Quadzilla Power

it will also slip 100% when you are stopped and the truck is running. It will report 100% at a stop light or stop sign or in park or in nuetral. It is supposed to be 100% at those times or the truck would stall.

Yep. I just got word though that our developer is out until January Its going to take some time to fix this bug. Work around for now is to wait until after your done loading the tune then start cranking. Its stinky and I don't like it, but it should keep you from freezing on the app for this issue.

Honestly, we haven't figured out a good way to put it to level -1 or we would have done that. level 0 is reserved for stock stuff and would be too hard to change for everything.

Does it matter Android to iPhone or vice versa? or is it all Android to Android or Apple to Apple I know your exports are from Android @Me78569. @mossyoak71 is your device an iOS device or an Android device?

@Me78569 What do you have to edit in the custom tune in order for it to work properly?

Yep, check your vehicle profile like Me78569 said.

The clicking you hear are relays turning on and off because the Quad box cycles through the power stuff when first plugged in. It will turn on the ignition momentarily and it clicks the fuel pump on/off. If you don't like the clicking, just unplug the fuse tap while you plug the box in.

The amount of current draw depends on a bunch of things. The most current draw is going to be for the turbo timer. I would put a 10A resistor in there to start with. Just know that it could be as much as 20A through that circuit, which is just way too much over time. If you start to blow the 10A fuse a lot, then swap it for a 15A and see if it still works. If it is still blowing the 15A circuit, there could be something else going on. The battery supplies the power to the Quad box, the ignition sense / turbo-timer keep alive wire is just to sense when the ignition turns on and to power it when we run the turbo timer. The ignition line isn't meant to power the quad box, but it is an unfortunate side effect of the design. Basically, power is going backwards through a power fet in that case which isn't how it was meant to be.

All the variables (even ones with decimals) are passed as integers. There is just an offset multiplied into the number when passing that gets taken into consideration in the code. There aren't any floating point numbers passed from the app to the device. There are some inside the Adrenaline and probably some inside the app, but none in the interface.

Hey jrodgers, Try out the new beta version of the app here: http://quadzillatech.com/TunesDownloads/iPhoneApp/iQuadIOS(Apple)(1.9.42).ipa It won't fix the issue where you need to have an internet connection, that is just part of how the app operates. On the iphone, you need to disconnect from the iQuad by selecting your home WiFi or just turning off WiFi if you have data via the phone. Then open the app (after updating to this latest version) and select the vehicle profiles. From there, you can choose either the 2.5 version of the V2 Dodge 1998-2002 vehicle or the V2 Quadzilla Only Test 2 vehicle profile to get the other features unlocked. In the next couple of days this is going to migrate over to the standard vehicle and update it to V2.7. Then the Test2 vehicle profile will go away.

No worries. Anybody here running the iPhone version want to test the beta release of the app for us? You can download it here: http://quadzillatech.com/TunesDownloads/iPhoneApp/iQuadIOS(Apple)(1.9.42).ipa

Go into the settings and toggle it off/on and it will reset it.

Hi Idle will only work in power level 0 or in conjunction with warm-up mode. You need to either manually set the power level to 0 or also turn on the warm-up mode (which will set the power level to 0) for the temperature you want.

I'm pretty sure there is no difference between the standard (V1 tunes) and the V2 tunes for the high idle. You can always try flashing it back to see if the tune makes a difference. Honestly, I agree with Mopar1973man on this one.

I know for sure that if you have a factory high idle enabled (or programmed into the ECU with a programmer like Smarty) that the truck will die if you run our high idle. Especially if you run the 3-cylinder high-idle. For some reason the Quad and the ECU fight and can vapor lock the truck where you have to crack the lines to get it to start again. This site does have a good test to see if you have factory high idle enabled. If you don't then there is something else going on. For the 2nd issue, we will need to figure out what your tune is and see where potential issues are. Can you send us your tune parameters? -Thanks again,

