Vais01

Due to the filter design the only way to make the filter minder work is with a PVC or 4 inch exhaust tubing that you can drill a small hole in the pipe post filter and before the factory air tubing. Otherwise if you drill the filter reducer you risk the integrity of the filter itself.

They are all very similar to one another. What are you comparing?

You may need to have your injectors POP tested. You do have an aftermarket lift pump if remember reading correctly?

We're focusing on the knock first.

One of the additives within some blends of ZDDP is sulfur which oxidizes the oil and begins lowering TBN. So far this is what has been reported. Not sure if all mixtures have sulfur but if so this is detrimental to the oil. This was the key reason for removing it from the fuel prior to DPF vehicles.

Turn it off and see if the knocking continues. If so you will need to completely remove it. If it continues after you remove the tunner you may have bigger fish to fry.

You can rebuild it yourself for about half that over a few brews and a little time. I do believe there is a write up and the kit is available from different vendors.

I would think the solinoid hung. Chances are from many cycles of use. It happens at times with age.

I myself agree with this statement. I am using a Donaldson Powercore based filter because the media can flow so well and actually filter the air better than OE. I may go back to the airbox and keep this filter for when I go make dyno runs.

I asked because I saw titanium. Unless you used titanium valve keepers it would have been from the turbo. Fresh engine eliminates the 11 PPM silicon theory I had. I don't believe Garrett uses a titanium compressor wheel in the turbo nor are the bearings constructed of such but I could be wrong. The silicon values are probably leftovers from the new engine.

Correct. Once you lift it resumes the cruise. What I am getting at is if the APPS signal is acting up and is sending a mixed message to the ECM. So ECM says good but the ABS system which measures speed says no good and do not resume cruising. I'm probably over thinking it it's been one of those days.

That is correct I have a two wheel ABS system. I was trying to see if it was possible to convert it into four wheel ABS. Locking up the front discs on this new quiet pavement is no fun. On older pavement that is a little more course it's not a problem. So you can see why I'm curious to see if it's possible. If so I may start slowly collecting all the pieces to make it happen. There is an unused connector laying by the drivers side firewall that enters the harness I'm betting it's for a four wheel ABS system.

Let me ask this first. Is there a tunner or fueling box on the truck? If so remove it as it may be the cause. If not injection timing is 3 fold. The initial event occurs when the POP pressure is met. At that point high pressure fuel is injected into the piston bowl. The other part is the timing commanded by the ECM according to what the sensors see. The VP44 also has the some internal timing mechanisms that mechanically set snd alter timing. This is known as the timing piston or plunger. It is possible for this item to stick in an advanced or retarded state of timing and giving you a knock. At idle the IAT sensor commands and I'd the biggest factor of timing at idle. It's a good fast thing to check and clean out with a little carb clean. If I remember correctly it is on the intake plenum of the head on the drivers side of cylinder 5. If memory serves me right it is the smaller of the 2 sensors there. Chances are it won't have enough effect on timing to create a knock but it's a good idea to check. Also valve lash (Overhead) adjustments can effect timing but again this probably won't effect timing enough to cause a knock. Best bet is to eliminate the injectors as the culprit. Have them POP tested. Cummins injectors are supposed to be set at 310 BAR and plus or minus 5 bar. If the POP is low the injection event begins early too low and you knock due to inadequate temperature in the cylinder to create good combustion. Some aftermarket companies set the POP pressure low because they are compensating for a larger injector size and the fuel does not atomize as finely (mist VS droplets concept). Larger droplets mean slower to burn and require more heat to they start injecting fuel earlier to compensate. If the injectors check out then proceed to the next step which is check fuel supply pressure with an accurate mechanical gauge. If all is well proceed to inspect your VP or replace it.

They go to the ABS module as far as I know and use the data link to communicate with the PCM to also calculate wheel speed.

I would say that is a possibility. The wheel speed sensors are hall sensors so it is possible that one of the tone rings or sensors is not getting the correct reading. That is as long as the voltage input is correct so the magnetic field is accurate. Does the speedometer function correctly over 40 when the ABS light appears?

Judging from what I see you could have gone upwards of 15,000 on your OCI. Question are you running the factory turbo and air box? I'll explain once I know this. I try and source my filters locally but I will see what they have to offer thank you for the link.

Could be a fuel timing issue as far as the knock is concerned.

That is some things I would like to find out. I do know the ABS module is different and has a few additional sensors/plumbing other than that I'm not sure what else would be needed. My understanding is the 2 wheel drive hubs can have tone rings also but are not used unless you have 4 wheel ABS.

I hear that.

Very nice. Congratulations and let us know how everything goes.

I'm curious to know of the 4 wheel ABS system can be retrofitted onto a truck with a 2 Wheel ABS system. Anyone know if it's possible?

Not sure but what about the transmission output speed sensor? What is its condition?

This is an interesting and very good point. Putting that one in the diagnostic tool box. Another thing is the TPS/APPS throttle validation side could potentially be acting up. If the ECM thinks your accelerating it dumps the cruise function momentarily. If I remember correctly the last time I spoke with Tim (Timbo APPS) he mentioned 2 idle validation circuits are within the APPS. It is a long shot but a possibility.

Any updates on how everything is doing? I'm keeping tabs on this because I think your work could potentially become the future for many of these trucks.

A knock can be fuel related or mechanical related. Flexplate can be inspected through the bell housing inspection plate. Make sure you use a good flashlight to see as much as possible. While your there check the tightness of your torque converter bolts. I have heard of them vibrating loose after some time. Now for the OD situation. From my understanding the torque converter goes into lock-up around 45 MPH and then shifts into OD with the converter locked right around 55 MPH. Now for your torque converter lock-up hunting this is normally caused by AC voltage but loose ground connections can also cause this. More details later. The slipping your talking about, is it a shift flare (when it revs up before engaging the next gear) or is it a complete loss of drive power? OD is controlled electronically so check your battery and ground connections first including engine block grounds. Be sure they are all clean and tight. Also check the PCM connector on the passenger side firewall. There are 3 connectors and the connector in question is the one nearest to the engine. Just be sure they are clean. Now after this look at the alternator. What I mean is check for AC voltage out put at the alternator. I hope Mike chimes in because he has the spec on the maximum allowable AC voltage thar can be seen.