Rogan

I figured that with the amount of Prior Service members we have, I'd start a thread. Feel free to talk anything military, reminisce, etc.. do start out, though, with your military experience. - - - Updated - - - US Army 1986-1994 19K20/19E20 E5-SGT Last Duty Unit/Station: 2nd Bn 69th AR Div, 197th Inf. Bde., Mech. Ft. Benning, GA "Kelley Hill" http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=xEewzMUaBu4&feature=related http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=HyrAqNv1odM&feature=related

I AM talking about my front hubs

we did a lot of trailing with the Sheridan guys at Bragg, firing tank tables and such. Buttoned-up maneuvering is tricky, as you use periscope prism 'vision blocks', which really limits your view.I started out on the M60A3 (19E), then OJTd to the M1s (19K) at Ft. Drum, NY. The hull-down/turret-down positions were always fun. I can only imagine the opposition's thoughts when our 65 tonner fired, or wheeled out of the hole! I ETS'd as an E5 (19K20) in '94.Vitesse et Puissance! KillerKats!

I helped you on your hotlink ;) you forgot the / in the closing brackets. 11E was a tanker, but up into the 60s Vietnam era. I think in the mid 70s-to-80s, it was changed to the 19-class; I don't know exactly when it was changed. [TABLE=align: center] [TR] [TD]11B [/TD] [TD]Infantryman (Grunt)[/TD] [TD]11B web page[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]11C[/TD] [TD]Indirect Fire Infantryman (Mortarman)[/TD] [TD]11C web page[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]11D [/TD] [TD]Armored Reconnaissance (Scout)[/TD] [TD]Coming Soon![/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]11E [/TD] [TD]Armored Crewman (Tanker)[/TD] [TD]11E web page[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]11H [/TD] [TD]Infantry Direct Fire Crewman[/TD] [TD]Coming Soon![/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] 19K (pronounced one niner kilo using the phonetic alphabet) is the Military Occupational Specialty (MOS) for the United States Army's M1 Armor Crewman (i.e. a crew member aboard an M1 Abrams tank). [h=2]Qualifications[/h] Physical demands rating and qualifications for initial award of MOS. One must possess the following qualifications: [*]Physical Demands Rating = Very heavy [*]Physical profile (The PULHES Factor) = 111121 or better [*]Correctable vision of 20/20 in one eye and 20/100 in other eye [*]Normal color vision [*]A minimum score, of 90 in aptitude area CO (ASVAB/GT score) [*]Formal training (completion of MOS 19K course conducted under the auspices of U.S. Army Armor School) mandatory [*]The highest rank an individual may reclassify into MOS 19K is rank of SGT (E-5).

sounds like the dust boot was damaged and possibly allowed the plunger to get gunked/corroded up, making it stick.. It shouldn't be a problem... UNTIL you need it again.. I'd shoot the plunger with some good quality penetrant (i.e. NOT WD40). Info of interest:

Hmm.. I'd have to look. If I do, it's gonna be one from my '96. Googled.. late model Dodge:

I'd love to run the Rickson 19.5s, but I just can't justify the up-front price.. Well, let me clarify.. I can justify it, I just can't swing it! - - - Updated - - - I have a dually, so these won't work for me, but here's a set of Ricksons with tires.. http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/pts/3188865523.html

Dunno when you got out, Hag, but AFAIK, the tankers have always been 19(x).. I was in from 80s-90s. I wore US tanker boots: as well as German Tanker boots:

thanks, alby.my '96 only had RWAL brakes. Does yours have 4WAL? I'd be surprised if it does.

Tanker boots!!And black berets at times.

LOL19E (M60A3), 19K (M1A1)From the Galaxy S3

hunnerd-n-forty dollars for a freakin boost gauge??? LOL

I'll most likely make myself a new one over the winter months..

This...

