Alexio Auditore

Thanks @dripley. Elecrtical and ac are the devil to me lol. I hope I'm not coming off as being rude, I just mean for someone like me, the difference between just getting the heatercore done in a day or so maybe worth it taking the shortcut in comparison to getting a shop to take my truck in at a appointed time that works for them to discharge a system, while only having the weekend off, then knowing that its gonna take me a good 2 or 3 days, maybe longer if I run into issues doing the whole system, then having work Monday, hoping the truck is back together because its my D.D., and have to make a follow up appointment to get the truck back in for an ac recharge plus the charge. No doubt, most of us run into that issue of time. I should say if you have the means, do the whole box while your at it, but if not and you are faced with a leak or something like that, then the shortcut maybe the better way, then maybe down the road, get in there and finish the rest of the cleaning and checking the system out. Just my thought, I hate doing it half hearted or even doing it twice, but time may not be on one's side, and like was pointed out too, dodge did a crappy job of designing these things to be replaced easier. Not trying to ruffle any feathers, no pun intended dripley?. Hoping to get a call back from the shop soon to price it out. Let you know soon. Just got off the phone with the shop, so its about 150 bucks to discharge, store and recharge. Plus they'll check for leaks too. Each shop is different, but its a good estimate I guess what to keep in mind.

I remember just doing the dash about 6 or 7 years ago. I spent 8 hrs from start to finish, and that was just the dash....admittedly I had a extra screw or 2 left over, could be the ones that were already loose in my head, bit no way for me to tell, and I take longer than most when it comes to even simple jobs. I'd say if your dash is cracked, it's definitely as good a time as ever to replace it while working on hvac stuff, especially if your going to tear the whole hvac unit out. I'm probably going to do the shortcut way personally, its not that I think mopar1973man is wrong, in fact that is probably the smartest way to do it, especially with the trucks age and debris that makes its way down into the hvac system. But the extra time is a problem for a lot of people,(maybe not as bad currently with this pandemic) but that extra money maybe what we can't spare. I've been without sufficient heat for 2 winters now, and the windows in the truck fog up bad and smells a little coolanty(new word). AC is still cold ? This being said, I'm gonna call a local shop i trust and ask them if they discharge hvac systems and how much they'd charge to store and refill. Ill let you guys know how much that may cost. What about replacing the o rings on the refrigerant lines that you mentioned @Mopar1973Man? Where would I get these and how many of them are there? Would this be a good time to just go ahead and do the heater treater mod also, even if its not broken?

so I have a question for @KATOOM, I saw on another forum the idea in just replacing the heater core without removing the whole box. Someone suggested cutting the lines before they go into the firewall, and then re-connecting the lines together with heater hose(⅝ inch if i saw correct) with doubled up spring clamps. Most do not have the means or time to discharge or recharge the ac unit, plus whatever the cost may end up being. I saw that you had done this on your heater core. Did it hold up? Any leaks or other unforseen problems? ⅝ heater hose right? I have new copper non swivels, so no chance to jam that in there. Mine is leaking, so its time for replacement. I know this isn't the proper way to so this, I'm aware, but this could save a decent amount of time, and if it works, then why not this way? My ac still blows cold. It maybe partly bocked, but for now, it works good. Unless there is another KATOOM lurking around other forums, I hope I'm asking the right one lol.

@dripley, do you remember how much the ac evaporator was? Genos has one for 337 bucks! Yikes. But rockauto is between 38 to 50 bucks, depending on what you choose. Is there a reason for such a drastic difference in price?? what about discharging the AC safely?

Yes, I will be doing that too, thanks. I think orileys has one I can get. Is there a special powersteering fluid I should be aware of?

Thanks @Joe_Pool ill definitely not be using atf fluid on the powersteering, especially a brand new one. I was under the assumption that just using any powersteering fluid would be ok. (Its hydroboost) I'm thinking of just a synthetic, maybe the redline, or just valveoline. Will be cleaning out the old lines and steering box beforehand too.

