DocH

Well, went the Moog DS1413 route Non Adj bar...$92 thru Amazon with Tax. However, the zerk grease fitting was missing but the new castle nut was in the box. So far I can't get any Grease fitting to fit the new bar...tried both SAE and Metric...where can a guy get a self tapping one... I have an e-mail into Moog and will call them tomorrow. Truck IS tighter, but My Mech says there is enough play to possibly warrant a steering box brace....

My last track bar was a: Quick Steer DS1413 Track Bar and it was installed in May of 2016...approx 10k ago...and about 6k of the 10 was just interstate driving!! Hmmm...I can get a ProForged Adjustable thru Amazon for around $100.00...BUT, the reviews I am seeing there are not very encouraging! Here is the part: Proforged 106-10044 Greasable E-Coated Track Bar I hope I'm not getting in trouble here, but I will cut and paste a couple of statements from some folks who Did buy the 100.00 bar: "had the track bar for 4months and i havent even put 2000 miles on it and i have to tighten the trac bar every other day even after using loctitie" "I have had this on my dodge truck less than 2000 miles and its wore out and cant figure out how to get product warranty of 100,000 please help Proforged 106-10044 Greasable E-Coated Track Bar" You Guys are getting the idea.... Maybe I am just better off getting a ACDelco 46B1127A for 45.88 and call it good. The local Autozone = 85 + tax for the non-adj bar. How important is the fact that the bar be Adjustable? Thoughts?

4th track bar in 171 k...Biggest tires I have run was 1 set of 285's... Mostly 265's and the truck has had an easy life...min towing rtc... Dunno .... So I guess, being as I'm waiting for the Doc to clear Me to get back to work ($12.00 per hour kinda puts a crimp in the ol budget, but Man am I Glad to get that!!) , what's the consensus as to the best value in a lower-cost track bar?

THANKS for the pics ISX! This is 'education" that I very much need and appreciate. This Forum is a Goldmine and I thank Everybody for All of Their help. Ed

I will let My Mechanic Friend know about the Timbo Unit being in Your store. I put a Timbo in My truck and am very pleased with it. Ed Seems like I remember a post about putting in a Relay Kit to power the lift pump...I can't find it....The post that is! Thanks, Ed Here is whats going on now...has My Mechanic and I puzzled... Any light would be appreciated!! Now to try and find the Topic of how to set up a relay to power the Raptor as I think the stock ECM is not getting juice to the Raptor. I can hear the relay click when I turn on the key, and bumping the starter still won't run the Raptor. Running a wire from the positive terminal to the red wire of the Raptor runs it, but I seem to remember a way to install a relay kit to be safe. Otherwise , She runs and shifts fine. I just must be a slow learner on this Forum biz!!

Has anybody figured out why track bar failure occurs? This will be the 4th or 5th one that I have had to replace in 170k.... The end that attaches to the cross member is quite loose... If I recall correctly, the last one I replaced was in 2016 at about 160k . It is a Quick Steer brand made of "Forged Steel" according to the manf. Thanks and if You Guys have a recommended unit to buy this time, I am ready to try a different brand. Ed PS: I am a much more mellow driver in my advanced age (53) than I used to be!!

Glad to hear the septic nightmare is over Mike!! Ed

This is a follow-on to what I posted in the "Thanks" topic! The only code I am seeing via the 3-turns of the key is: P1693. Using the OBD reader I get: 1689 and 234 My Mechanic Friend can't find power to the wire that supplies the Raptor.... Wondering if something in the main engine computer went by-by.... Thanks, Ed

Hi All, Just wanted to say Thanks for ALL of the help and advice received here! Big Blue made it back East after a year out West...moved back to Eastern PA and really like it here. Had a Great trip and even across The Continental Divide the weather was Great!! Arrived Dec1th after a 4 day run. Now We are only about 12 miles west of where We used to live (Orange County, NY), and here in PA, My wife and I can enjoy Our love of shooting sports! So, Thanks again All!! Ed and Sandy

Thanks MUCH Gentlemen!! Guess I'll give it a go on the adjustment part... There is no clunk in the steering wheel/shaft that I can detect...I did have the intermediate shaft replace about 2 years ago.The Local mechanic (here in Goldendale, Wa) wanted at least 2 hours @ $85 per hour to see if He could adjust the steering box and to install 3 tranny linkage grommets..That seemed a bit steep to Me! There is a Les Schwab and a Good Year Dealer here as well, as well as another couple Garages here...Goldendale is not a very big town as You might have guessed by now!! Pardon if My ignorance is showing, But is there a post/section that would have pics showing how/where to adjust the Play as described above? Thanks very much Guys! Ed PS: Just want to say a Big Thanks to everybody here...My hind wheels are draggin quite a bit while recovering from a 3rd spinal fusion...needless to say it is going to be quite a while according to the Neurosurgeonuntil I can get back into the harness doing Radiologic Technology. While I was in the hospital recovering from an earlier fusion, My Wife's neck was injured in an MVA, so She Her career as an Egistered Dental Assistant was ended.

