Youngblood24v

Just today it hit 37psi but it still falls on its face for 2 seconds while the throttle remains constant then regains boost and falls on its face again. So it’s not at a set psi I guess just once the power starts to really come in it just falls out for 2 seconds then tries to come back in For some reason I can’t post the data log onto here but it will go from 22 psi in one frame then 15psi then 0 as if I had let off the throttle 100% and then got back into it but the throttle position in the data log remains the same throughout the whole thing

I will give this a try. After looking at the data log boost will build up to 22 psi then go back to zero for 2 seconds then it will try to build boost up to 22 psi and do the cycle all over again. It’s acting like the quadzilla boost fooler isn’t working and the ecm is trying to defuel due to an overboost. I’ve turned all defuel settings off so they shouldn’t be a factor.

file:///C:/Users/luttig/Downloads/Datalog WOT facefall .pdf

So today leaving work I went and took off. Turbo lit like normal but as soon as the power started to come in and boost hit 29psi it just fell on its face for a second or two like it had no power. Lost all boost then it started acting like normal and would try to build boost again and would fall on its face once again. All while my foot/throttle is in the same position. It did this the whole way home. It’s acting like it’s defueling once the power starts to come in like torque management but it will do it at any speed and has never had torque management issues before. I’ve attached a a data log of it and am going to try to upload the video of it happening

1500: 15 2000: 18 2500: 23 3000: 25 Max: 26

My whole truck is the definition of drag. It’s like sail in the wind. I’d have to check to see what my timing is exactly. It’s pretty conservative. I don’t believe the lines play a factor as when I replaced my tappet cover I replaced my lines because they were really rusted and the scheid stainless lines were around $100 cheaper than stock size lines and I knew the difference between the stock and .078 wasn’t going to make it loose or anything so I went with the .078 lines. When I did this I had no change in fuel mileage or drivability at all. I get the same mileage currently as I did with my stock rims/tires. I believe they were 235/85r16 stock size tires

17 seems about average for people, meanwhile I still get roughly 13.5mpg with this cold weather no matter if it’s highway or city driving and 15mpg during the warmer months

Pulled valve cover this morning. #1 cylinder rocker arm but appears to have backed off and and wasn’t doing anything consequently. Going to find someone with a feeler gauge and do valve lash and should be good to go! I’m just happy it’s on #1 so it won’t be too bad but I’ll more than likely go through and do them all since I’m in here.

Have fuel pressure and oil pressure. That’s what I’m hoping. This injectors are only maybe a year old. Going to try and figure out which cylinder is dead and take that injector out and clean it first to see if that does anything. Yup I plan on doing this once it stops raining.

So this morning I started the truck and drove to class and everything was normal. Get out of class 2hrs later and go to start the truck and as soon as I do I know something isn’t right. Truck had a miss and. Is smoking white haze pretty bad. Whole engine is shaking and engine is missing sounds like. No knocking or anything like that. Injectors are only a year old. What would cause it to just go bad while sitting for a couple hours? Had the truck towed to my apt and am going to swap in my stock injectors once I get time (currently pouring cold rain) and hopefully that fixes the issue

100% wiretap is working, I’ve verified with a test light that’s it connected and you can feel the difference between can only mode and with wiretap mode

It shouldn’t be defueling is the thing. All defuel permaters on the quad are turned off. And I shouldn’t be out of injector as my turbos only a 67mm with a small backhousing, could my turbo be choking it out on the top end?

Truck runs great but when I go WOT it just feels like it runs out of power on the top end. I have the wastegate at ~40Psi and drive pressure will hit ~55-60psi at WOT. Truck just kind of dulls out at anything 80+mph. Is this symptoms of valve float? Truck does have stock springs in it and I know I’m already ordering some new ones since it needs them anyways just hadn’t gotten around to it yet. I have 3.54 gears so I’m not reving the truck out as I only see roughly 2000rpm while going 70 in od

Truck has a wiring connection issue somewhere. It fired up Wednesday evening and has been driving like normal since... knock on wood. I can grab the wiring harnesses and wiggle everything and truck won’t act up so I can’t pinpoint it

So I got a 2000 Dodge Ram 3500 24v. Put all new injector lines and vp44 on Saturday. Drove truck all day Sunday while shutting off/ restarting multiple times. Monday rolls around and drive the truck to work, go to leave work 12hrs later and truck won’t start. Have to bleed lines to get it to start. Tuesday morning have to do the same thing. Tuesday evening can’t get the truck to bleed and notice the gauges don’t work and LP won’t turn on by key. Come back Wednesday morning and truck fires right up and everything works. Get codes 1389, 1899, 1492, 1693. Go to leave work later that day and truck fires up and I let it idle for a couple minutes while I do stuff and get in to leave and truck dies and won’t restart. Doing the no LP or gauges thing. Swapped ASD relay already and found pin 85 has 8V while checking for ground and 4V while checking for power. PCM ground checks out ok. Believe it to be the pcm internally shorted. Any input??