mariner

Hi Guys, My 2002 truck still has the original batteries in it. While the weather is mild they are still giving good service - but coming up to winter I am not so sure this year. Those of you that have replaced your batteries, what did you use and how have they performed. I am considering going to Costco for the new batteries as I have had good results with their batteries on other vehicles and applications. Any info or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

I meant the Fuel Pump Pressure Gauge which I have the my steering column of my 2002 Ram 3500. I have had exhaust manifold leaks before and this "tick" sounded just like it. Anyways, all is good and I thought this post might stop someone else from having doubts about what he was hearing and experiencing.

Hi Guys, Just thought I would mention what I have just recently gone through. My fuel gauge line is connected to a small needle vale on the fuel pump and over time, the gauge needle valve has vibrated open. I started to hear this tick while driving and thought I had an exhaust manifold leak. Kept looking and checking and found nothing out of the ordinary. This went on for a while and I was getting frustrated and concerned due to the exhaust burning metal away at the gasket area. One day I happen to watch the fuel gauge as I booted it to pull away in traffic and the gauge needle jumped in time with the "tick" - ahh I thought, has to be the gauge line valve. Adjusted the needle valve until it was almost closed - still the same. Finally adjusted it until the needle valve barely lifted off the seat and that fixed it. It appears that the needle valve spindle had moved (turned) from the fuel pump/engine vibrations to the point that I found it. I guess close to half a turn of movement I finally got. It sure had me concerned for a little while and I can see how someone would think there was something more serious happening - even to the point of taking it to a shop for a diagnosis - could be an expensive mistake if the wrong shop was picked. Thought I would post this in the hope it might stop someone else from making wrong assumptions. Truck runs great and no more apparent engine "ticking" :-) Thanks

My truck has 116,320 km - which I think, comes out at 69,792 miles. Was only used for towing trailers for quite a few years but has now become my daily driver.

Just thought I would add my experiences on gauges to that already expressed. My take on electrical gauges are that they can be good but need to be verified/checked on a regular basis. Gauge used for verification are usually a mechanical gauge. I understand that electrical gauges can be preferred for particular applications outside of our trucks, where a mechanical one would not be so useful. I recently had my mechanical gauge in the cab register a sudden low pressure reading of 4psi when it normally read around 16psi. Having had to previously re-adjust regulating valve twice because of falling pressure (I assumed the regulating valve spring on lift pump was failing) I decided to put in another spring in regulating valve - very close to original in size. Tried and found no improvement. Decided then to check the pressure at the VP44 inlet where Schrader valve used to reside. I used a spare 120 psi gauge I had laying around and adapted to what I needed. When I ran the engine I got 25psi at idle !!! This proved that the lift pump was fine - what to do ? I had a gauge isolator between the VP44 and the gauge in the cab. I decide to take the isolator out of the system and connect from VP44 (at needle valve) to the cab gauge direct. Ran the engine and I got an immediate response on the cab gauge - still too high though. I then removed the second spring and installed the original spring back in the regulating valve and checked again. Again I got a quick positive response on the cab gauge and after a couple of further adjustments, have idle set at 20 psi and 17psi at 60 mph on level highway. The engine runs very well (all stock) and nothing out of the ordinary evident. If anyone has a gauge isolator installed between reading point and cab gauge, it might pay to remove the isolator from the set up. In my case, the isolator seems to have failed for some unknown reason and caused me a few anxious moments. I don't know how long the cab gauge has been reading inaccurately because of the isolator. I am keeping my fingers crossed that I haven't been running with excessively high pressures over the last year or so (new VP44 installed December 2013). I do feel better knowing that there is nothing between the VP44 and the cab gauge that can fail. Whether electrical or mechanical, gauges that need an isolator/sending unit, introduce another level of errors. For my money, where possible, I will stick to the mechanical gauge without an isolator. Just my $0.02, but it sure caused me some un-necessary work. Hope this helps someone else with their fuel pressure problems.

UPS will get you every time with their "extra's". If at possible ship using US Postal Service. I refuse to buy anything that the sellers ship BY UPS or FedEx.

I too have the flip up rear view mirror and think they are excellent. I also know that the edge of the mirrors (flipped up ) will clear the bulge on the rear fenders for when driving through tight spaces.

