ISX

I wanted to show them all taken off and what was under them lol. Only way I could think of doing it. Maybe bungee cords next time

So I ripped mine apart for you. All you need is a small rod (1/8"), a hammer, and vise grips. I am not sure you can take it apart like Koyote describes without taking it out from the truck first. Would be tricky. The J-Hook bolts are 1/2". Anyways, to remove the top part from the bottom part you start by undoing the cloth so you can get to that second (upper) bolt, otherwise it is too tight to pull the cloth up and expose the bolt. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Interior/Center%20Console/IMG_1517.JPG Now you can get to that second bolt. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Interior/Center%20Console/IMG_1518.JPG Put the top part in armrest position (down) and hold the part people sit on down while pulling the J hooks brace things back and up, it will take some good pulling.. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Interior/Center%20Console/IMG_1519.JPG Now to get the lid only off, bit tricky. I saw no way to do it so reverted to the laws of physics. What won't come off, can be pryed off. So the black trim underneath the lid needs to come off, the trick is to pry it and twist it out from the inside out. As I am demonstrating in the pic. Otherwise, you will break the tiny pins off, as I did to some of them. You can see how they have a little hook on them, that is why you try and twist it so it pulls the hook part back. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Interior/Center%20Console/IMG_1532.JPG http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Interior/Center%20Console/IMG_1525.JPG So then you end up with this. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Interior/Center%20Console/IMG_1521.JPG The final thing is to take the lid off, which if you look you see the hinge is all that is left. It is not a snap on or anything, a rod is driven into it all, so you must take the punch and hit the rod out, then take vise grips once you get an inch exposed and pull it all the way out. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Interior/Center%20Console/IMG_1526.JPG The spring was a pain since I didn't know it had a hook on it, so maybe seeing it will make it easier on you. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Interior/Center%20Console/IMG_1527.JPG Voila!

I had someone ask me to make a simplified version of Mike's high idle switches schematic. I know they can be a little confusing for those who don't do much electrical so I tried to make it as easy as possible. This first picture shows how the switch works. It is very important to understand this first, by understanding it, you will know how all the rest has to work. All of the drawings of the switches are always in the same direction, so they all directly relate to the top of the picture. This switch works by having 2 central contacts that close with the top or bottom contact. Sorry about drawing it on paper, I know it's kinda cheap but paint wasn't giving me enough room Here is his writeup to see the exact switches and everything he used, and more info. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/high-idle/high-idle.htm This is the switch and ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) fooler wiring. This is for the other 2 switches that run the high idle and 3 cyl idle.

Yeah you can take the wastegate hose off and put something in it to plug it, then it will never open the wastegate, though disabling the wastegate is highly unrecommended. If the turbo builds over 35psi, it loses efficiency and longevity. The stock turbos are not meant for over 35. A better route is a boost elbow. If you google "cummins boost elbow" you will see what I am talking about. These allow you to adjust your max boost so it doesn't end up flying over 35psi.If you were ever to get into 45+psi range on a stock truck, the head gasket would be under so much pressure that it wouldn't be able to hold. It would eventually give way and mix your coolant and oil and give you a wonderful mess to clean up.

Lucky! Think all we get here is another letter on the license type. I don't know about concealed, I would rather just have a 30/30 in the back window Did this 2 weeks ago, filled a cup with water. I never can get anything to blow up like that, not the 300 ultra mag, 270, nothing, but the 30/30 will do it http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=BcB-SPG3NnI

Alright guys, got the writeup done and up on the static pages. I'd like to find out a way to do it on the 24V's but I need a 24V first So don't hold your breath for a 24V writeup, but maybe someday I will get my hands on one. Grid Heater Info (updated for more info) http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/grid-heater/grid-heater.htm Switched Grid Heater Info http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/grid-heater/switched-grid-heater.htm

I had no clue either. A pile of wood is a pile of wood Just go by truckloads lol.

I can't see any trace of a crack anywhere. Definitely a good job on the repair! Truck is in excellent shape too

But how does it detect it.. If you pulled it right now (when it is to hot for it to even try and turn the grids on) does it throw the code?

A 3rd gen! Can't help you at all there though Worst comes to worst you could put in another relay on the leads going to the grids, but it would have to be pretty beefy and the whole speil would end up costing a shiny new shield faced penny. --- Update to the previous post... I have never seen such a crappy writeup (first post on this thread). I just got to thinking and if I had tied the grounds together and switched them instead, the grids would still work individually with the switch on since it's the positive that does the energizing. Might have to redo it on my truck. Man I feel like an idiot! I will get it right one of these days. I do have a question for you 2nd gen 24V guys who can clear codes easily lol, does it throw a code if you take only the positive (orange or yellow) wire off one of the grid relays? Does it throw a code if you take only the negative (green) wire off one of them? I'm trying to understand how it even knows to throw a code.

