Alexio Auditore

I'll get back with the f.p. here shortly, gotta run up north from here... As far as the quad leading to vp death, its not that it would just cause it to die after install, but pushing that much more power through a 19 year old vp.....idk man, may just wait till this one poops out you know.

I've considered the quad, but I do believe it will be the straw that breaks the camels back as far as the vp goes. 266k miles on the vp, I want it to last as long as I can. Plus, the quad adrenaline seems overwhelming for someone who does have a full understanding of the the timing curves and all that other jazz. But either way, I have to figure out the miss first...it could be the ez, but not sure yet.

Checked the temps after work today, both were only a degree off from eachother. So I'm thinking its fine.. Winter fronts, is that the cover you throw over the grill or radiator? Heres a question that has never been asked on this website, if injectors are the issue, what do you guys recommend?

Thanks everyone for the responses. Somethings on these trucks are odd, I haven't noticed a dip in fuel mileage or power, but sometimes that doesn't mean something isn't wrong. Ill probably start looking into injectors... any tips on what I should get? I believe these are after market sticks to begin with. I'll let you guys know what ends up happening, but it maybe a bit, if it gets worse, which it seems to be, ill have to do something sooner than later. Could a sensor be screwing with my timing? Does Intake temp sensor mess with timing? Currently, im sitting between 360-400hp with chip on 3. These are numbers from the dyno at Alligator's Hunting For Horsepower, 400hp 8 years ago, 360 about 3 years ago. There dyno is kinda meh, so its around there. Supposedly they were 60 hp sticks

Ya, clean terminals, w.t. mod done. Maybe it has something to do with the timing.. could be the edge ez, or something that effects the timing like the air temp? Its been cool up here, and like I said, I don't remember it doing this a couple months back when the weather was warmer.... Edge ez has been in for 8 years

So, for a while, I thought maybe I was breaking traction in the high gears, 5th and 6th, when I would pour the coal to it, usually the roads were a little wet, so I couldn't confirm for sure, but I had my doubts. Saturday, my wife and I are driving home, I hit the free way, trucks warmed up to temp, and I accelerate like normal to merge up to speed, but I could definitely tell something felt off. Under normal driving, I dont notice the truck missing or stuttering at all, like cruising speeds,, but when I lay into it pretty good, it has what I can only describe as a miss, but the truck doesn't sound like it's missing. You just feel it, even my wife said she noticed it. I slowed down and couple times and sped up quick, and would get the same thing to happen. Its hard to do in the lower gears, 5th and 6th I have more rpm range to test it, but what could it be? No codes Clutch has 80k or so on it, southbend Injectors are God knows how old, so there's another possibility. Fuel pressure does what its done for years, it drops, but not enough to starve to i.p. Any other ideas? If its injectors, then I'll probably do those along with getting the head surfaced( leaking coolant from passenger side)

Genos has them a bit cheaper at 53 bucks. Probably the route I'd go. No repeated issue thus far tho. Still waiting.. https://www.genosgarage.com/product/dodge-ram-cummins-grid-heater-relays-with-bracket-dorman-904308/winter

I pretty much do the same as you @mopar1973man. If its cold cold, I'll jump the rpms up to just below 1100 for a minute or 2 before i take off. Grids shut off after I hit 20, all is good. So ill keep an eye on the grids sticking on at random, ill try tapping the relay if it happens again, and then go from there. I dont thing relays are to expensive to replace right?

@That Guy-mid 30s in the morning. ill try tapping the relays next time it happens.. as for the grids not shutting off when i idle it higher, im not sure what the deal is. Its done that since I noticed it a few years back.. this is from this morning. Above freezing, probably around 35 this morning. Idles fine, but add rpm(past 1100 or so) stays on until I let off the pedal. I had to cut the video to make it fit, but I had it idled there for about 10 seconds when the video starts. 20201119_070601_2.mp4

This morning, I was in the drive through to pick up a coffee. I shut truck off so they could hear me through the intercom, and then turned truck on and waited in line. I could hear the grids turning off and on like normal. After a couple minutes, I hear it engage one last time l, but didn't hear the truck return to normal(still sounded like there was an electrical load.) Sure enough, im watching my volt meter drop and not go back to normal. Waited about a minute and then shut the truck off. turned it back on, no issues. Grids cycled and everything was good. Does this sound like a relay problem? Also id like to ask you guys this question. So if i let my truck warm up a few minutes while I sit in it, I manually raise the rpms(somebody needs a high idle kit🙂) if I go above 1100 or so rpms, the grid heaters kick on and stay on until it detects the rpms are back at idle, then it cycles normally. Is this a normal thing?

