smokeythedodge

You got it. Snap on makes a great torque multiplier... BUT they are pricey!!!! The one I used came from Northerntool.com BUT it is an older one that has been discontinued... They do have another one that looks to be pretty good. About $179. Little expensive I know, but I have found it to be very useful on the farm on stuff like tractor lug nuts and dozer track bolts and such. LOVE it and you can disassemble it and grease all the planetary gears up real nice, should last forever if not overloaded! The pullers, you can get them from sears.com. They sell a 2 pack of craftsman branded ones that are guaranteed forever which is always good! Or you can get them from Snap-on, mac, and similar... Make sure that it is has long teeth though! The seal on my dana 80 was HARD to pull because it was mostly rubber, have to really get a puller with long teeth to get in far enough to get to the metal part of the seal to pull it. Torque wrench, just anywhere. I had a snap on but, it was stolen...... SO, because money is tight, I looked around a lot and found northerntool.com has some good prices as well as a lifetime warranty on theirs!! SO that is what I went with. Anybody have any other questions, feel free. --- Update to the previous post... Also, you need to check the pinion bearings for play. With the driveshaft removed and before you pull the nut or yoke, see if you can move the yoke and pinion up and down. If you can, then you are going to have to look into replacing the pinion bearings. They can get bad over time when the fluid level in the rear axle is low...... But if you keep up with fluid changes and stay on top of leaks you should be good to go! My seal failed because it simply wore out after 10 years... ALSO, check your axle vent tube for obstruction as well as the vent orfice on top of the axle, stick a pick in it and wiggle it around. One reason a pinion seal can fail is a plugged diff vent...

Alright, kinda wish I would have taken more pictures, but I was hot and ready to get it back on the road... So here is what I got, perhaps this will help someone looking to replace their own. First things first. Go out and take a look at your Dana 80. Now, I don't have a photo of the other type for comparison, but there are actually two different Dana 80's in the 2001 and 2002 model year. This is important to get the proper seal. For my axle, in a 2001.5 Ram 3500 quad cab 2wd diesel 6 speed, it has the non flanged yoke and the double stepped down pinion shaft seal. Part number is 5015618AB from Dodge... Now the other seal (for the flanged yoke) is 5073944AA... Here is a picture of what a NON FLANGED YOKE looks like. So.. If yours looks like this, you must go with the top seal ending in AB... Now for the required tools..... -Some kind of torque multiplier (Pinion nut is TIGHT) -Various hand tools (sockets and driver to remove the driveshaft) -Craftsman, 2 jaw puller, small one and the large one -24" Pipe wrench or miller tool 6719 yoke holder. I am poor, so I used a pipe wrench..... -1 7/8" craftsman 3/4" drive socket. Details later.... -torque wrench Now, about the 1 7/8" socket... You can go try and find a thin wall socket of that size, or you can spend $25 bucks at sears for this socket and take some meat off it (yoke is thick inside around the nut for strength) Now how to do this.... First, the service manual says you need to check pinion bearing preload with an in-lb dial type torque wrench with the wheels and brake completely removed. I did not do this. Why? Because I used to work at a Dodge dealer and we NEVER had any problems doing it the way I did mine and am about to explain to you. This axle does not use crush sleeves for bearing pre-load... It uses shims, like most H.D. rear ends. Now, the way I do this is the same way that the FORD service manual spells out the procedure for their trucks equipped with the dana 80. Ok, so here is the problem... 1. First thing you want to do is clean and dry up everything around the yoke as best you can. 2. Mark everything with a sharpie or paint pen to realign it later. 3. Block the front tires and support the rear of the truck with jack stands.- or do this on your lift. Also put tranny in neutral. 4. Remove the u-joint retaining hardware. The u-joint caps on mine were rusted into the yoke... Don't use a hammer to try and free it if yours is this way, you can damage the pinion bearings. Take a big pry bar and pry it apart. It will come. --Now you can see that beast of a nut. I sprayed some penetrating oil on the treads of the pinion shaft to make it easier to unscrew. 5. Take your pipe wrench or yoke holder and pin it against the frame or put a cheater pipe over the end and brace it against the ground. You are trying to secure the pinion and yoke from rotating as you try to remove the nut. 6. Hope you ate your wheaties, if you don't have a tq. multiplier you are going to have to get a 3/4 drive breakover bar and cheater to get this thing loose or a beast of an impact... I used a 1:6 torque multiplier that is 1/2" input and 3/4 out. It was tight. and once its loose, you can just start unscrewing it. 7. Get your 2 jaw puller and go to town on that yoke.... MARK IT FIRST!!! It needs to go back on in the same position it came off!!! It is tight all the way off!!!! Inspect it... Probably will have a nice little groove... Mine did... If the groove is bad enough, it WILL ruin your seal quickly. You can get a SKF Speedi Sleeve for the yoke or buy a new yoke from dodge ($140) 8. Now you can pull the seal out. Mine was a bit** and I ended up just destroying it to get it out... :banghead: Now you are almost to the finish line!!!! 9. Use a seal driver to install the seal. Make sure it is seated fully. 10. Put the yoke back on. It is tight!! You will have to use a rubber mallet probably to get it seated far enough to thread the nut and washer to get it cinched down the rest of the way.... 11. Tighten it up until the yoke is back in it's home completely. 12. Get your pipe wrench again and pin the yoke where it wont try and rotate. Torque the nut to around 450-500 lbs. Most will disagree on this step, there is some debate about on the correct torque for used bearings... I have seen them do it at most shops, they just impact it off and then back on... I don't trust that method... I set my torque wrench to 80lbs through a 1:6 multiplier and came out with something close to the factory tq. spec. NOTE: most say to use a new nut, but I did NOT. WE shall see if this bites me later on. I don't THINK it will loosen up from 500 ft lbs. That is pretty tight. But who knows....

