Jump to content

Vais01

Unpaid Member
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Vais01

  1. Well guys I'm needing a bit of advice. Looking to knock the drone out of the cab of my truck while keeping the sound from the tailpipe. So which FTE resonator should I use 17 inch or 30 inch? I have a MagnaFlow SS 4 inch flow through muffler I just want to knock the drone out.
  2. I would look at your fan clutch and thermostat. The fan clutch could be stuck in the locked position causing temps to stay down. Also the sensor needs to have a good source voltage to read accurately. Check the voltage to the sender and post what you find. I will try to find that spec in my Cummins manual and let you know what the voltage should be. Also reset your gauges. With the ignition off hold the odometer/trip meter post on the instrument cluster and while holding it down turn the ignition to on. The odometer/trip meter will do some funny code reading and recalibrate the gauge cluster. The codes that pop up will be associated with the gauge cluster in most cases. Let us know if this helps.
  3. I agree with you there. I personally think 400 horsepower is more than enough and with a fast spooling turbo and a properly built engine (head studs, correct pistons, etc). A 24 Valve VP44 injected engine has pistons and tuning from Cummins that will yield 300 horsepower and be close if not over 900 ft. lb. of torque. This is plenty of working power for sure.
  4. That is known as a Jiffy-Tight fitting and yes they are notorious for having problems. Well that's interesting. I do have a new return ball and 17 PSI spring. I will be replacing them and seeing if that helps. I wish I had a flow monitor to tell me the true GPM. GPM of the pump should be 2.5 and should not drop more than 20%. Pressure drop of 3 PSI will show a drop in flow. In hydraulics flow is speed and pressure is the result of doing work (work or resistance to flow creates pressure). Flow is a fixed value unless the motor turning the pump slows down or the pump loss is too much. I believe the pump and motor may be dieing just due to age. If I find this to be true I will install a FASS TITANIUM 150 in its place.
  5. Well this project is moving along.
  6. Well to add to the partial hijacked post quick-connect fittings come in various forms. My quick-connect fittings are sold by two different companies but are from Legris. Eric sells them for the best price. Even the Dorman Chrysler/GM fittings are better than the ones Airdog used. I personally like JIC/AN fittings and traditional reusable hose ends. Push-lok fittings in my opinion can damage the inner liner (the tube) of the hose which shortens it's life span.
  7. Nothing factory for sure it has a half inch pick-up in the tank. The water separator is also the pre-filter for the pump and it is only 1000 miles since the install. I don't believe the sender has died in less than 6 months. I do have a precision mechanical gauge for this I can Tee into the line but to confirm it against the electrical sender requires some additional plumbing.
  8. Ok so the pump is roughly 5 years old and I have rebuilt several sections of the wiring harness in the past 6 months. So any ideas. I don't have air leak issues or fuel leak issues. Fuel and water separator filters are less than 1000 miles old. Idle 16-17 PSI and wide open down to 12 PSI Just to clarify this is an Airdog FP-150.
  9. Well guys and gals I've been incredibly busy recently. Well here is the short story. I recently replaced my pressure side fuel line from the Airdog to the VP44 all is well and no issues with that project. So the pressure starts to fall off only on wide open throttle and is getting worse over time. Any time I go wide open the lift pressure falls from 16 PSI to 13 PSI I've even seen it as low as 12 PSI. This has been going on since early this month. I have replaced fuel and water separator filters twice and it makes no difference. Also it seems the electrical is having issues. I have rebuilt a section of the harness that attaches the relay into the circuit. All points that were added were soldered in and I don't see any wild voltage drops across the system. I am beginning to think the pump motor can't keep up due to worn out brushes. If anybody knows anything else that could let the pressure drop and only at wide open throttle let me know?
  10. Agreed. High timing is for RPM at highway speed. In my case over 65 and typically 70 MPG otherwise I get the rumble strip effect going down a smooth highway.
  11. Correct the PCM has a wire heading to the battery but on my truck it is within the wiring loom heading to the drivers side. My battery terminals both have 3 ground leads. One to the body, one to the engine block, one into the wiring loom going heading towards the drivers side (probably to the ECM) and one to the frame. There are a total of 6 ground wires from both batteries. The PCM needs to have a very good ground. I do not remember what alterations were done on the transmission ground wiring but I do know something was changed to prevent shift hunting.