Vehicle Selection - way too many V2 vehicles to choose from. --- You are 100% correct. One of the Quadzilla Only test versions is going to go away as soon as we get the version 2.7 stuff figured out properly. The other one is for testing purposes and will stick around. The other versions (not Quadzilla Only) should have been cleared up already, however, if they were already downloaded to your phone or tablet, they will still be there until you clear the data from the app (which also deletes all your tunes so be careful if you do this). This is further complicated by the 4k stuff. But for now, there should be 5 V2 vehicle profiles, one of which is going away. Modifying these to be in separate categories will be kind of a major change (similar to when we moved from /iquad/ to /iquadv2/). Once we get rid of the other V2 tunes, it shouldn't be a big deal. We will need to include better instructions about V2 stuff for new units in the box. menu Icon. -- I can't agree more. We have a tablet where the icon is relatively huge, way too huge frankly, then on my phone it looks tiny. Its easier to press the three button menu than the gear icon and not all devices have that option. I have requested the developer make changes to this multiple times, but it never seems to get done. I will ask again and provide better files for it when I can. Hidden timing feature is a tricky one. Already we have a hard time explaining all of the features. The hidden easy tune feature would make it easier for those and a toggle would make that easier, but implementing the toggle is where the hard part is. For now, I'm content to keep this a hidden feature available to those who take the time to search for answers from the forums. The one point of controversy that I have with the feature is that it could potentially be used unintentionally by the uninformed. However, ME made a good job of implementing strict protections around the values to keep the user from hurting himself when using this method.

That is problematic. Double check that you have power going to the iQuad. Check the red line in the 4-pin connector for 5v with the key on/ engine off. If you have 5v there it should be broadcasting a signal. If not, something else is going on.

@Dodgeih - Not getting the quad to connect to the computer happens to us quite often, especially on a certain machine. I'm not sure why but it has something to do with the USB drivers and chips. We often have to reboot that one machine in order to get the Quad connected to it again. You also may have to re-enable unsigned drivers in order to get it to work properly. The app update for the iOS stuff broke something, so we are rolling back some changes. Hopefully we will have something to test here pretty soon.

Its hard to set the default to 12, maybe impossible. We can set the default in the code itself, but when you connect the app it wants to write a value down if it is set. We might need to set the app up to actually read what is there first and use that as the default. I though it was supposed to do that, but it may not be doing that. EDIT: That idea won't work either. The app automagically writes the settings down at connection to make sure that they are there. I think it chooses the minimum value as the defaults all the time. This bears more thinking.

We are working on the final changes for the iOS app. I wanted it exactly like the Android app, but that is proving ill-advised. (Meaning we broke something and need to put it back right). It will be a little different. When we release the 2.7 officially (probably today actually) we will update the vehicle profile to show that other stuff and give you those offsets. I am a little concerned about it. I know that the members who frequent these forums are well informed and knowledgeable, but I am concerned about the folks who just want to "send it" . The concern is about the boost offset. Dodgeih, since you updated to the tune that ME posted, you should change your vehicle profile to the V2 Quadzilla Only Test 2 vehicle to get access to the new settings and gauges. (At least until we update the standard profile to V2.7). Is the method to set the boost offset intuitive or will it require further explanation? Basically, if you read some psi of boost at idle you need to check 2 things. First, make sure that your jumper is set correctly for your year of vehicle as explaine here: http://quadzillapower.com/after-market-adrenaline/#VP44Trucks After you are sure of that, you will want to set the boost offset. Since the minimum is 10, set it to 10 and read the boost at idle, then add that number to the offset to get it to the right spot. Setting it to 0 was awful in that it read at 12 PSI at idle and ran rough and smoked like crazy, so we set the minimum to 10 to keep people from having it set to 0 by default. Basically, it adds a step of setup to the process. Do y'all think that is OK or is it something that will cause too many headaches?

Well that is just fantastic. (how to you turn on the sarcastic font? )

Well, I know somebody that can help get that rectified ...

Try to plug that sensor into the Adrenaline and read your Fuel pressure. I would be very surprised if you got a correct fuel pressure. Usually its 3.3x higher than reality.

Not at this point. We are working on something that will enable measureing those as well but we don't have them in production yet. It will be some time. -thanks again,