dieseled

If you can buy or get ahold of a Smarty so3 , and call the guys at Smarty they can send you , e-mail the files for any year - model , I think they do charge for them now . From your computer you load the files into the so3 using an ethernet cable , then into the truck via the obd port . All ecms work all trucks , but newer years are better for older trucks. Once you have the file available for your year on your computer , it costs you little to try all the ecms you can get . ACS said my truck had a short too ,could be ac rip from alternator , or just their "excuse" They do have to disclaimer the fact that all issues w/truck need to be addressed before installing a remanded ecm , but it leaves you with a lot of work or an uneasy feeling when like you say when their work could have failed They say they test the ecm after they repair , I`d like to know how after repair I got mine back and it was the exact same as when I sent it to them , I believe they did the repair as it had silicone sealing it , but I don't think they "tested" it Yours they say the flash file chip was replaced, mine they didn't and I think that might be the issue with mine , for the money I think they have a policy that only so much work is done before they claim unrepairable or your truck is the issue , I get work for dollar , but they should just be more up front about it

My experience is they wont take care of you My truck runs , have a good ecm Sent spare one in for repair , got it back , they said they replaced a lot , including main processor It didn't work , still had codes locked in it , wouldn't clear ,wont start Sent it for warranty , they sent it back with a tag unrepairable , reason main processor , no offer of discount on replacement as warranty clearly says E-mailed them , they never contacted me again Easier for my blood pressure to forget it They are no different

http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/dodge-battery-cables.html

Its something you don't need to do , the dana 70u has a capacity of 7500 lbs , way more than the dr tag says , get tires that will handle the truck rear wt , about 3000 lbs and tongue wt of trailer ,less w/ weight dis hitch The only benefit to the dually 80 rear I see is the way larger brakes ,unless your putting way more weight directly on the rear of the truck and using tire - wheels that will handle the same You could put disc brakes , elec over hydro on the trailer Put chevy 1ton brake cylinders in the 2500 drums as an up grade Add air bags or Stableloads to level the truck with the trailer load If you want to see if the 2500 rims will fit over the dually drums , use the lug centric lugs from the 2500 , and make sure the hub centric ring on the dually hub clears the rim also How wide is your trailer , isn't it 8' , or do they make narrower one in the UK that still weigh 9k

I have 3rd gen dually rims on my 99 , they have 1/4" more offset so you can run wider tires and maintain clearance between A lot of truck camper guys that don't want duallys but want high gvw run 19.5 rims , the tires are f and g rated http://ricksontruckwheels.com/wheels-dodge.php https://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-Type/Wheels/Wheel-Diameter/19-5-in/

I put a dana 80 dually rear axle complete from a 1996 3500 on my 99 2500 , the 99 had a dana 70u so the pinion yoke is about 1" closer to the t-case , driveshaft may or may not need to be shortened 1". U-joints and straps are the same , if SRW axles and DRW axles are both 80 centers not an issue Both where drums , brakes hooked up no problem , shoes on the dually are way wider, way better braking Spring perches are the same ,and the same distance apart unless the dually was a cab and chas , use the shackle plates off the dually if the 2500 dosent have a 80 , holes are further apart , axle is bigger diameter The 96 dually I used rear was a 2wd ,99 is 4wd , so the shock mts on the axle are lower , needed longer Bilsteens ,anti sway hooked up fine , made an extension for my height sensing proportion valve ,threaded the rod used a coupling , now its adjustable Leafs on the 2500 and 3500 are the same if the 2500 has 3" wide HD`s ,but I put progressive 6 leaf packs from a same year cab and chas on , and used the contact overloads that were on it 2500 https://www.generalspringkc.com/Leaf_Springs_Dodge_Ram_2500_1994_2002_s/1916.htm 3500 https://www.generalspringkc.com/Leaf_Springs_Dodge_Ram_3500_1994_2002_s/1920.htm The speed sensor on the diff is different in the 94- 98 and 99-02 the way it mounts and the harness plug , I cut a small notch in a rib on top of the 80 diff housing to mt my 99 sensor . If the trucks are the same year group no issue Obviously the rear and front diffs have to be the same gear ratio if 4x4 If you have a dually front end , you have the factory 8 lug spacers that will mt to a dana 60 front if 4x4 , if not I bought some from https://arrowcraftproducts.com/8-lug-dually-adapters/ You need them to run dually rims on the front , axle widths from Dodge are the same but for the spacers The cab and chas frames were narrower and the 80 axles from them have the spring perches narrower to align , cant use unless modified Disc conversion kits wont work with dually rims , 01-02 rear dually axles w/ discs will Pretty simple really , the 2500 and the 3500 at least 99-02 are the same except for the rear end , every thing else is the same , except the 3500 came w/ anti locks in front , and 2500 it was an option , 8800 gvw and 10400 gvw are based on tire capacity more than anything else , the 3500 dually rear capacity alone is just under 11000 lbs , the short coming of the trucks capacity beyond that is the unit bearings on the front axle , if you put Ford dana 60 outers or Spintec hubs and regular bearings on you solve that . I also have d25 coils and dual shocks on the front and a dually flat bed , I sold the fleet bed to offset some of the cost

