LiveOak

The Super Tech 15W-40 Universal motor oil is made by Shell for Walmart. Pennzoil and Quakerstate are subsidiaries of Shell. http://msds.walmartstores.com/cache/339543.pdf The address in this MSDS is to Shell in Houston. The same address Pennzoil uses.

Walmart Super Tech oil is made by Shell for Walmart. I have only seen the Super Tech in 15W-40 so far. My Walmart has not had any Super Tech 5W-40 synthetic out yet that I have seen. The Walmart Super Tech oil is good oil. I use it in both of out trucks.

In addition to the 2 Dodge trucks, we recently purchased a 2009 Honda Element SC. Not sure if this qualifies as a "ricer" or other. The Honda has been a VERY nice care so far.......at least until my daughter backed it into a ditch. Does a 4410 John Deere tractor or a Honda Foreman 500 or Recon 250 qualify as a vehicle?

As the speed the truck moves through the air doubles........the wind resistance is "SQUARED". ie: there is an exponentially HUGE increase in wind resistance drag with increased speed. There are other factors as well but I think this is probably the biggest. This is something we were taught in flight school back during my days with Uncle Sam wearing a green pickle suit. :biggrin:

Do you have the Air Dog routed through the OEM fuel cannister or directly to the VP-44? Deteriorated fuel pressure is with all new filters? I agree with the comment on checking the fuel pickup basket. They are not difficult to obstruct with crud that grows in bad fuel. Going in another direction.........have you put a known accurate fuel pressure test gauge on the VP-44 schrader valve and conducted a test run? Reason I ask is that fuel isolators are NOTORIOUS for causing erroneous fuel pressure indication in the cab. I fought this very same problem with my fuel system until I replaced the fuel isolator. The origninal fuel isolator was faulty right out of the box. It would very very gradually leak between the fuel and anti-freeze side of the isolator membrane. I bought my gauge kit from Eric at Vulcan. Eric sent me a new fuel isolator, no charge and that nailed the problem. He later sent me a repair kit for the faulty isolator. The pressure was never low.........just the readings the gauge inside the cab. :rolleyes2: Hope this helps.

In addition to what Mike mentioned, check your fuel filter cannister for leaks along the plastic threaded top and don't forget the ensure the fuel cannister drain lever is in the full off position (pushed in). Could be a faulty o-ring packing on the fuel cannister plastic threaded top or the fuel drain lever is partially open. I can personally attest to the fact that they will lead if you leave the fuel drain lever open even just a little. :biggrin:

A couple of questions: 1. Are you getting good smoke while cranking for extended periods during start attempts? 2. If so, have you done a compression check? 3. Just to eliminate the static fuel leakage issue, I would suggest trying a start attempt in the following manner: a. Install a known accurate fuel pressure gauge on the IP schrader valve or some place on the fuel system where you can eye ball it during the start attempt. b. Turn of the ignition key switch being careful to listen for the fuel lift pump to be actuated for approx. .5 sec. as well as noting that the fuel system develops approx. 5 psi give or take fuel pressure. Turn the ignition switch off. c. Without starting the engine, bump the starter to trigger the 20 second fuel lift pump run. d. Once you can see that the fuel pressure has reached max. (it should reach approx. 18 -21 psi) and while the lift pump is STILL running, attempt to start the engine. Does the engine fire right up pretty much instantaneously or does it still require extended starter motor cranking? Do you get an unusually large cloud of diesel smoke upon fire off of the engine when extended cranking is required? I would think this would help to determine whether the problem is fuel pressure/leak down or compression related. If compression is weak, it woulds stand to reason that it takes several revolutions to develop enough cylinder pressure and heat to ignite the diesel fuel PROVIDED you are getting good fuel delivery. A diesel has to have food air, fuel, compression (heat) to start properly. Something is takeing one of these away. Mine starts instantaneously with a mild puff of black smoke and almost no smoke on a cold start. I am proceeding under the presumption that you have the propane disabled for troubleshooting purposes and the Edge turned off. Once and IF you get a proper start sequence, you can add these back into the system individually to determine if they are causing or effecting the problem. Hope this helps get you on the right track.

Pretty much the same set up I have on mine. I bought mine from Eric Buckle over on TDR. I replaced the lock washers and standard 1/4-20 nuts with stainless nylok nuts to keep things from rattling loose. Nice lookin' truck by the way. :thumbsup:

Can you update the links to the pictures? I would be interested in seeing how you did this with all plug in components.

