Explosives87

I am going to try and be creative and see is I can make it work before I get a the harness extension from the retrofit source.

That is the issue that i am running into whether i go over, under or straight across i am coming up short. I wonder if maybe i have a harness that was build short.

Well nuts I am about 6 inch to short. Where has everyone mounted the controller for the harness?

Went to install my hid and found out that harness is coming up short to the driver side. Anyone run into this problem or has everyone had plenty of wire left over to wire from either side?

Mike where did you need up putting your ballast boxes I am looking for some ideas where to put them out of the way?

Ok thank you for the link. Did you go with the D2 or the H1?

Where did you source your housing?

I glad that you brought up the snow, I was going to ask what you thought of your projectors in snowy conditions?

The more I look at the Piaa lights I am leaning that way.

Mike what did you do to seal your other socket from in the factory harness?

Hey I just want to hear update on how the lights are holding up? Also what are peoples thoughts on a set of sport housings with the d2s and a set of led pod? like rigid or baja led 4x4 pods? I found a place out of Boise that would retrofit a set of led pods and d2s in a set of sports housing for me.

Looks good, how is the fit and finish compared to the stock housing? Also what is the power level of those 4500,5000,6000k?

Does going to a full leaf springs pack less the amount of weight that I can haul since I am getting rid of my overloads?

I thought about doing a shackle flip but I wasn't sure is how it would change the rake of the truck with my goose neck trailer. I don't want to travel down the road with my headlights point at the sky, I would like to keep the factory rake. I have seen a few truck with carlis springs but they say that it would add a 1 to 2 inch of lift to the rear. Do you think that if I got rid of the factory block would It cause more axle wrap?

I walk to my truck the other day and found that one of my rear leafs on the was missing a 4 inch piece out of it. I am looking for opinions on which way to go. Rock auto as new one anywhere from 150-250 a side, the local spring shop said that they would replace the broken spring and the same spring on the other side along with re curving them for 600. Or I could have local shop, deaver, or atlas spring build me a set that would get rid of the factory block which would cost me around 1200-1500. I would like to know as anyone run leaf that have got rid of the factory leafs and put in after market leafs. Along with when you replaced the leafs did you notice any difference in ride, how the truck handled or lost load capacity?

Me78569 did you end up getting the non grease able lowers from dennys drive shaft?

ME78569 did you ever cut your old spicer apart to see what failed on it. There is to many choices and I don't know which one to choice. I really wish that EMF would have build there rebuild able joints for are 2nd gens. Has anyone tried XRF joints yet?

I would be interested to see how you like the ac delco joint over the spicer.

I feel you pain mike I just rebuild my NV5600 and I just killed my VP monday after I filled up with diesel. I got 215k out of my NV5600 and I am guessing that its still the stock VP died at 235k. Good luck on the finding a replacement or on the rebuild. I would give south bend a call and see if there is dealer in the local area that they might know of that can rebuild it for you.

I found a place out of Montana that sells spicer joints. I am in the same boat about replacing my joint I was going to replace them with moog but have not heard good reports about them. I have had two different different tire shops tell me that my ball joints where bad but I can't seem to get any play out of them. Is there a way to tell if they are really as bad as the shop is telling me they are. My passenger tire is wearing to the outside I always thought that it was the track bar that was bad maybe I am miss lead and its a bad ball joint. http://www.quad4x4.com/DodgeDana60front2000-2002.html

I have thought about this all the time, I just rebuild my 6 speed in my truck and it cost my around 2500. Granted it was a small fortune but the way that I looked at it was it was cheaper than a truck payment that I would have been paid for 5 months at 500, plus my truck as just over 200k when it went out. So I almost made it to the moon before it went out. I think that's its a fine line if the truck starts to nickel and dime you then I would look at something else but if it's just things here or there then I would run what you have. I just can't believe how much trucks are going for these day, since it is hard to find a 5.9 3rd gen for a fair price, I have just thought of getting a 4th gen 6.7 and just paying a little more. I just hate the the mileage on the 6.7 can be hit or miss with different trucks and the biggest factor for me would be the ability to delete the truck and trying to find a tuner for a 6.7 that allows you delete the truck can be trying to find that doesn't cost a fortune. It seem like some of the older H&S tuner can cost a close to 1500, I spend half of that on my gauges and edge comp for my 01.

I would look into a ron davis radiator I know that they where in the process of making one when I spoke with them about a year so ago.

Do you have a source for the clear head light assembly or where you just going to get a set from ebay?

I think that I will have to look into the cost of going the route of the projector with the head lamp assembly too. I found these website that have all ready assembly in them that have the projectors in them but I am not sure if them run the same ones that you did the write up on Me78569. http://shop.retroshop.us/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=2G.RAM.RETRO http://www.protuninglab.com/94-01-dodge-ram-projector-headlights.html

Isn't that the truth What kind of range do you see out of the mod that you did?