Dieselpwrram

I broke the plastic latch on my rear sliding window. I bought one of those plastic replacement kits from the auto supply store. It lasted about three weeks. So I went to Home Depot and bought a metal latch use for windows used in the home. They come in different types and sizes. I selected the small black metal latch type (see photo). As you see it fits the sliding truck window frame just fine. Even used a couple of Original drill holes for mounting. Where the part of the latch cups you have to bend it just a bit to catch the locking half. This fix works great and easy to use.

Thanks for your reply. I replaced the plug once last year and put a non harding sealer around the edge. It still had some seepage then. I'll install it this time without sealer like you suggested.What did you use to install your plug? I made a jig to pound the plug into block without going to far. My first try I knocked the plug into the water jacket and had to use a magnet to retrieve it.

I see I'm going to have to replace an expansion plug in my CTD. I have a some leakage coming from one of my plugs and don't wan't to revisit the problem again when I install a new one. What type of Permatex or sealer is best for this repair?

I did my clutch last year. Unless your flywheel is in bad shape you might want to have a good machine shop turn it. This worked for me and saved me some money.

Thanks for your info. No, I replaced the relay with a new 70 amp. unit from Freightliner. The starter may have hung up when I bumped the starter. The bump may have been enough to fry may solenoid. My starter other wise has no symptoms of worn solenoid contacts or problems. I used the shorted solenoid as a base in my conversion to a manual cable setup. Now I won't have to be bothered with relays and all that to start and stop the engine. I kind of like the manual setup and low cost of repair.I live S/W of Cleveland. Not very many CTD in my area.

I've had real good luck with the Walmart batteries. I bought two new ones when I lived in Arizona. I had to replace them after three years in Ohio. They were exchange under warranty no questions asked. Just have you paperwork.

I accidentally broke a vacuum line loose on the wheel well when changing the fuel filter. It caused my ABS and check engine light to come on. I also lost cruise control. I made sure all the vacuum connections were tight and my problem was corrected.

Every once in a while my truck would do the same thing. I would would just drive it and it would smooth out and run fine. I suspect in my case anyway might be the fuel. Every now and then I put injector treatment into the tank. I has been a while since I've had that issue again. Other than that nothing else was touched or adjusted.

I found that using an appliance timer works great with my engine block heater. I set the on and off time to my usage. I keeps the engine warm without it being on all the time. I think a regular light timer would be a little to light duty.

If you use a chemical greaser you might want to dilute some. A full strength greaser will discolor the finish on aluminum and some other metals.

I've been using Wally World oil and a NAPA gold filter. There are some oil filters which will not hold up the the oil psi put out by engine. they could burst and cause real problems. I use a strap wrench to remove and tighten the filter.

I've been using Wally World oil and the NAPA gold high micron oil filter. I also use strap wrench to snug the filter tight. One time it had been hand tightened and vibrated loose. What a mess.

I bought my Tom Tom GPS last year. I'm really happy with the unit. I found it very easy to operate and update via my computer. I used the open cubby hole next to the cup holder to mount the base of my GPS to. I dumped the suction cup setup and used a screw through the base a plastic plate fitted to fit the cubby hole.

I was surprised when I replaced my water pump. The OEM pump was made in England. The replacement pump from AutoZone and was manufactured in Canton , Ohio. I thought for sure it was going to be an import. The replacement also has a limited life time warranty. kind of nice that some parts are still made in the USA.

Great info. The video was a nice add to your write up. I had a heck of a time to locating TDC using the push pin. Last time I accidentally pulled the dam thing out of its bore. The other fear I had was breaking the plastic pin feeling for the drop hole.