I have gone through 2 sets of glowshifts since I've owned the truck. They were cool looking since you can change the colors, but after a year or 2, they would start freaking out and not working properly. The needle would randomly peg out jumping all over the place. I ordered a boost gauge from them, and it rattled badly from the first drive. Sent it back, they called me and said there was nothing wrong with it, and that it only rattled on my end because I had it tapped into the intake elbow.......really? Because the last boost gauge I had of theres worked fine all the way up until it just crapped out....They Charged me a re- stocking fee for a defective gauge, and I will never buy from them again. Horrible customer support. I've been slowly building up an isspro collection as well. Expensive, but I've got to say, my fuel pressure gauge (ev2) is almost 8 years old, and I still dont have a snubber on it yet, so it works hard and has taken the fuel pressure spikes for a long time. Im impressed with Isspro for sure.

Funny you mention this, mine started intermittently not working as well just recently. I believe it's the multifunction switch that needs to be replaced. I ordered one off 1aauto. About 30 bucks cheaper than the auto parts store. (37 dollars i think was the price?)https://www.1aauto.com/dodge-jeep-chrysler-plymouth-combination-switch-diy-solutions/i/1azts00007/474507/2001 But now that i have the new one here at home, the blinker is working like there was nothing wrong to begin with. So now I wait..... I think there is a fuse or relay you can check as well.

I've had the clutch for about 100k miles, it's still rough as all get out. Its a Southbend clutch, but like I said, it was rough before the new clutch as well. Do some track bars that you order account for some axel movement? Or are they all stiff? Appreciate the info thus far, thanks.

I have not seen a lot of info on these, so I thought I'd ask you guys. Will I see any benefit in putting traction bars on my truck? I know they keep the rear axle from twisting, not that I do burns outs and stuff, but I've heard it helps a lot with washboard roads and smoother take off with the clutch from a stop. Ive gotten used to it, but man there are still times the clutch likes to shake the crap out of you, usually when reversing up a slight hill (It has done this before and after a new clutch.) What are the benefits? If im towing of hauling a heavy load, is there anything I need to keep in mind in regards to the bars? Like are there situations where they need to be disconnected for some reason. I'm not a big suspension guy, so pardon me if these questions are dumb....im stock height with 265 tires, and I'll be keeping it this way.

Not to throw a wrench in it, but unless he drives around at wot at all times, there is no way that is what caused his to fail. Ive been running the standard fuel line up to the lift pump(Raptor 100), with ½ inch lines from there to filter, and ⅜ inch to the vp, and still only have 8-10psi at wot. Been this way for almost nine years, and I believe its the factory vp44 at 262k miles. I cruise 65-70 at 15psi. By all means, if you can keep psi above 14 at all times, then do it especially if you drive it like you stole it all the time, but dipping down below it for short burst, especially only down to 12, i think that is pretty good. I agree with the guys above, sounds like it was a bad vp from the start. I think its recommended on this forum to work the vp hard the first year(under warranty ) because if its going to fail, it should fail quick.

Does that option show up? Click to choose file..

What is the fuel pressure normally at idle, cruising on the highway, and shortly after? Do you know if the pressure is super low just before the truck starts to shut down? My first one failed after only 4 years, and for whatever reason I threw another one on there, been running good since, but time will tell.

If one were to order these headlights pre assembled, what options would you recommend on the headlights? I know some of it is personal taste, like the chrome or black housing, etc, but stuff like the Kelvin, projector option, so on?

$9800?! Leather, below 100k miles, 6sp! Thats a steal right there!

Something similar happened on mine, the lift pump just stopped working properly. the truck started shuttering real bad in town. Turned truck off then back on, ran fine for a bout 10 seconds, normal fuel pressure, then dropped to 0, lift pump stopped working again. Turned out to be a bad lift pump, raptor 100, only 4 years old. Im glad it didn't push the vp 44 over the edge... Its vital that you get a fuel pressure gauge on your truck when you can. Your lift pump can still "run" but may not be supplying adequate fuel pressure.

Check engine light on? Do you have a way to read codes? Does your lift pump sound like it is turning on and running when you bump the starter?

Mine was doing something similar, stock apps. After resetting it, it was nice and smooth for a couple days, then went back to having to push the go pedal more to accelerate normally. Knew it was a problem when I had it in first gear going up a hill, I was accelerating and it suddenly would hit a flat spot in acceleration, like I wasn't giving it enough juice to keep climbing rpms until I pushed the pedal harder. Used the green obd scanner when it happened and I could see in the graph it was like it hit a plateau. No codes were given, no dead pedal like others experience, just a weird "flat spot" in acceleration. Replaced with timbo, no problem since. Been great!

Interesting. Does the sensor do anything when the temp gets to high? Like telling the computer to stop charging if it is over charging a battery? That Makes sense about the monitoring for the proper abient conditions for the life of the battery.

Ok. So what I'm understanding is that your battery temp sensor is worthless half the time? If the passenger battery fails on any scenario, better pray you notice it before it and your alternator get super hot and either fail completely or catch on fire?

Question from a electrical dummy. If the charge cable was still on the driver battery, but the shorted cell was on the passenger, wouldn't the driver battery heat up also because the passenger side is still getting juice dumped into it, but it goes through the driver side battery first? So as the driver side heats up, the temp sensor will detect it?