Rogan

Boost – Be advised that upon initial start up, you will not register a boost “number.” It takes engine load to make exhaust flow; thus intake boost pressure. You will find the boost pressure will parallel the position of your accelerator pedal. Typical 60 mph, half-throttle boost number is 8 – 10 psi.Rule of thumb: every psi of boost equals 10 horsepower (i.e. 10 psi means you’re using 100 horsepower to motor down the road). Full throttle equals full boost. ‘94 – ‘97 trucks have a maximum boost specification of 15 – 18 psi. The 215 hp, ‘96 – ‘98 trucks have a maximum boost specification of 21 – 23 psi. The ‘98 – ‘02, 24-valve engines have a maximum boost specification of 20 psi. Pyrometer – As a guideline, do not exceed 1000˚ – 1050˚F with the pyrometer in a post turbo location such as the exhaust elbow or exhaust brake elbow. If you installed the pyrometer pre-turbo, in the exhaust manifold, do not exceed 1250˚ – 1300˚F. You will find the EGTs will parallel the position of your accelerator pedal. A typical 60 mph, half-throttle EGT number is 600˚ – 700˚F (probe location prior to the turbocharger). Readings are usually lower if the probe is located after the turbocharger. Be advised that the registered temperature reading will only be 250˚ – 350˚F (ambient air temperature and location of the sensor are the reasons for the variance) at initial start-up and idle. It takes engine load to make the EGT escalate. Transmission Temperature – The lower you can keep the temperature, the longer your transmission is likely to last. The oil viscosity starts to break down around 220˚F, and the transmission will be much happier below this point. Maximum oil temperature in the pan should not exceed 250˚F. If the temperature rises above this point, pull over and fast idle the engine in neutral for a few minutes to cool the transmission fluid. Courtesy: http://www.genosgarage.com Fuel Pressure VE: 3 to 10 psi at injector pump P7100: [*] 17-22PSI at idle [*] 25-35PSI at 2500RPM NO LOAD If your pressure drops below 25PSI at 2500RPM, it is time to diagnose why. VP44: [*]14-15psi with light engine load [*]2-3psi drop from normal under heavy loading [*]10psi minimum. Less than that, you're asking for a wallet hemorrhage [*]Overflow pressure bypass valve set to ~14psi CP3 (stock lift pump) [*]FP at idle 8-10PSI [*]Hwy cruising, 6-8psi [*]WOT acceleration, can drop to 1-2psi. (but would normally recover to about 3-4psi, if you stayed at WOT) (Subject to change for corrections)

If you're looking to stop the 'water-hammer' effect of the FPG, then I'd just order a snubber. I looked for the 'needle valve' setup locally, and came up empty. As well, your FPG sender should be a tapered 1/8" NPT (Natl. Pipe Thread), not IPT.. ...unless they've changes somewhere along the line. another option is to get a 3G fuel filter top that is tapped for the sender.. It's more expensive than a $20 snubber, however.. Snubber (built-in to banjo bolt) : http://www.genosgarage.com/CUMMINS-BANJO-SNUBBER-12MM-985-09/productinfo/BF-BBS010/ 3G Filter lid http://www.genosgarage.com/FUEL-FILTER-CAP-WITH-FUEL-PRESSURE-PORT-00-07-59L/productinfo/LT_FFCPP/

check shaft play, as well.. It should have some up/down/side/side movement, but very little, and the compressor fins should NOT contact the housing. Check in/out movement, as well. there should be none to very, very minimal movement when you move the center shaft/wheel in and out..My '01 has a very minute amount of oil in the turbo inlet. It shouldn't have any, but mileage and wear & tear will cause this in higher mileage turbos.

http://www.pacbrake.com/index.php?page=p67-loadleash

So, yeah.. I've got a 2002 CAR-MATE 8'W x 20'L enclosed trailer with the double doors on the back. It really doesn't work well for me, and what I use it for, but I only have $1300 in the trailer.If it had a ramp door on the back, I'd be in heaven, and wouldn't have to jack with ramps 10 times a day.I've found parts for them (greaseable hing pins and collars, 96" spring assembly, latches, etc.) but no doors or ideas for doing it, or even if it's cost-effective. Used trailers in this size (around here) are in the $4K-5K range, and mine just wouldn't really bring that, I think.Anyone have any suggestions or what-have-yous, concerning such a conversion?Thanks.Rogan

does it smoke?making any boost?

SG2 installed, as of Saturday.Speedo offset 0% (per GPS speed).Filled it up Sunday morning, entered info to begin calibration, now I'm waiting for fill-up #2 to fine-tune the calibration.

See pinouts..

