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Here you go AH64ID. So there are many variables of fuels that make them unique. The way they are measured that determines their quality is also different. For instance, diesel uses cetane and gasoline uses octane. The way cetane works and the way octane works are very different. The way gasoline ignites and the way diesel ignites is also very different. How the fuel acts and burns determines the kind of engine they are used in. There is a reason diesel/biodiesel/oils are used in a compression engine and why propane/gasoline are used in spark ignition engines. This thread will be meant to explain the differences and how the different ratings of fuels work, why they work, and the engine characteristics of the fuel. I will get a bunch of info on this but let me get some other neat posts up first I'll edit this in a while but don't let that stop anyone from adding something!

Yeah your getting way to complex for what I am trying to show lol. I know gas and oil are different and have all the different properties. This is solely for people to get a better understanding of cetane. So although gas and oil are different, they show the principles of cetane very well (if you don't think into it too much ). You are very right though. Gas doesn't have cetane and everything is based on something completely different. Oil also is based on things different from regular diesel. I mean it's not really meant for burning like say, 2 stroke is. The fumes from the exhaust were horrid with that motor oil in it. Smelled like gas and diesel fumes mixed together lol. I am going to try and organize all of this and put it together in another discussion since you are getting more advanced than I wanted this thread to be lol. I do like all of your info and want to hear more, so let me get a different thread going that better emphasizes the stuff you are testing out.

The only thing I see it doing is making it start better. I can get B20 here and I ran it a few times in the winter and it started a lot faster. But I also didn't get as good of mileage. Higher cetane stuff just burns up too quickly. Look at a gallon of oil and a gallon of gasoline. Light them both up and the gas burns up quick and the oil will burn for hours. I think higher cetane fuel is done burning before the engine has completed the power stroke whereas lower cetane will burn throughout the power stroke. Get too low and it won't burn up all the way, so there is a limit.

I saw that you tested B2. I would like to see what B20 or even B100 runs. Also see what straight kerosene runs at. Thanks for doing all of those test!

35's are pretty good sized. The key to good mileage is just going slow. I think you can still get some good numbers if you keep it at 55. Probably be more in the 23mpg range though, I get around 27 doing 55 with my tiny tires.

Get the Airdog 150 so you have more flow. Get the Edge Juice. Mike got a stock pump and it has been living for 120k miles now. Run 2 stroke in yours and it should last just as long. He also is running somewhere around 380HP/830TQ which is plenty. If you get too much power you will find yourself constantly buying upgrades such as bigger turbos and everything. I think you can set limits on chips so it will stop fueling if certain things are met, this will help keep everything in check.

I run higher pressures than you..

You mean this wire? I don't have a clue why mine hasn't split in two.

It's a pita figuring out where each line goes whenever they all go under the intake manifold. Figured this has to help someone. I read about guys questioning where the lines go all the time. Never heard anyone talk about a big line kit for a 12v. I don't hear of many issues other than the seal on the fuel tank I replaced and then fuel filter and fuel heater issues.

Better not be! I just found a tripod laying around here so I can actually make a ton of videos that I have been forced to skip because I couldn't mount it anywhere. I have been sticking a bolt in the bottom support hole of the camera and vise gripping it to everything. If only you guys knew how I mounted it in the engine bay for that video

I was trying to make it as extreme as possible. I doubt it would have done much otherwise. It might not be the best example but it does get the point across as to what cetane and timing do. I know there are 100 other variables but I was just trying to hit the main ones. Something interesting though, 2 stroke actually raises my idle. This was when it was at 16* timing. Makes me think the 2 stroke was perfect at that timing but diesel was a little inefficient. Of course that is only at idle speed. I put my timing back to the stock 13.5* the other day so I am not sure if the motor oil would have been any better if it was at 16*.

