deehammer

Thanks @dripley just knocked on their relay with my knuckle and it started working. Will swing by and grab another relay on my way back from lunch.

New issue here turn signals just went out. Flashers work fine. No trailer hooked up or anything. For as bit the turn signals would come on for about 2 clicks then go out both left and right. Now I get nothing. I looked under the hood and on the side panel for a signal relay but did not see one. Anyone have any advice where to go from here?

Update i have decided to go with Blue Driver...a little pricier but does not have the connection issues OBD Link has with iOS devices. If I had android I would go with OBD Link Bluetooth. http://www.lemurmonitors.com/

Ok so my slight miss at idle when fully warm is finally getting on my nerves. From my research it is most likely the injectors. I figure after 270K they need to be at least pulled and cleaned, and while doing this I may as well upgrade a bit. I am thinking of putting in RV275s. I do have a few questions that I could use some wisdom on as I have not played with injectors before. 1. Do I need to upgrade my fuel delivery system? Now don't throw stones at me but I still have the stock setup with the original injection pump. I have replaced my LP 3 times over the years and monitor my fuel pressure post filter with a mechanical gauge in the cab. Pressure is always 18 psi or greater at idle and I never dip below 10-12 psi at open throttle. I am not against upgrading the pump and lines however i do believe that the newer stock replacement LPs have come a long way since the original Carter pumps. 2. I have the stock turbo, don't think I will have to upgrade with this but thought I would ask anyways.....I do have an EGT gauge and 4" exhaust system so I am good there. 3. Valve Cover Gasket? I hear these are pretty solid. What are the chances of this needing replacement? Cost? Mine does have a little leakage over the years but nothing too bad. 4. Cross Over Tubes? Research has me feeling like my stock ones should work fine (engine serial number check is good) however I do feel that I need to replace the O-rings. 5. Injectors? Again I don't want to go too crazy but if you have an opinion let me know. My other thought is just to rebuild/clean the current injectors maybe upgrade the tips?? Has anyone done this. Seems like the crossover tubes might fit better with this option.

@Hawkez looks like a good product, only drawback for me is I am an iPhone IOS guy (yeah I know don't throw any hard objects). The IOS version of that tool doesn't seem to have Bluetooth capability.

So I am getting tired of going to the local parts stores to get codes read and reset on my vehicles. What code reader do you use? I have read a little about needing a DRBIII(R) scan tool, OBD II scan tool??? What do I need for my truck? Want to ensure what I get will work for all vehicles that I have.

I have a 53 Block as well have put almost 260K on mine without a problem. My truck is mostly stock with no power modifications at all. The key thing has already been talked about on this thread but I will repeat. Treat the engine with care by doing regular periodic maintenance from engine oil changes to coolant service. Also let the old girl warm up for a bit before you lay on the throttle.

Mike if you get this installed and working right you can count me in as a buyer....for what it's worth.

Mike where did you pick this up at? How much is needed to fill (over fill as I see most do) the NV4500.

Check out my topic on this subject I took some pics as well..... LMC truck has a perfect fit dash for a good price. If ur doing the heater core I would do the AC Evap as well.

Retainers work great much cheaper off amazon I suggest not buying them locally

@Hawkez that is very nice of you but they will be here tomorrow. If they do not work out I will hit you up for some assistance.

I ordered some off of Amazon I will post a reply as to how they work out. In the mean time I have been driving with no door panels, very old school. Funny to see my daughter look at me yesterday and ask "how am I supposed to shut the door?"

Ok so I pulled the door panels this morning to replace the door handles as they were old and getting stuck in the up position causing passengers to slam the door without it shutting. As some of you probably could have guessed I broke just about all of the door panel retainers. The stealer ship and most online places want 5-6 bucks apiece...i need 26 so that is not a viable option. Part number is 6505878AA...anyone know of a good replacement, substitution or where I can get them for a better price? I found part number 6503709 that looks like a good replacement and can get 50 each for 6 bucks.

@stevens cummins same thing happened to me years ago. Ended up swapping the wiper motor and problem went away. Good luck

Need to change the tranny fluid. Looked already but couldn't find detailed instructions. I am sure many of you have done this many times. Sounds like many of you fill from the top? Drain from a PTO bolt? How many quarts? What type of fluid? Any info would be great. Thanks guys.

Just finished installing all 6 new bushings. Found them at a local dealer at $4 each. Took me about an hour once oriented it was pretty straightforward. Pedal has no sound now and is smooth as butter. If anyone needs advice on this issue ask away.

Thanks. I saw the Article written by @leathermaneod should have searched for that first. Looks like a pretty easy job just need to pick up 6 Bushings part # 04294639.

So when the weather starts to get a little cold outside my Clutch Pedal becomes squeaky when depressed. It is not the bearings or anything like that it is the pedal linkage itself. I have sprayed WD40 to up at the top of the pedal linkage connection but it doesn't seem to help or I am not hitting the right part. Anyone else experience this issue or have any insight? Everything functions fine it is just a little annoying. Seems I always have to find something to chase down on the rig.

@DocH thanks for the advice. I replaced the radiator tonight with all the same parts you did. For all those reading the OSC radiator is a perfect fit no washer bottle issue due to inlet length. Only complaint is the drain cock is a plug only no spout. I had the same issue with the lower Gates hose 22082. Unfortunately I ordered it before your post and I had to cut off my old one. Went to local store and got a Dayco lower hose and it fit like a glove. Compared the hoses side by side and the Gates large end that goes to the engine block is tapered about an inch or so too early. I could tell the Dayco and OEM hoses were much better. Take my advice and do not purchase the Gates lower hose go with another brand. Really other than the hose issue it was a simple job glad to have it done with the cold weather on the way.

@DocH i think you meant OSC 1553 how did it turn out? I have heard the same issues about the Spectra.

@JAG1that is a great idea. Can you elaborate on the valves used? Is this a stock lift pump you are using? I am interested in your setup. Could be useful for fuel filter swaps as well.

I would not and do not have a spare pump it seems unnecessary. My method is to watch fuel pressure (mechanical gauge) and replace parts as necessary. Truck will run in needed situations on Injection pump only until I can replace bad lift pump which would not take very long. My 2 cents.

Got most of the parts from Rock Auto and a few of the odds and ends needed from local shops.

@notlimahHaha yeah I got the shifter and everything back on after the picture. Just the A/C needs to be recharged will take it in this week. I know the truck doesn't drive any better or faster due to new dash but it feels like it does. I love that feeling.