Thanks Guys!! Have another cross-country coming up middle of next month, so really want to get Her snugged up! Is there a dedicated post to adjusting the steering box? Thanks!!!! Ed

Hey Guys, I have a Lot of play in my steering...replaced the steering box, tie rods, track bar, both front wheel bearings, tie rods, bushings, intermediate steering shaft, and shocks . Running 265/75/16 Goodyear Wrangler DuraTrac tires with 5k miles on them. Don't have wobble, just lots of play in the steering wheel. Thinking about a box brace.... Suggestions on brand etc? Thanks much in advance, Ed PS: Drove it from Orange County, NY to Klickitat County, WA. and feel like I did double the amount of steering that I used to do when it was younger.

Thanks ALL for Your patience with Me!! NPT plug ordered.

Thanks Much for the reply!! Here is link for the install instructions for the low pressure warning kit. https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/low_fuel_warning_install.html Does the banjo bolt have to be from Dodge? Thanks again, Ed

Just wanted to touch base here and Say a Big Thank-You to Everybody! Big Blue ran fine across county last Nov! Pulled a 2 axle U-Haul across the I80 rte with out issues. Arrived in Klickitat County, Wa. after 4 days. Replacing the APS and alternator seemed to do wonders for the truck. The OSC radiator has performed very well,, even with the mercury hitting 112 here early this month! Looks like We will be heading back east in Nov, with Our destination being the Pike County, Pa area. Hope to pull a 2013-14 Dodge Avenger behind us... While I'm here, the lift pump pressure I installed last Summer is leaking out of the end where the wire lead hooks on...Anybody know the size of the banjo bolt that fits the input side on the VP44? That sensor replaced the banjo bolt on the line that comes from the Raptor Lift pump. I just do not remember the size of the banjo bolt....12mm sound right? Thanks again All, Ed

Glad to see this issue raised! The bracket that goes between the cross-member and the drive-line carrier bearing ( I have the 2 piece rear drive-line) is very rusted on My 01- which fact I discovered when the OEM bearing grenaded at about 30 mph. No problem finding a Timken bearing, but when I went to find the bracket that fits between bearing and the cross-member( I Think that's the right term-it's the piece directly above bracket that runs across the underside of the bed), no luck on the bracket. Mopar USED to sell it for about 20.00, but after a LONG search I found out it's no longer available...One Parts Manager told Me that Mopar makes a person buy a whole new drive-line at around $1600.00!! My mechanic "descaled" the OEM bracket and said it should last as long as the truck...but when I really refeed on the drive-line sideways, there was more play than I liked. I just could not find a non rusty bracket in the East, so finally asked a welding genius to shore-up the OEM bracket. A couple of Guys offered to fabricate one, but in the back of my mind drive-line angles etc kept bugging Me. If I am not mistaken, there is not a whole lot of force or "torque" applied to that particular bracket...it is more of a "Place-holder" in that section of the rear drive-line? The welding of the OEM bracket worked all the way across Country!! So Big Blue is back to the Pacific Northwest!! She ran fine all the way across...left Orange County NY mid-day on the 16th of November and arrived in Klickitat County on the 20th. Quite the run across Eastern Wyoming...I-80 was closed the day before We crossed and the run that night into Larimie it was about 9 degrees up and across the Continental Divide and Nebraska was a non-stop serious headwind push. That is some desolate country, and with the way My VP44 and associated parts have been, well I am not ashamed to admit some Serious requests went Up-stairs to keep Her humming! Pulled a double axle U-Haul that was packed to the max, and am I the only person that finds U-Hauls just do not track well? Esp if the road has "depressions" or wear from Semis .....that crazy trailer seemed to have a mind of its own! Even with the heaviest loaded up front in the trailer, it STILL was a cantankerous beast! Wonder if anti-sway bars would help... Anyway, sorry to wonder so far off-thread here! Ed PS: A Very Huge Thanks to ALL of the Members here who helped Me get Big Blue ready for the trip!!

