Alexio Auditore

So what is this alternator rated for amps compared to the stock one? Did you also have to change any other wiring from the alternator besides what you mentioned above or is stock setup good enough to handle this one? And what does a nation's alternator cost compared to the typical stock rebuilds? I'm glad to hear your truck is running better.

I just reconnected the grid heaters. It's just a night and day difference for starting. Smokes like a locomotive when not connected for about 30 seconds, barely a haze when when it is connected.

I wonder if they even changed anything then and he was b.s.ing me

I would NOT get a raptor. Just my . I'll be doing a mechanical hopefully this year, I'm kinda hoping my raptor will crap out and then I can get another under warranty.( I talked to a sales rep for raptor at alligator diesels dyno event last fall and told him the issues I'm having, which he brushed off. he said they changed a diaphram internally, but that means little to nothing to me.)Plus with a mechanical pump, the raptor is only used to prime the system, or so im told.

Same here. It's only 45 degrees or so today. I'd say starter is stock. I've never replaced it. Just did the contacts inside a couple years ago, and man it made a difference. Batteries are maybe 3 years old too.

Is it cold where your at? Also, after its warm, it turns on and off like it would on a warm day.

Maybe I'm wrong? Is yours disconnected at battery or elsewhere?

Yes, I believe it's because its controlled by the ECM which tells it to turn on. So it stays on as long as it would if connected, but all depends on the temperature outside. So this morning it was on as long as it normally is at 36 degrees. Can't you put a switch where it connects to the battery? Then your not splicing into electrical lines that way right? (I'm electronically retarded so don't mind the stupid questions) Mine smokes for only a minute, once its warm, there is no haze either. If it was compression issues like mopar1973man said I could be, wouldn't it smoke all the time? And have other symptoms with it too?

What about with grids connected and start up on first crank? I mean it fires right up no problem everytime. A couple years ago I replaced the contacts in starter because they were badly worn and caused my starter to stick on till I disconnected the batteries. It made a huge difference in how it started too

So 2 days ago, I disconnected my grid heaters after testing ac noise. Which was .034 after using them all winter. Now the wait to start comes on like normal, I turn truck over it's barely stars and then dies.so I turn it over again, get it to idle, and its puffying out white and blue smoke like a train from exhaust. Temperature was 36 at 7am when I started it. I disconnected grid heaters at battery like it was suggested so as to not throw codes. I feel like I should just reconnect the grids back up, i haven't replaced a alternator yet since i have had the truck for 6years. When i use them truck fires up first crank with just a haze of blue till it warms up.

I know what you mean. To be honest, I am better off spending money else where, but if the opportunity came and I had extra money saved up, it would be a nice upgrade, even if it's the front seats only. I have leather now, well it's a hybrid, half leather, half cloth, kinda weird. Leather is shot, super hard, previous owner didn't condition well. I'll keep an eye out and an ear to the ground, maybe a good deal will show up. But if anyone else has done something like katzkin or a leather upgradr let me know.

So quiet. Has no one reupholstered there seats? What would be a good price for full leather? Supposedly katzkin does front seats, center, and back bench.

Well, I'm not sure on price, someone quoted me over 3 grand once using cow hide. I thought that was outrageous. I would order whatever new foam I could, bottom part at the least

I think I was impatient, but I knew I was going to line x it so scraping paint wasn't a big deal to me

Line x was Gonnaa charge 8 hrs labor, so I did it myself The secret........is..........a heat gun....a paint scrapper.....and time. I think it took me 4 hours. You will scrape paint , but it all gets line x anyway, just be careful not to scrape a part that doesn't get it.

I line x mine. It had the chrome panels on the bottom, and they were marked up pretty bad. It was a bear to get off, but the line x looks so much better and durable. Covered old rock chips and all too

So I was wanting to get new leather seats for my truck. The katzkin leather I heard is popular, it's a kit that just pulls over the seat i believe, a dealer would install it for 1600 buck, that's material cost and labor . Anybody done this to there truck before? Does it seem to good to be true, maybe cheap product or something else? Also leatherseats.com has some nice looking seats you can make for 1300bucks, not including install.

It's weird how sporadic the numbers are on your alternator test. If it's truly like that, it seems the alternator is bad. The 1693 code will always show when another code is thrown, but its telling you there are other codes. So the two codes, have you looked into those yet?

So new grid heaters or disconnecting them seems to be the solution?

Could you have a rear main seal leak too?

So I know it's been said before about the grid heaters, but are we sure that's what the problem mainly is? What's going bad on these heaters after years of use? Elements, relays, ??

Is it just me, or have there been close to a dozen ECM failures over the past month or two?

What are the Torque specs?

I usually fill the old filter before installing it, that's about a quart, so it ends up being 11 instead of the 10 they say is required.

I'm in the same boat, but only loose about a quart every 3 to 4k miles, but its messy under there. You either drop the tranny, or you can lift the motor slightly, but take the shroud off the radiator, maybe even the whole radiator needs to come out or the fan hits it. I want to do it. But it's a process.