the pump. It used to hold 15 PSI at wide open but not lately. Filters are not clogged either.

Thank you sir. Let me know what size you used.

Okay folks I've been slammed with work recently so forgive me for not going through and making a huge post of accumulated data and info. I will try to do that over the weekend. Update now. I've gone and reinstalled the factory air box and found the biggest difference is temperature of lower boost to no boost region. Won't say which is cooler so here is your cliff hanger. If I'm lucky I will try and get some dyno time next month to test both back to back and see my baselines.

Well according to Airdog I should replace the factory overflow valve with a new one and go from there. I replaced my pressure side hose with 1/2" rigid aluminum and some 100% bio rated hose never did get the opportunity to pull the return line during the replacement of the pressure side line.