Thanks Guys!! Makes sense RE a rollover device!! One has to wish that more things were so straight forward and functional with Vehicles!! i'm thinking that the diesel flowing thru the return line should have a bit of warmth to it as well... I really appreciate the replies Gentleman!! Ed

Here's a weird one...While looking inside the tank, We found a small greenish ball...appears to be made of rubber or plastic, about the size of a golf ball! Anybody know the purpose of it? I use a locking fuel cap, so I don't THINK someone just chucked it in there. Is it to keep the fuel "agitated" or? And, Is there a favorite winter fuel additive that Folks like? My Brother, Son and Myself are heading West on I-84 early Wednesday from The NY/PA border...wonder where the coldest section will be on the 84, then 80 route across the Country? I never have driven the route during the cold months. Just hoping the Lake Effect Snow Machine is not in full cry! Any advice is much appreciated!! Ed

OK! Thanks for the Vulcan Performance recommendation, 01Cumminsforever! Talked with Eric just after They opened yesterday and He got Me set up with a DrawStraw module and 1/2 " line and connectors. I can't see why the ecm would be working with the Airtex and not with the Raptor Lift Pump. Are there particular ground connections that seem to be problematic? Thanks, Ed

Thanks for the reply 01cummins4ever ! I am using the Hastings FF1260 (5 micron) filter in the factory filter housing and try and get it changed about every 5 k. The books call for the FF1160, but I found the FF1260 is the same filter, but 5 microns vs 11 microns for the FF1160. Checking with Vulcan now.. Ed

Update! When the Parts Manager at a local Dodge Dealer went to order the New Old Stock ECM, none were to be found! Apparently the parts computer had not updated... So I guess it's re-man time. Anybody have a favorite source for a Re-man. ECM? Another question...My mechanic says the rig is not getting steady fuel from the new Raptor lift pump, even wired directly to 12v. When He was trying to clean the 2 screens on the bottom of the factory fuel intake assembly (The whiteish cylindrical unit that holds the fuel gauge float assembly ), one of the screens tore. There is also the protruding thing with the 3 tabs poking up in the pic...He took that assembly out. Could that be part of the problem in not getting fuel thru? There is also a smaller cylinder inside of the main unit...is that a filter as well? That unit is still inside of the main unit. The Mech used compressed air and blew thru the inlets 'till it seemd like things were "clear". The rig WAS running before the part in the pic was taken out, the Airtex pump was just not supplying enough pressure at anything more than light throttle, which I assume was due to the clogged screens. The fuel lines from the tank to the lift pump were replaced back in January, but I had a different mechanic and He just went with stock lines. The current Mech thinks replacing the lines with 1/2" would be a good idea. Ideas Guys? Is there a kit that supplies everything from the tank to the Raptor lift pump? And I am not dead set against doing away with the OEM fuel filter set-up and going with an "on the frame" set-up...but how do they do in extreme cold weather? Being on Social Security Disability DOES restrict the budget, but I want to keep the rig, so am open to ideas. I need to have Her up and running by next weekend as My Brother is flying in on the 15th to drive Westward to South Central WA. State with Me. We need to be 2900 miles West of here {Orange County, NY). by the 20th of this month for a Family Member's Funeral. Speaking of My current location (Zip 10940 ) does anybody know of a diesel Mechanic/shop They would recommend? I am located right where NJ, PA, and NY all come together...right beside where I-84 enters PA from NY. Thanks All, Ed The pic is of the very bottom of that white round cylinder-unit that the fuel lines hook to on top of the fuel tank.

Hey Dayco, that's Great!! And Thanks for the tip about the lower hose. My lower hose is in decent shape,, so I think I'll replace it next Spring rather than lose the coolant I just put in unless maybe there is a way to somehow replace the lower hose without flood pouring out when pulling that bottom hose. From what I read and researched, the OSC 1553 looks like about the best of the bunch for the dollar, but time will tell I guess! Thanks for the Thanks, Dayco! Ed