Alright, kinda wish I would have taken more pictures, but I was hot and ready to get it back on the road... So here is what I got, perhaps this will help someone looking to replace their own. First things first. Go out and take a look at your Dana 80. Now, I don't have a photo of the other type for comparison, but there are actually two different Dana 80's in the 2001 and 2002 model year. This is important to get the proper seal. For my axle, in a 2001.5 Ram 3500 quad cab 2wd diesel 6 speed, it has the non flanged yoke and the double stepped down pinion shaft seal. Part number is 5015618AB from Dodge... Now the other seal (for the flanged yoke) is 5073944AA... Here is a picture of what a NON FLANGED YOKE looks like. So.. If yours looks like this, you must go with the top seal ending in AB... Now for the required tools..... -Some kind of torque multiplier (Pinion nut is TIGHT) -Various hand tools (sockets and driver to remove the driveshaft) -Craftsman, 2 jaw puller, small one and the large one -24" Pipe wrench or miller tool 6719 yoke holder. I am poor, so I used a pipe wrench..... -1 7/8" craftsman 3/4" drive socket. Details later.... -torque wrench Now, about the 1 7/8" socket... You can go try and find a thin wall socket of that size, or you can spend $25 bucks at sears for this socket and take some meat off it (yoke is thick inside around the nut for strength) Now how to do this.... First, the service manual says you need to check pinion bearing preload with an in-lb dial type torque wrench with the wheels and brake completely removed. I did not do this. Why? Because I used to work at a Dodge dealer and we NEVER had any problems doing it the way I did mine and am about to explain to you. This axle does not use crush sleeves for bearing pre-load... It uses shims, like most H.D. rear ends. Now, the way I do this is the same way that the FORD service manual spells out the procedure for their trucks equipped with the dana 80. Ok, so here is the problem... 1. First thing you want to do is clean and dry up everything around the yoke as best you can. 2. Mark everything with a sharpie or paint pen to realign it later. 3. Block the front tires and support the rear of the truck with jack stands.- or do this on your lift. Also put tranny in neutral. 4. Remove the u-joint retaining hardware. The u-joint caps on mine were rusted into the yoke... Don't use a hammer to try and free it if yours is this way, you can damage the pinion bearings. Take a big pry bar and pry it apart. It will come. --Now you can see that beast of a nut. I sprayed some penetrating oil on the treads of the pinion shaft to make it easier to unscrew. 5. Take your pipe wrench or yoke holder and pin it against the frame or put a cheater pipe over the end and brace it against the ground. You are trying to secure the pinion and yoke from rotating as you try to remove the nut. 6. Hope you ate your wheaties, if you don't have a tq. multiplier you are going to have to get a 3/4 drive breakover bar and cheater to get this thing loose or a beast of an impact... I used a 1:6 torque multiplier that is 1/2" input and 3/4 out. It was tight. and once its loose, you can just start unscrewing it. 7. Get your 2 jaw puller and go to town on that yoke.... MARK IT FIRST!!! It needs to go back on in the same position it came off!!! It is tight all the way off!!!! Inspect it... Probably will have a nice little groove... Mine did... If the groove is bad enough, it WILL ruin your seal quickly. You can get a SKF Speedi Sleeve for the yoke or buy a new yoke from dodge ($140) 8. Now you can pull the seal out. Mine was a bit** and I ended up just destroying it to get it out... :banghead: Now you are almost to the finish line!!!! 9. Use a seal driver to install the seal. Make sure it is seated fully. 10. Put the yoke back on. It is tight!! You will have to use a rubber mallet probably to get it seated far enough to thread the nut and washer to get it cinched down the rest of the way.... 11. Tighten it up until the yoke is back in it's home completely. 12. Get your pipe wrench again and pin the yoke where it wont try and rotate. Torque the nut to around 450-500 lbs. Most will disagree on this step, there is some debate about on the correct torque for used bearings... I have seen them do it at most shops, they just impact it off and then back on... I don't trust that method... I set my torque wrench to 80lbs through a 1:6 multiplier and came out with something close to the factory tq. spec. NOTE: most say to use a new nut, but I did NOT. WE shall see if this bites me later on. I don't THINK it will loosen up from 500 ft lbs. That is pretty tight. But who knows....

