LiveOak

My understanding is that when being checked for red dye diesel fuel, a clear plastic flexible tube is used to insert into the tank and the tester holds their "tax feeding" finger over the end of the tube and then pulls the tube out of the filler neck to observe the color. If it is green, you are good to go. If it is red, you have some explaining to do and a LOT of money taken from you. I used to use red dye fuel around the farm for my tractor but the price of red dye diesel has gradually gone up to the point that I can go to the Walmart and buy diesel CHEAPER than I can buy the red dye diesel at the COOP. The illegitimate law does state that you must allow them to check your tank if they decide to inspect you. That doesn't mean that you can't make them SORELY regret doing so by dragging your feet, requesting they show you in writting what the law states and make them spend HOURS tied up with you. Just remember to ALWAYS be VERY polite and courteous. Yes sir or maam! Then with order they give you ask them "does the law require me to comply". Then they must provide that information. If they get nasty, continually ask them "is this a search or my vehicle" "I DO NOT agree to or allow searches without a warrant or inspections without proven documentation requiring it" , "am I being detained" or am I "free to leave"? Repeated tell them that you will cooperate FULLY within the requirements of law. When they any questions, ask them "does the law require me to answer you"? Make sure you record the encounter. The above is IF you have MANY HOURS to burn, otherwise let them check the tank. My advice is to NEVER let one of these UNAMERICAN thug, domestic terrorist search your vehicle and cooperate to the ABSOLUTE MINIMUM the law requires. ALWAYS give them your drivers license and registration when asked and again be VERY NICE about it. DO NOT give them anything else. These pigs are LAZY, when they discover you are NOT going to roll over easy for them and tie them up for hours, they will likely move on to someone else (read weak sheep) who will. Behaving toward them in an aggressive or rude manner will pretty much automatically give them rationalization (justification in a pigs mind) for "probably cause" and you have just thrown the game in their favor and they can do whatever they want. ALWAYS record the encounter. If they search over your objections and you have it recorded, any evidence they obtain can be excluded in court. Sadly, most folks to a degree understandably just rollover and give in because they have lives to live, family, children, or friends waiting in the vehicle or other things like WORK and trying to put food on the table and cannot waste half the day exercising their NATURAL BORN rights and liberties. Bottom line is that in the end if these anti-American domestic terrorist want to check your tank or do pretty much anything they want........they will force the issue, intimidate, or in the end get what they want. A good example of this is road side sobriety, seatbelt compliance, and driver license check points.

These guys can explain it better than I can: http://www.pureflowairdog.com/how.html

Sounds more like your cord shorted out. Mine did that several years back and the dealer just replaced the cord and all has been fine since. (knock on wood)

I use Amalgamated TDR-S formula during summer and warm weather and use the TDR-WDA forumula for winter. I bought a 5 gallon pail of each. I added in the Walmart Supertech 2 stroke oil at about 1 oz. per gallon just to be on the safe side with lubricity. Probably don't need both. But it is cheap insurance. http://www.amalgamatedinc.com/tdr-wda.aspx http://www.amalgamatedinc.com/tdr-s.aspx

I am very happy with the F1 Mach 1.6 injectors. They can be a bit smokey in low boost situations but once you become adjust to driving with them and make throttle increases more gradual, they rarely smoke. When used with the the Edge EZ the engine is MUCH more responsive and I have to be smooth on the throttle to prevent axle wrap. They did cause a big EGT problem until I installed the BHAF and 5 inch straight pipe exhaust. The F1's would be a good choice for a pretty much stock engine and stock clutch. With the 1.6's and the Edge EZ I can slip the stock clutch currently in my truck if I pull or haul a heavy load and accelerate to fast in 5th and 6th gear. Empty I am OK.

Joe, between this truck and the 4030, sounds like you have your hands full. Best of luck getting everything back together and running right.

DON'T do it! These devices sound good on paper but are a source of leaks, endless problems, and aggravation. I bought one to install on my truck but after reading all of the horror stories sold it. If you have some money that is smoking and burning a hole in your pocket, :spend:these have been around for MANY years and are a good product. http://www.accusump.com/accusump_units.html

Horsepower TV had an episode # HP2010-13 that demonstrated the different lubes and how they worked with achieving proper and safely repeatable bolt stretch and clamping load on various fasteners. http://www.powerblocktv.com/site3/index.php/horsepower-episodes?ep_num=HP2010-13&ep_sea=1001

I have an Stihl O-66 which is the predicessor of the MS660. I have the 24 inch bar on it and the 3/8 chisel tooth chain and it is a HAUS. I cannot imagine what you would use an MS 880 for unless you are a commercial logger or regularly cut REALLY big logs or trees. I use my O-66 to cut firewood and it can get a tad heavy after several hours of carrying it around, it is about 16 lbs. The MS880 is damn near 23 lbs. and more depending on the bar and chain you select. I use a Stihl MS192T for limbing and the O-66 for bucking. Both have been OUTSTANDING saws and are very efficient on gas. I have had the O-66 since 1993 and the MS192T since 2006.