You might want to try an other relay , could be sticking closed I had a bosch mini that kept running sometimes a few seconds after I turned my truck off

No , the speedo adjustment goes back to stock when you remove the Smarty

The Cummins reman ECM I sent to ACS got back unfixed and is at ACS again shows CCD in my overhead console The ACS reman in my truck now , Bob at ACS figures is not booting up half way , with no 25sec LP as one sign , he acted like it could not happen , I`ve fired up the pins on the ECM plug and it engages my LP relay and starts the LP fine , no wireing issues , and checked all the other wiring I could think of before hoping it was the CKP When I got water in the CKP plug and damaged the Cummins reman ECM , it didn't just get wet , the plug socket on the CKP faces up and can fill with water if you can get enough spray to that area behind the starter , when it craped out I was in a few feet of snow , and out of town ,in CA , and then later while out of town at Cummins they pressure washed that side of the motor , because a 12 valve owner- employee didn't know how to prime the 24 valve and dumped diesel all over the place , It ran extremely terrible after that and got towed home . Hopefully its been less than 6 months , that's the length of time for full warranty from there to a year its a sliding scale My Cummins reman thru a 1698 as one of the codes and was CCD Switch to a different ECM and its fine

Yes did the ground mod , and have been running a denso hairpin alt since I put the 1st reman ECM in 2016 from Cummins, I check it once in awhile its real low AC That ECM I believe went out because I unknowingly left the seal off the plug on the CKP and it shorted out the 5 volt to sensor ground and sensor return , filled with water in the snow I`d buy a ECM from Cummins again but they want 2800.00 for one now . So this ECM is from ACS and I`d like to think its good ,Its a rebuilt that I paid core on . I noticed that when it was running in between no start -no 25sec LP problems ,when it idled it would pulse a hundred rpm up and down with the grids off , today after new CKP it idles steady What worry's me about the ECM is ,I sent in the one from Cummins , the one that I believe shorted with water on the CKP connector in the snow , wanting to have an extra in the truck , sent it to ACS they said they replaced quite a lot in it , but when I tried it , it still had codes locked in it , it wouldn't take a flash and it would not run the truck at all , I just sent it back under warranty a few days ago. I don't know how they tested it good after repair and they missed all that . That's why with the gremlins with this one I`m not sure I trust it , its defiantly " caused " by the ECM , still does it with the PCM and body module un plugged , but if the CKP wasn't sending any signal of crank movement to the ECM ? I thought the cam pos sensor verified what the CKP input was ? I wish I had some live scan that I could have confirmed that with, Until I get a second ECM as a backup I don't trust the truck to go to far

Awhile back I posted wondering if a VTSS system that I didn't think I have could be causing a no start , and no 25 sec LP run that I was experiencing occasionally , I got no response . This no start was happening it seemed after the bats were disconnected for a few days while doing other things to the truck , and then it would run again. I had just replaced the ECM so I wondered if it was causing the problem , but the WTS was working ,LP 2 sec run with key to run worked and the cluster was also , when it ran it was fine , no codes , tach was not misbehaving So it happened again after the truck had been sitting for a few days - bats where still connected I started wondering - praying that maybe it was the crank pos sensor - truck is a 99 . Thinking it probably needs a reading from the sensor to activate the LP and somehow have the ECM able to start , from the starter spinning the motor I did have a po 336 at one point a month ago ,cleared it and nothing more , but I did order a sensor from Genos at that time . I pulled the sensor , tested the 5 volt and ground , checked for resistance to ECM plug , and for short to ground , put in the crank pos sensor , and all was good , LP 25 sec is back truck starts , Now I wonder if this is just coincidence or if that fixed it , I`d like to have faith in this truck again , not wonder if the ECM `s crapping out again Does the ECM need input from the sensor to run - start , and for LP 25 sec starter bump I`ve replaced probably 4 crank pos sensors in the life of the truck , usually it just makes the tack erratic , maybe it went out completely this time ? Sound like the crank pos sensor was the problem?