Yeah there is like 5 threads about it now :lmao:Anyways, I did it because the truck will run the grids if you turn it off, run into the store, run back out and start it. The grids draw 95 to 190Amps which is quite a load on your alternator and batteries. So I threw the switch in there to keep it from turning on when I know the engine is already hot. 24V's will throw a code if you switch the grid relays so all you can do is take the leads going to the grid heater off. I will make a big article for this right now for the static pages I can link everyone to. Think we got a lot of information drug out between 5 threads.

Yeah that gets back to it all being a tradeoff. We emit pollution through the exhaust or through old batteries. I guess what we need is just more diversity, instead of 99.9% relying on gas/diesel vehicles. If everyone in the world drove a 2nd gen 24V, there would be enough mechanics to fix them in no time. So 100 mechanics for 100 people...that doesn't support the mechanics at all, they wouldn't make anything. So we have diversity, 5 mechanics work on the 24V, 5 work on the 12V, 5 work on audis.... and the world works well with this. In the fuels scenario, we need more outlets/producers of fuel because we have so many people wanting fuel. So the fuel producers are overburdened, so they say ok, supply/demand. Everyone raises their prices. The key is diversity. We can drill another million oil wells and bring the price down to $0.50 a gallon but then the cost will just be seen in producing the million wells and prices will be right back to $3/gal. The more wells we need, the more it costs to get that oil because that oil is harder to get. We have reverted to deep sea oil drilling and that costs a ton more than just pumping it out of a Kansas pasture. It becomes exponential, costing more and more for less and less oil. So I believe we need to diverge into different sources of energy but more importantly, ways to store it. If there was a way to store energy for long periods of time, that would solve almost all problems. Power plants have to fire up diesel generators at 3pm because they don't have enough capacity to run everything solely off their turbines, however, at nighttime, power plants hardly move. If they were able to run just 50% continuously (and therefore have a place to store the power) they could charge at night and expel during the day, without the need for running the overload generators. I formed this theory as I typed so it might not be right at all

As part of being a generator tech I had to take diesel classes. Well the book for class I have talks about the PE7100 more than anything, even most of the google searches on it just reference it in the book. I might have to take pics of all of it and put it on here. There are about 8 pages all about it with pictures and everything. Seems it was in the Mach trucks and that's all. I am going to do all I can to find more info, I would love to have a truck that starts in the winter and is able to advance timing as it warms up. They called the timing advance mechanism an "Econovance" in the book. The whole PE7100 seems to run off the ECM a little more than I want it to, but I really want to try it out. --- Update to the previous post... Mannn, they have been using that system since 1990! So I should be able to find those things cheap! Just google econovance and all the results pertain to it.

So you have to use more of it since it gets less mileage, and you pollute 400% more, incredible. Seems to always be a tradeoff. The way I see it, all fuel should be B2 to give everyone all their lube back. Only problem with that is I think it reduces BTU a little bit even at 2%.I think everyone who drives only 20 miles a day should be driving electric cars. Of course those of us who need trucks have an exception but there are millions of people driving 20 miles a day max, who don't need the range of a gas vehicle. Electric cars will start instantly in any weather, will get better traction in winter due to more controllable, smoother roll on of power, and they are charged from things that have an efficiency more than twice what our diesels get (from powerplant turbines). So if you trace everything back, they are running around in incredibly efficient vehicles that cost them a lot less to do that 20 miles. You have no oil to change or any of that other crap either. I think it would save billions in the economy. Then the people who do have to drive long distances would have $1/gal prices because of the extreme surplus of fuel. I think all the money they used on the cash for clunkers and other ways of boosting the economy could have funded research for doing this and would have ended up paying everyone back huge in the long run. But I don't watch the news or anything so I can't say I am right lol.

Maybe the grid heaters pull the voltage down to where the ECM shuts down. You wait a little bit and some voltage builds back up and allows it to turn back on Get a voltmeter and see what the voltage is when the grids pull it down and when the truck won't start. You might have a bad connection to the computer or batteries. Check the grounds to them too.