@Tractorman, id say the most difficult thing is just making sure the the seal is pulled in straight. having another person helps too so they can see underneath the truck how its going in.. i had to pop it back out once actually(as gently as possible.) because it was going in at a angle. I would make sure to have that axle bushing on hand or easily obtainable from a store too in case you see that yours is worn or broken. Easy to replace, difficult to get lol

Thanks @Dieselfuture. I literally have to research it to death, then work myself up to doing the job. I tend to greatly over think things. Powersteering is next (and vacuum pump reseal), so time to get pumped up lol

Hey guys, I'd figure i would give an update to the axle seal situation since I got it done. I'll just say it sucks, and hats off to those who can some how knock it out in an hour or two. I forgot about this thread, sorry about starting the other one about powersteering pump brands, should've asked on this one. I went with a borgeson through genos garage, and plan to install it next week weather permitting. I'll let you know how it goes and if any problems with it. I also bought the CAD kit because the housing was going to be taken off to get to the axle seal anyway. The CAD (central axel disconnect) rebuild kit is pretty straight forward. The clips are a bear to get out and put back in, but otherwise its really simple when you have it in front of you as to what goes where. Take a picture so you know the correct way the fork goes in when you put it back together. Mine had a bad vacuum leak, so I'm glad I did this since I had it apart. Its a 100 bucks, but it is what it is, 260k miles is a long time for those things to last. You need a puller to get the new seal into the tube. *if you wanted to, you could buy a puller kit, but it's over a 100 bucks, and usually needs to be ordered. Parts stores didn't have anything that would have worked for this. torqueking.com has thts. I used a ¼thick steel plate on the outside of the axel tube with a hole drilled in the center and the all thread with the nut and washers to act as a puller to suck the new seal it. I ended up moving the plate to the steering kuckle later (make sure steering wheel is straight) so that I could see inside the tube if the seal was going in straight or not. It tends to not want to go in straight, just an fyi. I greased the outside metal of the new seal to make it go smoother, it doesnt seem to help much, but I'm sure it made some difference. There is a lip in the tube housing that will eventually stop the seal from moving forward. The old seal wasn't near that lip. The last picture shows the lip a bit more clearly without the axel seal. You can see where the old seal didn't go up against the lip all the way. Important note. There is a bushing on the outside half of the axel shaft. You can see in the pics the male end in the housing, the female end is the outside one. (Pics below) The bushing goes into the female end. Finding the part was a bit difficult, not a lot of info out there that I could find, but here is the part #. Spicer 43337- it was special order. Looks like Amazon has it too. Parts: --CAD kit -parts store or torqueking.com --½inch all thread 6 ft long, 2 nuts, 2 washers minimum and a steel plate(home cheapo has it all) --2⅝hole saw( you'll have to shorten it to fit in the housing.) This pulls the seal forward. --Axle seal napa 19208 (doesn't have to be napa) --Spicer 43337 axel disconnect inner bushing

From what I remember reading on here, they are set for there own truck. I believe there is a very small possibility that you can switch them and they work interchangeably, but I believe there Vin numbers have to match closely, and there are alot out there. @Mopar1973Man I believe can answer this question much better than I can.

I did. They repaired it again, it went out again. They were very helpful and reimbursed me for it all. I would recommend module Master just for the fact that they were very helpful, even tho my module is just a bigger piece of crap than everyone else's, or that something else on the truck is causing it to go bad. But again to answer @TheGreatWhite, you can drive without the module, you just won't have some of your gauge cluster or miles working while you get it repaired.

I haven't. When I got it back the first time, I installed it the night before, on my way to work about 5 min into the drove I could hear the motor running again. Abs and brake light on.

You can still drive the truck, but your speedometer and odometer will no longer work. I think the tachometer still worked if I remember correctly.(easier to gauge speed with manual transmission and engine sound per gear for the speed I need to travel) Unfortunately mine still buzzes to this day, after sending it in twice. Module masters customer service was amazing. They didn't charge me to send it back for the 2nd fix, and then they reimbursed me for initial fix after the 2nd fix didn't work. I wish it worked, but something else must be causing mine to fry when I reinstall it back into the truck.

So I'm finally getting around to the pump that's been leaking a while now, (much more time on my hands) but I'm faced with a bunch of options to choose from. I dont want buy a cheap remanufactured just to keep replacing the pump, but are the "new" ones any more reliable? Napa brand Part #381058n 240 dollars for pump and resivor, no idea what the real brand is Comes without resivor, 35 dollars cheaper Advanced Auto Part # 96-8002 300 dollars for Cardone brand, cant find a lot of reviews on this either, manager said they started carrying it in the fall. Anyone use this? A bit more expensive. Borgeson (the problem child) # BORG-800328 About 180 bucks, can get either through amazon, (bad reviews) or Genos Garage (better reviews) says it is a new unit as well. At this point, 260k miles, leaking, and the oil smells burnt and metallic, I need to just replace the unit. Any advice would be appreciated, I'm looking at the cardone one, but it's a bit more expensive, and may not be any better than most.

There is a guy up here who's been doing this for a few years now. Really nice looking, you wouldn't even know they were stacks either unless you saw the name on the headache rack. Stack'd Racks, he does other things too, like custom bumpers I believe. Lots of pics on his site and his facebook.