I ask, because I was in AutoZone at lunch, looking for a replacement fuel pressure gauge (the Edge one no worky no mo) and:1. no gauge2. saw a SG2 hanging behind the counter. I started to drool a little..I think it was $159 ??dunno if it was x-gauge or whatever..

(just messin'...)

what does the x-gauge do for the 2gen 24v? anything?

it's ok, mike. mine, too, is horrid. well, maybe not AS bad...

Old, dead thread.buhai, if you do a write-up for the DPF delete (which is wonderful idea) create a new thread for it, please? Thanks!

this ^^^

you know, Randy... now that you mention the injector "knock"... I've noticed a lot more noise under the hood.. tapping, if you will.. I suspected valve lash, and planned on adjusting them this weekend.. But what you explain is EXACTLY (as a whole) what I am now experiencing... Thanks, I'll definitely press forward on getting some injectors now, first.

My truck, stock -mode, doesn't hardly smoke, other than a puff at cold startups, or a light hazing between gears. yours should not smoke through the gears.As for your 'check for a programmer', most-likely it doesn't, if you haven't seen a 'box'. usually check around the driver's side, engine bay area for a black box that doesn't look factory. Also check for splices at the MAP sensor on the left size of the engine, etc.

Here, I threw this together, since mike's penmanship looks like a chicken did it ;) http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4166&d=1339763562

What did you use to retain the actual bulb, housing-wise?Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2

Thoroughbred Diesel's "how-to" injector removal 24V http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=Si8r9ZutrGo&feature=related - - - Updated - - - sorry it's sideways, but whatever ... look in the mirror at the below video. Setting on 4, 3rd gear, 35mph, from off-throttle, rolling on it smoothly to about 1/4 - 3/8 throttle. the first plume is acceleration.. then I let off (smoke stops) then instantly puffs out more black as decel starts.. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-B2hPwyw7U&feature=plcp

3.55s is what is in my truck..

do they come with bracketry? If not, what do you use? (Mike's setup)

What is the 'average' life-cycle for an injector to operate properly? I realize there are hundreds of variables to take into account, but "on average", is it 100k mi? 120k? 150k?I'm starting this, due to the fact that I'm chasing down an issue with my truck, and ramhunter9 (Dave) and I spoke about this yesterday, for about 30 minutes or so.My truck has 180,000 on it, as of last weekend. I've been experiencing some mildly odd fuel issues, especially in the past six months. As you can see in my signature, I'm basically stock, with few minor mods:Edge Juice w/ Attitude + HotUnlockBoost Elbow5" exhaustBHAFFP is around 13-14psi WOT, 17-19psi no-loadRundown:I bought this truck about 2 yrs ago with 15x,xxx miles on it. When I first started driving it, the mileage was as follows:empty, 65-68mph, highway speed: 19-21mpgempty, under 50mph, city driving: 15-16mpgtowing, 60-65mph, 9000lb trailer: 14-15mpgtowing, under 50mph, city/rural: 13-14mpgoverall average miles per tank: 300-350Current scenario:empty, 65-68mph, highway speed: 15-17mpgempty, under 50mph, city driving: 12-14mpgtowing, 60-65mph, 9000lb trailer: 13-14mpgtowing, under 50mph, city/rural: 10-12mpgoverall average miles per tank: 260-290The fuel economy has been a semi-gradual decline over the past year. Fuel filters have been replaced, oil changed regularly, trans fluid/tcase/diff fluids changed. No binding or dragging of brakes, etc. Overall, everything seems normal or fine.cold startups in the morning yields a black puff of smoke, where it used to not do that.gear changes and initial accelerations in the next gear:Edge setting: 0: no smoke, maybe light haze1: same2: noticeable smoke3: very noticable4: trails smoke5: blacks out behind me6: insane 6% grade climb, 55-60mph, pulling trailer, 5th gear, ~20-24psi:2: light/noticeable smoke, EGT ~10003: noticable smoke, maybe little more than 2, EGT ~1000-11504: EGT > 1200, heavy smoke0, 1, 5, 6: Never pulled the grade in these settings.Dave and I think possibly I've got a bad/leaky/worn out injector, or multiples. I cannot reach anything above 30psi boost, and that's with the boost elbow completed closed, or very slightly open.I'm gonna freshen up my hx35w, and prepare and start collecting parts to go compound turbos, but in the meantime, I'm chasing this fuel economy decline, and such.

welcome home, Gamble ;)I saw the thread on CF and the pics of it and it's setup. Very interesting..

I am really thinking I'll just stick to the 35, and start gathering parts for a primary s47x addition. as for sticks (75s), I'll start looking. I just hate that I have these 155s that are not being used, and will need to spend an additional 3-500$ for a set of 75s.. Just thinking out loud, here. - - - Updated - - - images I found on DB site..