That's the way I did mine! I saw it on the site owner's diy webpage I think or he posted it somewhere a while back. Not bad at all to do!

That's cool, good deal for sure if it has a lifetime guarantee!! You got that right that thing is on there tight!

No kidding? Lifetime, that is great I didn't know they did that. Just any oreilly's you think?

You just will need the "Standard Output" or SO VP44. If you get the "High Output" one, it won't work on yours as it is designed to work with the 245HP trucks that came with the 6 speed tranny. TheDieselStore.com is probably the best deal imho and they do a pretty good job rebuilding them I hear. They used to be called Midwest Fuel Injection until they changed the name.

There is also a product called the "Speedi Sleeve" which is made by the company 'SKF' that works great. It is thin enough that it doesn't interfere with the standard size seal and it is easy to install over the crank and it is replaceable. Google up SKF Speedi Sleeve and you will find out all you want to know and more. I have used them many times in the past and they work great.

shooot that is a clean truck.

It aint gonna hurt nothin. I like to leave stuff as stock as possible, so i left it in mine.. But if you want it to be crazy loud, get a smooth metal intake tube like an afe and a cone filter or something like a big honkin air filter that the website owner has on his diy site here, then pull that silencer ring. i rode in one with that setup and it was deafening.

yeah it's stock, its an 02 right? I got an 01 that has the same style, but it is painted black.

Interesting info I found on another forum. "Some new info on the NV5600 after I had to have mine replaced! My trans guy is pretty well known for being an excellent mechanic and he let me in on a few points of interest re: the NV5600. 1. There is a modified case with an opening at the rear right lower corner that allows fluid to the rear gear. This occured around late 2000, this allows fluid to the back so these trans won't really benefit from an extra qt. Unfortunately you'd have to pull the transfer case to find out. If you don't know the extra qt can't hurt. Rebuilds have 2 or 3 1/2" holes drilled in this location if the rebuild shop is a competent one. 2. The wrong fluid is what kills the backing plates (synchro's) in these trans. It doesn't take a whole lot of driving to accomplish this. My new trans will run the Texaco/Chrysler fluid until the warranty is up, when I'll switch to the Amsoil version or the Redline. I haven't investigated enough yet to make a decision. The wrong fluid is usually put in at the local Quickie lube, the tech sees a big cast iron case and just assumes gear oil is the required lube. 3. Towing by the front end can mess up the backing plates in a hurry if the trans is in neutral and the driveline is in place. When towing these rigs, make sure the wrecker drops the drivelina at the rear end and straps the driveshaft up. I got a $45 bill for this and consider it very cheap for the headaches it could cause down the road if it reduces the useful life of my trans. 4. You own a truck that was made primarily for pulling a lot of weight. The more I have in mine the easier it shifts and the smoother everything is. A trailer increases this feeling even more. The trans is not meant for racing or flying thru the gears, it's big, heavy and almost bulletproof but needs a moment to line everything up before smoothly slipping into the next gear. When going from a stop or forward gear into reverse push toward the 'R' and count one, two, three and it should slip right in. Forcing it just causes stress on the internals. 5. My truck was purchased used w/53K miles on it and my past experiences w/ 1 tons and larger trucks made me notice the trans shifted kind of hard and toothy but from what I've read on here I assumed that was pretty normal...wrong! My new trans shifts very smoothly and I was very surprised the first time I drove it that I had been driving it the past 2 years with damaged internals. By the way, My old trans was pretty much destroyed during disassembly, some of the components were so tight that a lot of heat and a huge press were needed to get it apart effectively rendering the main shaft useless. I was amazed at the size of the mainshaft in this trans and my trans guy said that I couldn't possibly break it but the wrong fluid is like cancer to these trannys. Good luck with yours!" http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/tranny-problems-nv-5600-t156149.html