I still have the original ball joints on my truck. From what I have read and heard, the Moog brand parts are good quality stuff. I would be interested in what others have to say about this.

That oil helps prevent rust and corrosion. Seriously, a certain amount of blow by is normal. Both my truck and the wife's create enough blow by to cause some "custom undercoating" of the front axle and a little bit near the back and under side of the oil pan with some occassional spatterings of the rear axle (very rare). Do you have the OEM blow by slobber bottle or have you extended the engine breather hose so it vents in front of the front axle like I did ours with some PVC pipe and flexible hose?

My understanding is that in the 2000 - 2002 2nd generation trucks, the ignition key code retrieval works. Works on my wife's truck. P0500 = P0500 No Vehicle Speed Sensor Signal (this is a very common code typically set off by tire slippage off road or slippery surfaces) it could also be a faulty vehicle speed sensor. P1693 = DTC Detected In ECM Or PCM (an accompanying companion code to alert the operator that there is a DTC in the ECM or PCM)

In stock configuration, this may be the case. In my opinion, a lot depends upon the air intake capacity and exhaust capacity. When we installed the Mach 1.6 (90 hp) injectors on my truck while leaving the stock OEM airbox & filter and OEM exhaust; the egt's were noticibly highter and under high gear load exceeded safe limits if allowed to go for very long. With the Edge EZ installed, this severely aggravated the EGT problem. I tried a drop in AFe high flow air filter which turned out to be JUNK and flowed even less air than the OEM paper filter. With both the OEM and AFe filters, I could set the filter minder with one hard pull on the engine. Next I tried the BHAF, which made a huge improvemnt in air flow and dramatically dropped the EGT's. I later added a 5 inch straight pipe exhaust which made a further improvement in EGT's as well as made for faster turbo spool times. The combination of the BHAF and 5 inch exhaust worked VERY well and now my problem is slipping the clutch. :biggrin: EGT's remain well within safe limits upto the limits of what the stock clutch can hold. Next comes the South Bend clutch and slave cylinder. :$: So, in answer to your question, the stock turbo can or should be able to safely handle an injector, intake, exahust engine configuration that produces not more than around 36 psi boost for a long life. They can produce more but in my opinion with substantially reduced life and reliability. As a rule, pretty much anytime you deviate much from OEM stock power configurations, you will be changing/upgrading a number of items in order for the engine to operate within allowable and acceptable limits. A stock engine is limited in boost by the ECM to approx. 20 psi boost. This will protect the engine from excessive EGT's in all but the most unusual circumstances if any.

Sorry to hear about the injector issue Mike. When you say "miss" are you meaning a dead cylinder misfire or an uneven idle or lope? The reason I ask is that my engine will lope from time to time especially when idling along in gear since I installed the Mach 1.6 injectors. Anyhow, hope you can get them tested and ready to install soon. That was a lot of work to take them right back out again.

I didn't ask them since both of our trucks are 2001.5 & 2002 and use the same heater element. The 99 models use a different fuel filter cannister and I suspect and different fuel heater as well. I suggest you contact Hoeslie Diesel and ask them about your 99.

That's why I went through Hoeslie Diesel to get them. They special ordered them for me and it took about 3 weeks for them to come in.

Oooooooooooh! That is a really tough break. Sorry to hear about that. I just bought a 2009 Honda Element SC and my daughter backed it into a ditch and did about $1,500 worth of damage. :$: Didn't have the brand new car for a month and dinged it up.

I believe the Geno's heater element is for the 94-98 12V engines.

Sorry to hear the bad news. The engine may run for a long time with the P0216 code but the fuel economy may suffer and it eventually will fail altogether and usually at the worst possible time and moment. This may help you to understand what is going on with your VP44: http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/vp44diagnostichelp.html

Hey, just wanted to follow up on this post. Hoeslie Diesel called me back last week and they found me 2 fuel heater elements. If you think you may need one in the future, this might be a good opportunity to put up a few spares.

What is the latest? Is the engine still behaving as you described?

Is the engine still starting after a bit of an extended crank time? What is the fuel pressure the FASS is putting out?

Any progress?

Make any progress on finding the problem? :working:

Check the fuel heater seal on your fuel cannister. It may be slowly leaking air into the system just enough to loose prime when sitting for a long period.