Silverwolf2691

Check the alternator for having AC noise. Need a volt meter with AC volts capability. I don't remember the limit off hand but 0.08 sounds right..

Seems like the aluminum cracked, hairline fracture.. That wouldn't be enough to drop your boost that much though.. Intake horn is up to you. Marginal performance benefits going after market, but does look better in the engine compartment

The odds keep going up for us to get buried in snow tomorrow. Models are forecasting 18-24 inches with 40-45mph gusts where I am. There are other places like Providence, RI and Boston that are 24-36 inches. I know to some that's a yearly occurrence but for us the most we (I) have really seen forecasted was generally 20-24.. We don't see 24+ very often. Last times were 2015 and 2013. We are getting our yearly snow fall and then some in one storm..

The hazards working is the only thing that leads me away from a flasher.. dual flasher system i could see that, i think the 12 valve trucks were like that.. Put leds in the tail lights. I got the truck pretty much free from my brother but as i said its a bit of a basket case.

@Royal Squire, what were your symptoms?

Have a 99 ram 1500 that has been a slight basket case. Just got the truck and am getting it closer to road worthy. Right new i have an issue with my turn signals. When you use the turn signal stalk, there is nothing. No relay click, no rapid flash, nothing. Hazards work. Running lights work. High beams work. I have not yet checked fuses and relays. Its dark and 20 degrees out. So thats a possibly tomorrow thing.. Also checked functions after dark.. Running against a possible blizzard this Saturday as well but thats another story.. My thought is flasher but hazards are still working.. So does that mean multifunction switch?

I think he was miles per year leader for the site for a while so he had the mileage/time (sort of) to be able test and tune.

It would be a hot 500, but a 62/65/12 can get you there too. Up to you and what you want. Also, @dieselautopower is a regular on the site and he can guide you to the right setup.

Is your turbo a borg or an hx35? quick search on tater built says hx35 with a 63/67 set of wheels. Essentially all good for a stock appearing class. Probably have a 14 cm^2 housing. If you want some better spool drop to a 12cm^2 turbine housing but you would be turbine housing limited to 5-550hp if I had to guess. S362/68/14 spools around 1600 and flows within 1 pound per minute of the S363/68/14, which spools at 1800rpm.

CompD is the hardest site to get up to date info on. I'm not a member there but I dig through for sled pulling setups and turbo reviews and similar and most of the stuff I find is 2008-2013.. occasionally I find a 2018-2021 post. I think the other thing that hindered them was they pushed the forum onto Facebook and now there is much less traffic on the actual forum.. CF has sooo many members that its almost never gonna be not up to date, but a lot of them are the younger, coal roller type..

What are the rest of the turbo specs? Turbine size and housing size? The Quad might help with spool time a bit.. Don't expect miracles but might be able to pull it back 1-200 rpm..

Not as much of a worry on here as you would on say competition diesel (CompD) or Cummins Forum (CF). Our search function also works relatively well compared to other forums. Also sometimes its good to bring stuff back up because things change and sometimes there are new products that come out or new ideas that might help others.

Gonna need bigger injectors.. Unless you are sticking with a 64.5/68/(12 or 14) or something. You would probably be better off with 200-250hp injectors. But you are starting to get into like 1800-2000 rpm for spool up too. You would want to stay smaller for efficiency if you are trying to catch @Mopar1973Man for MPG's. You might get away with it though because of the 2WD...

Gotcha, just remember to ditch the smarty programming when you get the Quad. With the amount of adjustability that the Quad has, it doesn't mesh well with the smarty. BTW, fill out the signature a bit more, it can help us to know what truck you have and what you have done.

What's the intended use? And what is making it time for studs?

