Leaky88

How many holes were drilled into the basket? Thanks. Leaky

015point9, Thanks. Leaky

Thanks. Leaky

dripley, Thanks. Meant to say T-Block vice T-bar. Its the plastic horizontal junction between top lines and bottom ones.

Need to drill 5/8" hole in top for bulkhead fitting and a 1/2" hole in the basket. I'm concerned about the basket since it's so thin. Is a Step-Drill best way? Also, I'm told the caps on the T-Bar just "snap" on/off IOT remove the check-valve. Either my fingers are weak or someone used glue. Any advise please? Thanks. Leaky

Alright, be patient, I am still building a wrist "watch" here. I want to go ahead and remove the screens since tank is out/dry and I always run a pre-lift filter. Reason: Pic to far right is bottom of my module. Not very clear, but I can see zero mesh. First 2 pics L to R are of my module. 3rd is example from some else's mod. 4th is bottom of my module as stated. If I squeeze the bottom of my module, I can work the bottom off to a point, but not all the way. When I look inside (Limited view) resistance appears to be the 3-prong red item show in 3rd pic to R. What is it, and do I need it?. It appears, that if I cut both screens out, there will be nothing left but a "stand-off" for the module. Thanks. Leaky

JAG1 et al, By screens, you are referring to the ones at bottom of the fuel module? Like mine pictured above, correct? I attempted to remove bottom of module by carefully squeezing past 3 tabs, but stopped when I saw it's connected. If you can't gain access to clean, what are the options? Buy a new module? Cut them out? As you can see, mine looks dirty, but it was obviously pulling fuel since I had 19-20 psi at OEM fuel/water filter. My tank is still down and empty. Thanks. Leaky

Moparman, Thanks. Believe I will have some at the ready...just in case.

Moparman, Thanks. I will do. Is there a ratio an unsuspecting victim of gasoline should add?

Sorry, the BEFORE photo's don't have enough light/detail. I cleaned up all the visible that I could see and reach. Wasn't anything "caked" per se, just floaties for lack of a better word. I used a Mighty Mac to suck everything I could out, and then paper toweled/collected particles, and wiped up residual diesel. I'll leave it like that and call it a qual. Believe I'll stay way from BIO fuel henceforth. The bottom of the fuel module (screen) is very dirty. I have not taken module apart. Do I just compress tabs in the slides to get the basket off? Side bar: Friend of mine has a 2006, bought fuel in Cheyenne last week. Truck stared spitting and stuttering as he headed home on 25. He initially suspected, his In Tank fuel pump was going. He, a RR Diesel Locomotive Mechanic removed gas cap and smelled gasoline in his tank. Said, he added some "quality" transmission fluid to it, it got well, and then he changed out filters. He cited 2 other instances of cross contamination or the delivery truck making a "mistake".

Discovered black particles/flakes in my fuel tank. I assume this is from BIO fuel. Wiped what I could reach out of tank as well as residual diesel. Would like to wash it out in effort to reach crevices etc. Any suggestion on a cleaner I might use? Thanks. Leaky

Sorry, should have mentioned the states I run are Wyoming and Nebraska, parts of which can be devoid of amenities like Moparman said. I do fix things immediately upon discovery, but always looking/thinking about the "what if", and how I will handle it. I've had gassers break down and was able to easily get them home, but this Dually makes it more of a challenge. I do appreciate everyone's input, especially parts that failed. Nothing better than a good maintenance program, but one cannot think of everything. Or at least I can't anymore. Thanks. Leaky

Hi, We can't predict everything, so I will ask the question ahead in preparation. If anyone has been on a long trip and suffered a breakdown, how did you get the truck back home to your shop? I'd like to hear what you did? Are there companies that rent Haulers/trucks capable of hauling a 3500? Or maybe a vehicle Transport Company? Thanks. Leaky

I always have more questions. -Does anyone know of a case where this MOD was done, and later changed back for some reason? Believe one reason was because it required a certain level of fuel in tank to prevent the introduction of air. -Some raise the bed to service the module, others lower tank. Would appreciate hearing PRO's and CONS of each. Lastly, is it best to re-plumb entire return line with 7/16 or is it necessary? Thanks. Leaky

Thanks Guys, I appreciate everyone's input. Leaky

Moparman, And the "Old School Draw Straw" is... Thanks Leaky

Hello, I'm certain many have changed out the Draw Straw to 1/2" but I don't seem to be finding discussion on it. Could someone please direct me to a discussion or documentation on doing it? Thanks. Leaky

CumminsTech, Thanks. Appreciate it. Leaky

Thanks guys. Should there be a Cap on the ends to cover up the contacts. (2 on the black and 3 on triangle grey)

Hi, Spotted these 2 connectors, 1 grey, and 1 black coming out of harness near left front side of engine. Black has what appears to be 2 contacts, and grey has 3 contacts. Picture is taken from ground, left side looking up. Thanks. Leaky

Mopar1973Man, Thanks. You have done some personal research on the ECM, because I read but lost a posting on it. Is it captured at any one file? Please Thanks . Leaky

Hi, Anyone know a source for buying RAM chips for Cummins ECM 3942336? Thanks. Leaky

Hag, Thanks. Point well taken. I appreciate your input. Leaky

Dripley, Thanks. I did NOT let it idle long when I saw it had no fuel pressure. I would not drive the truck after purchase until I had a gauge and aftermarket LIFT - thanks to you guys on Forums. Learning more every minute. Got a WORD file full of Cut and Pastes from Forums. Might need a Desk Top drive for ECM file that amassing. OK. I will check with WTS after a 15-30 second wait time. I was ignorant of this. Maybe the WTS is not an issue with this ECM. Perhaps the Mosfet's are dying. Onward. Thanks Leaky

Just keeps getting better. -FRIDAY, I tried another "used" (borrowed) Cummins 3942336 - Plug and Play, suppose to work with no issues. -WTS came on immediately first time, bumped engine and Lift Pump cycled 25s. Engine started. No codes. -Shut it down after about 3 mins. -Turned key. -WTS DID NOT come on. -Bumped Engine, no LIFT pump cycling. -Turned key further, it STARTS. BUT there is no indication of fuel pressure on (Mechanical Gauge). ZERO! Yet, it is idling. AND no, I did not take it for a test drive and would not without a wrecker behind me. I have not driven the thing since this nightmare with the ECM began. I'm so gun shy with the AC Noise, I checked it after start-up and it was .04 MAX. No not the best, but within higher tolerance range. My question is how does it run with no fuel pressure? Further, The WTS should come on each and every time, IMMEDIATELY after key is turned on. YES/NO? Should I not be able to bump engine and get the LIFT Pump to cycle any/every time? Or is this an unrealistic expectation? Last but not least, which time span of DODGE Trucks don't have all these ECM problems? I'm in the market for one at this point. Thanks. Leaky