Leaky88

As discussed, the AC noise damages the RAM, I got it. Would the damaged RAM also account for why the WTS does not come on at all, but after the truck sits for a couple of days, and when the switch is turned on, the WTS comes on immediately and you are able to bump the engine and get the LIFT to cycle for 25s.? Thanks Leaky

Moparman, I have been reading past post where you were exploring these 2nd Gen ECM's. What about getting a Chinese company to replicate the boards? At least a prototype. I think there would be a market for them.

Moparman, Having never seen the inside of the actual ECM, do you know if the RAM is separate from processor and replaceable? Or does the entire Processor have to be replaced? Thanks. Leaky

MoparMan, On your assessment of modulemaster, I sent my ABS module to them and it has served me well since. The customer service was EXCELLENT. No regrets. I think they were the first place I asked when my ECM went south. Unfortunately they do not do these. But, I just asked again. One of the very first things I did was redo the LIFT pump for VP longevity and isolate it from ECM with a "protected" relay...my thought being to spare the ECM from high current and failure. I "was" feeling so good about taking this corrective action every time I started the truck...well until ECM gave it up. But, being new to Diesels, ECM could have been dying since day I bought it. I had seen this and sent a PM to @winch_warrior but never got a reply. He had talked about a place in PA that did Aircraft Modules I believe. I got a response from Rebuilder, but wanted first hand info from @winch_warrior. Forum, I do appreciate ALL your inputs. I fully realize the ECM's an Electronic part, and subject to failure at any given moment, but more than one person (including a BIL - a professional driver) has told me they rarely if ever fail. That said, these ECM's have been out there long enough for a "reputable" Rebuilder to know high failure components, circuits, replace/correct and provide quality products. Especially when they espouse the stringent realist testing units they allegedly put them prior to sending out the door. It should not be an Easter Egg hunt or exercise in futility for the consumer. Thanks. Leaky

Upfront: I apologize for the length but I am exhausted. I am nearly convinced my 99 is too old for parts support, or I’m the ONLY one to experience a FAILED 98.5-2002 ECM. I have dedicated days and nights searching the Internet for a REBUILDER with phone follow-ups. The Internet is abound with enticing websites, pictures of pristine Integrated Circuit Boards, immaculate state-of-art facilities, complete with "experts" in uniform lab coats, headgear, and nitrate gloves peering into high powered microscopes - methodically examining/testing every component to exacting standards. Each facility promises the "perfect", “tested under all conditions”, "sleep well at night" product. All you need to provide is your VIN, Transmission, ECM Code and … your CREDIT CARD information. Prices range from $236 for a “repair” to a RECON $2334.90 + 303.75 core available in 24 at Cummins. And least I not forget the bone yards…which now seek all the market will bear. For example: There’s one on EBay for 900+ and…they want a CORE in return. Curious, I even drove some distance and visited one of these "future technology" facilities. In all honesty, it was nothing but a defunct run-down warehouse with questionable equipment/qualifications. Reviews are no help. EBay might give a facility glowing reviews, but when you drill down to the local reviews (I.e. Yelp), some actually start out with "Buyer Beware". Many reviewers claim poor/rude communication experiences, multiple returns with endless accounts of Emails/phone calls not being answered/returned. Some comments substituted random alpha-numeric characters for their expletives. Included were experiences whereby the Seller/Builder tried to skirt the coveted “Lifetime Warranty” carrot. Alas, my question to Forum: Has “anyone” used an ECM rebuilder/supplier that actually provided a reputable product, willingly kept their word, and stood behind it? If so, how long has the replacement been in service and were there any issues and finally a name please? I'll even take secretive recommendations via PM. Thanks. Leaky

As a new, "hungry for knowledge" guy to Diesels, I read/watch anything and everything he puts out. MHO, he is a renown expert whom I hope to personally meet sometime.

Re: Grid Heaters I can just lift the 4 wires off the relays, and tape to prevent moisture/dirt?

Moparman, Got it. Thanks. I need to bite the bullet and buy an ECM. Every time I've been ready to take the plunge, I second guess myself hoping there's something missed. For sure the Master Ground (115? or the one your finger was pointing to in your article) is spotless. I am VERY interested in AC noise issue. I have a new DIODE pack. Seems like there should be a way to add more stages of rectification to clean it up. Thanks. Leaky

Hi, Do not want to wrongly blame ECM much less buy one needlessly. Lot of articles and Truckers say ECM’s rarely go bad. So, one last sanity check to be sure. My understanding is as follows: - WTS should “always” illuminate immediately after switch is turned on. (I’m told it indicates computer has “booted” up.) - Once WTS goes off, I should “always” be able to bump engine and hear LIFT pump cycle for 25s. Q1. Should the above events take place every single time? What I know: Batteries are good. Charged and tested with DEAD Load tester. Alternator is charging. Noise is .03-.04 max. (Not perfect, but don’t believe it’s a show stopper.) ALL grounds were lifted, cleaned to brightness, greased, and retightened. Stock truck: Only work -outside of maintenance- is: Installed: 1) mechanical Fuel Pressure gauge. 2) FASS LIFT pump – relocated from engine to tank 3) “Protected” Isolation relay (NAPA AR272) to power LIFT Truck bought used. Not 100% sure WTS came on instantly day of purchase. (my BAD) I know it came on. I would wait for it to go out and then start engine. Truck started and ran fine. Installed FP gauge, discovered low pressure, replaced/replumbed LIFT with Isolation relay, truck started and ran fine. Then, once after it sit for 2 weeks, I discovered the LIFT would not cycle after engine bump nor start. Pump works fine with direct power. Relay swapped, same problem. This morning, I attempted to START truck. Turned key on, it took 5s (1001, 1002 etc.) for WTS to come on. I bumped engine, LIFT pump cycled and built pressure. Turned key off and back on. WTS came on after count of 9s. Sometimes, I turn the key on and there is no WTS. I bump engine, and there is no LIFT pump action. No Check Engine Light, and NO CODES. Using an ACTRON CP9670. I’ve looked at BASIC mods done, took a week, reviewed again, and find nothing wrong. One last question. Q2. Can anyone speak to a known quality rebuilder? Thanks. Leaky