kerley

My 1998.5 Cummins has had 15-40 Rotella all It's life, with 202727 miles there have been no issues and she does not burn oil or smoke.

Okay, The weather here was from 23*- 32* for about ten days when I made my post. After reading all suggestions I started thinking and decided since I did not need the truck for the next week I would just let it sit till the weather warmed up. Today is the third day of sunny warm wearher, about 72* so I drained my diesel/water separator and started her up. She started on the first hit and the FP guage read as It should. I want to thank all you guys for sharing your thoughts with me.

Mopartechnician, Autometer electric Rancherman, One time occurance, normal pressure is 24 idle, 18-20 crusing, 16-18 wot. Pressure tap is a Hydrolic Needle Valve plumed into the fuel filter on the vp44 side. Molon Labe, will do. Mopar 1973 Man, I have a needle valve installed between the factory fuel filter and the guage We have had a week of cold weather, -20* at nite. I will check everything and post it. Thank's friend's.

I may have a problem with my lp or fpg not sure. Yesterday I started my Cummins and noticed that the dash buzzer and wait to start light did not come on. The truck had been sitting for eight days without starting. After starting I noticed the fp fluctuated between 28 and 20 several times while at idle. Once driving it fluctuated between 18 and 24. The only thing I have done was changed the fuel filter when I serviced the truck about fifty miles ago. I installed a Donaldson ff. I believe I read that the Donaldson ff was 10 micro. I cant figure this deal out. Anyone had this problem before?

I love my Dodge/Cummins. When my G/N trailer full of cattle hit the hi-way I just accelerate and grin.

In Alabama and any where else I have bought Diesel the Diesel pump handle has the GREEN cover on it. In Alabama British Petroleum aka BC pumps all have the green cover weather it pumps gas or diesel.

My 1998.5 Cummins has no crank case breather bottle. Did all Cummins oem have this bottle ? I'm going to check the KDP and replace the front crank seals, is there anything else I should check or repair while It's opened up ?

I'm puzzled. My 1998.5 Cummins does not have a PUKE bottle. My truck is all oem except the BHAF. So if I don't have the PUKE bottle, where does the Puke go? Also if my front Gear cover does not have the Puke bottle does this indicate the newer updated front cover that secures the KDP. Kerley

While servicing my truck I noticed a severe oil leak coming from what appears to be the Crank Shaft. If I were repairing the KDP how much more work would it be to replace the CS Seal? This is a first for me and help/ Information about the procedure will be appreciated. Is there a write up on this?

Speaking about mouse damage. When I services my Dodge I found a mouse nest in my factory air filter box.

My passenger window is kind'a wakkie aswell. Sometime's it works/ and don't work at all. I can't figure it out. I know it use to stop half way down/up. If it was the motor it would not work at all. The driver's window has always worked as it should. I guess with opening and closing the doors wires could be loose.

I'm preparing to check and repair my KDP. I down loaded directions from Geno's Garage. One question Geno's directions did not address was the removal of the Harmonic Balancer and Crank shaft pulley. I believe they are both Keyed and only go on one way. My question is "Do I need a gear puller" to remove them. Information will be appreciated, Thank you.

If you figger yours out let me know and I'll do the same. I guess I'm kind of like you, more pressing things to do. Best of luck~Kerley

Yesterday afternoon I read every post about Cruise Control on this forum. There was only one personHEAVY DUTY aka Delano Watts, that had the same problem as I have. There was never a conclusion or remedy to solve his problem, his thread just went dead. I am telling this story so everyone knows that I honestly tried to solve this by myself using information supplied by members. With this said I will submit my problem and hope to find a remedy.My cruise control has never worked sence I have owned this truck. When I press the CC button on the steering wheel the green lite, lites up as It should. The vacuum required to operate the HVAC heater/defroster works as It should. I have not messed with the vacuum pump which could I guess contribute to the problem. I have read about the clock spring which I suspect could be the problem.?Can someone chime in with some useful information? Thanks members

Thank you Mike. I tried it your way and all is well.

Thanks Mike, I'll try to firure it out. I think I need to hit the remember me before I hit enter.

Once I log in to this site how long do I stay logged in before I am no longer logged in. The problem is that by the time I type my post and hit the post button I am told that I am not logged in at all, so what's up.

Like I said, I don't drive the Dodge very much these days. Fuel is four dollars a gallon and we live ten miles from town so we try to plan out trips to do all town business together. I drove the truck yesterday and the dash guage showed a total discharge, even the fuel and oil pressure guages showed zero pressure. I shut her down for ten minutes and fired her back up and all was normal. This morning there was hardly enough juice to turn her over and guages shower zero or discharge. I knew the batterys were new so I installed a new Alternator and all is well again. With 200K on the clock I don't think the Alternator owed me anything and all is well now.

I replaced both fuse and circuit breaker and now I have power. I called the trouble shooting number on the Break Controler installation directions. The harness wires color code was different than the manufacturer had on their schematics, I was puzzled so I disconnected the control wires from the exposed truck harness. I found where someone had patched the wires so I disconected the patch and found the oem wiring harness which had color code provided by the Break Control folks and all is working now as expected. I thank all who helped me with this project.

My trailer brakes quit working so I bought a new Tekonsha Primus IQ Brake Controller. The Controller has a wiring harness that plugs into the Controller, the other end of the wiring harness has no plug, just wires. The old Tekonsha Controller was connected to the wiring harness with wire connectors [no oem plug?] While disconnecting the old Controller I cut the hot wire and It sparked [i must have hit metal and grounded it out. This is the Problem: The hot wire is no longer hot. I have checked all fuses and none found are blown out. Is there another inline fuse that I have missed? It is very tight under the dash around the Headlight switch area and many wires. Have any of you ever had to deal with this type of problem? What was your remedy?. Thank you, Tom

I am running stock fuel line and filter with a Fass ddrp2. I have had no problem whatsoever. I have read about replacing the banjo bolt fittings with larger less fuel restrictive fittings. I'm thinking I could change the banjo bolt at the vp44 to the enlarged "DRILLED" banjo bolt and run 1/2" fuel hose to the OEM Filter.I guess my question is, "Is the OEM Filter housing drillable to handle a 1/2" hose fitting". I need some advice from members that have been there done that.Thank you, Kerley

The previous owner has cut the wiring harness under the dash and hard wired the trailer break control wiring. I am now attempting to install a new trailer break control unit and I would like to repair the previous owners work back to oem. I need the oem end of the plug. Does anyone know where to buy the part?

Thank's for the advice, what I want to know is if I put new tires on the Front or Rear will I damage my truck if I drive without using the 4 wheel drive. Drive in 2 wheel drive only?

Will it damage my 4x4 if I install new tires on the rear only? All tires are factory oem size.

Why?