Leaky88

I have hauled up the White Flag. The Dip Stick #3935648 is correct one for my 99 Engine. It’s same # hdpwimoney has on his 99 year model and the markings on his jibe with mine. But mine indicates Full(upper Safe Mark) with a little less than 9.5 Qts whereas his level lands within SAFE zone marks. I now have a TOTAL of 11 Qts in the Engine now. 11 Qts. brings the reading on my trucks dipstick past the UPPER Safe Mark a distance EXACTLY equal to the distance between the manufacturers Lower and Upper Safe marks on the Dip Stick. So, I scribed a new line on the Dip Stick. It appears you cannot even trust a dipstick reading anymore. Maybe the dip stick tube on mine is different/wrong. Who knows? I found a 2001 article on TDR where a guy with handle “ juicecummins” had this same issue. Thanks Leaky

I called Cummins yesterday to inquire. Once they found out it was a Dodge PU the person was quick to point me to Dodge stating: “Dodge has their “own” specifications.” I thought it was a far question, but you would have thought I was asking the lady to confirm or deny if Bill inhaled or not. i OK. I’ll start a score card and roll with tally. I at least get answers on this a Forum. hdpwipmokey- 11 Qts. Moparman - 11 Qts.

Thanks. Leaky

Hi, Dodge Manual states: 8Qts. to Lower Safe Mark 10 Qts. To Upper Safe Mark. Using ESN I looked up my Dip Stick number 3935648 and it jibes. It also showed 10Qts of oil. I change my oil as follows: I bring Engine to operating TEMP Pull it into shop with a Level Cement Floor at end of day. Place pan. Remove Drain Plug Let drain all night. The next day: I replace drain plug. Prime and Change Filter Replenish Oil. Problem/concern: I am only able to put just shy of 9.5 Qts in total, back into the Engine to bring it to the UPPER Safe Mark. Ive driven truck several miles, and it’s still at the UPPER Safe Mark. The oil pressure is good. Ive heard that some 5.9’s take as much as 12 Qts. According to TDR, there were some inaccurate Oil Level Gauges (aka Dip Sticks) fielded, but my 3935648 is not it. At least to my knowledge and research, it’s not. For me, too much oil is just as bad as not having enough. If anyone reading this has a 99, or input, I’d appreciate your feedback. Id also like to know what the part number is on the Dip Stick. Thanks Leaky.

I have fused the blue wire at the PCM per Moparman’s example. Unless I missed it, a 150 A resettable breaker was also installed in series with the Charger line coming off back of Alternator Where was the 150A breaker placed? Thanks Leaky

That is what I-was thinking also. Aftermarket is all readily found. I have entertained getting the quick change set up but also fear some one draining it just for spite. Thanks Leaky

At what intervals should the drain plug gasket be changed? Thanks Leaky

Thanks. Was curious because instruction read “Trim the sensor harness wires to length to allow the gauge to pulled back from pod or mounting location without disconnecting the connector.” Made sense to me. But while looking at other installs on “wonder-net”, people coiled the excess up. One article claimed the ohmic value of the Lead Wire was critical, and the length should not be altered. Isspro appears to be reputable product. Another case of TMI.

Question concerning “Shielded” Blue Feed cable on Isspro R17021Pyrometer. I have about 18” of excess cable sticking out of meter pod hole. Can this be cut with no effect on accuracy of gauge readings?

Did you install both with manifold and Turbo intact?

Hi, I want install Isspro pyrometer gauge. Lots of well meant advise on YouTube etc., with some contradiction. Questions I have concerning probe placement are: 1) Which is it, the left or right side of the collector, and where? Halfway up, the middle, or top. 2) Do I Drill and Tap in place, or remove Turbo first. Despite the Dollar Store magnet cleanings I’ve watched, doing it in place has me looking up the cost of a replacement Turbo. Of course, removing the Turbo first will have its own challenges given age of fasteners. Any advice or experiences would be appreciated. Thanks Leaky

Thanks. Leaky

Thanks. I went back out and verified there is no trace on the wire. Just a black wire. I took a couple more pics also. There are 2 branches coming off the Loom, 1 going to LF ABS Sensor, and one going to the Proportioning Valve. And the mysterious Black Wire.

