Vais01

140K is early even for gasoline engines which do not last nearly as long as a Cummins. Now what color did you say the puff of smoke was again? Are you certain it is not just white? I'm going on a limb here and saying you may want to look at your turbo seals first.

Yes. Toyota does do that but so does different Meritor axles that do not have removable differential covers. I would weld in a bung otherwise risk a leak. I would not pipe thread any structural piece. You can weld to iron with a nickel welding rod.

Well, if you find play you will need to compare that to the other valves to determine if your valve guides are any good. The engine is pretty young to need valve seals.

You could weld a bung to the back of the cover that uses a flange type bolt similar to what is used on the oil pan. I would not worry about a few ounces at the bottom that does not pour out. Just be sure whatever plug you intend to use has a magnet.

The Harbor Freight Ultrasonic cleaner is a good unit. The company that makes it also builds them for other companies.

I hear you there. Salt dries up just about everything and swells steel up with rust. Seems a great solution would be to paint everything once a year. Now I am curious to see this wagon wheel tool.

Probably why the Amish still use a horse and buggy

Its simpler just to buy another differential cover that has a drain at the bottom. Also you will not get all the fluid out either way because of the viscosity and the axle tubes will always hold some residual.

High load works the same way. I have seen a few cracked and melted pistons from hauling a load and using the MPG tunes (high timing tune). EGT may show lower but piston crown temps become elevated because your spraying fuel more on the crown and less in the bowl.

Quadzilla Adrenaline V2 is allowing 15 degrees of timing on your truck? I am probably missing an update or two.

My Quadzilla allows up to 8 degrees of timing advance but pushing that much timing with enough fuel could cause the piston crown to overheat. I would keep the timing down to tow anything.

Judging by what is in your signature you should use the edge for play. If you advance timing too much there is a chance you can damage the piston crown.

We would have to try and set up a mini meet.

I will let you know when I do.

Sounds about right.

I may make the trip one day up to a military base my brother (very close friend) is in. It is not to far from you.

Bet the AME is loaded with PAO or a group 4 base stock?

You know, I seem to remember a video you made with the injection pump timing plunger sticking. I bet its pretty close to that noise. I wonder if I have a sticky delivery valve or plunger on the rotor.

I would keep an eye on engine load when you do it may be the most helpful. Both drive pressure and load will go hand in hand.

A little helpful info. You can measure the shaft play and compare the data on here. http://www.myholsetturbo.com/manuals/HX_Service_Data_Sheet.pdf

Nothing in the oil that would cause a stir. Now smooth as silk is my rifle but not my engines. Having said that the distinct knock almost reminds me of a CAT 3116 with an improperly adjusted fuel rack. Now I can say that over 2100 RPM the knock vanishes. I wounder if the timing key on the VP44 shaft can be swapped for another.

Mike any idea if the truck will throw a check engine light for cranking up without a transmission?