DocH

Hi Guys, 1st, sorry about the long post...You are just starting to see One worried puppy here! Hoping to have Big Blue ready for The Move! Thanks for bearing with Me... Well, after thinking about it and researching prices, I found an AirDog (R3SBD100) Raptor Lift Pump for $233 on Amazon and with it installed the low pressure light goes out after it Finally primes! It's been a real challenge to get it to prime, but it seems quite a few other folks found the same in the Amazon reviews. The problem is now the lift pump will run for 30 secs or so, and after a few cycles, the low pressure light goes out and she fires up, but then the low pressure light comes right on, so I shut down, then turn the key to start and the lift pump does NOT do its priming cycle. After about 30 secs or so, then I bump the key and the lift pump DOES cycle again like it is supposed to. With the Airtex pump (only about 2 months old) , then priming cycle works fine, the engine starts and runs but anything over a tiny bit of throttle and the low pressure (5psi or less) comes on, tho the engines runs and I can drive it. I just did not keep driving it because I could see that the VP was not getting enough pressure. We have put new lift pump relays in, and even jumped the lift pump connection at the relay under the hood at the fuse block, and the Airdog Raptor runs fine, but it does not get enough juice thru the relay alone to pump right? Pardon Me if I am getting some of the terminology right on some of the parts-connections etc...as You really tell, I am pretty much a newbie on this stuff, but Thank-God I have a Really On-The Ball Young Wrench-guy who is doing the work fir Me, with My doing My best to relay to Him what I am reading here! Maybe He and I will take the laptop to where I can get a WiFi connection and He can read what has transpired here for Himself...that way He won't have to rely on My relaying Your advice, as I am not sure I am always getting right in the re-telling what help You have all given . I am getting a bit concerned about getting the rig running reliably as We hope to drive Her across the country to Klickitat County by the middle of next month. I so much appreciate everything You folks have helped with, and so far the advice has been Great! The Timbo and the new alternator have worked out, now just to figure this gremlin out. From what I can tell, something is keeping the lift pump from running, then the engine quits, after running "normally" for a bit. Then, after a bit less than a minute, something seems to "re-set" and the lift pump runs again when You bump the key over. Seems like something is cutting the juice to the lift pump AFTER the engine is running... The only codes showing with the Key-on-off mode are now 0500, 1693. (The truck is at The mechanic's place right now, and I forgot to check the codes with the code reader before We finally quit for the night after about an hour of trying to figure out why She was not keeping the lift pump running after starting). Thanks again Gents! Ed Just a quick re-cap on the rig: 2001 Early build 2500 Quad Cab with 161k on the odometer, K&N Filter, 4inch Turbo-back exhaust, Banks Big Hoss tuner that does not tap the pump wire, New fuel lines, New fuel gauge sending unit, Non-HO Cummins with 47RE, new OSC radiator, new DB Electrical alternator, new fuel pump relays (in the under hood fuse box), Timbo AAPS, new fuel return banjo fitting on VP44, VP44 and lift pump replaced in 2012 @ ~~114k, new spectra lift pump @ ~~145K, new Airtex lift pump ~~153k which was replaced with the Airdog Raptor 2 nights ago.

Thanks Much Guys! She starts much better now cold and varies when hot, but still the low pressure warning light comes on under throttle..., but it takes a bit more throttle now to cause the warning light to light up. What do You Guys think of the Fass DDRP? Just parks in place of the Airtex from what I see. I really appreciate the replies and advice here. Also, who makes a reasonably priced fuel pressure test kit? Thanks Much Guys... Trying to get set for the Move from Orange County NY to Klickitat County, Wa by the 15th of November Thanks again Gents! Ed

Hi Guys! 1st want to say a BIG THANK-YOU to all RE the Timbo, new alternator etc! Running well, but low fuel pressure at VP44. So dropped the tank and found the bottom of the "module" screens were clogged. Local Dealer has no parts other than New In-Tank pump system, and recommended gentle cleaning with a soft tooth brush and brake cleaner fluid. While Gently cleaning the the bottom screens, the top one ripped. My wrench guy removed the little spring unit that seemed to fit between the screens. (I think I said that right.) We then put the new float level unit on and after cleaning the bottom screen, re-attached it. But He did not put the spring thing (see pic below) back in the bottom piece of the white in-tank unit (Where all the tubes and wire connector for the level float are housed. Will it work that way? The lines look good..it looked the only problems were the fuel level sending unit was dead (gauge always read the tank had much more fuel than it did. The tank is still dropped...but can We put it back in with out the spring-prong thing in the pic? With the clogged screens, the New Airtex lift pump was providing just barely 5 psi to the VP44 at idle ( The low pressure wrning light stayed out), but with barley any throttle applied the warning light came on. It had decent power, but I quit driving it until We could figure out why the lift pump was not providing enough pressure. The Airtex E7153 specs show 15-30 PSI and 55gph free flow. Now that the screen is clean, albeit missing what looked liked the upper screen, where it looked like the spring-prong unit fit, will it work? The rest of the lines to and from the VP44 are new, and the return banjo bolt on the VP44 is replaced.... Suggestions, or just re-hang the tank and see what happens... Thanks Guys Ed