Thanks for the reply! I have been trying to get My mechanic to check and clean all the grounds...I disconnected all of the connections that I could reach (A large portion of My lumbar spine is fused due to an On the job injury years ago, so My ability to twist, bend and reach some of the connections under the hood and up under the engine is somewhat limited)... , then cleaned with contact cleaner, then applied dielectric grease and reconnected what I could get to. How would things work if 12 power were supplied to the Raptor lift pump directly from the battery and a switch placed in the cab-dashboard, so a Guy would 1st flip the switch to supply power to the Raptor, then start then engine after priming? Then just leave the lift pump running while driving, then to shut down, turn the key off, then flip the switch to shut the raptor down? Would the return banjo valve just send the excess diesel that the VP44 was not needing at the moment right back to the fuel tank? I'm thinking that might even help keep the fuel a bit warmer in very cold weather as the excess was returned to the tank. Thanks Much for ALL of the help here folks!! Ed PS: The cost of a New OEM ECM for My rig is $697.00 plus tax. The Parts Manager was surprised that it was not more...apparently the ECM for a much newer Ram was over 3x as much! One more question... My mechanic was wondering if there is a wiring diagram , I guess so He could wire 12v to the Raptor lift pump, but do it in such a way so that instead of an in-cab switch to send 12v from the battery to the Raptor, wire is so that when the key is turned on, then 12v power is sent to the Raptor. Ideas or suggestions? And would the simple "switch in the dashboard" be more straightforward? Thanks Again, Ed I really want to get the rig running so I can "Test drive" it for a week or so, Before heading out 2900 miles to the NW...really don't want to be Road kill in southern WY or UT etc!! Ed

Hey deehammer! You ARE correct! It IS the OSC1553 and it went in smoothly. There were no issues with the inlet being too long on the radiator etc. So far so good, and I like what I have read about it It seems to weigh about the same as the OEM one does, tho I did not put either one on a scale. The rig was starting to run a bit warmer than usual, and on hills the gauge would hit a little above the 3/4 on a even mildly warm day. I am running a 190 degree thermostat. Now the temp gauge stays where is usually does...just a hair below the halfway point (Pointing straight up). Hope the above helps! DocH PS: Btw, the Gates Lower radiator hose (GATES 22082 {#8763, MH2082} [Radiator Lower Hose] Molded Coolant Hose; Molded Rubber ) would NOT fit over the engine outlet no matter what was tried...greasing it, warming it up a bit...would not slide on the lower fitting on the engine, so I had to return it to Rock Auto. Not sure why it was too small. Even tried both ends...no go! My stock hose is in decent shape, so I am curious as to what others have found!

I LOVE this forum! I can't think of a forum where Folks are so helpful so FAST! Thanks MUCH Gentlemen!! The Airdog was a "Amazon Warehouse" item...I am wondering if it was short a few items. Most of the plastic bags containing the small parts had been opened, but the pump had no diesel smell to it RE the wiring, it only had the female plug that hooks into the OEM male plug down by the starter area where the pump was mounted. When You received Your Airdog, did it have anything more than just the short cord with the female end that has 2 tiny pin-type connectors inside? RE the pressure gauge, does a person want the pressure AFTER the big filter and just before the fuel enters the VP44? Does anybody know of a fuel pressure kit that is reasonably priced? Amazon is very helpful right now as they bring things to the house...esp since the truck is down! Tomorrow the Enterprise weekend Special will be helpful as They will come pick Me up at the house and then I can run to a local Auto Parts store...We have the usual assortment...Napa, Auto Zone, Advance etc. Anybody know of a reasonable kit from one of them? "The proper sequence for the pump should be a short 2 second or so run of the pump at key on. Then bump the starter, no engine start, and the pump should run for 25 seconds or so. After that if you turn the key off and immediately back on, it might not repeat that. Wait a few seconds before turning the key back on and it should repeat that sequence over and over. The ECM needs a few seconds between cycles." The above IS how the rig does act, but for some reason it seems the lift pump is not continuing to run after the engine starts. When the Airdog is finished priming, the low pressure light goes out, then engine start, then the low pressure light comes on in about a second or 2. RE the fuel pick-up, We re-used the original (No pump in the tank), and when I checked for a replacement pick-up assembly, the Parts Manager at the Best Mopar Dealer We have in the area said all that Dodge sells is the In-tank assembly unit. But after reading here I decided not to go with the in=tank pump, so He recommended using brake cleaner fluid and a soft toothbrush and GENTLY cleaning the OEM unit. But While cleaning the bottom of the fuel p-u unit, one of the screens tore, so it just has the one screen now on the very bottom of the p-u unit. Is there an aftermarket p-u unit that I should replace the stock unit with? Thanks so Much Guys for ALL of Your support here...I am beginning to sweat it a bit as I need to have the Rig running and reliable for the Westward-Ho run on the 15th of Nov. At least My Wife and Her Oldest Son along with Max the Min Pinscher ('tho He would dispute the "Miniature part!!) will do the trip via Southwest Airlines, so They won't have to watch Me listening to the Cummins for any sign of problems for 40+ hours! We drove the same truck East on Our "Honeymoon" 15 yrs and 6 months ago when She had only about 30k on the clock. I don't think the engine ever really cooled off on that trip...Sandy would keep saying: "One more state, then We will stop!!" Thanks Guys and hope to hear more from You Ed