LiveOak

Maybe I did something wrong but it only will let me vote one time.

I have about 68,800 on mine. I thinke hers has about 140,000. You need to edit your poll so us 2 truck families can vote twice!

Some folks super glue or locktite the key on the shaft so it won't fall off. Definitely some cheap insurance. Just be sure the key is installed the correct way or that timing will be a little off. I think the video's cover that too.

That sure looked like salt water to me. Those guys are going to REALLY regret doing that in a year or so when that salt water eats up the wiring and sheetmetal. Not smart.

I always start plugging mine in when the temps start dropping down at night in the Fall. It does save a LOT of wear and tear on the batteries. I believe the block heater is 750 watt which would draw about 6.25 amps give or take. I try to use as short an extension cord as is possible to limit voltage drop and plug the block heater, extension cord and all into a 1850 watt capable timer that turns on the power about 4 hour before starting up the truck in the morning. That way the wife has a quicker start and faster heat on the way to work in the morning. I also install the hood grill covers to block out cold air and hold in what heat gets generated by the block heater and when the engine is running.

You tree hater you!

You are going to need a gear puller to pull the gear off old pump. You may be able to rent, borrow or fabricate one. Here are a few links you may want to review before you to the R&R of the pump to keep fresh in your mind. These links and videos will help you to ensure you have all of the tools and supplies on hand to do the job and not stress out because you get stranded in the middle of the job because of a missing tool or other item: http://www.nwbombers.com/membersites/kent/vp44.html or you can go here and get them all in the same place. I may have missed some: http://www.youtube.com/user/dieseldanmac#p/u Good luck and be sure to let us know how things go!

Now this would be a SWEET transmission if it could be made to fit. http://www.roadranger.com/Roadranger/productssolutions/SpecificationGuide/LinehaulManual/index.htm --- Update to the previous post... The 7 and 9 speed versions would be a great match. I would prefer the 9 speed as it gives you a much wider range of gears to choose from pretty much in the same size package.

There is really no way to be certain but I doubt HIGHLY that this caused the P0216 code. The injection pump may have incurred wear and tear prior to the installation of the FASS pump. Running the excessive high pressure did not help either but I don't think it caused the pump to crap out. In this case, I would strongly recommend considering buying the VP-44 injector pump FASS/AirDog package and install the full version of the FASS or AirDog when you install your new pump. I would NOT under ANY circumstances run the new pump on the current FASS replacement pump until you address the high fuel pump pressure issue. This could and likely would void the warranty on the new pump.

I thought you had a 6 speed for some reason??? Was just a good natured kiddin'.

The 5th gear nut problem is on the NV4500's.

I believe the standard output (SO) injector pump is the correct pump for your truck since it has the automatic trans. This pump is the most common and came on automatic and 5 speed manual equipped trucks. Randy, I thought you said you already have a FASS installed? The 28 psi is too high a pressure and you need to adjust that down to around 18 psi. BEFORE you make ANY fuel pressure adjustments, buy or borrow a diesel fuel pressure test gauge and check to see what your actual fuel pressure is read at the injector pump schrader valve. Depending upon what type of fuel pressure gauge you have in the cab of the truck (I am going on the presumption that you DO.....if not install one) it could be a bad or improperly installed fuel pressure isolator or a bad electric sending unit or gauge. If the pressure reading is accurate, 28 psi is far too much pressure and can damage the pump and the first signs of this are usually hard starting issues. http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/vp44diagnostichelp.html

$350 a cord!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That is CRAZY high! Here you are lucky to get $100 a cord for oak or hickory already split. For $350 a cord, I can heat cheaper with propane and a heat pump. I pretty much have an unlimited supply of hardword for firewood so I cut and split it myself and get it for free.

If you could post the year, transmission, and engine data plate info. it would be helpful in recommending the correct pump. --- Update to the previous post... This is the cheapest standard output VP-44 I could find and it has free shipping. http://shops.godaddy.com/Ozark-Diesel/Bosch-Reman-VP44027-Fuel-Injection-Pump/?plv=false This is one of the most common pumps used. We still need the nitty gritty info. on your truck to make sure it is the correct pump to replace your bad one.

