Red Rambler

I guess I might be looking at getting a new needle valve and redoing my gauge inlet side of things. I just recently have a new lift pump and fuel sending unit. I am honestly tired of fuel related issues! The only other thing I might try is getting a new check valve from glacier diesel as that is the cheaper part compared to the sender. I don’t think my sender should be bad this quickly. My current needle valve is 1/8 open.

Maybe 10k max. I did change the stock filter as well, and it has a new return line strainer as well. I went through 3 isspro mechanical gauges that were protected in the same fashion, and they all would start sweeping while driving, going bad. How far open does everybody have their needle valve? On my return line it has a check valve that allows you to raise or lower the fuel pressure. I have pulled it twice and checked for debris, however it was clean.

I agree that at idle the pressure would be lower but my normal idle pressure is 16, versus 11. In normal conditions my psi fluctuates from 16-19:idle-driving. Right now it is dropping while under acceleration when normally it would be increasing.

Hello, I have maybe a year on my isspro gauges and my fuel pressure gauge seems to be acting up. Is the sender an often replaced item? I have a needle valve, snubber, fuel hose plumbed to my sender. My hose is 6 ft long to my sender. At idle it is fluctuating from 11 psi and at idle revving to 2k it is at 18 psi. Just trouble shooting on where to start.

As an update, Eric is a great guy and sent me a new sending unit and I will be sending my old one back to him. Sending unit has been installed and I now have a fully functional fuel gauge..its the small things, truly. I was cruising to town the other day, had my tunes going, life was well..and I notice my new isspro boost gauge bouncing to the beat of the music, not literally, but close. Its electric, but I read online that a few people have had this issue, if daisy chaining the guages together that their boost gauge does similar to mine. So, they relocated the boost gauge to ground by itself, gonna try that. This feels like my ongoing truck issue thread..

7.Ensure you are standing on one leg, facing north! Kidding. But good luck. Seems to be how most things go for me, got my directions, I'm good to go, and a swing and a miss..

This is my same experience after digging into a bit..and the cost I couldnt justify at the time, going through the dealer..turns out my key works just fine.

Thanks @JAG1, I am hoping if my current one is defective than Eric can help me out on a new one. I will likely send my new(broken) one back to him if he can reuse it.

I called and talked to Eric at vulcan, he said often they get damaged in shipping. So I am going to pull it, check wiring inside the sender and if all looks correct he said he would send me a new one. Thankful for that. Will likely get it pulled in the next few days.

Thanks DF, I think I would rather gamble on a Mopar genuine part, the ebay part. Just not sure what basket to put it on lol, maybe the brand new basket...I concur on the newer cars, my wifes subaru is a pain..you have to pull the plastic inner fender liner to change the low beam headlight bulb, and spark plugs...cant hardly get to them at all and its a 4 cylinder...I am fighting it hard myself...would rather throw parts at my 20 YO truck any day of the week than to look at prices of a new truck, gas or diesel..

I ordered my sending unit from Vulcan roughly 2 months ago..I found the same sending unit on DAP, Vulcan brand that I need..It is $20 cheaper on the DAP site. I really dont want to buy another sending unit, but will call Vulcan to see what two pins they suggest probing for ohms on their sending unit before pulling it. Pretty sure I OHM tested all pins in every variation. But you never know. edit, per the DAP site: "Using an OHM meter connect leads to the two center pins on the plug. There should be an approximate 180-200 Ohm spread from low to high." I have done this step multiple times, so I am just going to quit fighting it and pull the dang sending unit again. SOB!! If I was to go the route of just buying a new float/sender, would I have to calibrate it? Or would I be able to install it, check the range of ohms and ensure its the correct spread? I am considering buying the below to install versus buying another $200 basket/float.

Glad to hear you got it figured out. Where on DAP's site did you find the fuel baskets? I didnt see any. The only place I found a replacement basket with NO liftpump in it, was Vulcan.

I am wondering if a wire has maybe come loose. I haven’t moved the new unit or handled it much at all. It sit in my shed for a month or so. But it has to come back out at this point. Dang it! I should of checked it before install. That is on me. Hopefully just a loose connection.

It’s the middle two pins. I tested my old one first and it ranges from 20.3 to 150.7, and should range higher, but stops at 150.7. Thus telling me I have a 1/4 of a tank, when I truly don’t. My new sending unit will not read at all on any combination of pins.

My sheet included with my unit says 219.6 ohms, and 19.9 ohms..so 219.6 Empty, and 19.9 full. I will see what I can get figured out..I really dont want to pull it again but if its not working then im going to have to anyways. Not sure how my wiring could be bad, I guess my next option would be to cut my wires and solder them again? if my unit checks out fine.

So the connector has 4 pins on it, you know which two pins I should OHM check? Also, would I need the sending unit out of the tank, to move the float?

Is there anything that has to be reset after changing a sending unit as my fuel gauge is on empty and my fuel light is on after replacing my sending unit. I did cut my old electrical connector of and soldered a new one on because my tabs are broke. I’m currently stumped. I had the batteries unhooked while changing my sending unit.

I concur, I feel pretty good rolling down the road windows down, and super clear music playing plenty loud. I might do a sub in the future and will checkout Skar. I’m tapped out on truck funds lately. Need to log some miles for a bit. But I’ll be listening to some good music!!

Here is my final install, I'm really happy with the sound and I can Bluetooth, or plug n play my iPhone quickly, those were my two goals.

Looks like a good option if you want the screen option. Pretty big screen for a single din.

Well, tired of tracking my mileage and filling fuel based on mileage. Pulled my tank today, not terrible, but not fun either. Top of my sending unit was filthy. One issue I ran into was the tabs on my electrical connector. The tabs to release the connector broke immediately so I ended up cutting the wires, and will have to solder/heat shrink the wires back together. I fought that connector more than the fuel line quick connectors. Gonna finish up tomorrow and put it back in and this jerk...

Thanks for the reminder, I ordered a 10 pack of the fuses. I found a fuse holder locally, but it was for the glass fuses which I would have never found locally. Amazon is my go to place.

Today I installed my radio and amp, but still waiting on my ANL 40 amp fuse to be delivered. Couldn’t find one locally. I used a metra wiring adapter so I didn’t have to cut any factory wiring. I wired mine just like @IBMobile did except I used a new head unit. Once I got the plugs out of the back of my radio. The colors were of course not a direct match. The metra harness was wired 100% correct, but I had to verify and found the below website with the correct colors for wiring. Maybe help somebody someday. https://www.installdr.com/InstallDocs/DCP/PDF/327009.pdf

Rich sounding music is relative to your definition, however, with the Polks, they are very clear IMO, and I am not getting any distortion like I was before with stock speakers, when all 4 decided to work at once. Are you getting a lot of distortion?

I am not a radio guy but trust your opinion on the pioneer units. Crutchfield offers the 60 day MBGuarantee, so if the alpine isn’t what I hope it is, I will likely return it and buy the 80prs pioneer from them. I am truly looking for Bluetooth more than anything, so if the alpine connects quickly and doesn’t drop I think I will be happy. I appreciate your input though. I do have an older 68 c10 I am building that I might go the pioneer route on.