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Makes sense for sure. Like its taking 10-15 years of use to see the grids start failing. Odd mine were acting up with >70k on the clock. It seems like it would be a "amount of use" thing, not age. I still need to check my amperage draw, I didn't get time this weekend. Id like to get it on video too so y'all can hear the whining noise it makes too.

I haven’t had a chane to hook the grids back up and measure ampreg draw but I just got done doing about 50 miles running around town, and I got to say, by simply unhook the grids the truck is running absolutely perfect. I have check ed the ac noise at several points in the last few days and it’s never been above .04. So if the running theory is the grids are kills the alternators, I must have in hooked mine just in time.

I ordered my new Nations alt yesterday, it will be here Monday. I’ll report the numbers. It was a 13874-180HP btw, I called to confirm. 99-03 Although once I unhooked my grid heaters everything is working perfectly and my noise is reasonable so I dont even think I need the new alternator haha

Simple enough. Any size in particular? That won’t damage the ECU will it? If I could get the code to clear tonight, I should have the monitors reset for an inspection next week. honstly that’s assuming this fuel pump code is even a problem. Monitors are likely reset because I cleared the code recently to see if it comes back. If the monitors clear without mimicing tue electric pump I’m golden.

I rolled by the smog shop I go to and he checked my codes/monitors. He said my monitors were not set. So I need to drive more or it could be because of the fuel pump code he wasn't sure, but I need the monitors set and green to pass. Did me resetting with my scan tool un set the monitors? My guess is I will need the pump code to go away to get passed and do the 3 10mi 65mph drives started above... Thats actually gonna be a joy tie because Im not leaving town this week/weekend. He also said the BHAF was fine, as far as he's concerned its a K&N because thats the cable on the tube. So on this. what wire from the ECM? 15 or 35? I saw your drawing on the other page, but it looks like both 15 and 35 run to 86 and 85 on the relay. Or is the just the pump power plug from the ECM im taping to? If thats the case, I would rip the socket off the old pump and make a little dongle fooler deal with a relay on it. or even just a resistor?

So whats the deal with the grids? what triggers them to come on? I know they come one wit the WTS light, and on my truck the duration of the WTS seems to correlate directly to the temp outside. But even in 118* heat at the river the WTS light comes on for a sec or two.

Yea, I just didn't put 2 in 2 together and forgot to mention it... so y'all did not get the all the details. Yea, the Grid heater was making a squealing noise when the WTS light is on that I never noticed before. But its one of those noises that you think to yourself, "is that normal?" it wasn't so bad that it was obviously bad... you know what I mean? Weird because since I unhooked the grids I feel like, everything is running better now... But yea, time will tell there, ill do some good driving this weekend. With all the trips planned started in March I need stout! I jumped the gun and have a Nations 180 on the way... hehehe might not even need it. EDIT: I will measure the average draw off my grids this weekend.

Ohh crap, don’t be mad at me guys, I totally forgot about this... about a a week ago I got a code when I started my truck up, I forgot the code but it was related to my grid heater. I cleared to code and it never came back... I have noticed twice last week that my grid heaters were making a slight squeeze my noise. I only hear it if I put my key in on and get out of the truck. Like to get the coffee I forgot inside. I know its only been 1 day and now 3 drives but it’s funny that as soon as I unhooked the grids the Tc isn’t giving me crap. More driving to confirm.

Po was an old man that passed. His kids were selling it from NY, so I took it in and smogged it, at that tome it had the k&n on the end of the tube. It’s since been smogged with the BHAF, no problems, didn’t even come up. That’s what I’m hoping for this time. Fingers crossed.

To be honest, because im only half sure I still have it. I tossed in a box that in theory made it to the attic. I need to find it haha. Actually, im not entirely sure intake needs a carb EO. I know that the first time I got it smoked the tech failed me because of the dual fuel tank setup. I was told he wasn't sure and asked to come back tomorrow when his senior smog tech was there (owner). The owner right away said, "oh its a pre -some year diesel", the carb EO doesn't apply to the fuel system and he passed me... They did however fail me initially because my Banks CARB EO sticker said 1999 on it. This was because the owner apparently installed it in Dec. 1999 when be bought the truck and Banks hadn't got certified for 2000 yet on the Stinger Plus system. So, long story short, I called Banks, the mailed me a new sticker for free with the updated CARB EO# and gave me a print out of the cert for my system. I got passed. how was the PO getting by before? IDK.. I know I go to the same smog shop and they know me and have my truck in their system with notes, so hopefully on history with me they don't give me crap. I just know I can't have any codes.

makes sense, and every truck could be a little different. Mine TC is acting up yet i'm pulling under .04 idling and .05 at 2krpm. I assume its getting worse from time to time but I haven't seen it unless I have some other issue going on with the trans, but I doubt it. Its only got like 8k on it and all the electronics are new quality replacements. I did play around with a lockup switch for like 30 mins.. I feel like its been weird since then but that likely in my head, maybe I messes something up. I don't like the switch BTW, not one bit.

is it possible for the alternator to make more noise Intermittently, or is purely on load? my Lockup issues seems to be Intermittent right now, but its getting worse daily it seems. So if its not Intermittent, then its load based, maybe my grids were coming on and off Intermittent causing the issue. Actually, I have driven around town twice since this morning and had no lockup issues. I did unhook my grids this morning before heading out. hmmm...

that being said, I just tested again and turning my radio and fan blower on didn't seem to change the ac noise much, if at all. if anything I think its just making it bounce around a little faster, but the peaks was the same (+-.001)

I think the idea is, we can't have a static set of numbers to base "good" or "bad" on if everyone has a different set of accessories. The various accessories will alter the noise levels coming off the AC. But if we all run accessories off then our trucks are pretty much the same (electrically) and we can say, .03 is good and .09 is bad. When were driving down the road 99% of the time, weren't to running all our accessories anyways right? winches, extra, lights, compressors, fans are not ON most of the time. So it those items cause excessive ac noise from time to time I don't think thats a big deal. correct me if I'm wrong here.