I put this together today since it is probably the main problem 12v's face. Air leaks can be hard to chase, especially with solid lines that you can't replace with clear rubber lines. You can but you have to buy fittings. All of the fuel from the lift pump to the injection pump should be at a pressure of ~26psi, so you can easily use clear hose in places to track air intrusions if you have all the right fittings. Hoses can get hard, get cut, and crack which is the main purpose of using as much steel line as possible on the fuel system. Any fittings with copper washers may not be seating correctly and need new washers. Some of the main things you want to check first are: [*]Bleed screw on top of filter [*]Fuel filter gasket and proper installation [*]Fuel Heater gasket and housing (cracked) [*]Hose clamps If you have recently done something such as removing the return lines or taking off injection lines, you should double check all of those and make sure the washers on the return lines are in good shape. When you have all the air out and are just trying to bleed it, you may also have to loosen an injector line. When you see fuel coming out, tighten it back down. If it is too tight when you are doing this, it will build very high pressures and spray all over the place, so loosen them maybe 1 revolution from being tight. Then you can crank the engine over while holding down on the pedal about 1/4 throttle and it will start up and try not to let it go over 1500RPM when it starts as this is not the greatest on an engine that has no oil pressure for the time being. Once it does start, keep it around 1200-1500 to keep it running and purge the remaining air out of the system. When it smooths out, it should idle smooth and your good to go. Check all your fittings to make sure they are not leaking fuel. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=u1C8e5Q1l2E

Maybe some of you have read this page http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/cetane/cetane.htm well I am going to prove it. Words don't always get the idea across and I want you all to see what happens when you vary the cetane. First off, cetane is the ignition quality of fuel and by that I mean it determines how long it takes the fuel to ignite when heated to it's autoignition point. The bigger the number, the shorter it takes to blow up. We can show this with math and crap, OR, we can show this with some extreme fuel choices. I think you all know motor oil does not ignite very well. On the other hand, power service will ignite quickly. Motor oil has a very low cetane, power service has a very high cetane. Now here is how the engine works with cetane. The piston comes up and has so much compression that it heats the air to a very high temperature, higher than the autoignition temperature of fuel (~450F). A little before top dead center, fuel is injected into the combustion chamber. This fuel absorbs the heat that is in the very hot air, and ignites. Cetane comes into play when the fuel ignites as I stated previously. So why is this so critical? Well the engine only has a limited amount of time to get the fuel to ignite. When they say the timing is 14 degrees before top dead center, they mean the fuel is injected 14 degrees crankshaft rotation before TDC. Obviously it would be a disadvantage for the fuel to ignite before TDC since it would be trying to push a piston down that is still trying to come up. RPM play a key role in this. The faster an engine is turning, the less time BTDC the engine has to get the fuel to ignite. This is why truck pullers advance their timing to degrees over 20, because they are revving so high that they need more time to get the fuel to burn, so they inject it in sooner. If your engine turns slower, say 1000RPM, your most efficient timing might be somewhere in the single digit degree range, because it has a lot of time before it gets to TDC. As the engine RPM goes up, timing needs to advance so that the engine will be injecting fuel at the perfect time, not too soon and not too late. The knocking is actually a sign that it is injecting too soon because it is igniting before TDC. When I advanced my timing, it would knock at idle, when I retarded it back to stock, it was back to being quiet. The p7100 trucks have static timing, so mine is always the same. I just showed how timing needs to change so p7100 trucks must be set for the best setting for most drivers. Retarded enough to start good, yet advanced enough to be efficient at cruising RPM. Now that you know about timing and cetane, I can explain why you see what you see in the video. My truck idles with the needle just scratching the line under 1000, on diesel fuel. So with cetane at 40 or whatever the summer fuel I get is, it ignites and provides the power for that rpm. When I changed over to the motor oil, my RPM dropped a lot. Motor oil contains the same amount of energy as diesel, if not more, so it would make sense that my rpm would go up, but that obviously doesn't happen. So what gives! Damn oil is worthless! No, the truth is that the oil has a very low cetane compared to diesel. So the delay is very long. So long that the oil ignites after the engine has reached and gone past TDC. The oil is only exploding on part of the power stroke because it took so long to ignite. In theory, if we advanced the timing a lot, we could get the RPM's back up. Now lets say you are running vegetable oil. Now your cetane is very high. It will knock more because it is igniting very soon. In this case it would be beneficial to retard timing. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=fAmgB2sJlPg