Found this on Amazon...Williams Unit? https://www.amazon.com/Cummins-Thottle-Position-Accelerator-1998-5-2004/dp/B00B3KXF44/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_sims?ie=UTF8 Kind of interesting reading the customer reviews and such... Hope to put The Timbo in tomorrow along with the radiator etc

I picked up 3 gallons of Wal-Mart Super Tech and 3 gallons of distilled water... Should do the job, and with regular changes We should be ok. The OSC Radiator made from Rock Auto in Great Shape...Lots of padding! Fairly heavy unit...29lbs was the shipping weight...of course the box n padding are part of that I would assume.

While researching which coolant to use after new radiator install, I found the following: http://www.turbodieselregister.com/tdrarticles/tdrarticle62_antifreeze.html About halfway down the page there is this table: There seem to be a few interesting tidbits in the article, and ALL sorts of talk about silicates etc... Thanks for looking, and I am very curious as to what Folks think of the info.... Ed

Thanks Guys!!

I am interested in Tow Hooks as well

Greetings!! Is this offer open to others? Thanks, Ed

Thanks Guys for the replies! I pulled the trigger on the OCS 1553... That + gates water pump+ gates hoses+ gates cap = $197.97 delivered by Monday-Tuesday FedEx from Rock auto. Ed

Most Excellent!! I am So Glad You have it back! Great Looking Truck!! Looks like the same Blue as My Big Blue. Ed

Thanks Much, Kind Sir!! Ed

I need a radiator as well (I THINK)...Seems like the passenger's side top of the unit is damp (On the plastic area) of My OEM with 161k on it! I did not do the crank case breather tube mod until about 2 month ago, so My front parts are pretty well oiled. I am not liking the reviews I have seen of the Spectra Radiator ("... oddball extra length inlet that the Spectra Premium CU1553 comes with (ordered and returned X 2 from Rock auto). The poorly assembled/ returned Spectra also was covered inside and out with what looked like slag or solder even though it was also aluminum.") BUT I found the following unit and saw this while reading the Amazon item description: "OSC Cooling Products 1553 New Radiator Designed to OES form and function All necessary fittings or hardware are included Core is industry standard - 26 millimeters Features 4 plate stainless steel coolers that is OEM Standard OSC Premium New Automotive Radiator is designed to OES form and function. OSC radiators are technically advanced and made from premium grade Alcoa aluminum. The tubes are cadmium plated inside and out to prevent premature failure. OSC does not substitute aluminum coolers in place of Stainless Steel plate or Copper and Brass concentric coolers and they use a die cut gasket to ensure there are no leaks. Each radiator is individually pressure tested and engineered for multi-fit without compromising the look and fit. All necessary fittings or hardware are included in each unit. All units meet OES cooler design with copper concentric coolers and plate coolers where originally equipped. " I don't work for OSC or Amazon and am not trying to "sell" this unit to anybody...just looking for advice and opinions RE a radiator. The OSC will run $161 delivered from Amazon... Rock Auto wants $131 delivered Suggestions My Fellow Forum Members?

Thanks Jag1 for the reply. The Timbo just arrived today by 2day Priority mail. Will check-in back here with results! Now, off to the Cooling Section of the forum to get Folk's recommendations! Thanks!

It is so strange...Big Blue starts up fine, responds to the go pedal fine, but when You put it in D and start to move, sometimes it responds fine, then other times You can out the pedal to the floor and it Slowly revs, when You goose the pedal up and down, it wakes up!! It will be interesting to see what happens when the Timbo is in... Ed

Hi Guys, I must say that The Members here are Great! "Just listening to them you know they care" is VERY evident! Thanks Much everybody, and I really respect the wisdom I see here. BTW, MM1973, I used to live in Kamiah, Id. which was not that far from Stites , Id. I promise not to show up in Your yard with an ailing VP44! Sunday the 18 I plan to have the radiator, water pump, serpentine belt, alternator and Timbo put in. What about an aux pump in-line before the Airtex lift pump? Thanks, Ed Thanks much for the fast reply! As Big Blue (The Kids got a kick out of that name for the truck, so it kind of stuck!) is Our daily driver, being down has really put a crimp in life.....(Thank Goodness for the Enterprise Weekend special rate) Really hoping to get the rig solid for a trip to Klickitat County, WA. in Nov. Grew up out West and its looking like We maybe moving there! I will be so Happy to be rid of the salt used on the roads here in Up State NY. After 15 years here, the rig, to Me , looks like it is ready for the scrapyard! But The Young Man who is an absolute Genius when it comes to practically anything with wheels and a motor, keeps reassuring Me that Big Blue has many more miles to run! Speaking of the damage that salt does, has anybody used a product called Chassis Saver? Not to wander of-course on the thread here, but has anybody used it, and if so, how did it work out? Thanks again All, Ed