Thanks for the comments thus far. I didn't realize that the different truck makes require the different approaches - so thank you very much for the manual. Still have to remove the L shaped brackets from the F250 frame - not a lot of room under there to work. Really appreciate comments - Thanks. Yes, the 3500 has the 8ft bed on it. mariner

Sorry - I posted this in the wrong section. Could someone please put it in the appropriate section for me. Thanks mariner

Hi guys, I was wondering about the installation of 5th wheel hitches on the 2002 3500 duallies - are there any specific problems to watch out for? I have taken a barely used hitch out of my '86 F250 and want to install it in the Dodge. I do have the spray in Rhino liner in the box if that matters at all. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance mariner

I am having the same trouble with my Raptor pump. It was new in December and it has been adjusted twice so far. Each time I adjusted it to 19psi idle and it gave 15.5 at WOT. Now it has dropped to 15.5 idle and around 11.0 WOT. I also changed the fuel filter thinking my filter was dirty but it made just around 0.5 psi difference is all. Am now back down to having to adjust it again, one more time. Need to check with the manufacturers to see what they say re warranty. At least I know it is not just me that is having this problem.

Hi Guys, Just came across another Bosch authorized VP44 pump rebuilder - here is the link. http://www3.jasperengines.com/blog/2011/12/02/jasper-remanufactures-vp44-diesel-injection-pumps/ The link shows the actual "diaphragm" that is installed in these pump that fails regularly - so Jasper claim. Anyway, I just thought that this link might be of some interest. Thanks

If you contact Timbo, I hope you had better luck than I did. I Emailed regarding testing the new Timbo I installed and heard nothing back. I too had some problems but they cleared up fortunately - possibly connection not fully contacting. Anyway, no more problems with my Timbo APPS just yet.

I have started to buy sensors etc. directly from Cummins Canada. They are very reasonable (so far) and they have been able to ship the same day (usually by Greyhound bus) resulting in very short wait. To compare, Cummins is usually 1/3 to 1/4 the price of what autoparts store and dealers charge.

speed sensor in the transmission need cleaning ?

Well I checked the truck ECT sensor today and got an ohmic value of 27.4K ohms for an ambient temperature of 50F. That value is exactly what I calculated for the IAT at 50F - however, my IAt only gave 17.69 K ohms.It is starting to look like the IAT is failing on my truck. Will know in a few days after I get a new IAt sensor (only $50 or so from Cummins Canada) and install it.Will update later once the new IAT is installed.Thanksmariner

Hi Mike,Assuming the IAT and ECT resistance is linear with temperature change (didn't bother to make a graph to check), then the value for 50F should be easily calculated.With that in mind I calculated what I think the value should be for 50F and came up with 27.0 K ohms !The reading I got from my IAT was 17.69K ohms - hhhhm!Is this my problem - if the IAT is starting to fail ? I am not sure what would happen with the ECM signal input and corresponding VP44 commands.Thanksmariner

I pulled both sensors for checking and cleaning. Both looked pretty clean but I cleaned them anyway - used carb cleaner. Hope this hasn't done any damage - I guess time will tell.I checked the IAT with it sitting on the bench and got R= 17.69 kohms with ambient temperature of 50 degrees F. I don't know if that means anything to anyone. I have tried to find a value for a good IAT sensor, but no luck yet. I replaced both and started the truck and all seems fine though it does sound a little different - more throaty maybe. If the cleaning helped I don't know - it is snowing heavily here and don't want to try test driving with snow plows out etc.Anyone know what the engine coolant temp sensor should read cold sitting in the engine - resistance value ? I cut a piece of cardboard and placed it between the rad and air cooler to cut down on excessive cold (has 8" diameter hole in the centre for fan air flow) as I don't yet have a winter front for the truck. I am hoping this may help a bit if the problem is temperature related - engine is in limp mode until it warms up and then the power just appears and everything is back to normal ?I am for reasons for this problem and only get P0216 and yet the engine seems fine, start great , no smoke , etc. After replacing the APPS I once got a P0222 but it cleared and never returned.My suspicions are are that there may have been a connection not properly seated - numerous plugs disconnected and then plugged back in. No other codes shown using a ODB11 reader.Any suggestions on where to go from here. I am pretty sure that the VP44 pump is still mechanically good but what about the PCB on the top of the pump - hhhhmmmmm? No codes showing.Thanksmariner

Thanks guys - I finally got it figured out. It is amazing what a good nights sleep will do :-)Now I find that the deep sockets I have won't work so I am on hold until I can get the right ones. Probably get back to it on Thursday after our weekly grocery trip to town (43 miles away).mariner

