ISX

Did it still die? That last link I did that I also copied a guys post on has a lot of info on this issue, and I have formed another conclusion that people are also rebuilding their trans. So the 2 things everyone seems to do that also have this issue is a better trans than stock and different injectors. I am wondering if the VP is finicky enough to complain about different injectors (which surely act differently than the stock injectors) and the load of a good trans. Maybe at idle it only has so much threshold before it gives up? Hmm the thing is that yours drops in idle before it dies, which is about the only clue I have ever seen on this issue. Everyone else's seems to act like you just turned the key off. I assume everyone uses better flowing injectors than stock and I wonder if they flow too much for the VP to handle at idle. Like, this is very extreme but kinda the effect of shooting out all of the fuel from the injection line then having a line full of air (or extremely low pressure fuel, same with inside the VP). It seems like yours is able to accomodate a little better than everyone elses. Of course I could be way off with this theory. HMMMMMMMM I just read on this one post #20 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1584-Problems-Stalling-when-shifting-to-drive-and-hard-starting-when-hot.-Ideas He said: Once the starter engaged and the truck started the fuel pump came on and The pressure went to 17 psi. I backed out of the garage put the truck in drive and it died (like always) put it into neutral and started it. The fuel pressure gauge started going crazy (first time it has ever done this) the needle jumped from 5 to 12 back and forth never going under 5 and never going over 12 after about 10 seconds of this without stabilizing of going to the normal 17, I shut the truck off. So now I reallllly wonder about he injectors having too much flow. I need to think about this more. I wish I knew about every single sensor inside the VP more. Ehhh now I am thinking his lift pump was just turning off. The line about what I posted said that his lift pump didn't turn on for 2 seconds like it always had before. But doesn't the VP tell the lift pump to turn on? Or am I wrong on that part?

Yeah this issue never makes sense when you read about what fixed them. I don't know about jlwelding, I thought his was just a lope too but I think it dies on him whenever it wants. This is Sasqch's thread. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1584-Problems-Stalling-when-shifting-to-drive-and-hard-starting-when-hot.-Ideas Another thread, new VP44 fixed it. http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/archive/engine-dies-put-into-gear-t162639.html The problem doesn't have a consistent fix at all. Same thing. http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/help-truck-dies-put-drive-reverse-t50719.html I'm starting to see a pattern with this issue and people playing with injectors.. Post #4 on that last link said: Things to check that might help: 1) Some trucks can develope a corrosion trouble between the connector tube and injector or the connector tube and the injection line. Check this. 2) Bill at DTT had one of my customers adjust something in the tranny that cured his trouble. 3) Check the banjos to the VP if your truck still has them. They have caused this trouble for one of my customers. 4) The cold weather reflash is valid for your truck and does fix some of the trucks affected, but not all. I think about half of them are fixed this way. 5) Disconnect the batteries for a few hours. 6) Get some Diesel from a different vendor. A Bully Dog customer had this trouble last year and after he changed brands the trouble went away. Its worth a quick try. Of the 6 customers that have reported this trouble....2 have lost their injection pump soon after, 2 were fixed by the reflash, 1 disconnected the batteries for a few hours and it fixed it, and 1 customer I built them larger injectors and traded them out. The set I received back went into another truck and the trouble was not there. This is leading me to believe that some injection pumps are just more sensitive than others of what injector they have in front of them. Its very hard to nail down exactly what is going on, but the electronic idle fueling curves are certainly at the top of the suspect list. Try those things and PM me or the dealer you got them from and we can get it handled.

This problem seems to be going around like a disease. Nobody seems to know exactly what cures it but when people change out injectors and clean sensors up and solder all the connections it seems to go away, then come back and haunt them for the rest of their life. I think JLWelding has been battling this issue for $4000 worth, the last thing on his list is a wiring harness, everything else has been changed many times, and I do mean everything but the engine block. I *think* it is an auto trans issue only. Need to confirm that. Sasqch had the exact same thing and he said changing fuels fixed it. He filled up in alaska and it always did it but he went on vacation to the 48 states and said it completely stopped. Figure that one out I don't think anyone really knows what actually fixed it on everyones trucks since most people change out a ton of things that just happen to fix it. Sasqch has had the issue come and go but it seems like it fixes it with every part he changes so it is almost impossible to pinpoint. First time was CKP sensor fixed it then injectors fixed it then different fuel fixed it. I do want to know if it is just an auto trans thing though. Hmm, it appears jlweldings is a manual. Well that narrows down a lot of things. Actually I'm not sure he has the same symptoms. But I know Sasqch did. This is like the Millennium Prize Problems :ahhh:Well heres a thought. It seems a lot like the tranny just drags the engine down or something. I think this has been disproven but has anyone tried doing it with the transfer case in neutral so that the trans will just freewheel? I'm gonna swap you truck for a week John

This pump used to be bio but I see they have converted to normal. I got some anyways and took 2 pics. The one with less in it is just what I got. The other is after I added about a pint of vege oil. I didn't see any sign of it not mixing, it was just like I dumped water into water. I will give it a few days and see if anything happens. I hope the red dye doesn't throw everything off.Dumped some water in it, went straight to the bottom.

I was talking to Mike about that and even he said the stuff separates from diesel. The oil and diesel will separate from each other a period of time. I would like to see this for myself as we have a B2 or 5, pump around here and I think I will fill a jar and let it sit and see what happens.

I don't know if it's age or the paint they used. I had one guy tell me about the spot in this next pic that they used some kind of crappy paint that did that. I am not sure what causes it. I have put very thick layers of wax on this spot and nothing changes. Those are the only two spots on mine that are bad, the roof and drivers side corner. Whats bad is my fords paint has held up better and it is in direct sunlight every day, thought it's white. Its just weird because the roof was flawless last year.