Just taking a little break from my TC Lock problem - which is still under study/investigation. While digging around, I found this black wire beneath the ABS module. It comes out of the same wiring harness as the wires/connector for the ABS. I rings out to chassis ground. I assume a bolt/screw goes thru the eye, but I see no place within black wires reach for it to go. Does anyone know where it's home is please. I bought truck second hand and it looks like the LEFT Fender might have been replaced. Thanks. Leaky

Thanks. Explains why truck barely turned and fired using my Spare DDP-02 with less pressure. So once started, is the 20 psi still OK for the VP44? (I might still be paying off the FASS 150. )

Thanks for inputs. Also, the W-T Mod was done some months ago, followed Mikes lead verbatim. Noise is at acceptable normal level but I’m still pulling ALT fuse/connector to do a 2nd test WRT TC issue. Thats what I like about these trucks, you can always move on to another problem when in a state of consternation over another one.

Ground cables are new/clean and AC noise is .015 - .020 measured with a Fluke like Mikes video shows. I do intend to pull ALT fuse from PDC and 2 wire connector from back ALT and test drive to see if the TC problem remains. (It’s always good to have 2 problems going at once so I can alternate between them. Reduces the boredom/stress.) Thanks for all the replies. Leaky

Thanks guys. Some very good points. The FASS I have is putting out every bit of 20 psi and maybe more. When I turn on the key, that gauge immediately swings up. Conversations with others indicates they have LP putting out 20 with no problems. Then I hear the VP44 has such close clearances it does not like too much fuel pressure. From what I read, the causes of the hard start when hot are due either to a damaged diaphragm in the VP44 or too much FP. I hate to crank the starter any more than necessary given the amps and work it has to do. I figured the switch would be easier for me to control the on/off situation given the location of the fuse for the FASS. Thanks again for the replies. Leaky

Hi, Installed reman VP44 from DAP, no codes, no problems. But engine now requires excessive cranking to start when hot. It fires right off when hot. Truck has FASS 150 that provides 20psi all day and I've always used a protected isolation relay between ECM and the FP. In preparation for a trip last weekend, and with limited time, I modified my existing isolation relay by adding the NC relay and using the B+ from brown solenoid wire to hold FASS150 at bay during cranking. Moparman has an article on it. No noticeable improvement was seen. I switched to a FASS DDRP-02 I have as spare (circa 13psi) and truck fired right off. Suspect problem is too much FP from FASS 150. But I want to retain the FP 150 for the FP it provides to VP44. (The one I just replaced.) I have read that one can change a spring in the 150 to reduce FP. Again, I like the 20psi for the VP44 and would rather not dink with the FASS 150. Since the FASS runs for 10 secs when key is turned on, I am entertaining getting B+ for the newly added NC Relay shown below - from another source than the solenoid, and installing a NC spring loaded switch to control the LP NC relay until engine fires. This procedure would only be done/needed when engine is hot. Anyone see a problem with this? It seems like a harmless mod but given the problems these trucks have with AC noise etc. I need to ask. Thanks. Leaky As soon as I get this done, I need to find out why I have a TC Lock/Unlock issue that magically appeared during my trip.

Hi, I have a 2nd Generation Truck but “possibly” looking for a second truck for the wife. Ran into a man today who I have not seen in a while. He bought a truck BEFORE getting a huge Toy Hauler and has decided he now needs a Dually. I rented a 2016 a couple of years ago for trip to Wyoming. Anyone own own one of these? And what are the pro and cons please. Thanks Leaky

Thanks

Mike, do you know if DAP is still a good source for a VP44? Thanks Joe a.k.a. Leaky

Thanks. It’s always good to know what “might” be in store for me. The VP44 on my truck is a remanufactured one. The truck still had an OEM Carter Fuel pump mounted on the engine when I bought it which might account for it having remanufactured one. First thing I did was install a FASS pump and replumb it. The only other code I’ve received is a P1291. My truck throws this when the relays are disconnected during warm weather. Just thankful this did not happen last weekend on trip to WY and back. The only about today was a heavy rain but I drove through rain last weekend. I certainly don't want to condemn the VP44 given the cost of replacement if there is something else I’m not seeing that could be causing the problem. I’ll keep looking. Leaky

Thanks. So I might as well ask now. What’s involved in changing the VP 44 out. Lessons learned etc. Thanks

My turn. Got same code today after 2200 trip last weekend. Cleared, drove 15 mi and it’s back. Please define “issues with PSG on VP44”. Not sure I really want to know what PSG since it’s used in the same sentence as VP44. I can see the TACH taking minute dips and it sounds like a cylinder miss does on a GASSER for lack of better description. Please listen to attached. Thanks Leaky New Recording.m4a