Vais01

Ok I just wanted to be sure that wasn't affecting MPG. Now one thing I will say is the fuel return banjo fitting on the back of the head can leak causing air to enter the return side of the fuel system and cause a tiny leak. I actually had this happen to me and after replacing those banjo seals I gained 1 MPG due to the fact I was no longer bleeding fuel. This seal just fails with age but is nothing absolutely serious. I doubt this is what's occurring but inspecting it once a year wouldn't hurt. I am waiting for your next MPG report with the latest controller programming.

I was thinking of doing something very similar either way I need to do a dash roll down and possibly pull the upper dash cover to check out anything else that may be causing the chirping.

I know this is an old thread but I am familiar with the VE injection pump. Chances are AFC settings(star wheel/fuel pin adjustment) are incorrect. Also another potential issue is static pump timing. If I remember correctly the timing can be adjusted by rotating the injection pump towards the engine to advance timing and away from the engine to retard timing. You can only shift it 1/16th of an inch on the retarded side and up to 1/8th of an inch to advance it. I always advance the pump 1/16th of an inch first as this does not affect towing performance. On the top of the VE pump there is a stamped line marking center and a line on the back of the timing gear case the pump bolts up to. That is what you gauge your movement on. Let me know if you would like any additional information on pump adjustments.

Valve lash adjustments. Also what air filter are you using? Aftermarket air intake?

Although funny sounding that is actually a great idea.

I agree. From the picture this looks to be rust perforation. If that is the case I would shy away from the truck. A welder can weld in a patch using some 1/8 inch sheet steel but it is not something you should want to do to ensure the trucks longevity.

Be carefull with this because I have had Amazon say it fits when it clearly did not.

There was some differences in panels but not much I do believe that began in 99. The sport fenders are for sure different to allow the dual bulb headlights to fit. Also the Sport bumper and grille are also unique to the sport line but the bumper and grille can be swapped.

Hahaha. Yep that would be how I have been dealing with it.

It's probably about right. When was the last time you ran the overhead adjustments?

Squeaking is from something rubbing because the vibration from heavy acceleration causes it.

Definitely no change I'm not going to turn at wide open throttle. Although in a slower turn at wide open there was no change.

Only under heavy acceleration and yes I did retighten several screws. I'm tempted to lower the steering wheel and begin disassembling the dash.

Red requires 500 degrees to remove. Red loctite is permanent.

All small screws holding the lower dash and upper dash cap are tight. The upper dash screws by the windshield (all 5 of them) keep loosening up but I do not believe they thread into metal. I believe there are some sort of polymer they thread into that is attached to the firewall.

I am a 2 wheel drive and I've got a new dash. Been in there since last year.

Well that puts you near 1600-1700 RPM. I am alot closer to 1200-1300 RPM just keeping the truck from wanting to move is not easy.

I have a large industrial camper, nearly leveled front end, ranch hands front and rear I have plenty of that wind resistance driving empty. Also what is the stall speed? I know this doesn't really make a difference after 55 because the converter is in lock-up but I am just curious.

As the title states I have a chirping squeak under acceleration never heard something like this and whats worse is it is in the cab within the dash. Also the forward dash screws keep getting loose definitely becoming an annoyance any clues as to how to keep them tight and what may cause a chirping sound in the dash?

I am running 75 MPH at 1900 RPM according to the fueling map for the factory set ISB 235 engines. lb/BHP-HR / RPM .339 / 1400 .337 / 1600 .336 / 1800 .334 / 2000 .344 / 2300 .354 / 2500 .365 / 2700 .371 / 2800 .393 / 3200 So that being said you will be most efficient at 1900-2000 RPM down the interstate. Are you still using the factory torque converter?

An HE351VE uses a T-4i flange so I am guessing your using an adapter and the downpipe has a cast elbow with a 4.21 O.D. if i remember correctly. If you hooked up with no cast elbow then you must have used an HX40 downpipe and its about as close as you can get. I am bringing this up because I you may be loosing to much drive energy on the turbo. When I had the HE351VE I used a Steed Speed manifold but the geometry for the turbo position was definitely off a bit. Keep an eye on your manifold because the HE351VE is heavier than most traditional turbos. I do believe 14 sq cm(.80 A/R) to be the best suited for the second gen rigs if you run 7x.009 injectors or larger. If your running 7x.0085 injectors or smaller I would say run 12 sq cm(.70 A/R) housing. What RPM are you at 60 MPH and 70 MPH?

Run down the highway with the vanes open somewhat. I had gotten my best with 5 PSI of boost pressure measured in the air intake (air horn). Now if your not seeing any MPG gains I have to ask what exhaust manifold are you using?

I didn't see any difference between these and a dying set of Industrial Injection 7x.009 VCO injectors. I actually picked up 1 full MPG with Chris' injectors and lowered my cruising EGT about 50 degrees. After I got rid of the HE351VE and went to my 62/68/14 I dropped even more cruising EGT temps and my MPG went up about another .5 MPG.

Interesting fuel economy. I get close about 20 MPG when cruising at around 75 MPH. I also am doing 1900 RPM at that speed. What is your cruising boost value at 60, 65 and 70 MPH?

I am a little smokier but then again converter is lower stall than whats normal and I am also using Chris' injectors. From a dead stop I will produce one heck of a cloud until the turbo catches up then it is nothing but power. If I roll into it for just a second then squash the skinny pedal then all you get is a little grey and a whole lot of cheeks clenching the seat.