I don't know how all those sideways marks got on there, and none of those scratches were there after I drove under the branches. They were just little twigs. :shrug:Eh, can't see it there. Ok there is a close up. Basically the whole roof looks like that.

Most dashes look like they dropped a cinder block on them. Don't know how they do that much damage. I assume there is some abuse going on there lol. My paint on the roof was spotless last year, I looked at it this year and it looks like I did 60mph down a dirt road, rolled it, and skid for a mile. I know I drove under some tree branches but geeez. I will go get a pic, you won't believe it.

I don't know what is worse, the sun or the cold. Southern people get the heat and a lot of sun so that would soak in and make them brittle, but coldness does the same thing, though it doesn't do anything unless you touch the dash while it's still cold. My center console cracked a whole bunch last winter because I stuck my elbow into it at 0F. Wait your truck is in the garage Mike! Leave it out for all of it's life then touch the dash

Are the 2 connections the same ones as what I circled? If so then that doesn't have anything to do with your fuel. I assume you didn't see any fuel leaks around it or anything either. That hose is actually for emissions in a way. It goes to the intake manifold and as the turbo builds boost, that hose runs to the top of the pump and as you build boost the is allowed to fuel more. So that line is nothing more than a pressurized air hose. You will probably have more power now that you tightened it :lol:Check all your return lines, fuel filter, etc. making sure everything is tight.

I thought taking the engine out was easier If you go slow and make damn sure you know where every screw goes, it really isn't that bad. I am not sure about taking just the top part off, that might be even easier.

Do you have any more info on this air control vent line? I can't find anything on it on google. It sounds like it might be something for the AFC but I am not sure. Just a pic of where the line is on the pump would work but a physical description of where the line is will work as well. I am kind of doubting that fixed it based on what it sounds like that hose does, but I guess we will see.

Really? I thought you used them religiously Ahh, just saying that made my night.

There I deleted mine so they wouldn't see how slow you are.

I put monroe's on mine a while back. Work fine so far.

As far as I know there isn't one. You turn the key off and it turns the lift pump off and the VP44 computer stops doing anything.

I'm just having a hard time understanding why you are so worried about all your batteries suddenly going dead out in the wilderness. All you have to do is load test the batteries before you head out and you know they are still good. You can also just get a multimeter and see what your battery voltage is when the truck has sat a long time (overnight) to get rid of surface voltage. They should be around 12.65V. Mine are always at 12.65 in the morning, I check it with a multimeter religiously to see how they are doing. You know they are getting old when you start seeing lower voltage. More expensive batteries do not mean you can skip out on testing them, you should always monitor them. If I am not mistaken, all you have to do to get an accurate reading is press a button on the scangauge. Paying more money will not keep you from being stranded, monitoring them will. If you are still worried, cold batteries do not have as much power, which is why you have that CCA rating. So you might get those battery insulators so you can keep the CA up.

You do realize you are relying on TWO batteries to give you 5 seconds max of cranking. Add in the grid heater and it's a little more but the point is, powersmokes and durapads crank forever with cheapo batteries and they still hold up. I can understand why you want more expensive ones, what I am saying is if the batteries are not over 5 years old, they are not even breaking a sweat with our trucks. As long as you never discharge them wayyy down, I don't see why any battery wouldn't last 5 years. The everstart maxx I have was in the hands of my brother before who drained it a few times, it will start my cummins by itself today and it is 6 years old.

I just leave it in 5th and let off, by the time I am at the driveway it is almost at idle RPM and the EGT is down to 400, then I don't have to keep letting the engine rev way up when you downshift. It takes a longer distance but it sounds a lot nicer lol. I never wait for it unless I pull a trailer or have been running it hard. I look down and as long as it's under 400 I turn it off. Mine takes forever to get under 400 so I don't even bother. I run amsoil so I guess there isn't as much of an issue since the oil supposedly doesn't "coke". Nevertheless, I've never had an issue.

I did some searching and it got me to a post on CF by Prowelder (member here too) and he had the bearings for it and said he got them from BRC Bearings.

If the previous owner left it in the sun then it was only a matter of time. They get so brittle that just wiping it off probably cracked it. Mine cracked a tiny bit when I took the dash out but I am a little better off since it is brown rather than black, so the sun doesn't soak into it as much. Best thing to do is fix it then get some kind of dash mat, or put up a sunshade if it is ever in the sun.

I got to thinking about it a little more and that field coil is probably burned up, it was on the f150 too. So you might end up having to get a whole new clutch assembly. You really just need to take it all off and look at it, thats the only way to really know what the issue is. As for those bearings, do you have any measurements on them? If not I will measure mine tomorrow, already got it half torn apart.

I'm not much of an A/C guy so they probably know better on that part. I just know the bearings are standard cheapos you can get anywhere. You just press them out and press in a new one. --- Update to the previous post... You should probably make sure it is the bearing first.

I think my dad used a die hard gold in his truck for at least 10 years. So that shows that gold is good so platinums are probably very good too. The only battery that had the guts to start my ford in the winter was the everstart maxx's, never tried die hards but the ford had no problem killing optima dry cells. The maxx would crank and crank and crank.

I wonder if it has to do with the auto trans. My ford wouldn't do anything in the mornings until the trans got warm enough. You might set the parking brake and put it in neutral and it should warm the trans up faster. But it sounds like it is toast if it is 70F and won't do anything. Does it just kinda free rev when it is in drive?