Perfect! thank you I do have aftermarket air, but its a K&N tube with a BHAF attached. The K&N has a Carb sticker so its never been a problem before. Worse case, ill shove the K&N filter back on. (I swiped it for the BHAF shortly after I bought it, but kept the K&N for this reason)

Yea I just went out and checked again, I just had driven across town and back with no lockup issues. I was bouncing between .030 and .039. 3-4 months ago Checked and .029 was the highest I saw. That does "seem" good, but like I said ill need to wait and check it when I'm having lockup issues. I wonder is unplugging the grids helped me out haha .

I have always followed the practice of No accessories when doing the test, so were all on the same baseline to a loose extent. I am getting the lockup issues that seem spot on with AC noise. It is currently "intermittent" and seems to be the case when she is plenty warmed up. I have checked my grounds and my cables are all like new. I was gonna pull the alternator and check the mounting point (grounds there) but its so clean I doubt thats a problem. I have yet to have my meter on me in the TC is acting up, but I'm storing it in the truck right now and its happening more regulary every time I drive it. My guess is the noise is much higher when the lockup issue is present. I have a lot of trips coming up this year as far as 10 hour drives so I don't mind spending $289 on an alternator I trust is gonna be good right now. So these are the figures from Mopar1973Man 0.00 VAC is PREFECT DC power. This would be with the truck not running at all. 0.01 VAC Excellent (Rare to see) 0.02 VAC Still really good 0.03 VAC Good 0.04 VAC Good 0.05 VAC OK but marginal 0.10 VAC Failed. I tested this and it does not give a CEL but it does put a code in the system, just like my missing fuel pump does, so I will fail smog for it. There are sometimes I am in really cold weather so I think it will be better to just unplug the main power from the driver side battery. its easy to hook them up if I know im gonna be in really cold climate. So unhooking the main worked perfectly for me.

Got my grids disabled, no codes, thanks for the info on that MM. I did some more testing this morning, cold idle I'm sitting right at .029-.031, it kinda jumps around. at 2k rpm exactly, its .038-.05. Im gonna go warm it up and test again at lunch. Im leaning on the Nations 13874-180HP. A little more power can't be a bad thing and I could fix my original alternator up as a spare, or just sell it cheap here. I guess a OEM dodge one might be worth a little change around here and could help someone out.

I run a fuel boss only setup, no check engine light but I get a P0130 (and its 1693 companion) code if I go looking. I need to get a smog check this week so I'm preparing for that. Is there anything I can jump, remove, connect that will make the computer think a electric pump is present? Otherwise ill strap the old junk electric pump back in there and plug it in just long enough to get smog don't. .

Cool, thanks for the info. I will kill it that way and just have the needed wrench handy if I need the grids one day while out on an adventure... As for my Alternator, I have been reading ton on here, mainly that other really long thread I found currently running about this stuff. Im still on the rocks, but im leaning on the new pack from you.

if I can piggyback of this topic, do the exhaust breaks restrict flow at all when not in use? I have a Banks Brake on my truck thats not in service. I asked Banks about it and they said leave it as it hooks nicely to my Banks 4" exhaust and it flow better than the stock elbow... but I wonder how true that is. I have even considered remove the brake portion of the elbow and plugging any holes into it. I have an Auto trans, so it requires a "smart lock" thingy from banks. I have it new in a box but never installed it. I don't really care to trash my poor 47RE with it so I never did it.

Sorry I lost you there. My goal is to leave the grid heats plugged into the relay/battery and just removed the 12v trigger from the relay and manually control it with a momentary. I haven't really looked into it, I just assumed it would work like that. I don't was a light on my dash thats for sure haha. or just delete it all together.. especially if I'm saving money on a Alternator here I checked again, found the sticker underneath and its a Denso - 56027 - 221AB from TN. So I guess i'm good to give your diodes pack a go. Sorta why I was wanting to get the one from Nations. It seems like a good one. But if I have a good one now that just needs a new pack, I might try that first.

haha I did the same thing! I actually smell the fuel before it even found its way out the hole. It was just coating my gauge when I pulled it.

Is the OEM a Denso? I know mine has a old faded Chrysler sticker on it. It was a 1 owner truck before me, he kept papers on everything and there was no evidence of it being replaced. Also it only has 52k so I doubt it was. So would that be your move? Just replace the diode pack and call it a day? It would defiantly save some cash Whats with the parts store alternators? I should stick with a Denso if I go that route? I was going to delete my grid heater... its been making some funny noises when running haha and im in so-cal heat. At a minimum unhook it from the computer and have it controlled manually as a "just in case". So that sounds like it would help out the new alternator.

I run EV1 gauges as well. I did have a leak once, but it was due to the compression fitting not the gauge. It was just a drip. I smelled it long before it made a puddle and just turned it off under the hood at the needle valve. I now run braided steel hose up to the gauge with -4an fittings on it. A smaller version of what all the other fuel line is run with so I highly doubt it will give me problems, especially not at >20psi. I did the boost in this as well. Like others have said, the EV2s have bells and whistles. Its your preference. Mechanicals can be more of a pain to install. I do think the incandescent bulbs match the truck better. Also, my EV1 FP has developed a bit of a buzz that kind comes and goes.