P1688 Internal Fuel Injection Pump Controller Failure P1689 No Communication Between ECM & Injection Pump Module I think it is a safe assumption that your VP-44 is done.

My truck engine will die at 1/3 of a tank indicated on the fuel gauge. I discovered this gross inaccuracy of the gauge sending unit the hard way, run dry in the middle of nowhere. 10 gallons of fuel and a fuel system priming, she fired right up.

If that was oak, hickory, or ash, you would almost be set for the seaon. Still too hot for that here. Maybe in another couple of months. Nice looking pile of wood you have there for a start!

As far as I have looked into it, there is NO difference in the Off Road Red Dye diesel and the regular Green Dye diesel except the color of the dye. Green says you have paid road use taxes on it. Red in a licenced vehicle on a public road will get you a huge fine.

This doesn't sound like a solenoid problem. Have you tried having someone hold a volt meter on the battery terminals to observe what the battery voltage is doing during the start attempt? The PCM should be able to stay online down to 6 volts.

Put it on eBay and see what it brings.

I am gonna have to research it to be sure as my memory SUCKS......but I think the grid heaters are also tied in the CTM relay that sets the STUPID door locks and also locks out the grid heater above a predetermined speed. The exact speed, I am not sure just yet but I believe is it approx. 13-15 mph. I am gonna have to look this up and get back to you. I still think it is a bad idea to disconnect the grid heaters. --- Update to the previous post... The link below covers what my crappy memory was getting at: http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/troubleshooting/Maniford_htr.htm So the grid heaters are not working all the time even if the IAT senses below 60 degrees. Once you begin driving and exceed approx. 15 mph. The grid heaters are disabled.

I see the grid heates in a different light. They are there to aid in the start and warm up of the engine in cold ambient temps. as well as aid in the cleaner combustion of the fuel until full operating temp is reached. If the constant cycling of the grid heaters is an issue on cold starts in the mornings, do like I do and plug the block heater in a few hours prior to start. I put the extension cord into an electric timer rated at 1850 watts and set it for 4 hours before the wife takes off for work. This warms the engine up enough so the IAT sensor senses above 60 degrees and no grid heaters. If you don't have outside power, then that is a personal preference call. The Cummins engineer designed the grid heaters into the ISB for a reason. They are not just for a cold start aid. They continue to cycle on and off until the IAT sensor senses above 60 degrees. This is what I have been doing with my truck and I am STILL running on the ORIGINAL OEM batteries. (knocking on wood)

I have as well. My understand based on a phone conversation I had with a New Venture tech engineer before they went offline was that over filling the transmission in this manner on the NV5600 did help better lubricate the transmission. I don't have anything in writing, sorry. I have been running my transmission like this for about 8 years.

I love your OEM cold weather front! Will this work on 98.5 - 02 trucks? Can you post a link to where they can be purchased? If you don't mind my asking, how much did it cost? Looks real nice!

I agree the above advice. I use Penzoil Syncromesh in the 5 gallon pale since I maintain 2 trucks but I change the fluid out about every 30,000 miles. It is VERY cheap insurance and allows you the opportunity to keep an eye on any problems that may be developing when you inspect the oil for metal particles, shavings, color, smell, etc. I bought mine from the Yahoo Oil Store: http://oilstore.stores.yahoo.net/pensyn5gal.html This is the pump I use to pump the trans. oil directly from the 5 gallon pale into the transmission. http://www.harborfreight.com/5-gallon-pail-pump-95068.html?utm_term=95068&utm_medium=cse&utm_source=googlebase They are cheap, work VERY well, have a long reach, and can be left on the pale ready for future use. I STRONGLY recommend overfilling the transmission case by at least 2 pints to ensure the #5 aft shaft bearing gets good lubrication. This bearing is a known weak point in these transmissions. Some overfill by removing a bolt from the shifter tower, others a bolt from the pto cover, I park the truck on an extremely steep slope and pump in the oil until it runs over and and then a could of quick pumps followed quickly with installing the fill plug. There are a number of transmission oils out there that are compatible, but make absolutely sure they are and specifically spell out that they meet Diamler/Chrysler MS9224 specifications. Anything else may damage your transmission.