dodgedieselnewbie

New development.. I was checking all my connections and tested some more with no change. I pulled the plug on the back of the alternator and see white residue in the plug.. How do I clean this connector.. can I spray anything in there? Compressed air only? I plugged it back in and the reading got worse... up to 0.2xx :-( Help!

Okay.. received your message before I walked into Sears.. lol ran the test in the parking lot. Set to 0.000 .. I measured from each battery first.. drivers side fluctuates 0.044 - 0.050 passenger side 0.035 - 0.039 Positive lead touching metal connector around large black wire on alternator and neg lead to passenger neg battery terminal. . I get 0.108 - 0.110 Can someone tell me if these measurements are in range or out of range... or are so whacked that I'm still doing it wrong? I'm sooooo ignorant :-(

Well... this is what I get when I tried to measure in mV mode. Doesn't say what that means in manual. Attached pic of specs.. Does this thing measure what I want? Edit: Going to assume NO. Off to return and find another.

It was suggested to me that I go with a WellsVE APPS if I were to need one. That it is a non contact, magnetic type with nothing to wear out. What are thoughts/experience on this?

see above edit...

Maybe my pic and vid aren't showing? It says its true rms.. just not sure if I'm in mv mode in the ac side of things. Thanks for the replies... EDIT: Well.. I found mV in AC on the meter.. yay! Just kept pressing range a bunch. However.. the decimal will only stay by first digit. I can get the meter to show zero by pressing the Relative button but not sure I want to be in relative mode. Will give it a shot either way and see what I get. It's raining buckets here.. so will have to wait...

Mike.. I've watched your videos and neither show where you have the probes connected. I touched the positive to the to the large black wire (the connector at the end) on the alternator.. do I need to actually touch the nut/bolt on the back? And.. the negative to the negative battery lead. I got a steady 0.006 which leads me to believe.. I did something wrong? Note that in AC mode it says V on right.. when I switch to DC it says mV. Should I leave it in DC to test alternator?

I'd like to know if this meter is capable and if I'm selecting the correct functions? Which is.. turn selector knob to "V dc-ac"... hit mode to switch to "ac"... hit range to move decimal over to third digit.

When I touch the probes together.. It'll go to zero in DC mode but not in AC mode. Lowest it will go is 0.008 - 0.009. Is something wrong or am I doing something wrong? I'm feeling kinda helpless because I don't know this stuff...

No.no... that's not connected to anything.

Well.. this is the meter I bought.. I don't see where 2V can be selected. I can hit the range button and move the decimal over. I put it on V ac/dc... hit mode for ac.. then hit range to move decimal over. I have no experience using multimeters... so any help would be great! BTW.. when I turn it on to V AC the meter won't read 0.000.. it fluctuates around 0.015 - 0.025 like it's picking up current in the airwaves? This is with no probes connected to it...

Okay.. bought a meter and IF I'm doing it right.. I'm in the .8 to .9 range I set the meter to AC V and and set the range to first decimal ... Is this correct? Put the positive lead on the big black wire on alternator and negative to the negative battery terminal... I set the range to the second decimal.. I get 0.12 It doesn't dance around like I see in Mike's video? Then I tried on the third decimal.. and got a .006 reading. Help..............

I'll buy a meter tonight and check. It's driving beautifully again today. It may be coincidence but I could swear the problem pops up when change tunes on smarty.

Thanks for reply.. I'm leaning toward the apps due to the fact it's related to tension on the pedal and a code. Just not sure why it's sporadic.. and if it's possibly because of not resetting the apps. I'm pretty sure I had my batteries disconnected for a couple hours when I did valve adjustment and injector install.

I know a couple of times I've had my batteries disconnected anywhere from 15-30+ minutes. I've never done an apps reset (didn't know about it). I'm asking because I'm still having issues with my truck (at times) dropping in and out of lock up.. like yesterday was horrible. Just releasing the slightest of tension on the accelerator would cause it at 55, 65 and higher. Today.. no issue whatsoever tho.. Ran around 80 miles.. stop and go and highway.. never dropped out once. Not sure why it has good days and bad? I'm getting a TPS low voltage code every time I check and clear. I'm going to try the reset procedure tomorrow based on cumminsdog suggestion. And.. I still need to get a meter and check alternator voltage...

When I bought my truck previous owner installed new calipers to hopefully fix a problem with the front passenger side wearing down quicker.I have since replaced all the hard brake lines and installed new pads. It seems there is still a problem with the right side. Symptoms are twice the amount of brake dust on that side.. the warmer the brakes get it starts to squeal. . There is is an ever so slight pull to that side at times.. and the brakes seem to become more grabby the warmer they get. Im also starting to feel a slight pulsation like the rotor is slightly warped. The only thing I can think of would be to change the soft lines.. right? Anything else I should look at/for? Thanks...

Since I fixed the vacuum leak.. there is a "tin like" sounding vibration coming from under the dash.. between the glovebox and cup holder. It's not constant but does make the noise under curtain light acceleration. Is the heater box under there?

Since I found and fixed a vacuum leak.. mine looks "normal" once again. It was rising above my cab.. which didn't seem too normal.. to me ;-)

Sorry.. Not soaking that in. I don't know exactly what the smarty is doing on each setting.. 1-5 suck in my opinion. More fuel and/or timing I assume as you go up. 9 feeling most like the Edge. So...If I'm applying the same force to the peddle on each setting (which is the throttle.. correct?) I can understand it getting to the shift point quicker but why does it change the RPMs at which it shifts?

Sheesh... it seems like a lot to go through ($$$) to have an exhaust brake on an auto!

I was leaning towards the BD vacuum unit with the BD autoloc torque lock... for simplicity sake. But should I learn how to use a lock up switch and go that route?

I am finding that depending on which setting I put this on... it alters how the truck shifts. Should that be so? For example on sw3 or 5 it won't shift until 2200-2500 rpms and find myself letting off the throttle to force it to shift. SW7 is a little better but SW9 shift much quicker. Does this make sense? Also find that more duration equals better shifts.. I think

I don't know the answers.. so I think it's best that I pass. Wasn't too fond of all the pitting and rust anyway. Thank you. Anyone have a recommendation for the best exhaust brake for my application? Are they all (3?) created equal?

Not sure but Isn't the little canister in the second picture (in my first post) the vacuum can? I thought $500 was pretty cheap if I can make it work.. even without the compressor. This thing comes with a tank too... mixed in with the spaghetti lol

See first post... So... is the compressor necessary for this brake to work? Shoot.. I thought it was for on board air.