Usually a bad tps will cause erratic shifting. The most common symptom is the trans will shift in and out of overdrive, or the lockup torque converter will lock/unlock while cruising at steady speeds. It shouldn't cause a lack of rpm. You can check the throttle cable/linkage by having someone step on the throttle inside the truck and then see if you can move the linkage at the injection more to full throttle. If you can then the linkage needs to be adjusted. I have honestly never seen a throttle cable stretch. When they go bad they usually just break. If this occured after the recall, then maybe the tech did not adjust the linkage properly. Here is some information for you to check: [h=3]THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR[/h]The throttle position sensor (TPS) is used on diesel powered engines only when equipped with an automatic transmission and/or an Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system. If the TPS is to be replaced on a diesel engine, it must be tested/adjusted after replacement. [h=4]REMOVAL[/h] [*]Disconnect electrical connector on bottom of TPS [*]Remove two TPS mounting bolts. [*]Remove sensor from bracket. [h=4]INSTALLATION[/h] [*]Position TPS to mounting bracket. The electrical connector should be facing downward NOTE: The TPS is spring loaded. After positioning the TPS to its mounting bracket, rotate TPS on bracket in a counterclockwise direction until two bolt holes align. [*]Install and tighten two bolts. [*]Connect electrical connector on bottom of TPS. [*]Operate the throttle by hand to check for binding. [*]The TPS voltage must now be tested and (if necessary) adjusted. Refer to the following: [h=4]THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR TESTING/ADJUSTMENT[/h]CAUTION: Before attempting to test TPS, verify linkage adjustment dimension. This dimension MUST be 126.5 mm (5.0 inches) BEFORE testing. For linkage adjustment procedures, refer to Throttle Linkage Adjustment - Diesel Engine. CAUTION: Before testing TPS, verify that engine is set at correct low idle speed. Refer to Idle Speed Adjustment. [*]After confirming correct linkage adjustment and idle speed, proceed to the following: [*]Attach a paper clip into center terminal of TPS electrical connector. Do not remove connector from TPS for this test. [*]Attach positive lead of a voltmeter to this paper clip and negative lead to a good ground. [*]Turn ignition switch to ON position. Do not start engine. [*]The voltage at TPS center terminal should be 1.0 volt (±.2 volt) with linkage at idle position. At wide open throttle (WOT), output voltage must be 2.2-to-2.9 volts higher than at idle speed. If voltage is not correct, proceed to adjusting linkage. [*]The throttle lever rod connecting throttle lever to fuel injection pump lever is adjustable. To prevent damage to ends of linkage, attach locking-type pliers to flat located on throttle lever rod before loosening locknuts. [*]Loosen lever nut This nut is close to the flat. [*]Unsnap lever socket from lever [*]Slowly rotate the flat on linkage rod (lengthen or shorten) to achieve 1.0 volt (±.2 volts) on voltmeter with linkage in idle position. At wide open throttle (WOT), output voltage must be 2.2-to-2.9 volts higher than at idle speed. DO NOT lengthen or shorten linkage rod more than 1 mm from dimension shown in. If voltage requirements cannot be met by linkage adjustment (125.6 to 127.6 mm), replace TPS. [*]Tighten rod nut after adjustment. [*]With engine OFF, operate throttle from accelerator pedal and check for throttle lever action and binding. Be sure throttle lever stop is against low idle speed screw after throttle is released. [*]Be sure of wide open throttle (WOT) when accelerator pedal is pressed to the floor. This is checked by observing throttle lever break-over position. Proceed to the following: [*]Key OFF and engine OFF for this test. [*]Two people are needed for this test. From inside of vehicle, press accelerator pedal about half-way to floor. Movement of both throttle lever and throttle lever-to-injection pump lever linkage rod should be observed. [*]Continue to press accelerator pedal to floor. If throttle lever break-over is operating correctly, the throttle lever-to-injection pump lever linkage rod should have stopped moving while throttle lever continues to move towards rear of vehicle. [*]Again, check and verify low idle speed. Adjust if necessary.

These are the trees I grew up, cutting down.. Where I'm at now, I can only cut up downed stuff, so I rarely actually get to fell a tree.

I knew where you were going with it ;) But after my Edge Juice started flaking out, I'll now veer from "putting all my eggs in one basket" - Michael Nelson with relying on the Edge to be my gauges..

"my" method is to use a big dead blow hammer and whail on the sidewall of the tire...

I've had to beat the wheels off the hubs on my trucks more than once.. It's not really something new ;)Sometimes they just stick from time/corrosion on the hub...

are the cross-hatch marks still visible in the cylinder walls now? Are there any gouges or scratches in the wall(s)? If not, a simple quick-honing should suffice for new ring seating.

Welcome to the family! Now, fill out your signature.

So... you're fighting it, right?

This statement is not 100% accurate, but is more-so, an opinion My '97 still has original stereo and speakers, and it sounds great!... ...For what it is, which is stock, and 15 yrs old. Having been in the mobile audio/video industry, I can attest that the 2nd Gen factory radio with factory speakers will produce better sound quality with an RTA (Real Time Analyzer) than say, a Pioneer CD player with the OE speakers, or the OE radio with aftermarket speakers. Either way, you will lose much of the mid-base/mid-range driver quality. The OE stuff is designed to work together, as a set. Now, an aftermarket radio AND aftermarket speakers is a different animal, especially when combined with an amp.