Red Rambler

Thanks. I probed the #15 fuse which is the 20A cigar lt fuse and got 12v key on. Can I simply use the add a circuit fuse holder to that location or would it be best to find that wire and splice into it, then add my inline fuse?

Hello, looking for help on where to pull my 12V ignition power from for my isspro gauges. I am planning on daisy chaining all 3 gauges together. It comes with a supplied 1 amp fuse, but would I need a larger fuse if daisy chaining all 3 gauges together? Or will the 1 amp fuse still suffice? I have read a lot of stuff and everybody seems to be doing it their own way, or different ways at least. My plan is to pull keyed power and run an in-line fuse. Thanks in advance for the help. Wiring is not something I am great at.

I did get my entire HVAC box out, twice..as I had to use my truck in between taking it apart and waiting on my new evaporator core to arrive. It arrived yesterday and I put it all back together. I went to my dads and we charged it, the AC is blowing nice and cold. It vacuumed down quickly and no issues putting the R134a back in. Gonna run it a few days, make sure it continues to cool nicely, the air coming out of the vents is ice cold! I did put my HVAC box all back together, however it does have the plastic blend door coupler on it, as I did not change the control knob to the 12 o'clock position. I did however install the stud and nut on the rear of the actuator motor so i am hopeful I can get the heater treater part in by pulling the carpet back just a bit to get to the rear stud/nut. I do have pictures that I took and will upload those just for reference in case anybody needs them in the future. What a mess though, pulling the dash twice was not fun. I thank everybody for their help with this!

IB Mobile, for the heater treater part to fit, does the vent setting need to be on a specific setting for the heater treater part to fit on? I tried putting mine on, however it would never line up, essentially like the motor was not on the right setting, the gears inside and i didnt want to try and force it. I am sure it is listed somewhere, but cant find that info.

I haven't forgotten about this thread but have been lazy, I wont lie. I have a 68 Chevy C10 that I have been focusing on. However, this weekend, I tackled the AC system. Went nice and slow, all came apart as it should. The plastic on the dash is quite easy to crack I quickly learned. I got my HVAC box taken apart, but as luck would have it, I received the wrong A/C Evaporator Core. I have to use my truck this week, so I buttoned it all back up and am currently waiting on my new Evaporator. I didnt take many pictures but will do so since I get to do this twice!! I think the next time will go more quickly since I know what I am doing.

Thank you, I will be picking that up.

Thus far I have purchased: Blower motor, accumulator kit, O-rings, condenser to evaporator line, orifice tube, a bottle of PAG 100, Evaporator and heater core. I still need to find the AC mineral oil. I plan on taking a few days to complete this but will take some pictures for reference upon reinstall. Thanks for the help with this so far, I know I will likely have more questions. I will be ordering the heater treater part as well for the blend door. This is quite pricy, so fingers crossed it is the evaporator and not the compressor lol!!

Thanks Tractorman, I will take a look at the cabin filters. I can only assume my compressor is original with 140K on it. At this point I am jus throwing parts at it. I have these added to my rockauto cart, Blower motor resistor: 20.79, Blower motor 39.79, and a A/C accumulator/dryer kit: O rings, accumulator, and condenser to Evaporator Line: 34.79. I will take a look at the Heater treater part, as I might as well if I am inside the HVAC box.

That will be my next part to replace if the evaporator does not fix the issue. The evaporator was the cheaper of the two evils, but would likely be harder to replace..However, I did get a few hits inside the cab with the sniffer, so that's why I decided to start there. I do hear a clunk at times when the heat is turned on. What would cause that to happen?

So, its been a minute since I have messed with my AC, but I have purchased an evaporator and a heater core. I am looking to tackle this repair soon, before the heat sets in...I didn't drive my truck much last summer due to the AC issue. I never could find the leak even with the sniffer, so my thoughts are that it is likely the AC evaporator core. I did get a few hits with the sniffer inside the cab, close to the HVAC box, but no hits anywhere under hood. While I have the HVAC box pulled, are there any wear items I should consider putting in while its apart? Thanks.