So I bought a 1200 dollar asus gaming laptop, nice specs at the time, really havent used it for very much, only go onto trusted websites, and only played 2 games with it. Nothing crazy. But after a year, it slowed down a lot, and was just getting weird everytime I used it, eventually I wasn't able to get onto internet explorer, the icons wouldn't respond, that and things were disappearing from my home screen. Just bizarre. No viruses, malwarbytes didnt find anything, I recently did a factory reset, and it is running much better. From what I understand, your lucky to get a couple years out of a laptop. If I could do it all over again, I would buy a desktop computer. Laptops are great for mobility and convenience, but unless my job was dependent on it, I use my tablet and phone for everything pretty much, and the laptop for some games and Microsoft word. If you use it for forums and what not, I would just get a nicer tablet. I have a samsung tab s4, and it works great and runs smooth.(plus the s-pen is nice) you can even get a keyboard case and all that jazz for it, and it wont cost 800 bucks. That's just my 2 cents, I'm no expert for laptops or computers by any means, in the end they're just expensive money pits.

No, it's the axle tube seal

I'll probably be replacing the lines too I dont know if this is all the lines here, but it looks like it.BORG-925117 on genos or amazon. As for the steering box, I'm not doing that quite yet. But maybe the spring. Either red head or blue top, but blue top looks like it's got a huge back order for our style of trucks last I checked. Again, I think my powersteering pump is about done. Its smells burnt, groans like a bear, and leaks a lot too. So there may be damage already done. But the axel seal........

Hey guys. Sorry to write another thread, but I'm needing to get some things fixed and need a little help. 1st: powersteering pump. So Genos garage has a new, not rebuilt borgeson steering pump for my truck. I believe its 800328. I've thought about just resealing mine, but there is more going on to it than I think a re-seal will do. Fluids smell burnt, its leaking, and it whines and groans prett bad, especially in the morning. 258k miles I'm sure it's about done. They have the same pump on amazon, but the reviews arent pretty. So I'm not sure what to do here, I dont want to take a risk and buy a piece of crap. While it's out, I'll be re-sealing the vacuum pump. Also, what is a good steering fluid to use in the new pump? 2nd: axel seal So when I had my ball joints done, I was going to have my axel seal done too while he was at it. But he told me I have the wrong part. I made sure at napa it was the axel with the CAD, but when looking online at torque king .com, it doesnt look the same. I've included a pic of napas for some help clarifying too. Also, the torque king has the CAD seal too, NAPA didnt. https://torqueking.com/product/4631/qk4631-cad-side-front-inner-axle-seal-tool-kit-1988-2001-dodge/ What are your guys thoughts? My pump is leaking quite a bit just sitting over the weekend, I need to get it done soon. Thanks for the continued help.

They said they fixed and tested it there(not sure how) that it passed both times. I think it could be something on the trucks end. I dont know what could cause it to fail, it works for a few minutes, then fails(abs motor keeps running and lights come on. ) I'm no electrical expert by any means, but maybe something with the lines going into the the module itself? Power surge? No idea really. They mentioned something about the mosfet. And they gave me my money back, and said that sometimes these things are just bad. (Again, I'm no electrical expert). They're only like 80 miles south of where I live, maybe i should go pick their brain a bit more, but at this point, it is what it is. They were pleasant to deal with. Side note, the truck does the noise change even prior to being warmed up. Did it this morning driving through town , hadn't reached operating temp yet. But it's usually 5 min or so into driving in the morning. Its oddly random. Could be a VP thing? Almost 260k, and I think it's a stock vp too.

Ya. I got a fluke. I'll test it again, but it's not the reason the module keeps going out. I tested before and after it kept going out. No change

Ac noise was acceptable, but I haven't checked for a while. It does have an aftermarket raptor lift pump, I havent traced the wire to see where it runs. I'll have to look.

sorry, didnt know that. My dad's 99 I think only has rear wheel abs I think, thought that's what you meant. I had module masters in moscow fix it..twice. same place mopar1973man had his fixed. They refunded me everything too since it kept failing. It worked for maybe 5min, then the lights came on and the motor kept running.

Abs light is yellow, red brake light is also on too. Its 4 wheel abs, and the module is the thing that goes out, I have to disconnect it so it doesnt run the small motor continuously..whether the truck is on or off it continues running.

I had at one point disconnected the EZ chip because of this very reason, but I dont recall it making a difference.. usually it only last maybe 15 seconds, then goes back to sounding rattly and pingy like normal. It's crazy how quite the motor sounds though when it's doing this. Sounds really good actually, like clean. I'm not to worried about it, but it is interesting that it does this, and seems like not a common occurrence.