Caj, Is that a typo? If not, why do you change your coolant so often?

My Honda 250 Recon has no cartridge or spin on filter either. It has an internal centrifugal oil filter built into the engine. What REALLY sucks about this design is that the engine must be removed and the case split open the access and clean the oil filter.

Pretty much anytime you can reduce the soot level in the engine lube oil, you will extend the service life of that batch of oil. The TBN, soot suspension, and other additives are consumed with increased use but any filter that removes contaminants this efficienctly will do that. These additives are consumed in most cases whether there is a by-pass filter or not. The cleaner you can keep the oil the longer is will last between drain intervals. Here are some interesting articles on this topic: http://www.heavydutytrucking.com/2005/09/074a0509.asp http://www.spinsoil.com/Profit_Builders/DieselEngineProgress1103.pdf I'll be the first to mention there may be a bit of advertising involved here but I have personally seen hour these filters work in my course of duties while on active duty in Army Aviation. The principle is sound and they do work. Exactly how good is subject to interpretation and conditions in which they are employed.

I posted some info. on this: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2946-Anybody-using-the-Spinner-II-PT-Model-25-oil-centerfuge-on-their-truck http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2999-Installation-Instructions-Cummins-Fleetguard-CH41102-Centrifual-Bypass-Oil-Filter http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2998-Cummins-Fleetguard-Centriguard-Centrifugal-Bypass-Oil-Filter-amp-Lube-System-Tutorial http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/3000-Cummins-Fleetguard-Link-to-Filtration-Technical-Library In a nutshell, the centerfuge rotor spines at around 6,000 rpm. The contaminants such as soot, dirt, and other material are theoretically heavier than the oil and are slug up against the centerfuge filter bowl. The clean oil runs down to the drain and back into the oil pan. These systems are "so they claim" able to remove particles as small as .1 micron which is the size neighborhood of soot particles. In my opinion, soot accumulation plays the large part in engine lube oil deterioration and next would be the TBN and other additives that eventually break down or are consumed. The oil in a diesel reaches unacceptable levels of soot LONG before the additive package is exhausted. Depending upon what type and brand of oil you use in your engine, these centerfuge by-pass filters I think would readily pay for themselves in a reasonable amount of time. Especially with wildly expensive engine lube oils like Amsoil, Royal Purple, and some others. Cheaper oils would of course require a much longer cost recovery period.

I think the best solution to what you are after is employing measures and equipment to keep your engine's oil as clean and contaminant free as is possible. A good engine oil lube by-pass filter is the best step in my opinion as this will keep the oil at it peak effectivness during its service life as well as extend that service life by changing the factors that determine it, namely oil contamination and the oil additive package. By eliminating the contamination issue, the oil additive package becomes the determining factor for the most part on when to change the oil. From what I have learned so far, the 2 most effective options are the Frantz toilet paper by-pass filter and the centrifugal by-pass filters. I personally prefer the centrifugal type by-pass filter. It is just a worry wart thing with me but I cannot get past the thought of toilet paper in my engines lube oil system. That does NOT mean that the Frantz by-pass filters are HIGHLY effective and do a great job.......they do and do it ecomonically albeit somewhat "messily". I am leaning towards the centrifugal type by-pass filter because it is much easier to keep clean and serviced and in most cases does not require any filter element to constantly be replaced. You just have to establish a service interval that reliably ensures the centerfuge filter catch bowl is cleaned BEFORE it becomes overly full or clogged up. In anycase, whichever by-pass filter system you use PROVIDED it can filter down to .1 micron level will significantly increase the service life and lubrication properties of the oil you use by removing nearly all contaminants, especially SOOT which plays a HUGE factor in the service life and lubrication properties of the oil in your engine. For instance, in the General Electrice T-700 and T-701C turboshaft engines I used to workon and maintain in another life, there was no oil change service interval per se. As long as the oil level was up to the proper level, no chips, metalic, or other debry was captured by the chip detectors or screens OR no other malfuction or issues required maintenance which caused the oil to be drained.......the oil stayed in the engine the full time between overhauls. In turboshaft and other jet type engines, there are no combustion byproducts that come in contact with the oil so unless there is an internal mechanical or other failure to cause metal chips or other contamination the oil stays clean. Even engines that did throw a chip light in the cockpit would be inspected and oil samples taken BEFORE the oil would be changed or the engine removed for maintenance in the engine shop. Once the engine was repaired it was placed on the METTS engine stand witch is the equivalent of a dynomometer and they were run to max power engine rpm spectrum horsepower and max horsepower were recorded for the historical records. Then the engine was placed back in service but I digress and am wonder off topic now. I am like you with respect to Amsoil. I LIKE their products and use them where it makes sense. The Amsoil Heavy Duty Marine Diesel Oil is one of my favorites BUT it is HUGELY costly and with shipping it is just FAR to expensive to justify in my opinion. If the oil change interval could be doubled or trippled with the use of a good by-pass filter, then is might be a good choice. Anyhow, just my worth.