I think it's more just a way to keep people from dumping bad things into their tanks. We know there is nothing wrong with 2 stroke in there but the government has never tested it to prove it. Regular additives are sent off and tested and the government says ok, you can run this. There are a lot of people dumping anything but water into their tanks that does do a lot of bad with smog and everything. I used to dump waste motor oil in my ford and it would smog the road up the entire time I drove it. Now lets say everyone did that, now what would the air be like? Now you see why all these additives are filled with acetone or something that ignites and has no chance of burning incompletely. 2 stroke probably has a little bit of emissions I would imagine, I mean look at my dirt bike.. all 2 strokes smoke a little bit, so I doubt the gov. would ever make it legal for millions of people to dump in their trucks.

Alright you made me add the underhood one lol. Turn your speakers down You can hear that it goes out of the mic's range.

Took the last 2 out that I have never cleaned and did my test of cleaning it longitudinally. Just as I thought, it won't scratch it. Whatever they use as an abrasive is only hard enough to get the carbon off. The picture shows the result of what I did in the video, in case you can't see it. It cleans a lot better if you twist is on the nozzle but I had to test the scratch theory.

The bearings are the only thing that really goes out on the whole compressor so you can take it apart and buy a new bearing for $5. I learned that after paying $120 for a new clutch assembly on a guys f150.

That one is when he was doing 100 down a dirt road I am going to make a screensaver of your pics now. They are too good to only look at once lol. I bet you had a lot of fun, looks like you had some good storms come through. Crazy how you can see the entire storm and the plateau and all that all at one time

Took the air filter off and wanted to see how loud it was to onlookers. I had it under the hood at first but at anything over about 20psi the camera's mic wouldn't pick it up. Yes, it is just as loud while in the cab. Now you see why going from the stock air box to a more open air filter like the BHAF makes the turbo louder.

I know you ran a test when your LP was dieing and said it would hardly fill a bucket. How much was it supposed to fill in how much time? I would like to see how much flow it has idling at <14psi, when the overflow supposedly shuts.

It actually says "not recommended on painted metals, chrome, if it doesn't have black residue it is not polishable!" They would make a ton of money if they would erase that. I've been running around doing little spots on everything and can't see anything negative about it. My dad even has road oil all over his truck that he couldn't get off with diesel fuel or break cleaner, but that stuff take it off after a minute. I want to take another injector out but clean the tip longitudinally. The lateral marks I am pretty sure are from the process to make the nozzle, but I want to make sure and show how it won't scratch it.

That hole for the ladder under the parts holder is really slick! I always see people strap them to the roof or just throw it in the back and slam the door really fast. That has to be the best setup ever. No hassle of a trailer in tight spots or places with a lot of traffic and all the parts in the world. Incredibly nice work!

One thing I learned from rewiring mine, you see how you all have a million wires under the terminals and you gotta hook them up individually? Well the way I fixed that was just got a terminal (http://www.asklug.com/terminal-lugs-2.html) and then you fill it with solder, make sure it's all still molten and stick alllll those wires in there. Now you have just one terminal to hook up. Use a kinda big terminal and when you want to add/remove wires, just heat it back up. Now you dont have the mess Mike has lol. I bet VW is out smoking up the streets right now "Yep, it works!" lol

I've been messing around with this stuff http://www.mothers.com/02_products/05100-05101.html and after seeing countless exceptional results, I took out one of the 3 injectors I have never cleaned and tried it. That stuff takes the carbon off after a minute of rubbing but the abrasive in it is so fine, I think it hardly touches the injector nozzle. I messed with it for 5 min and couldn't get it to even scratch the nozzle. So I think it is the absolute best stuff to use to clean the injectors. Just make sure to use some brake cleaner on it to get it all the polishing compound out.

I was using aluminum/mag cleaner today and got to wondering if I could use it for something like that. It turns black when used on aluminum so I think it has a little abrasiveness to it. Was also wondering if it would polish up injectors. I didn't take a pic of his bumper but the end result was the same as the wheels and the bumper had rust spots all over it that I couldn't get off, but the mag cleaner took it off after a while.