AlpineRAM

I cleaned my motor and put in new bearings, from some R/C model IIRC, and the fan lasts some years since then. It usually overloads the resistor if the fan bearing gets hard to turn, increasing the amperage on the motor..

This looks like the blower motor resistor- easily swapped even without removing the dash and hvac stuff. I would check the connectors first, maybe you did not plug it in correctly.

Found one on ebay Germany. Reasonable shipping and no customs duties. The part No. is 04720279AB if you need one. Thanks!

Well, wrecking yard with a Dodge in Austria will be difficult- and the dealers over here do not supply spare parts... I'll try to contact a dealer stateside. Thanks!

Hi folks, I am looking for the vac. actuator that opens the dash vents on a 97 Dodge Ram - it's the one with the yellow vac line. This one munched it's diaphragm and I need a new one. Anybody got an idea as to where to get it for a reasonable price? Thanks!

OK, sorry, should have said connected on pin3 ECM side.. As Mopar1973Man, brantcummins and Haggar correctly observed. Have some experience with buggered shielding on slightly bigger wiring- mainly power bus on 50kW frequency controllers... do the shielding in an alternative way and you know where the term "sparky" comes from...

I seem to be late for the party For the 4cyl version in English https://vrcustoms.wordpress.com/2015/05/18/vp-44-electronic-module-repair-opel-2-0-dti-x20dtly20dtl/ and here

I have one, and it aids the truck not to hoover up gravel roads into the rad at low speeds at high rpm.

The wire strands are the shielding of the VP44 datalink to the ECM. Needs to be there, needs to be connected to pin 3 according to diagram.

Take a ruler and mark 5.2" from the top of a legal pad. Cut a stripe of about 1/2" from the right top to the mark you made. Hold bolt flange to top of legal pad. Over here I check them in metric measurements, and use an A4 pad. I never got the right Cummins gauge in any set I bought. I prefer to use the stock measurements as per cummins and grind away the same amount as I removed when resurfacing the head and I mark the bolt as shortened with the letter S on the head. (So nobody uses the gauge to check a shortened bolt)

P0123 TPS A high P1694 No message from powertrain control module. Sounds like a wiring issue to me, but check all the fuses first.. The diesels are a bit strange because there is the PCM like in the gassers and also the ECM on the engine. If they do not communicate correctly the VP44 will be told not to inject fuel. The "hotwire" test lets you start the engine without any involvement of ECM and PCM.

Do you have gauges? I know, not free, don't add power... but keep your engine safe.. Then you can do the governor washer mod.. ok not really free but 2pcs 1/2" washer are cheap. Different forum About air- bailing wire to the wastegate (almost free) to get the boost up- or get either an adjustable elbow (cheap) or a regulator to control your wastegate. And: You assume the full responsibility for any of these mentioned modifications. I am in no way to be held liable if your truck explodes, hurts people or gets you into trouble for environmental issues.

Yep- you need 22 units of mass of air to burn 1 unit of mass of diesel cleanly and make power. More air than is needed to burn the fuel is the standard operating situation of your truck. (But you do not need to buy air..) More fuel than there is air to burn it- simple waste. goes out the exhaust with no power added. So, without a plate you will need to add air to get your fuel to burn. Personally I prefer to set things up with a plate and a governor spring kit- you get the revs and the plate and AFC take care of the max fueling, giving good drieveability and decent fuel economy, and no excuse for the environmentalists to point their "green" fingers at me.

Cool that the UK hates diesels for soot or particulate matter while the DI gassers emit much more of it.. NOx as the red flag in the other countries is understandable, but with SCR cat tech it can be reduced to almost nil... if the car manufacturers do not cheat (I'm looking at you Volkswagen!)

In th UK diesel is a bit (about 4%) more expensive than petrol. In Austria petrol is about 6-7% more expensive than diesel. (Except for some strange fluctuations sometimes- mostly for advertising purposes) But for both we are close to 6 US$/gal, and the poor sods in the UK are closer to 6.50 US$/gal of diesel. Still, if you drive much the diesel is economically viable due to the better mileage. The new turbo direct injection gassers start to change that game though..