It could! That is awesome, as soon as I finish fixing what keeps breaking on my truck, I am going to get one of those RDS aluminum 90 gallon tank/toolbox combos from northern tool and plumb it into my system somehow, put a tonneau cover over the bed and viola out of sight and out of mind runnin red.

Yeah i don't know how that works, i see it all the time though so it must be legal. sucks though... i have a locking gas cap in case they want to check. if they ask for the keys I am gonna say I left them at home. Cant ticket me if they cant check! Personally, I have never been checked, next time I get a speeding ticket and i sit in the troopers car i will ask him casually about when they check for red because i am curious myself about it.

I'm in Oklahoma, we get 500 gallons at a time delivered to our farm. It runs just fine in these trucks, just don't get caught i have seen the ohp tahoes out at the OKC west stockyards and the sale yard by ada dipping tanks and leaving tickets under wiper blades... Most recently, last week when we took a load into the city they were checking pickups and big trucks while people were unloadin cattle. They just run a clear hose into the tank and use a hand pump to bring the fuel up to where they can check the color.

Musta changed their policy. --- Update to the previous post... It's been two years, it mighta been this place "Diesel Service Co Inc FT SMITH".. WHAT i do know for sure is that I bought the vp44 in Ft. Smith, Arkansas bout 2 1/2 almost 3 years ago. either at afi in ft. smith or Diesel Service co... I will have to find that receipt, because I dont remember exactly i went with like 3 of my buddies and 4 chicks and got drunk later that day, so my memory is a little hazy... I do know for a fact that it was a liftetime warranty because I had heard about them from my buddy.

pm'd you.

I don't even know if they fix ecms for these or not down there, might just clean it up and reflash them, and hope they work for you. yours is a 394 so is mine, so that must mean yours is a H.O. motor right? I wonder if that is what that means?

I got one, they do man at least they did when i bought it. They count on people not keeping their trucks more than 2 or 3 years which is usually what most people do. I haven't had a problem with my afi pump yet. but if i do they said they will rebuild it while i wait, no more than a couple hours and it will be tested and calibrated. But for what it is worth, i dont know if they still offer the lifetime warranty...

Jeez that truck is clean!!! You oughta make a thread with more big pictures of it as well as pictures of your mods and maybe a small tidbit about all of them. I guarantee if you keep this truck it might last forever. But yeah if they make a winter front like that for a second gen i would love to know about it.

Another question, just because I don't have a clue about it... So the oil capacity on the 5.9 is about 3 gallons give or take (ok, 11qts). How much oil is used to lubricate the engine at any one time?? I mean, what is the minimum amount of oil right before the pickup tube cant suck up anymore oil? I have replaced the oil pan a couple times on these, and the pickup tube is really low to the bottom of the pan so probably 2 quarts to cover it completely, but how much is in the motor when it is running and how much is in the pan at any one time? Stupid question I know, but I am just wondering how low on oil you can get one before you run it dry. ---------- Post added at 09:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:42 PM ---------- Yeah that is quite a bit of oil!!!

My guess on the adding a quart is that the roll of tp might sop up a quart and by pulling it out and putting a new one in you are a quart low?? Maybe not, just a guess.

WOW!! You have these trucks figured OUT!!! Have you thought about getting into the ECM's on one of these and figuring them out and offering repair services?? Seem like that might be a lucrative business to get into, and there aren't many that can do it properly! Maybe make a kit with a longer harness you can relocate the ecm into the cab to keep it away from the heat which is what I hear kills them!

GOOD TO HEAR!!! I tried that place in florida three times, each time it didn't work... Ended up just trying several from a junkyard.... Not sure why they go bad... But... :banghead: I got a 394 too.... I don't the others were...

Anybody know what this does specifically? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320569115318&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MESELX:IT