I'll chime in on this, with the following assumptions: -9k is trailer and load only I have one of these hills on a route close to my home, its 7% and about 1/4-1/2 mile per the odometer. It's also 40mph speed limit even though most are going 45-50. In all honesty, I don't think its good on anything to lug the motor like that for that long. It's easier on the vehicle to drop down to 3rd (auto) and let the engine spin. My truck I can get away with it because I have 4.10s and 285/70r17s. At 50mph in OD I'm spinning 18-1900 rpm. But towing I would probably back it down to 40 and drop down a gear. I think people forget that our Cummins is technically an industrial engine. One of its uses is/was stationary generators. Those engines once started go right to full throttle. Yeah, it sounds scary and its gonna be loud, but the engines are designed around it. Cummins engines can take sustained 1200°F egt's if I remember correctly. Might have to worry about melting stuff around the engine though.. Maintaining speed with the load is I think not likely either because of the TV(?) cable.. Full manual valve body might be able to do it but that's relearning the truck and usually a race only option.. I guess I should also ask why? Why do you want to maintain OD while climbing the grades? --- I reread everything, I think you did answer this... You are driving through more rolling hills than mountain grades.. Parallels the route I was talking about earlier. I don't know, might be worth dropping speed and just locking out OD from the get go.. This coming from a New Englander, you are going too slow if you are doing 75 in a 65 lol. "Larger" turbo might help, but you have to make the decision on how you want to drive. And the wastegate issue being fixed will probably also help.

Kind of why I prefer sport bumpers, god awful expensive though.. glad someone was there to get it out of the road for you.

More than just vp44, there are engine hard part differences. Also 6 speeds are HO only, except for a few early 2000 or 2001 trucks (a rarity to find)

Yes to installing them, but they would take the place of a tee fitting. They are omnidirectional straight through and have a return port on the bottom of the regulator. Just remember with multiple regulators that you will only have as much pressure as the lowest set regulator Also back pressure plays a big role in operation of regulators so tying into another return line might not be a good idea.. But if the pressures are low enough it might not make a difference.

PM sent!

This might muddy the water a bit but there is likely no cavitation going on inside the pump, unless the conditions @Tractorman mentioned are present. When a internally regulating/relieving pump is dead headed, it just gets sent back to the inlet of said pump. All that action on the fuel creates heat and it goes into the pump body and the fuel. Only way to remove the heat is to remove the dead head condition. Then flow through the pump will cool things down. Fire trucks have a pump to tank line for this reason. Imagine a pump capable of about 50-150+ gallons per minute at engine idle with only like 5-15 psi just sitting there churning the water inside the pump case (rough numbers). Its gonna get hot. Easily hot enough to boil the water inside the pump case. Now, if we open the pump to tank line to move water into the 250-3000 gallon tank as a heat sink, you push off the time to get hot immensely. Pumps and pump setups are a very deep and complicated subject. Turbochargers, superchargers, fuel pumps, oil pumps, water pumps, they all fall under this umbrella. Kinda like saying you have a degree in science.. Can you be more specific? Personally, on my truck, I run a GDP fuel boss with a custom fuel system, including a 2 micron filter and a f/w separator and a fuelab return style fuel pressure regulator. I personally feel that a return style fuel system is the better way of having the plumbing routed. It constantly moves fuel to keep things clean and keeps the flow moving through the pump to keep it cool. I'm not saying this as a be all end all, it's my opinion and nothing more.

If his wife's mom was the last family member of that property, or if things weren't set up with a will or anything, the estate is possibly/probably in the probate system. A coworker of mine went through the same thing, took months to clear everything in the probate system. There's a lot that happens, and has to happen, when both parents pass after the funeral. @Mopar1973Man I think you had to deal with some of that when your mom passed. Its hard dealing with the loss combined with any family history that might have been brought out. Then dealing with a court system that works about as fast as the dmv does in a normal year (at least in my state)..

Not versed in transmission swaps but you dont necessarily need the column. You could get like a ratchet shifter but you would need to make a mount for it.. Unless you want/need to keep it stock PCM and ECM are probably both going to need flashed at a minimum, and need the harness to go to the trans for sure.

Pc or mobile? If on pc, when you right click to paste there are 2 paste options (at least on windows). Use the one that has ctrl+shift+v next to it Mobile should paste as a link regardless

Put studs in the first time the head came off so thats taken care of.. Hope to get this head https://djprecisionmachine.com/product/vp44-stage-2-24v-cummins-performance-head/ But my money tree needs to sprout soon. But i need the turbo first..