If you look in the 3rd pic in the moparman article link above , you can see the top of the dog on the right and the bottom of the dog on the left are wearing at an angle from engaging into the cross drive coupler , the two edges of the dogs are parallel when new

Seems like if only one bolt was in it , would be a good idea to pull it and put a new vac pump to timing case seal on it and look at the hole deal anyway There`s a lot of rotational force from the power steering pump , and with one bolt, the only other thing supporting is the bracket from the lower bolt between the vac to steering pump to the block , I hear those crack sometimes with both bolts holding it on .There is a hub that insets into the timing case that would keep it from rotating to much, but that is probably not to good because the vac pump gear in the timing case is connecting the injection pump gear. Good time to reseal the vac pump if its off and at least flush the steering system I was going to reseal my vac pump and put on a new Borgson PSP on last week , and had a vac seal kit handy , but when I pulled it apart the dogs on the vac pump drive gear were about 1/3 of the way cut thru and the drive coupler had some small cracks in it ,dogs on the steering pump were worn too , but not as bad , that's how much rotational force there is , 240k on the truck , I heard 4x4`s like to wear the dogs , and having any extra load on the front end makes it worse I ended up getting a rebuilt vac pump from Gould Gear ,he has pics of the dogs snapping off completely ,that would leave you with no power steering and little brakes since its hydro boost . He also sells the drive gear and coupler if you wanted- or find the need to rebuild it yourself Hope you don't have anything but an oil leak

99 auto 4x4 EZ ....... Had a bad ecm , po 1689- 1698 ,after testing wiring , inj pump ....needed to replace ecm I kept this ecm for future repair and ordered a rebuilt , paid core , wanting to have a backup. Recently received & installed a rebuilt ecm from ACS , ran good .no apparent issues I`m doing a 20 year makeover list of things including turbo , exhaust brake , manifold , power steering pump and vac pump While having the bat disconnected for a few days at a time , and then re connecting it , I have three times had the same thing happened I go to start it ,key to run, WTS comes on fine ,cluster illuminates fine , LP does its short 2 sec blurb , I go to bump the starter to check for LP 25 sec and its not there , crank it and no start ,no codes The first time it happened I tested LP by running it , powering it at the ecm plug - with it disconnected , runs fine, its a fass w/ relay , tested run start power to ecm , checked inj pump........ switched to the bad ecm to see ? put the new ecm back , and it was fine again , started ,LP 25 sec ok, I was not paying attention to locking unlocking drs , and few days had gone by Second time after bat disconnect ,worked on things and reconnect, it happened again no 25 sec LP and no start ,same thing , disgusted I locked the truck , with key fob, batts still connected Go out the next AM with a list of thing to test in my mind ,unlock with fob and its fixed itself , started . Third time same thing, batts disconnected a few days , finish the new vac pump- power steer pump install , grit my teeth ,connect the batts , no 25 sec LP , no start After pulling ecm, testing for bat voltage at the no knock on inj pump that can keep it from running and every other thing I could think of I started looking in the FSM at the CTM - central timer module , I`ve had this truck almost since new and have never knew it to have a VTSS- veh theft sec system , but remembered from just doing a heater core and dash mine has 2 plugs ,so its a high line , reading about setting off the VTSS by locking the doors with the hood unlatched to access the batts , un- hooking the batts then using the key to unlock the drs while batts are disconnected then re-hooking the batts and trying to start the CTM send a no start to the PCM .them presumably to the ECM , if you have VTSS Same thing happens it says if the batts go dead after VTSS is set and you key open the drs and try to jump start , it will go into no start and you have to disarm by locking and unlocking the drs with key or fob , but it says security lamp will flash horn and headlight flash to let you know the truck was tampered with. I don't have a security lamp in the cluster , and the only time Ive ever had the horn honk and the headlights flash is when Ive hit the panic on the key fob I put the newer ecm back, reconnected the batts , locked and unlocked the drs with the key fob as the FSM says to disarm the VTSS that I don't think I have and it started, LP runs as it should ???? I tried to recreate the no start by disconnecting batts w/drs locked , opening them while disconnected and re connecting batts without the disarming lock unlock of the drs but it started anyway Now I`m left wondering if I have a glitch in the ecm or a CTM that is partially enabled to no start In between no start times while batts remain connected the truck seems fine , but I haven't gone far in it , in case the ecm craps out Question for anyone that does have the full VTSS , when its in a no start condition do you have WTS and cluster illumination and 2 sec Lp w/key to run , but no 25 sec LP w/ starter bump

I am aware that the k27 sold by diesel auto power has a v band ex housing , the bd ex brake has a v band to 5 bolt adaptor that would be left off , the brake housing is made to work with both 94-98 v - band , and 98.5 - 2002 5 bolt The k27 built by industrial inj will not work with any turbo mt brake it has an odd ball 4 bolt cast elbow as sold by diesel power products and others The s200 is 5 bolt The hx 35w on 94-98 trucks are v band The hx 35w on 98.5 - 02 are 5 bolt Was looking to see if any one had real world exp with the borg warner s200