Thanks much for the fast reply! As Big Blue (The Kids got a kick out of that name for the truck, so it kind of stuck!) is Our daily driver, being down has really put a crimp in life.....(Thank Goodness for the Enterprise Weekend special rate) Really hoping to get the rig solid for a trip to Klickitat County, WA. in Nov. Grew up out West and its looking like We maybe moving there! I will be so Happy to be rid of the salt used on the roads here in Up State NY. After 15 years here, the rig, to Me , looks like it is ready for the scrapyard! But The Young Man who is an absolute Genius when it comes to practically anything with wheels and a motor, keeps reassuring Me that Big Blue has many more miles to run! Speaking of the damage that salt does, has anybody used a product called Chassis Saver? Not to wander of-course on the thread here, but has anybody used it, and if so, how did it work out? Thanks again All, Ed

Hey Guys! A little update... We swapped the old apps back in and it would run Ok, then kind of dead pedal, then by working the go pedal up and down, she would wake back up in Full-cry! Out for a drive and the periodic dead pedal would occur, then back to running well. Then the OD lock-out light came on and stayed on. Shut Her down, re-started and OD light went out. after about 30 mins of mixed hi-way town and freeway (Ran strong right up to 90 mph without a hiccup), then we were heading back and at about 60, as we backed-off the fuel for a down-hill, She shifted down rather abruptly to 2nd gear, then all of a sudden started to behave again Runs smooth, no smoke, no bucking, no missing etc... Strangeness abounds!! Here are the codes now after the drive with the old APPS installed: 3x key :P0122, P0123, P1693 OBDII Scanner: P0121, P0122, P0123, P0216, P0234, P0237, P1689 My Friend who does My wrench work is thinking that it MAY not be the VP44 dying after all. He suggests an OEM APPS (TPS), but as I am on a fixed income, I am open to suggestions as to a less spendy option for the APPS. Since the New alternator is here, should I go ahead and replace the oem unit (the serpetine belt NEEDS replacement anyway...the current belt is #2 in the lifetime of the truck and is showing serious signs of wear) along with the replacement TPS? Thoughts on the Timbo unit? Also wondering about the KW5535 Noise Filter by DTT.... Thanks Much for Your patience with Me!! Ed

Hi Folks! The 1st thing I want to say is : T H A N K S !! I don't recall Ever having so many helpful, informative replies in such a short time on a Forum before!! As I am not very good at the "wrenching" part of things ( I can read and mostly understand the info, but when it comes to the hands-on part, I have to mainly rely on People who do this for a living, I will print this out and go over it with a Friend who has owned 3 or 4 of these rigs. This is My 3rd Dodge CTD in a row (#1>94 12 valve, 2> 98 CTD, 3> 01 CTD ) and I have never run across these issue before. But I have never owned one as long as this one. Probably a dumb question, but is having an auto parts store check the alternator of any use? I don't have a multi-meter and have never used one. My job before My lumbar spine metamorphosed into a titanium-supported spine was was taking Xrays, so I am pretty much a Newbie in the diesel engine area! Thanks again, and I will keep checking back! Regards, Ed

Hi Folks! The 1st thing I want to say is : T H A N K S !! I don't recall Ever having so many helpful, informative replies in such a short time on a Forum before!! As I am not very good at the "wrenching" part of things ( I can read and mostly understand the info, but when it comes to the hands-on part, I have to mainly rely on People who do this for a living, I will print this out and go over it with a Friend who has owned 3 or 4 of these rigs. This is My 3rd Dodge CTD in a row (#1>94 12 valve, 2> 98 CTD, 3> 01 CTD ) and I have never run across these issue before. But I have never owned one as long as this one. Probably a dumb question, but is having an auto parts store check the alternator of any use? I don't have a multi-meter and have never used one. My job before My lumbar spine metamorphosed into a titanium-supported spine was was taking Xrays, so I am pretty much a Newbie in the diesel engine area! Thanks again, and I will keep checking back! Regards, Ed

Hi TFaoro, Thanks for the Fast reply! I will go over the articles, and Thanks for Your input!! Ed

