Vais01

If all you have is a single small chirp your just fine. My controller would not act fast enough probably because it did not use load as an input.

If you have an HX35W I would go to 75 horsepower injectors but you would need an upgraded clutch. I would use Valair clutches over South Bend also but that's just a preference.

Unfortunately no, drilling the divider will only cause turbulence. I know people who have done this and saw little to no results. The filter has several options from 4 inch to 6 inch flanges. Tomorrow I will do some finalization on whether this would be a viable option for us. I don't see why it wouldn't be. According to the vendor this filter in average conditions can last up to 100,000 miles before needing replacement. It can be back flushed if in high dust environments also. More info on this tomorrow.

The HX35W is a good turbo but if you go to injectors that are close to 100 horsepower over stock you will see the front bank of cylinders(1,2,3) will show high drive pressure and high EGT compared to the rear bank (4,5,6). RV275 injectors will be fine.

The HY35W was intended for automatic transmission trucks because of the way the shift patterns are done. When a shift occurs the the RPM drops enough that an HX35W would see a loss in boost and lug the engine. The negatives of this turbo are high tubine drive pressure. This was corrected on the 2004.5 and up common rail trucks by altering the turbine volute design and the wastegate position. This turbo also was how they kept particulate matter emmissions down on all the auto trucks. On the common rail trucks it also creates some in cylinder EGR. An HX35W has a flaw and that is only one volute goes through the wastegate. You can go into an aftermarket S300 60/65/12 divided and wastegated turbine housing and it will spool very well but not as fast as the HY35W.

At 75 MPH my speedometer says 80 and I am usually turning about 1900 RPM the larger tires make a big difference in cruising RPM. Also what's not in my signature is the fact I have the 3rd gen brake upgrade on the front. I don't have a saved link otherwise I would paste it below for you guys to see. The only way to run those larger rotors and caliper brackets is using 17 inch wheels. If you ever go this route I'd recommend 3rd or 4th generation factory wheels in a 17 inch and to prevent speedometer inaccuracy use 265/70/17 which are the same diameter as the factory 265/75/16 tires. I've got a wedding to be at in a month from now so I will get a long distance driving report much later down the road.

A factory HX35W and HY35W both have the sane air flow I do believe was around 60 Lb/min. Which is still more air than the current BHAF filters are rated for. I've been running many different drivability testing. Throttle response has increased compared to the factory air box as has the turbo sound in the cab. Most will not have an issue with the sound even without the silencer ring due to the Holset inducer blades being rather calm in pitch and the compressor inlet geometry helping with sound. If you do run a Borg Warner turbo in the S300 category they have an attenuator compressor housing to help reduce sound which also helps with airflow by a small percentage.

I do believe I mentioned it on the video but maybe I did not. 70 MPH is actually 65 MPH. I have yet to head to the dealership to fix it but it's great for those who like driving 5 MPH over the posted limit all the time. Prevents speeding haha.

I hope they treat you right. Lifetime warranty should mean LIFETIME.

So gents last night I made a little video of the BHAF. Yes, the results are that good. Now if I can work with the vendor to build a box to house this (mostly for sound and also moisture ingestion) we will be in great shape. I hope to speak with the guys tomorrow and give all of you a heads up of what we can expect tomorrow.

Looking really good there Doc. Hope she feels strong.

Mike I think for his future purpose the HY35W will be perfect.

For some reason when I had set my max boost at 30 PSI I would never get a chirp but anything higher would produce a chirp and shudder of the turbo.

Seems your close to perfection. Yes, I do believe the load percentage should be the best way to auto remove the cruising program and enter a power or more boost program that tightens up the vanes. Here is another question I know was an issue for me. If you are at WOT and quickly lift the throttle do you get a chirping noise from the back feeding from the air? If so the reason for it is the actuator can not react fast enough to compensate for the drive pressure on the turbine side dropping off and the boost pressure rapidly exiting the inlet of the compressor. I have been on the phone with others in the past that have had the same issues and the way to correct this was to loosen up the vanes some. This was also using the Fleece Performance VGT controller.

Not sure this was via phone call I made to them pertaining to some oil type and weight questions. I'm sure it's probably due to some sort of liability or possibly some component may not be compatible with something within the additive. I do know Cummins manual states do not use break-in oils and during a build to only use clean API approved engine oil. I do know and have used lubriplate on main and rod bearings and tappet surfaces and cam bearings. This was also older engines 12 valves mainly. DPF trucks use a CCV filter so only the gasses make it through no mist but I'm sure some ZDDP additive vapors off and enters the intake tract.

Definitely something to do with emissions compliance I am sure of that.

If the mobile version showed the signature I may have caught that haha.

I have heard of the cams flattening out on newer Cummins engines and directly from Cummins they said DO NOT USE ZDDP additives on both pre and post emissions based engines. Not sure the exact reasoning behind this. I have been told that Cummins had some soft cams that were not properly heat treated make it out to the public.

Oh I see. The map looks very similar to the software I used to program the HE351VE I used to use. I know this is completely off topic but I am willing to send one of my own maps for the HE351VE if you are using a Fleece VGT controller.

Oh, ok. So these are timing maps. Interesting to see.

Looks like I did miss it haha. Well we are all human.

Just out of curiosity what is this map for. I do not see any values on the map or what the graph is referring to.

I honestly can say I have not seen any electrical components on several friends VE injection pumps. With the exception of the automatic transmission trucks. Not to say I could have missed something but I've never seen any wiring heading to the VE injection pump.

Only timing there is static timing and the same can be said for the VE injection pump also. Although the AFC does alter the fueling this is solely related to boost pressure and not any other conditions.