Hi Guys,I am attempting to unplug the electrical connectionplug for the MAP sensor and I can't get the darn thing to move.I see (with the use of a mirror) two red pieces down near the brass part of the MAP sensor - on the plug body. Are these supposed to be pushed to release or pulled to release ?I cannot for the life of me figure out how it comes off (at 69 I'm getting slow and old eh!). It is a pain as there isn't a lot of room to work in to start with.While I am on the subject of electrical connectors - is the IAT the same or a different type to unlock and remove ?Sheesh, why does Dodge have to be different to everyone else re connectors? I'm not an electrician so my experience is limited with these things.Any help you could send my way (like instructions on how not to bugger up the connector) would be greatly appreciated.I am trying to sort out why I am getting a P0216 for the injection pump - which I believe is fine. I am trying to check other sensors that contribute to the injection pump operation. A dirty sensor or a failed one could cause erratic operation.Thanksmariner

I checked all the wiring this morning and found nothing obvious. Checked where the wires plug into the PCM (passenger side firewall behind air filter box) and had one plug actually move slightly and then clicked ! It seems that the plug was not pushed home properly from new ?Cleared the codes and did a 60 mile trip to check. On checking codes after getting back home, found only one DTC (P0216) - the P0222 has not returned. I am hoping this code was due to the new Apps install and that nothing else is a problem.Just thought I would update on what I found. Will install the new fuel lift pump later this week.Thanksmariner

I recently installed a new Timbo APPS and everything went fine - that was about five days ago. Truck drove well (improved on OEM) and no CEL.Today I used the truck and got a check engine light come on for the first time ever .I will check the truck wiring in the morning - too p*ssed off right now to do anything remotely serious.When I checked the codes (using my Autel Maxiscan MS300 ODB11 Code Reader), I got P0216 - Fuel injection pump timing and P0222 - Apps voltage low. The truck runs fine and sounds good - nothing unusual happening so far.Has anyone have an idea of what the P0222 would cause - fuel pump timing error due to low signal voltage?Anything I need to be concerned about regarding low voltage - short term or long term?I am just trying to get a feel for what might be the outcome of the low voltage.I need to go over the wiring with a fine tooth comb.Any suggestions would be appreciated.ThanksmarinerPS - fuel pressure fine at 13 idle, 10 cruise at 60mph and 6 at WOT. New transfer pump ordered recently.

Until I found this thread, I had read little of the Raptor 100 problems. Based on that I have just ordered (three days ago) a Raptor 100 pump to replace my OEM style Carter lift pump. My truck is completely stock so I figuredthe 100 gph would be more than adequate over the Carter's 60 or so gph. You guys have now got me a lttle concerned over this new pump !I think I will probably increase the size of the suction line from the fuel tank to ensure adequate flow. Any special fittings needed to do this - anyone ??? Any other information would be greatly appreciated.Thanksmariner

Hi Guys,A bit of an update on the transmission.Had a local transmission service look at the tranny. First, they tried to get codes and the only thing that showed up was a P0216 - from when I lost my fuel lift pump. They cleared that code and then we went for a test drive and then rechecked with the code reader. Nothing - no codes showing other than P1693, which I believe is a companion code and really doesn't mean much on it's own.The chap (owner) talked a bit with me on the 47RE and suggested a few things. First, he cleaned the speed sensor in the tranny - magnetic and picks up fine metal pieces. It was pretty dirty - which is apparently normal and replaced it. He also suggested that I work on wiring grounds and the alternator for spurious signals etc. Otherwise he could not find anything wrong with the tranny, it shifts just fine up and down. After spending all this time (maybe 30 mins or more) the owner would not take any money for what was done. His philosophy is that what he did would be good advertising and that I would recommend his services to everyone else. That is exactly what I will do.So, I guess I will spend the next day or two checking grounds and wiring etc. I won't know for sure if there is any improvement until tomorrow or the next day re cleaning speed sensor.Will let you guys know if I come up with anything that might help someone else.mariner

Thanks for the reply. I was wondering if maybe the governor might be problematic as well as the wiring etc? Otherwise the truck runs just fine and no surging or dead pedal scenarios to date.Yes, I realise the transmission is a 47RE - just my fat fingers not dancing properly over the keyboard :sleep:Thanks again for the comments - it gives me a direction to start in.mariner