Leaky88

Just curious. Does this mean the VP44 must see at least 7psi in order for engine to start or No? The reason I ask is because the HOT Start Mods to disable the Lift Pump would result in VP 44 seeing no pressure since the LP is disabled. Correct? Or does taking the Lift Pump off line make the VP44 dependent on getting the fuel, which is very hard on it.

Yes it does.

I do have 1/2” inch lines, from the FASS all the way to the VP 44 via the OEM filter. I’ve followed most every recommendation you have provided.

Some have responded that they have 7-12 PSI while cranking Engine. AND they run as much as 18+ PSI down the road. With the FP Relay in PDC removed, my gauge shows a solid 15 PSI while cranking Engine. My FP stays a solid 17 down the highway. Q1:I am not understanding why my cranking pressure is so high compared to the reports of others (I.e. 7-12 PSI) Called FASS. Was told some VP44 are finicky about the high FP and the HOT Start issue) Was told to trim Spring to lower PSI. I can do that, no problem. Q2: If I trim the spring to reduce the “cranking pressure” will this not also reduce the 17 PSI I have available running down the highway? Thanks

OK. No Valves it is. I've erased the idea. Sorry I brought it up. Bad Bad Bad idea. I'm down with that. I'm just tired of the HOT START issue. Any engine that needs to be cranked excessively before it fires, most especially a Diesel, is embarrassing and I'm certain the Starter does not enjoy it either. The "load-tested" batteries are good, the Starter is strong, and has no issues. Now back to the back to the Ball and Spring at the RETURN on the FASS 150. Did not find a 14psi Spring at Vulcan, contacted them asking for one, and apparently they don't stock 14 PSI Springs. Is there another source? Thanks.

With the Fuel Pump Relay removed, it cranks a healthy 15psi of FP on the installed Mechanical Pillar Gauge. I know the FP needs to be no more than 12PSI or I have Hot Start issues. I got it. Question remains: Would my idea of a Ball Valve on Return Side of FASS 150 allow me to control it? Good/Bad Idea? Has anyone done it? I know the Air Dogs have an adjustment with lock nut on them. But my FASS 150 does not. Thanks.

Mike et al,, I have also tried the Starter Mod with no joy. I then went to the Relay Mod. Question: What if I installed a Natural Gas 1/2" Ball Valve on the return side of the FASS? Looking at it, I could easily put 1/2" Push-on fittings on the valve. Do you think this would work? Thanks. Leaky

Almost a year ago, I replaced my VP44, purchased through DAP. Truck runs fine, but I STILL have a HARD START issue when truck is hot. (I.e. I stop at a Rest Area on a trip.) For the life of me, I cannot remember if the "failed" VP 44 had an issue with Hot Starts. It could very well have been an existing issue prior to my replacing the VP44 and I attributed the hard start problem to the old VP44. Regardless, the problem is still alive and well. Please note, the engine kicks right off with a mere bump when it's cold, regardless of time of the year. I have a FASS 150 aftermarket pump which produces a solid 18 PSI. (As has been pointed out, I realize a 95 would probably have been a better choice, but it is what it is.} The cooling of VP44 was my primary concern when selecting the 150 over the 95. @dripley stated his truck starts every time HOT with 18 PSI, but I have read that some VP44's can be more sensitive to LP pressure than others. I did the HOT START relay mod, whereby I use a spring loaded switch in CAB to power a relay, that cuts power to FASS 150 during HOT cranking. It does nothing to decrease Starter Time on this HOT Start issue. There are no codes since I replaced the VP44 and truck runs fine aside from HOT Start issue. I'm ready to try something new. Since I really only need a Minimum of 15psi going down the road, the overflow opens at 14psi, and extreme pressure does nothing but heat up the fuel, I am entertaining cutting the FP back. Since the FASS 150 FP is non-adjustable, I understand I can trim the Spring on the FASS 150. Question: How much of the SPRING do I trim each time to "incrementally" reach the desired PSI. ?

As I age, good tires, power steering, cruise control, a bag of tools, and a properly functioning AC are paramount. I can deal with the rest.

Thanks. B-days come to way quick now. I use to wish I had tools. Now that I have “almost” what I want, I’m hoping I will have enough time to use the tools.