My strainer is pre pump, and my filter is post pump, if that is what you mean?

I have the fuel boss as well for 20,000 miles and it has been flawless besides one hiccup. The smallest piece of debris can keep the check valve open on the return line and then the fuel flows without any restriction, and your pressure drops. This issue has been alleviated by installing a fuel STRAINER on the feed line made by fleet guard, not a fuel filter, but a strainer to catch the larger material. If you happen to get any dirty fuel it can be a pain to get fully cleaned out and back to normal 17-20 fuel pressure.

Thanks @Junkman I am going to try the leak detector first. See if I can pinpoint where the leak is coming from. That guy is passionate about that ac stop leak for sure.

I am going to guess replacing the bolt isn’t going to fix your leak. Mine had a similar leak but all bolts intact, and it made a huge mess on the front of my engine as well as all down the drivers side block, it was the actual vacuum pump seal. I thought mine was the oil pan. Resealed my vacuum pump and leak fixed. If you do go this route make sure you put the oil feed line back on before you attempt to secure the pump back to the case. However I do hope that putting the single bolt back in solves your problem. The bolts are 15MM that hold the pump to your case, but can’t recall if fine or coarse thread.

I was just looking over your article where you discuss this and have a strap from the passenger side grab bar. I feel comfortable enough taking it apart, but will take a few days to do it for sure. That’s a great suggestion to possibly save myself some time, I might check with oreilly, see if they have one for rent.

Sorry, r134a is what was added. Not engine coolant. I saw on rock auto they aren’t expensive at all, roughly $40, for evaporator core and heater core. I would rather throw new parts at the hvac box while it’s out, but will do some more reading and found the moparman article on the hvac box removal.

Thanks @dripley and @Bullet I am going to tackle this for sure, I have a Tahoe that I can drive while my truck is down. Gonna look up the moparman article for the dash. I appreciate the help. What else should be replaced while I’m in there? Or is their a kit for rebuilding it?

Thanks! I hate throwing parts at unknown problems but when it comes to AC sounds like that might be my best bet. I might start with the new compressor, since it is the lesser of the two evils or so it sounds. Thanks bullet, I have not messed with anything AC honestly so I’m gonna look up the evaporator, see if I can find a few pictures of someone diving into this repair previously since it sounds pretty involved.

Since warm weather is just around the corner I need to get my A/C fixed. I filled it with new coolant and it lasted good for a month, but it eventually leaked out. I used the leak test stuff that you put into the AC lines and you use the glasses and the light to check for leaks however did not find the leak. Where are the most common places to check for leaks or even replace? I thought about buying a new seal kit but wanted to get some opinions first. Thanks all.

I would also grab a fleet guard fuel strainer to run on your fuel feed line which will catch the larger stuff if you happen to run across some dirty fuel. Fleetguard FF5079 https://www.glacierdieselpower.com/i-1140-fleetguard-ff5079-3-8-inline-strainer.html

I will for sure pull my center caps and spray the axle but with some of your mixture. It will be a few days before I get to it. Yes, thanks for the reminder. I have not even thought about the axle nut until now. I have a few breaker bars and cheater pipes to throw at it. I am hopeful to do one side in a days time, unless all goes smoother than planned. Not likely though.

Haha. Thanks for that. I will for sure give it heck. It will all have anti seize applied once I do get it apart.

Nope. Not by me and it doesn’t appear to have ever been apart. I have been spraying it with PB Blaster for a few weeks now.

That’s the truth. Not a ton of things, but I’ll take it when it’s an option. Thanks, I’m gonna need a little luck from all the hours others have spent trying to separate the hub

The u joints showed up today. Beefy units, I looked and they appear to be the identical units as the stock u joints. MADE IN THE USA-maybe everybody else knew this.