Hello Fellow Mopar Folks!! Man am I Glad I found this forum!! I hope I am not duplicating a previous post/topic, but I am one puzzled Guy! 2001(Early Build -Actual Build Date on door sticker=03/2000) 2500 4wd with Vin 6 CTD, Quad cab, 155 inch w/b, 47RE, 161k. Only Mods= Banks Big Hoss Tuner( #62782) that does NOT tap the pump wire, K&N air cleaner, and 4 inch stainless Turbo-back ehaust. Oem lift pump and VP44 replaced in 2012 with 114k on the odometer 03/16 Thermostat (Stant 14289 190 degrees) 03/16 2nd lift pump ( SPECTRA PREMIUM SP1128 ) @ approx 155k, replaced fuel lines to and from tank with stainless steel 04/16 MAP Sensor (Turbo Boost sensor is what the Mechanic called it) 05/16 Coolant Sensor @ 159k 07/15 THR123+Wire (Throttle Position Sensor) 08/16 Blue Chip Diesel Low Pressure Fuel Warning Kit (shows fuel pressure from lift pump at Banjo Bolt on side of VP44) 08/16 3rd lift pump ( Airtex E7153) 08/16 IAT Sensor (ATS 23) 08/16 Fuel Return Valve (Mopar Brand Banjo Bolt on VP44 - Mopar part # 0501 1824 AA) 09/16 Fuel Pump Relay (Wells 19283) 09/16 DB Electrical New, not Reman Alternator (Part #'s: AND 0272, 56027221AD, 334-1409 56027221AD 13874, 121000-4481) which hopefully will be installed this coming Sunday. Regular fuel filter changes ( Hastings FF1260 filter, 5 micron as per Hasting Engineer stated during phone call to Hastings) I have been running Wal-Mart 2-stroke oil for the last 20k or so The truck starts and idles fine when cold, but I can put the pedal to the floor, and after about a 3-4 second delay, it will start to Slowly rev up...almost to redline if I let it. But as soon as I let off of the pedal , even a little bit, it drops back to idle. Here is a list of the codes I am finding: 3X Ignition Key codes: P0123, P1693 Low-Cost OBD II Scanner: P0237, P0123, P1689, P0216 The Banks tuner is showing a diagnosis code that a Banks Tech Support Engineer called a CAN Bus Communication problem, but it has been that way for awhile, and the truck never seemed to notice it, other than the power was back to what felt like "stock", and the mileage was down from what it used to get when the Banks Big Hoss was working. I have done the "Dielectric grease" procedure on the electrical connectors I can reach, but still need to clean all of the ground connections. Plenty of diesel in the tank, and I have been in the habit of popping the hood open when I shut down....hoping to minimize the "heat soak" on the various computerized components. In fact My Brother kids Me that I am going to wear out the hood latch! I am hoping that the new alternator may solve issues, but am hoping Someone has ideas on what is going on! The Mechanic that replaced the Oem VP44 assured Me that it was a Good Quality Reman VP44, and I have had no reason to not trust Him for the last 13 years, but He passed away and I have no way of knowing who actually re-manufactured the pump. Doug at Bluechip said it was not one of Theirs... Attached pics are of the Re-Man VP 44...maybe Somebody will recognize the manufacturer! Thanks for taking the time to read this! Ed PS: I hope it is OK to mention Brand Names...Please let Me know if I oops in one of My posts!!

THANKS All for the replies and for The Welcome! Long-time Mopar Faithful One here!! 1st Ride = 1972 Charger bought in 1982 with about 110k on it. 318 with a 904 Took the valve train, Intake manifold ( with a Carter AFB) and a New Cam with the OEM 273 profile from a Pre 1970 273, and those parts Really woke the 318 up! Factory radiator had been well maintained and I had no probs with it for about 5 more years...just kept it flushed. On The Cummins, still undecided... Is there an option price-wise between a Spectra and the OEM? Thanks again for the Welcome! Ed

Greetings All! New here and really like what I am seeing here! Live in Orange County, NY 2001 Dodge 2500 Quadcab Long Bed Cummins Non-HO Diesel with 47RE tranny with 161 k easy miles (Well other than the salt on the roads here!) Great write-up! How are Your radiator temps running after the Thermocure? I have 161k on My 2001 2500 Cummins...and she's starting to run a bit warmer than before... Replaced the thermostat, and still under even a slight hill the temp gauge shows above the middle , then when I run a steeper hill, she can run up to Almost 3/4 on the gauge...running empty on a 80 degree day. I have replaced the coolant 3 x since new... coolant never has looked rough till this year. Time for a new radiator or try the Thermocure? And what are Folks opinions RE: a replacement radiator? I see the usual Spectra units for $135 on amazon...or would a OEM for $302 be better? http://www.mopardealerparts.com/p/Chrysler__/Radiator-engine-cooling/61598935/52030191AD.html?partner=Google_149_Mopar_StockCode Or I am open to ideas as to what The Forum has found to be a good replacement unit. Truck has an easy life... no real work, just a daily driver. Thanks in advance for ideas DocH