kerley

While installing my Battery Cable [battery to Starter] I noticed a round object about four inches in diameter and eight inches long, attached to the engine block in front and above the starter. I can not figure out what this is. I looked in my Haynes repair manual and there is nothing about it. Does any one with a Dodge/Cummins 1998.5 24v have this part or know what it is.

I just want to give you folks a heads up for LarryB's. I ordered Military Type Battery Connectors from LarryB's and had them in my mail box in five days as promised. When I installed the connectors I found that the two Pos connectors fit perfect, one Neg. fit and one did not. I checked both Neg, connectors and they had different markings on them.I called LarryB's and told Larry the problem. He told me that he had just changer suppliers and and he was on the road but would send another connector as soon as he got back to the office. He did what he promised, with me this is a big deal. His word is good and I will do business with him again because he treated me right. I reccomend LarryB's to anyone needing his products.

While removing my inner front fender cover I found two wire connectors [male and female] with many fine wires. they were attached to the lower rear of the drivers side wheel well and just inside of the outer fender and exposed when removing the inner fender cover. It just does not look like any electrical engineer would design a wire harness to just hang like this and not secured to anything for protection. Have any members found the same wiring on your Dodge/ Cummins. 1998.5, vp44 4x4 5 speed.

I am thinking that you may have a defective battery.

Thank ya'all for the replies. I removed the wheel panel and battery box, checked my Cruise Control server and found nothing visually wrong. I did find three female plugs with no males present, one under the battery box with several fine wires connected within the plug and two female plugs hanging from the block just above the vp44, and wondering what there purpose might be? Everything is set back in place waiting to be tightened back up, I thought I would leave the bolts loose until after I install the new 2/0 battery cables. The cables cost less than half of what Dodge wanted and these are heavier guage with Military style battery connectors. The more I do to upgrade this Dodge the more I feel that the folks that engineered it did a very poor job, but I love my Dodge when it runs well and works hard pulling my stock trailer with ease. I thank everyone for your help.

I am trying to remove the left [Drivers side] battery tray. I removed the visual nuts and bolts from the battery tray, it wont come out, so I went online for information and they speak of battery tray bolts that are attached from the bottom of the tray which I can not see or feel. My thoughts are to remove the rubber/plastic wheel cover shield on the fender to gain access to the battery tray bolts. The wheel cover is attached with several plastic clips which has to be removed for access. I need to remove the battery box to access the Cruise Control Server and hoses/wiring, Sorry for the long story but I want you to understand what I am doing. If there is an easier way to access the battery tray bolts please tell me. Also where can I buy the replacement shield clips.

mulcher812, Thank you for the reply. I worked under that hood for three hours this morning and just got upset that such a simple thing could be so difficult for me to do. It is humid here today and I just got new glasses and cant see squat so I came in the house and made my post, cooled off and went back at it only I took my old glasses and I got it done. when I started to remove the passenger side battery to block ground [neg] cable I discovered that it was about to fall off the block. I am not agile enough to get at it from the top so I will attack it tomorrow morning from the bottom when it is cool. I bet finding the loose cable and replacing all pos and neg will possibly solve many problems.

I need some help doing a very simple task but I just can't get it done. Getting old is a real bummer but I guess it is better than the alternative. This is my problem. I am attempting to install my new battery cables and I can not figure out how to un-plug the Alternator ground plug. It is located at the bottom of the left battery. I know it comes apart by squeezing or twisting the male from the female. There is one wire from the alternator to the battery neg. From the battery neg. there are two wires. One to the fender ground and one to the control box on the firewall. Both wires run through this plug and I do not want to break it, but I cant see how it comes apart. Is there a special tool?

I have been looking for the Crankcase Vent on my 98.5 24 Valve Cummins. I can not find it so I looked in the Haynes Dodge Repair Manuel. On page 2B-8 photo 9.3a it shows a 1994 thru 1998. On page 2B-9 photo 9.3d it shows a photo of the 2000 model. No where does it show or refer to a 1998.5 or 1999 Crankcase Vent. The oil filler cap on the valve cover does not appear to be vented, there must be a Crankcase Vent some where on this Cummins. Any one know?

Is there a wiring extension that can be bought that will allow me to install my code reader plug to my dash for easy access?

I replaced my Crankshaft Sensor with one bought from Cummins. I priced them on the net and they were available at a range of prices, some more than Cummins. When I visually compared the old Sensor with the OEM there was a very big difference. Apparently the previous owner had replaced the OEM with the aftermarket Sensor. It appeared to be built so shoddy that I am amazed it did not come apart during removal.

Had the Crankshaft Sensor changed today and It's fixed. Thank you all for helping me out.

Crankshaft Sensor, I do not like to buy parts at the dealership because they are way to expensive, I expect to pay a fair price for my needed parts but I don't want to buy their dealership. I also hate shopping in town. Where is the best place to but quality parts online?

Thank you all. Mike, since I will have to remove the starter would it be smart to install a new starter kit while it is out. The starter works fine but has 202K on it. I'm just thinking extra labor later.

What do you think about these cables? http://custombatterycables.com/application/dodge_ram.htm. with the military end clamps.

What is required to install a new crankshaft sensor? I read where there is a wheel built into the crankshaft with notches in it that feed the crankshaft sensor. Do you just remove the crankshaft sensor and replace the new sensor or is there a calibration procedure? I have never done this and I need some advice, please.

Is it really necessary to replace the heavy duty battery cables on our Cummins or would the regular size gas powered truck battery cables work the same as they are also twelve volt ? I ask because on my 1990 Cummins I replaced the ground cable with a gas powered cable and everything worked fine. Just a thought.

I do not know how to enter information about me or my truck, directions would be appreciated. 1998.5 Dodge Regular Cab Cummins, 4x4, 5 on the floor. All factory except for Heat Shield and BHAF {Donaldson #1005006} and Fass ddrp.

Driving down the road and the Tach drops to zero, truck bucks like no fuel then maybe does it again then runs fine and always starts on first hit. Fp idle 22, wot 18, oil pressure cold 95+ warm 180* 75* . Worries me that possibly leave me stranded somewhere. Any Ideas? 1998.5 Dodge / Cummins, 4x4, 5 speed, 202k miles, stock from factory except for Donaldson Filters and Fass DDRP lift pump and new inner cooler hoses, Batteries and Alt. two years old.

Carquest Parts. Was this Carquest steering box a OEM rebuild by Carquest?

The Walmart Super Tech is good stuff. I can tell the difference in my Cummins. I live in the country and noticed that my Kubota tractor was making what sounded like a squeek/ rattle from the motor so I added Super Tech, one ounce per gallon of diesel and the squeek/rattle is gone. The tractor runs great but I think it is using more fuel.

Look at the first photo, to the rear sway bar, it looks bent and the bushing attachment looks broken. Repairing this would be a good place to start.

I installed the same links from Rock Auto. I like the grease fittings and they work fine.

I would check the tires for tread separation or blisters.

My Dodge was all over the road. I read everything I could find on all available Diesel Websites and installed a Steering Brace [online purchase $199.95] which helped. Then I had my tires rotated and balanced and that helped but did not solve the problem. Went to my Mechanic and he tested my Ball Joints which were fine, but still had the steering problem. Finally I checked my tires again and found two were blistered, tread was separating from casing so I bought two new Firestone TransForce Tires and they really helped but still had wondering and vibration so I installed four new Monroe Gas filled shocks, Steering Shock Asorber and new Sway Bar Links which solved the problem. My truck drives like it was new. I'm going to buy two matching tires and replace the rear Sway Bar Links ASAP. This Dodge is a great truck but they are like our women. You gott'a take care of them.