903Dodge

I had a power puck and it made the truck run weird sometime like a switch was going on and off It would also throw a Apps low voltage code. Took it off and all my issue I was having disappeared. When I opened up the puck the board was corroded and had water in it.

I only pull the occasional stump out. I pull 7k worth of trailer and equipment half the year.

Here are the pictures.

Just an update. Half the pinion was missing teeth. Amazing it hasn't laid over on me sooner. I will post some pictures later. Turns out the supposed rebuilt rear end may not have been rebuilt. It looks like Bronco Salvage in Houston just put some paint on it and called it rebuilt. Had original Dana ring and pinion stamped build date of 2000. Not sure though if the original bearing where timkens though.

I am thinking about spending the $$ and go with OE Dana.

Yukon gear set. I think it was 500-1k in miles before I could tow. Yes changed the oil right after.

Lost my Speedometer the other day and started troubleshooting. Only to find the abs ring is toast and the pinion gear had chipped and caused all the damage. The rearend was rebuilt 3years ago and has 36k on it. Any my idea what would cause this to happen? Poor install? Poor Material? I only haul 7k for 6 to 8,000 miles a year.

Thank you for the help.

Today making a drive to drop off some deer meat to be packaged, my trucks alternator voltage jumped to 18v for a couple of minutes, then went back to normal. First thing I am going to check is my grounds. If they check out to be clean and good should I put in a external voltage regulator like on the 12 valves?

Total cost for mine is going to be $2500 tax included. Removing head Machince shop (Rebuilding the head and machine work if needed) $550 max (Could be less if no milling is needed.) Tappet cover gasket Cummin Gaskets Coolant ARP head studs (Could of saved $100 if I bought online.) $500 The biggest thing is the down time for the machine work. Up to 5 days here locally. I would do do it myself, but if you took into account the days I would have to take off, it would cost me more.

Would you buy the whole upper gasket kit from geno's garage? It has some stuff I don't need in the kit. Did anyone one have to do the milling that ARP says has to be done on the #24 stud?

Thanks. A shop I called wanted an extra $175 to replace that gasket. Said the injector pump had to be removed.

Is the tappet cover easy to get to with the head off. I need to replace the gasket.

ARP?

I will find a local shop and let them look at it. If it is a head gaskets any suggestions (Studs or anything else to do)? I don't plan on making anymore power than what I have now.

Thanks for the help. I will check it out.

Would you just replace the gasket or buy a new cooler and gaskets?

What's everyone's oil temp? How hard is it to fix?

Like the title says. I noticed this coolant right below the exhaust manifold. Any ideas if it could be a Head gaskets issue? Just changed the oil and it's not milky. The coolant still looks good.

My intercooler boots showed up today!! Took very little effort to get the 3.5" on my intercooler. Maybe the 100 degree weather here in Texas helped. Thanks guys for for the input and help.

I used a tape measure so I am not exact. But I ordered 3.5 to 3

No offense but I finally got to a point to pull the boot and measure it to be sure of the size. When I pulled the lower boot I had a little bit of water come out, ( it's been raining a lot here in East Texas) would that be normal because of the humidity in the air?

Me78569 What sizes do I need to order to replace all the boots?

I am having one of my boot on the intake horns side come loose. I have tightened it and it still backing off. I boost maybe 38psi. Does anyone have experience with https://www.siliconeintakes.com/? I am wondering if there is a smple fix, or if I should just get a new set of boots? The truck is 15yrs old and has 240k miles.

Been so busy lately haven't got to test my apps. I haven't had a CEL again.