  12. Ok guys just a quick tidbit of information. Has anyone here corrected the grounding issue on the trucks prone to this issue? If the diodes are constantly taking a dump it would seem to me that only 2 reasons for this to occur are happening. A: poor construction and B: ground based issue. I myself have alot of altered and added ground wires on the truck. Especially from the PCM to the body ground and the alternator to ground. I will be going through my grounds in the winter months to clean them also and add some sealer to them to prevent further and future corrosion. Mike has been nailing this problem on the alternator diode trio failure for some time but I have taken additional precautions to help with future issues.
  13. Seeing that you have am HO VP44 (high output) I would recommend going to another HO VP if you plan on staying below 450 horsepower. If you plan in the future to go above 450 then jump into an SO VP44 (standard output). The difference between the two VP44 pumps is the size of the internal plungers, which is smaller on the HO VP44 and the programed pump timing is a bit different. While you are there go ahead and check your APPS sensor and maybe even replace it for good measure along with the nearly hidden cam sensor behind your VP44. If you get another APPS sensor I would give TIMBO a ring his APPS sensor is a better version and still costs less than running to the dealership for an APPS sensor. Cheap insurance in my book. Also just an FYI on your fuel filter I do believe the 5 micron filter from the common rail trucks (03-up) fit in the cartridge canister it's a great upgrade to the factory 10 micron filters.
  14. I agree with this. I can't place my Quadzilla on the fuel economy tune at anything lower than 65 or I will get a rumble strip sensation in the truck. Spoke with others and they tell me it is torque converter chatter go figure. Definitely a balancing act.
  15. I will have the bores measured first if they are our of round I'll bore them otherwise they will be seeing a hone. I'm still betting they are within factory spec still only reason I say this is 2 blocks I have stripped in the past I measured and they were at factory spec and those engines had over 300,000 miles. Like I said I measure first and I mean lots of measuring.
  16. Don't get me wrong the HE351CW is a great turbo but it would need some different plumbing (turbine outlet elbow, down pipe and hot side pipe) and the housings (compressor and turbine) would need to be clocked accordingly. It would have made a great stock turbo. For OP it is more cost effective to just get a Cummins Recon HX35W and bolt it up. If the OP wants a bolt up upgrade an S300 would be a great one but won't be cost effective unless he wants to add more power. An S300G only flows 58 lb/min where the HX35W can flow up to 60 lb/min. Only way to make it an upgrade is go to a 62/65/.70 divided and waste gated but again this is cost prohibitive.
  17. Quick update the BHAF has netted me about .25 MPG additional. I made my 275 mile trip on about 14 gallons of diesel. Which equates to roughly 19.6 MPG. Not too shabby. This was done between 75 and 80 MPH so RPM was around 1900 the entire trip. My lift pump pressure started dropping off from 15 to about 14 so now I've got to see why. The filters just got replaced and lift pressure is basically the same. I'll be carving into the lift pump to stretch or replace the return spring more than likely. That will happen when I replace the pressure side line later in the month. Other than that my OAI temps stayed around 105 and the intake (air horn) probe read around 100 degrees. Seems the BHAF is working well. I will be dropping in the factory air box next week before heading to Louisiana for my brothers wedding to compare MPG and temps. I will keep yall up to speed.
  18. That usually helps alot. If I decide to keep my truck in 3 years I will be having the engine rebuilt to handle the extra power I'm throwing at it but mostly a good freshening up. I sourced the pistons thanks to your picture. The piston has the part number on it. The last digit is different depending on the bore size. I plan on keeping the factory bore size as long as the wear is minimal it will just be rehoned. That intercooler should help some with your EGT. I'm running a BD intercooler and I like it alot.
  19. I would try the company AH64ID mentioned.
  20. How much blowby? Also i would check the engine out starting with oil analysis prior to opening it up. Just to see what could be there.
  21. Okay. Now that my sides hurt. I'm sure your pistons are loving the proper break-in cycle. If I remember correctly diesels should be run hard after a rebuild. i actually read that from an engine R&R book but I can not remember who's book.
  22. Just keep it as low as possible also be sure to an oil pan like bolt that is common so when you need one you can easily source it.
  23. The food you eat has more crud that will bug you before a little carburetor dip.
  24. Open your oil cap and leave it on the opening if it bounces up and down by the gasses you need to rebuild. If not your rings may be okay. You could have valve seals go out but if the head had gotten that hot in that little mileage I would be concerned other things may need to be looked at. Pull the turbo at the exhaust flange if you have oily residue on the exhaust manifold side I would be say your valve seal theory is correct.