Thanks. AZ returned my money and I’m going with the Four Season Package. It’s half dozen @nd another buying anything anymore. We just hope there was no unhappy employee in China that day. COVID 19 is real. I know of 2 COVID cases. One, a long time friends wife died and another’s Uncle survived it. I’ll be 66 on Wednesday and we’ll I toy with it. Too many projects to do.?

Thanks. Of course it’s 90 here today. Got the Compressor off and found it’s not even close. Line connects on side vice the rear as on OEM. If I buy the 4 Seasons from RA it’s 192.90 savings compared to AZ and that includes Fedex. Everything was wrong with AZ kit plus I had to buy an Orifice Line separately. $192.90 is $192.90, you know what I mean? Hope you and yours are OK with this COVID-19. Regards Joe

The Santech AC kit I got had wrong Compressor. Anyone have experience with the Four Seasons Brand AC System components? Nothing Is made outside of China, so I dropped that qualifier.

Thank you VERY MUCH! Really! You made my day. Im going to Print out right now. This is OUTSTANDING and what I’ve been looking for. I am ALWAYS happy to receive lessons learned. I love having a checklist and procedure to follow, especially as I get older. Have great day. You made mine. Sincerely, Joe

Many thanks. I ordered the Orifice Pipe from AZ, some place I got the Sanden Kit from. FYI, I have replicated all of your MOD’s on my truck, to include a Rear Camera and they are working great. Glad to hear your “Dynamic” Transmission is doing all it was advertised to do. If I ever get to Utah, I have plans of turning my eyes from the Credit Card Machine and getting mine done. What Package did John do on yours? I’ve been away due to that “day” job thing. Still slotted to move to Utah for work, but like everything else, COVID 19 is in the plans. I’ll be 66 in a few days, and I heed CDC’s warnings. Fortunately, my work does too. Cant complain about the Trucks AC. Guy I bought it from said he was adding every year. That is always a red flag with any closed system. Firestone, where I’ve been buying tires for years serviced it 2 years ago, it was good until last year 2019. They graciously looked at it, found a Schrader Valve “packed” with debris, charged it up and it worked until now. This is not a job I wanted/need with everything else going on, but a shop talked about only doing a KIT and no Condenser or as you pointed out, the needed Orifice Line. It was not the price that turned me away as I know the unseen overhead any automotive business has, rather it was fact I have a place and those tools my wife surely looks at with question. Again, many thanks.

Thanks IBMobile. Do you happen to know a source for the replacement pipe? And how is that rebuilt Transmission doing BTW?

Hi, The heat is back, and of course, the AC is not working. Nothing but hot air. My compressor is leaking around front seal, evidenced by dye on compressor and ground. I purchased a compressor kit with Compressor, Dryer, Orifice, seals, oil etc. and also have a new Condenser. Destructions talk about flushing the lines, and Evaporator to remove oil, contaminants, etc. Any recommendations on flushing it would be appreciated. How much of this flushing agent is required? Thanks Leaky

Thanks

Thanks. I’ll check out the ATSG, I have one for my 47RE. I’m over 100K now and lions share is highway miles. Appreciate the feedback. Leaky

Hi, I want to service the 62TE on wife’s 2015 Dodge Caravan. I’ve dual-purposed the oil dip-stick in order to read 62TE fluid levels, but have not been able to find instructions on adjusting the 62TE Bands when I service it. Mopar Tech Authority has a CD or USB manual for $160 with tax/s&w but I’m not ready to bit that bullet yet. Anyone know procedure for Band Adjustments or location of same? Thanks and Happy New Year Leaky

Mike, Thanks. Tailoring it is. Leaky

Hi, I am installing these Running Lights. Harness is 18 Gauge wire and has a 2A line fuse. The length of this universal harness far exceeds my needs for a neat install. The pamphlet cautions: “Do not modify the lamp harness or the switch harness in any way.” First inclination is to reach for side cutters, heat shrink, and tailor but wondering what others have done. Do I coil the excess or trim and are there any issues with doing so? Thanks

Mike, I bought a set of these. The link advertises/mentions a relay but the harness I received does not have a Relay. Does yours have a Relay? How did you mount yours? What CKT did you take B+ from? Thanks Leaky

One of the many good things about this forum is you can always find a new MOD to do when you are in a lull from most “recent” demand maintenance.

No problem. I’m just eager to move on to the next jackpot with this truck.