It's always quite a leap going from a gasser to a diesel, especially when you have never owned or riden in a diesel before. The intercooler and second battery are things gassers don't have, so you don't expect them. Same as the WTS light, WIF light, injection pump, glow plugs/grid heaters. You just have to be open for anything. I am sure there are powerstroke and duramax drivers who have owned them for 5 years and then decide to buy a cummins thinking they know everything about, then spending a week looking for the glow plugs You just never know anymore. I doubt a die hard 12V mechanic would be able to work on a 24V CR very easily, if at all, he has never seen any of that and wouldn't know what to do without reading up on it. It's when you can't tell a diesel from a gasser by how it sounds at idle that you know you really need to do some reading

Great find Elshadow001! I'm sure it will help someone. I heard something about stevia being good as well. Sorry about getting diabetes. Seems there are so many diseases these days it's hard to evade them all.

Just found this pdf which is very very detailed. http://transportation.centennialcollege.ca/oduffy/fuels/HD%20fuels%203/inline.pdf An interesting part is towards the bottom they talk about a PE7100. This is a P7100 that is computer controlled with dynamic timing. I can hardly find any info on this so it must have only been used on one application. I guess they used it on VMAC-I engines--Mack trucks.

Ok I called them and I told them your whole scenario and they just said hmmm that shouldn't happen. I don't know if it somehow tracked a past payment history with that 3 year old account or not. They said unless you go over $2000 it shouldn't care whether you are verified or not, which makes me think it tracked that old account, possibly. I said well it's canada and they acted like that may be it. Other than that, they said you would have to call and give them your info so they could look it up and tell you why you need to be verified. They said you need either a bank account or paypal credit card to get verified. So there you have it.

I wonder if that camshaft position sensor would do something like that. --- Update to the previous post... Nevermind, guess your tach wouldn't be working if that were the case.

He took that pic at the dealership and cropped in the goodies. If he took a pic of it now it would be trashed. Steering wheel is all cut up, gauges are smashed, shifter is bent, dash is cracked, radio is stolen, ashtry is filled with cigars, carpet is torn up and there is a rust spot in the floor where he watches the road, windows are now manual roll up with vise grips, cruise control is a brick, headlights are a standard house switch, overhead is a 100w house fixture light, there are extension cords running from his inverter to the brake lights which he has to manually run, the mirrors are smashed...other than that, its pretty girly

Well the only thing is I don't know if HSD is fine in a VP44. I don't see any reason it wouldn't be, but I am not sure. Not sure enough to tell you it's 100% fine Hmm, oklahoma.. I might just have to run down and get some --- Update to the previous post... You get the Idaho view and don't have to worry about tornadoes so it evens out

I stared at all the pics over and over and here is what I can figure out. Pillar gauges--Make pillar even more hard to see around, but provide easy means of looking at your gauges Overhead gauges--Great looks and all, but I was looking at my overhead temp to see how hard it was to read from a regular position, and it would be difficult to quickly read the gauge while staying between the lines. Floor mount gauges--This is what I have, probably the hardest to see and keep the truck straight Dash gauges--There is absolutely no downfall to this that I see, other than having gauges there that might be a little unsightly. They can be seen while keeping an eye on the road with ease. So there is only one thing to do, heads up LED thing shining on windshield

Thats the good stuff!! Though since it's red you can't legally run it, the fines are insane. Since you said Hmmm I imagine you want to know more. Sulphur used to be used to lube the fuel in a way, but also helped seal up fuel sytems since it is a mineral. It also created emissions issues. So they have been filtering it all out, getting to the new Ultra Low Sulphur Diesel (ULSD) which burns very clean but they filter it so much it actually takes some of the energy content out. That is why I said the stuff you saw at the station labeled 500ppm is the good stuff. That actually sounds like high sulphur diesel, which is about the best there is, for older trucks anyways, the 2004+ trucks would hate it, it has too much sulphur. ULSD is only 15ppm, max. Low Sulphur Diesel (LSD, not the drug ) is 500ppm or less. You said may contain more than 500ppm so that has got to be High Sulphur Diesel (HSD), which is basically unheard of right now so it's amazing you still have it, though it could also be a mislabeled pump and actually have LSD or ULSD in it. Engines able to run on HSD can run on LSD or ULSD, but ULSD engines will not run on anything with a higher sulphur content. What state is this in anyways?

Should be a a little higher on pressures. Though there is a new question about where the fuel is going when the pressure is under 14psi. For the time being, I would aim for higher pressures.If you ever have something your not sure about, let me know and I will dig you up some pics and label everything in it. Or take a pic and I will label everything in that for you.