I think a stock HY35 will readily handle 350 hp while at the same time providing good drivability and a quick spool up. I would suggest looking into going to a 5 inch straight pipe or low restriction muffler and a better set of fuel injectors. Both of these will improve EGT's, boost pressure, and spool up time. Pretty much any new turbo is gonna cost you an arm and a leg.......some both legs and part of the other arm. Another option you might consider is installing a Holset HE351 variable geometry turbo. Here is an interesting article on this upgrade: http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/dodge/1011dp_equipping_a_99_dodge_ram_with_a_variable_geometry_turbo/index.html

I would NOT count on the accuracy of the fuel gauge. Mine used to read in the same manner as yours does. Everything worked fine including the low fuel light and chime. Then out of nowhere with just under 3/4 of a tank of fuel showing, the engine just instantly died while driving up a steep hill on a narrow stretch of rural highway. Here is an article on repairing the fuel sender but these things are made out of cheap chinese crap that does not last. http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/fuel_sender/Huey_C-sender.htm

I think you ran out of fuel. The fuel level indicators in these trucks are notorious for going bad and giving a false reading. I never run my truck below a half tank. My truck will run out of fuel just below 3/4 of a tank indicated on the fuel guage.

I would definitely get an OBDIII scan tool or you can borrow a friend's Smarty if they have one to check and verify what if any codes may be stored in the ECM. What exactly is the fuel pressure at the VP-44? You will need a fuel pressure test guage. This is one very similar to what I use. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Fuel-Pressure-Tester-with-Schrader-Connection-p/fpt.htm Although is does sound like your lift pump is making pressure and pushing fuel up to the IP, you should know exactly how much. Sometimes these pumps gradually die a slow death and take out the IP with it. If you were able to bleed the fuel lines upto the fuel injector and through the VP-44 as well as have good fuel pressure, it is looking like the VP-44 may be Kaput.

I just got in both the front and read Mag Hytec differential covers to install on my truck. I am coming up on 69,000 miles and plane to change the diff. oil and install both covers at the same time. Got a real nice deal on a Mag Hytec Dana 80 and Dana 60 vented diff. covers for $453.15 delivered from Diesel Power Products. The magnetic dipstick makes frequent checking of the diff. oil MUCH more convenient. The magnetic drain plug makes changing diff. MUCH MUCH easier as well PROVIDED you catch it BEFORE the diff. oil gets fowled.

I am not sure but I plan to give Cummins a call Monday to ask a lot of questions about these bypass filters.

This link takes you to a technical library covering every aspect of filtration covering all aspects of Cummins diesel engines. http://www.filterfinder.com/cummins_filtration.htm

After MUCH wading through and reading I found this installation instruction manual for the Cummins/Fleetguard model CH41102 Centrifual Bypass Oil Filter which apparent is the correct filter for use on our 5.9 and 6.7 liter truck engines. Hope this and the training tutorial I posted helps to shine a bit more light and understanding of just how and why these filters work and the tremendous benefits they offer. http://www.fleetguard.com/pdfs/product_lit/americas_brochures/SB_LT32597.pdf

This is a bit of a long read BUT it is PACKED with a LOT of very interestinig and relevant information. http://www.fleetguard.com/pdfs/training/centriguard_training.pdf

Can you post a link to the Spinner filters on eBay?

Installing on our trucks today as well.